I was wondering how easy aroids are to grow from seed? I have come across a few sources, but there has not been any info on how readily they germinate, conditions etc.
In my experience, they germinate quite easily so long as they are fresh. My experience includes Syngonium, Amorphophallus, Alocasia, Philodendron, Anthurium, Caladium, and Synandrospadix.
They need to be kept warm and moist but not wet. Some are easier than others to germinate, but all need to be watched for fungus and/or bacterial infections.
Hope this helps,
Here is a link that might be useful: Aroidia Research
I agree with LariAnn, it is not that hard but really depends on what type of Aroid you are trying to grow. I have only tried growing Cyrtosperma, Philodendron and Anthurium from seed and have had success with them. Philos come up easily in seed starter soil kept moist and warm. Anthuriums do well soaked in luke warm water for a few hours, then remove flesh. Clean and put in Clean Spaghnum moss and keep in a warm humid place. Cyrtosperma the same as Anthurium.
Hi, John !
I sowed Arisaema consanguineum on the 7th of january 2004 and seedlings appeared at the last days of may 2004. They looked nice, I putted them into shade and forgot them a little bit. They overlived in their pots with much sandy-substrate. And as our falls are often very moist, they have been moist during the whole winter in glasshouse. They became dormant very early and got up only on the mid or end of June 2005. But they are wonderful,have nice leaves now and I think, next year they will flower. So retain this: they must not become dry during their first winterperiodes. Good luck!
Hi! What do you use to treat fungus on tiny seedlings of anthurium andraeanum? If there is anyone that knows, it will be you.
Some of my aglaonema seedlings. :D
Wonder what LariAnn thinks about the use of cinnamon for that...?
Another shot of the seedlings...
Copper based fungicide should work fine
In you guys' experience,..these subtle variations in leaf detail...are they likely to stay this way or go crazier still? I fancy the idea that because these guys did not come from slips off another host plant,but are,each of them,unique genetically speaking,they will show their individuality more and more as they mature.
In expecting this,..am I chasing my tail here?
No you got it!
Seeds offer incredible genetic diversity!
Even if the plant self pollenates, there's a good chance, especially if one or both parents ate hybrids!
I can't speak for those plants, but many aroids get better color as they she, some go all green, I think algolema general get more color as they age.
Aglaonema commutatum isn't a hybrid though,right? From what minimal research I've done to answer that so far I'm guessing the answer is no,but I still have hope to see more and more unique characteristics.
In another thread I spoke of recently having visited the same library again to discover (to my delight) that the ags there had gone to seed again. I collected 20 more ripe seeds and repeated my experiment. So far all the seeds look healthy and one of them is beginning to sprout! Color me excited!!
Another thing worthy of note is that although I've only ever heard of ags being really slow growers(sure is true of the one's I have propagated by cuttings),the seedlings from last year have grown at a rate that I really wasn't expecting.
I really don't have a long history of sowing seeds,as I've always believed that slip cuttings was a shortcut to having a larger plant sooner,but in this case it's hard to say.
asleep, how do you know when the seed is ripe? is it certain time of the year, or the way it looks?
It will be red.
The yellow berries aren't ripe enough yet.
When you have a ripe one the flesh is about maybe an eighth of an inch thick around the seed itself,and you remove this first. The red will stain like crazy so use a paper towel to do this part.
Last year what I did at that point was to drop the seeds in one of my ten gallon aquariums that had a film of moisture on the bottom and covered it again to trap the humidity. Before I knew it,they started sprouting. This was when I put each one in it's own little cell(seen in pic above). Since then they've all been moved to yogurt containers,and some have already outgrown those.
This year's seeds were started in a ziplock bag,again with just a film of water. One of them started to poke out a little green point,so I put them in a terrarium.
Hopefully I didn't do this too soon.
We shall see!
so do you know if flowers were self-pollinated?
and how long it took them to ripen?
From what I've read,self pollinating isn't possible. The male flowers open first,and are spent by the time the female flowers further down the spadix are ready.
There were more ags around which explains where the pollen came from(males on one plant were active at the same time as females on another),but the confusing part is that I've also read that the regular pollinator is a type of scarab beetle native to the rainforests that ags call home that are specialized to the task.
I could have it all wrong of course.
