strawberry plants still green...?

vieja_gw(z7NM)January 1, 2012

It has been years since I grew strawberries back in Iowa & Wisconsin but I seem to remember that the plants turned brown/?died during the winters. Here in New Mexico my 2 year old patch looks as green & alive as in summer and we have had temps. of 9 degrees & mostly freezing nights here this winter (some 40's days though)... which is COLD for us here at 5200 ft. zone 7. I assume these strawberry plants will now survive & produce again this summer? I have not covered the plants with leaves in winter here either. They produced so well last summer & now have spread so that I have strawberry plants running & growing all over! When should the old plants begin to produce less & when do I need to replant? Should I keep the runners & replant them as a fresh bed? Forgot all about how to grow strawberries I'm afraid after all these years!

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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

I would keep the runners and plant a new bed if you need more strawberries. I would cut your old berries back to just above the crown. Make sure your crowns are high and dry or they may rot if kept too wet. Al

    Bookmark   January 2, 2012 at 9:09AM
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Thanks!So I need to clip these still really green plants back to above the crown come spring? Or leave these green plants alone to develop flowers, etc.?

I wasn't sure -nor could remember- if a strawberry plant would get too old over a few seasons & not produce berries any longer or if new plants (?runners) should be planted to replace them. I do remember when we had a huge garden & planted the strawberry plants in long rows that we would let the runners root in the vacant space beside the rows of parent plants & then the next year the runners would produce in the new rows & we would ? remove the rows of the old plants. Yes, I will have to remove those runners that are invading other flower, vegetable beds to try & keep the strawberry bed in bounds! Now have limited garden space so a bed is more efficient than rows that take up more space.

    Bookmark   January 2, 2012 at 11:50AM
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armyofda12mnkeys(7a, Philly, PA)

I think I read (at least for Musk/Alpine strawberries but applies to other strawberries) to hold the stems and cut just above the top of crown when the weather is cold and the leaves have turned a bit red (the crown is left to re-sprout next year).
I'm in Philadelphia and surprisingly they are pretty green still (unusual warm weather?), so I might wait a few weeks to cut them since a big cold spell is coming tomorrow.
Prob throw away the part you cut off as it might rot the plant if left there as a 'mulch' (or throw in compost bin if have one). Regular mulch is not good and think its too warm for strawberries hence why it'll rot/kill it. You want to use straw or pine needles i read supposedly as a winter mulch so the crown isn't hoisted out of the soil and dried up (from cold weather/water compressing/expanding the soil). and remove straw later on in early spring (you may use pine needles as a spring mulch since strawberies don't mind it acid soil i think, but not sure).
My Musk strawberries are super runner-y, even more than my regular Tri-Star strawberries. They didn't really produce fruit this year, next year since plants are more established I read they will produce... but I would assume you are right and they will need to replaced after a few seasons so you can let some runners go. The guy I bought them from puts all his runner strawberries in those plastic 'kiddie pools'... so he can easily identify that variety when it goes over the edge, and cut them off to sell (and so it doesn't take over lawn i assume). I had 3 Musk runner varieties (since Musk's need cross-pollination or Male plants) and now they are all mish-mashed together in my Musk strawberry bed hehe, but I'd rather not keep kiddie pools in my parents yard to organize them all :) ).

My alpines strawberries produce no runners, so every few years i read as they get bigger, you 'divide' them to get more plants.

    Bookmark   January 2, 2012 at 2:51PM
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So.. ? not leave the green plant to flower/fruit but instead cut the green top off come spring so the plant regrows from the base again? My varieties are Ozark Beauty & Sequoia.. one everbearing & one spring bearing but both have spread nto each other so have no idea which is which now! They sure produced some great tasting berries for a long time though but 'fragile'... they had to be eaten the same day when picked-unlike the firm store-bought tasteles strawberries!

    Bookmark   January 2, 2012 at 4:17PM
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armyofda12mnkeys(7a, Philly, PA)

I think the leaves will turn red, then you cut the leaves off...
I am not sure at all on everbearing and spring-(June?)bearing...
Here is some more info on general strawberry care and patterns to plant them in:

    Bookmark   January 2, 2012 at 6:10PM
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armyofda12mnkeys(7a, Philly, PA)

hmmm i saw one link that said some have fruit buds for next year so dont cut those off... I guess day-nuetral/Junebearing are different than mine.
Maybe someone else can confirm?

    Bookmark   January 2, 2012 at 6:20PM
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armyofda12mnkeys(7a, Philly, PA)

btw the thing i read about cutting the stawberries 'above the crown' actually is for renovating the plant for next year and done between summer and fall and maybe only for alpine strawberries (and it was higher up than the crown):

Did you figure out how to take care of your type of strawberries from links i posted?

    Bookmark   January 4, 2012 at 6:07PM
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I have a question,why my 2 years old strawberries Sweet Charlie do not produce any runners? I am in piedmont area in South Carolina.I had a Ok harvest in May-June.Can somebody help me

    Bookmark   July 16, 2013 at 10:15PM
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