Grafting thoughts - Crab apple to Frankentree

megamav(5a - NY)August 8, 2012

Just some thoughts on grafting now that I've had time to think about it.

Is it better to graft onto new wood than old wood?

Obviously with new wood, I wouldnt be able to cleft graft at all. It would have to be a saddle graft, whip and tongue or a splice graft.

I've included a picture, red arrows would be the new growth since cutting the tree back, it looks like its building new scaffolds. If this is the case should I renewal cut the old wood after I graft onto the new wood? (Blue zig-zag)

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marknmt

The big cuts you indicate with the blue lines kinda scare me, but I'll leave that to the more experienced. It just looks like a lot to take off all at once.

All four of the new growth choices look graftable to me, and I think that you'd be able to cleft or whip and tongue or bark graft to any of them in the spring, or bud/chip to them now. I've done cleft grafts to wood that wasn't big enough to support inserts to both sides of the rootstock, but left enough room for one scion, so I think you'd be OK on that count.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2012 at 1:45PM
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megamav(5a - NY)

Im thinking about those cuts over time, maybe one scaffold per year. But im thinking that old wood should be renewed and I probably shouldnt graft to it, because it may not be very productive. I think a good chunk of this tree's framework is 30 years old. It was planted when the house was built and the previous owners let it do whatever it wanted. In the spring I cut most of the branches and scaffolds 1/2 back as they were too long, downward growing and diseased or damaged.
The top red arrow is my projected new central leader.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2012 at 12:20AM
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marknmt

I tend to agree with you, but I wish others would comment.

I'm not sure how big those branches with the blue lines are. Maybe 6"? That does seem on the large size for grafting, but I don't doubt that there are people who do it.

Others?

    Bookmark   August 9, 2012 at 7:46AM
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