Maybe self pollination is actually a possibility(would sure explain a lot).
Also Hand pollinating is doable. Never done it myself,but I've seen websites that show you how.
Not sure how long the berries take to ripen,but when I went to the library there they were waiting for me. Hard to say because it was the first time I'd been there in quite a while.
Here's a link to a thread that has pics of last years seedlings.
Also some good links worth looking at.
Here is a link that might be useful: Link
the reason i was asking - i got a pink thai ag and it constantly throws flowers. but it's a hybrid, so no use trying to get seeds - they are proly sterile. but i entertained the thought anyway, since your seedlings look so good!
i found some info that says only ag.commutatum and it's cultivars can be propagated from seed.
thai ags are supposed to be hybrids of ag.rotundum.
I've read the same thing about the commutatum(same type I harvested from,..go figure). Heartbreaking,isn't it?
Guess there's still stem cuttings though but it's just not the same.
Decided to switch things around a bit. Put the seeds in this container atop a bed of wet pea gravel.
Notice that I'm keeping it on top of some terrarium lights for bottom heat.
Hard to tell what's what in this pic,but some of those bits of pea gravel are actually seeds.
If you look close enough you can see germination occurring.
Here's a handful that have been moved to a ten gallon tank and each given their own little cell of mix.
Upper left corner is one of the seedlings seen up-thread. They've all had a spoiled winter under glass so naturally for the most part they've been chugging right on along.
At the moment the current headcount is nine,so I'd say this has been one of my more successful experiments. =)
having never tried these from seed, am I understanding from all the posts, that you do not have to stratify the seed in the refrigerator for a couple of months before trying to germinate? if I gather the seeds in the fall, can I plant them right then indoors or outdoors or both? any help here appreciated. would really like to try this...
No fridge required. :)
Do you have access to berries? None of mine at home have ever set fruit.
asleep in the garden: I will let you know in the fall!
I find that amorphophallus titanums are pretty easy to grow from seed, but they just take a really long time to grow, and you have to keep them warm at all times, or else they don't grow.
Here are some photos.
First of all,a big THANK YOU goes out to Jfr1107 for hosting the thread and providing a place to have this discussion.
Assuming he,and any of the earlier posters are still around,I hope you will chime in(this thread is coming up on 9 yrs old!).
Sounds great,let us know how it goes. If you know someone with a fruiting ag,it may be sooner than the fall. My latest batch of berries was collected early last april,so who can say when these things set seed and if they even really have a schedule when in cultivation,right? Good luck in your search!
I had a tiny little konjac like...a million years ago,but it was a bulbil,..not a seed...and sadly,it got lost in a move. Sowing amorph seed sounds like a fun challenge,and one I'd be happy to rise to given a chance. Never actually looked into places where one could order aroid type seeds. If any have a recommended source,feel free to relate your experience.
Steve,those titanums are looking good! Keep us updated on their progress,okay?
As to my latest ag sowing experiment,so far 15 out of 20 have popped and if that's "all" I get for my effort,3 out of 4 really ain't too bad.
I just bought my titanum seeds off eBay.
Never bought anything there before,actually.
The day I break down and look into it will likely be problematic in that whole overdoing it kinda way.
So I'm still resisting! ;)
I hope You will be willing to provide us with updates here and there on those seedlings,Steve...from what I understand they're pretty fast growing plants.
One thing about these titanum seeds is that most of them will be viable, but they will launch at different times so you will have them at all different stages of growth.
The key to growing them successfully is to use sterile soil, and making sure they always stay above 45F because these are tropical plants which can be stunted or damaged by cool temperatures. They adjust to higher light very easily due to their thick leaves. Right now the one on the right in the middle picture is just about fully uncurled however the top one in the bottom picture looks like it will be bigger than the rest.
Only the one on the top has already started forming a pin ball sized tuber which should keep growing until it decides to produce it's second leaf which should be much larger. I believe it will happen once this leaf has gathered enough energy from the full sun it gets outdoors now.
steve, where are the pictures you refer to?
My titanum seedlings are now 3 years old and they're getting into brief dormant periods now after being in constant growth since they first sprouted. They also went through a stage of multiple leaves, up to 3 at one time. The old tuber is dormant at the moment. It goes through a year of growth and then a year of dormancy. Should re-emerge early September. Also have a leaf cutting with a developing tuber. Will start doing a lot more of that once new growth comes on.
do all callas....go through a year of growth and then a year of dormancy. ?
