Papercrete recipe/technique

jamaicapegJanuary 10, 2010

Happy New Year, may it be a good one for all. I have been asked to share my papercrete recipe/technique. So, after a summer of experimentation, this is what works best for me.

Paper pulp:

Tear paper into about 2" square pieces. I use a combination of bond and newspaper, whatever I have on hand. In a large pail with a sealing lid, I completely cover the paper with hot to boiling water and let sit for 2 to 3 days, stirring it whenever you think about it. Boil for about ten minutes and then use a drill with a paint mixer attachment to bring the pulp to the consistency of fine oatmeal. (Great tip about sharpening the drill, thank you lava nsÂ). Place several handfuls into a dish towel and squeeze out most of the moisture. The pulp is ready to use, or can be stored in the fridge for a week or more without any problems.

Papercrete recipe (by volume):

1 pt sand

2 pt cement

4-6 pt* paper pulp

Sufficient fortifier** to produce a moist to slightly wet ÂclayÂ;

*I find a 4 pt pulp mixture is slightly easier to work with. It produces a heavier, denser, presumably stronger piece with a smoother finish.

**Fortifier: 1 pt Acrylic admix or concrete bonding admix to 4 pt water.

Note: As no hardware in Jamaica has ever heard of this material, I ended up using a local product called Ponal. It is described as a Âready for use synthetic resin glue for all types of woodworkÂ. I am still not clear what these admix products are all about, possibly someone on this forum can define them a little better and tell me if I am using the right type of product??

Mix cement and sand. Blend with paper pulp using drill and paint mixer attachment. Add enough fortifier to produce a workable clay. I prefer to keep it on the drier side and add more fortifier as I mold the clay.

I place the finished piece in full sun with a breeze, but protected from rain. Do not cover or moisten as you do with hypertufa. I let it dry for 1 to 2 days before unmolding, depending on the size of the piece and weather conditions and allow to cure for at least two weeks before applying any finish.

So far I have painted and sealed all my pieces because of the high humidity and heavy rains we experience. I have used the following colorants: acrylic craft paint, spray paint, Chinese lacquer, oil base paint (thinned), latex paint (thinned), gentian violet and even food coloring. I seal with either marine spar varnish or latex cement sealer. So far all my finished pieces are holding up very nicely, although it has been only a few months for most. I intend to try several pieces au natural to see what happens.

Here are some sites that I recommend and thank the authors of the posts. I credit them with much of the information I have presented.

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Thanks jamaicapeg for all this info. I would like to know what kind of molds you use. I am off to check out all the sites you listed.

    Bookmark   January 10, 2010 at 8:56PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

So, it's been a few years since this post and I'm wondering how your pieces have held up.

    Bookmark   August 31, 2013 at 2:02PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

What purpose does the paper play? I'm new to this.

    Bookmark   January 18, 2014 at 7:07PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Response to 'Faux Bois Tools'...
You can use just about anything (and everything) you...
New at Hypertufa
I am just getting started at doing hypertufa. I have...
Newbie: Color and Stamp fresh concrete - products & steps pls
Hi All, This is my 1st post - if in wrong forum, pls...
My hypertufa elephant planters and other projects
I used to work with plaster before I discovered hypertufa...
making EASY roof for small tower
I am not sure if i can even do this, but, I want to...
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™