Asian persimmon and juglone

glib(5.5)July 30, 2012

I learned this year that juglone resistance is relative, as I was zero for two with cherries and two for three with peaches, in soil that had been cleared of shrubs over the winter, and in the row nearest the woods. When the nearby woods leafed out I realized that there would be some black walnut residual. Both cherry and peach are rated as juglone resistant, yet the cherry trees croaked before the apples in the row. All trees started well, were planted properly and had ample mulch and water. I have since planted test tomatoes, potatoes, asparagus and petunias to confirm that they, too, would not thrive.

To some extent I knew that juglone resistance is relative, because some of my garlic survives 30 ft from BW and is rated as resistant, but the bulbs are easily 1/5 the size of bulbs grown away from the tree. I guess I just lost a year and a few tens of dollars, but I would like to replant the row with something more juglone resistant. I will replant peaches and cherries in the next row.

Surely american persimmon is resistant, having co-evolved with BW, but what about Japanese persimmon? I have seen enough mild winters in MI that I am willing to try the hardiest Japanese ones, but only if they, too, have resistance. I will till and add organic matter, and place some sort of barrier between orchard and woods. Thanks for any reply.

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canadianplant

You can use a "buffer zone" of trees and plants that grow well (not just resistant) with them. Most maples have no problems. Hosta do well. Nightshade plants do well (as youve seen). Mulberry can be used as well. Same with russian olive. Elderberry, hackberry, wolfberry and currents do well too. The only thing is, hackberry is also alleopathic, so watch that one (it kills grass though!)

You can also use black locust. You basically place the trees and plants around the drip line, then plant the non resistant plants outside of that drip line. THe "buffer plants" take up most of the jugalone, and make you able to grow peaches and what not near it. IF you use russian olive as part of the buffer, they nitrofy the soil, basically fertilizing it.

    Bookmark   July 31, 2012 at 8:51AM
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glib(5.5)

I was considering a zone. Basically, cut a trench, place plastic on the BW side of the trench, then backfill the trench and plant resistant plants. I was considering hybrid willows. If russian olive qualifies, certainly seaberry will qualify too, right?

    Bookmark   July 31, 2012 at 11:27AM
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canadianplant

The trenches wouldnt be as productive as using bearing plants, or at least ornamental.

Any Elaeagnus species should work.

This site says a bit too, namely this, but id still check it out. It lists some plant associations and communities which might give you some ideas to buffer out the jugalone:

"Black alder (Alnus glutinosa) and Russian olive (Elaeagus angustifolia)
interplanted with black walnut increases black walnut's yield because of
their ability to increase available nitrogen in the soil "

http://www.fs.fed.us/database/feis/plants/tree/jugnig/all.html

    Bookmark   July 31, 2012 at 4:48PM
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