There are pictures up a few posts of some a titanum seedlings. They are pretty easy to take care of. They are now on the driveway in order to get extra heat to fuel faster growth.
Mine are however light in color. Is there any way to darken them up?
Casagrande, I don't grow Callas so don't know. I was referring to Amorphophallus titanum in my post above.
tropicbreez.....please forgive my plant ignorance. I thought aroids were callas. sorry.
No, Callas are aroids, along with lots of other plants. What aroids have in common is the same general shape of flowers, similar to Callas.
so i decided to try and sprout the ripe red berry too - from anthurium plowmanii monster may be 5'-6' high?
they are quite small the 1st two years - so i should be ok for a while yet, provided they'll survive winter...
out of 7 seeds 5 swelled up well, and 4 seemed to be starting to sprout in 3weeks..when they got knocked over ....:0!
but at least 2 survived and made 1st leaves.
they are still in perlite with LF sphag underneath.
i kept them on a heat mat and domed from the start and 1 week later they sprouted. then i started opening the lid up and using heat mat only at nite.
now it's 1 month after sprouting.
i have the beginning of the 2nd leaf. and they are in bright light with just a little dappled sun. they kept leaning and i kept moving them until they stopped - which was a foot from the window under other plants so in dappled shade.
This post was edited by petrushka on Mon, Jul 28, 14 at 10:22
Anthurium plowmanii seedlings!
OOOOH I'm so jealous!
I love the variety of shapes and textures available in anthuriums but haven't seen anything but the typical flamingo sort available for years. Had a bird'snest anth like fifteen years ago or so but lost it in a move.
Nice work Petrushka!
Here's an update on my latest batch of ags...
it's only thanks to your posts about ag that i got an idea!
so are these the 1st batch or the 2nd?
i am thinking of getting an aquarium and setting up closed terrarium for these babies - 'cause i'll be going on vacation inevitably.... i also sprouted a cycad (zamia furfuraceae) and lignum vitae tree from seeds i picked up on a street sidewalk :)))...
for now they are sitting under a cut-off 2qt plastic bottle with an opening on top.
ARGH...I just lost one of those sago nuts under glass not so long ago...the darned thing rotted on me when I had had success with these before.
Purp sent it to me and I really wanted to show it off too.
Awesome that yours popped for you though...they really are amazing critters,aren't they?
I'm honored to have been your inspiration,Petrushka. It's cool feeling like your part of something. :)
Get the aquarium.
It's worth it!
Edited to say that these seedling are from the second batch. The first batch got smacked with bad weather,and what's left of it wasn't looking too good but we shall see what rises from the ashes,so to speak.
This post was edited by asleep_in_the_garden on Wed, Jul 30, 14 at 13:14
wow, i don't put my babies out, i coddle them to the max!
last year i got an idea from grab about alocasia bulbils (did you see my posts about that?) - it's not seeds, but pretty close, since you can't really propagate hybrid from seeds.
most of bulbils except for 2 went dormant in jan when i was away. but i woke them up again with the same technique.
they have grown quite a bit since.
here's my brood sunning in the window :).
i think i'll go and update that thread with more recent pics. this forum is so-o slow, might as well indulge myself.
Here is a link that might be useful: how i woke up my african mask bulbils
This post was edited by petrushka on Wed, Jul 30, 14 at 20:30
Sorry I've been away so long.
Your collection of growing bulbils is just incredible...look at them GO!
My poly decided to go dormant on me again and in frustration I put it in a box and sent it to Purpleinopp. I have high hopes that it will perform better for her down in lower alabama. The growing season up here just isn't that long so at least down there it will have more of a chance to thrive.
I have had such a horrible history with these...it was the humane thing to do! lol
Currently growing Monstera plants from seed. Hard part is to find fresh seeds, after that it's easy. I had 20 of somewhat old seeds, out of 20 4 gave me baby monstera sprouts in 2 weeks or so. Lately we have rather cold days, so they develop slower than expected.
I also received fresh batch of seeds this Friday, not sure how those perform yet.
Would love to see pics and updates here and there. Documenting that would be really cool. :)
asleep in the garden...............just to inform you my calla lily seeds are still asleep in the garden...
Oh man...that's a bummer.
My first thought was omg fall is upon us...they'll never make it..!
...Then I looked at your info there and saw you were in zone 10. lol
Personally,i'd have started them indoors in a terrarium,but where you are at,I imagine it's about the same thing to sow outside. :)
asleep in the garden...........actually in zone 7....I am thinking they may surprise me in the spring....stay tuned...
Oh my...7 is a little chillier,but from what I've read,established callas with a secure root system should have no problem getting through the winter. Question is,will seeds that haven't germinated yet make it?
Hard to say,but up here in minnesota,a couple years back,I had tomatoes that were flattened under a couple feet of snow,which to my amazement,after the entirety of the cold season,actually had viable(and germinating)seeds within.
Color me hopeful! :)
LOL now I have one more reason to wish spring would hurry up and get here...and it's not even winter yet! ;)
my flowering anthurium andreanum 'alabama' had thrips, and apparently they serve as pollinators. there are 2 stems/plants in the pot - and they are blooming at the same time too. so, to my surprise i can see seed berries forming! i saw a post somewhere (plants are the strangest?) that they sprout very easily, like in 2 weeks if fresh, in moist LF sphag. but the question is, how long will it take for berries to ripen? prolly a few months or more?
petrushka...........may I please ask you. what is the word "prolly"? what does it mean?
Short for "probably". :)
For heaven's sake,I hope you're willing to document/share! =)
hey, i've been documenting quite a bit, but there's hardly any response or interest: why bother? i always take pics for myself though, there's a chance i'll post 5 years from now when my a. plowmanii becomes a 4' monster and i plop it in the ground someplace in FL ;). or my african mask seedlings become my ground cover! that will be the day.
a.plowmanii is on a 4th leaf and it is about an inch now. i'm going to get a plastic critter cage for use as a small terrarium and see if i can completely close them off in it for the winter.
found the seed post.
it takes 5-6 mo for seeds to ripen! and then 3-5 years for the seedling to bloom - way OVER my head. but i sprouted cyclamen from my very own seed-pods (much harder! to sprout) and grew seedlings enclosed in an egg-crate for a year! and out of a dozen got 2 plants that survived - which i kept going strong and flowering profusely for 5 years, overwintering indoors of course. that was just a whim..
so, it could be that i can sprout and grow anthuriums too...
actually there are many-many lengthy posts about seedlings and hydrids and how they develop,etc - lots of good reads, but you have to pop open each calendar entry to see if it's about anthuriums. there's often interesting commentary too.
Here is a link that might be useful: anthurium andreanum seed propagation
This post was edited by petrushka on Sat, Sep 6, 14 at 13:56
so i decided it was time to pot up my anthuriums plowmanii sprouts into 3" pots. Lined with coco-fiber 'net' with yarn wick inserted inside for self-watering, then a thin layer of lava rock to absorb extra water and get more air down at the bottom. and then i layered LF NZ moss with a little perlite mixed with reg canadian sphag, then lifted the root ball undisturbed from the original 'tub' and tucked in more LF NZ sphag on top and around, pretty loosely. so it's 50% LF sphag and the rest perlite.
they will be covered with very tall domes made from clear plastic 2qt bottles, with top open for ventilation - until i set up a terrarium for them.
one is double the size of the other. here's a pic
by no means did I mean to imply that you haven't been an awe inspiring contributor(you really are,you know!). Sorry if it seemed that way. I agree that things are pretty slow around here all things considered,and I know I would participate more regularly myself if I wasn't constantly distracted by one thing or another.
Thanks for the link. PATSP is a great blog,and I haven't looked into it much lately so it's great to look into it again.
The seedlings are looking great!
Really impressive stuff going on over there!
Still haven't gotten around to acquiring long fiber sphag yet. The more I see your successes,the more I realize that it's crucial that I get some.
I know I'm hardly alone in appreciating your contributions here at GW. The experience and creativity that you so willingly share are priceless...and while I can totally relate to the "why bother?" mentality,I hope the general lack of participation doesn't slow you down too much. You're input would be missed more than you know!
thanks for kind words, asleep! my plants keep me going, so to speak ;).
you got me started on berries, who knows whom i will start on bulbils?
the more the merrier.
i read somewhere that LF sphag stimulates root development and has also anti-bacterial properties, which is good for young plants. there's an interesting experiment going on in orchid forum about growing phals in various mediums to see what works best. LF shag is of course in many mixes. interesting info about it, go check it out.
i supplement with reading other online forums, since i find that houseplants turned into 'plant-killers' parade for most part - i find it more and more depressing. it's like a giant tsunami wave that never stops. i like talking with more experienced growers - not many of which are posting regularly, unfortunately.
but i make do. i found a post on ATP about exoticrainforest site archived at IAS site. it's not very active there either, but there are sev growers posting - which is more then here. seen a few people from here too.
I've been a member of GW for quite a while now,and somehow I am not really able to find the energy reserves to participate much in much else,forum-wise. A few months ago, Purp turned me on to ATP,and I made a profile there and even took part in a discussion or two. It's a pretty cool place,and yes..I too have noticed a few of the regulars from around here as well. If/when the day comes that I can pull myself out of the rut I'm in,I'm pretty sure that's where the over-spill will run. A creature of habit...to a fault. *sigh*
Oh by the way...the other day I mixed up some plant food without measuring...just kinda eyeballed it,right? Something tells me I should have been a bit more exact in my method because I used it to dribble my seedlings with and thankfully only one of them is yellowing,but something tells me I burned them a bit. Sometimes it really is like I'm sleepwalking around here only to wake up later wondering wth I did this time. Gets pretty frustrating. lol
asleep in the garden............do you suppose that the slowing down of posts may be due to the time of year..
bad-bad-bad! i hope you're not planning to finish your 2nd batch BEFORE winter? so you can lazy for a few months :)?
see, LF shag has nutrients enough for orchids to grow for sev years. with minimal supplementation of micros. that's a big plus. i read about aroids that nursery people use fertilizer with high (60%?) urea vs high nitrates - for initial fast growth. urea is utilized much faster.
i use kelp in the very beginning and after a couple of months AV fertilizer 7:7:7 - with reg dilution of 7 drops per qt. and i water with a squeeze bottle just on the perimeter (small sauce/mustard bottles with nozzle are great), not near the stems...most aroid seedlings grow rather slow - so they don't really need that much fertilizer, especially with some sphag and peat in the mix.
think i should be able to switch to wick watering with liquid ferts for a.plowmanii in a few months. then it's easy!
i find energy by switching focus: var silly propagation projects and new plants mostly.
some successes counter-weigh inevitable problems. but this year the greenhouse thrips wore me out to the bone. but i'm gaining on them. i HAVE TO be clean for winter, it's like a packed greenhouse here - one stumble, and then it's months of spraying...by the way PATSP has a big problem with thrips too. and of course i do AV's too - which are a total feast for them! more like banquet eternal ...
i found a solution: bag and fumigate with mothball flakes for about a month to be sure. works like a charm on all plants, except begonias (don't even ask!). that's what they do for gladiolus bulbs - to kill off thrips in the bulbs over storage period. of course, my amaryllis were a breeding ground too...sigh
paraphrasing m jackson:
You Wanna Be Tough, Better Bag What You Can,
beat it-beat it ... bag it - bag it !!!
Very interesting that you should mention mothballs as a fumigation for thrips...I remember finding similar info regarding scale. When I mentioned it on a scale thread a year or two ago,nobody (that I noticed) said anything about it,either to the good or to the bad,..so naturally I've wondered about that.
Last year's indoor sentence for my plants was strangely lucky and I saw no outbreaks,but now that I see you state that the mothball approach is safe I'll have less fear in implementing it in the future should the need arise.
LOL when you say don't even ask (concerning begonias),you KNOW you only make us all the more curious,right? ;)
So far it's only one leaf on one seedling that went yellow on me. Funny thing is that it would likely have been chalked up to some other issue had I not remembered what I'd done on the day just previous. So far it looks like any damage was minor. Needless to say that in the future I'll have to be more careful when mixing up feed solutions...I can be pretty brain-dead sometimes. heh
it's safe, but when you unbag them - do it in a well ventilated space.
i crush/bag outside or in the bathroom, where exhaust will pull it out fast. gladioli people put moth balls/flakes in sealed paper bags with bulbs, since bulbs can't be in plastic directly and need to breathe and will rot from condensation.
i think you can do paper-bags and then plastic. that's what i'll try.
i use 1 moth ball crushed per large dry-cleaners bag and put flakes in two bottle caps, not directly on soil. so i see if it needs refilling. and i won't be dealing with after fumes when i unbag and remove the caps. i've had no smell whatsoever in the apt - so was sealed OK.
and of course, it has to be air-tight to work. i seal dry-cleaning bags on top with clear postal tape and gather up the bottom tight around the pot and wrap an elastic around to keep it tight. anything stretchy will do, so long as it's air-tight.
but it didn't bother mites! - and i had high hopes! scale? so smbody said it worked on them? that would be handy! last year i did sev sprays with fish emulsion (citrus forum recommendation) on outdoor plants before bringing them in. and i did not have scale in winter -1st time ever! but i still use bonide indoor systemic too, since i can't monitor for long stretches at a time. gotta do what you gotta do.
don't even ask ..- indicates extreme frustration and anguish...yah, it could be relieved somewhat by venting. glad you asked :)))!
my biggest tuberous begonia monitored closely after a week was fine, after 10 days many leaves/stems just dropped off, rotted. and i did spray with antifungal prior to bagging. it's surviving outside now and started regrowing - but it was awesome looking before 'treatment'. now 2/3 of foliage is gone!
sorry, it's a bit of a side-line conversation. sigh. sniff...
need to bag african mask seedlings too - same problem: thrips. almost eradicated them, but without bagging can't be sure.
see pock-marks on the left leaf - could be even worse.that's thrips and they live inside the leaf sheath - so for aroids it's impossible to get rid of them by just spraying, you can't get inside the rolled up young leaf!
the leaves can come out totally clean, and then they hatch a week later...
you prolly can't see it well, but on a.plowmanii right seedling there are white spots on leaf-edges: thrips again.
and here's the flower anthurium leaf thrip damage -spots and squiggly lines. and on the spathe you get this ugly brown lines. you can see them on a lot of spathes at PATSP.
No dice on spider mites,eh? That's too bad...makes me wonder about the scale,which I've never had much luck fighting over the winter,but once outside nature remedies it pretty quickly. It's like the predators are just waiting with forks and knives in hand. lol
So the leaf loss of the begonia was brought about by the mothball? If not,then what?
Of COURSE I welcome venting! Let it all out! :D
Here's a shot of my yellowing leaf...
so these are 2-3" ? looking nice.
as far as tuberous begonia goes - it's not the mothballs, it's bagging. stagnant air i'd guess, too hi humidity. the large one is hairy like rex - they are very sensitive to all kinds of molds. i think that's what got it.
i was weary - sprayed anti-fungal, but even that was not enough. probably if i'd unbagged it after 1 week for a day or so then it would've been at least better? who knows...
some gain, some loss. i am not THAT fond of it, it drops buds constantly, but it was just monstrously impressively HUGE....
it's already shooting 4 new stalks from the base!
where is your homalomena?
I had an escargo many years ago but lost it in a move. Much as I loved it back then,I really haven't paid much attention to beggies in general. I'm sure I'll get the bug again one day...they are way too beautiful to ignore forever.
Got the homalomena(emerald gem) late last year and took a teeny weeny division from it to keep a little journal with. You may have seen the post. It surfaced now and again as I updated it. Meanwhile later in the winter(I know...worst time to do this) I ended up dividing the rest of the plant up. A while back I sent the one form the journal and a slightly larger one to Purp,and they've been doing great for her(I'm so pleased!) The largest of my divisions is in a terrarium in the front window. I really wish I got more light in this location.
Anyhoo...here's a shot of the ter out front...
it'd looking good. the leaves remind me a lot of tulip anthuriums (a. amnicola). i've seen some pics of a grown plant and leaves get much bigger. does it require very high humidity always?
From what I've read it's tolerant of conditions with less than perfect humidity,but if and when I can,I spoil them with terrariums Last winter I had the plant in the open air in my bedroom and it started to decline on me. That's when I decided to tear it apart and re-start the divisions.
Personally,I think they need it more than some indicate out there on the web.