Amorphophallus titanum leaf cutting

johnsonm08(5a)July 11, 2013

I've had good success with this process (100% for 4 attempts) so I thought I would share so others might give it a try.
On 2-18-13 I took 2- 6 inch cuttings from the mature leaf of the mother plant.

I cut them right at the "Y" and dipped them in Rootone.

I used sterilized potting soil with the fine particles sifted out. The soil is damp, but not soaked, and is left kind of loose and fluffy. My container is a plastic "Critter Keeper" with a heatpad (this was a setup for hermit crabs and the box and heater are available at petstores). The temp is stable around 84f deg. The box is under fluorescent light 12hrs a day.

On 5-23-13 the smaller leaf has this small tuber with no roots yet.

On 6-3-13 the larger leaf has a nice tuber with roots.

On 7-6-13 the smaller leaf/tuber breaks the surface with new growth and gets its own 6"pot.

7-16-13 the sprout from the larger leaf broke the surface and was re-potted. The tuber on this one is larger than a quarter.

This is up to date now, I will add more as it develops.

This post was edited by johnsonm08 on Thu, Jul 18, 13 at 17:42

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Reserved for updates.

    Bookmark   July 11, 2013 at 12:03PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

much thanks for this.. !!
i wish i had done some with my big plant last fall..sigh
anyways..i plan to this yr..when the titanums get fully
branched out..
critter cages huh?? seems like an easy set up.. im all for easy.. :)
i'll have to check them out..
keep us posted on progress..time takes for rooting.. when do u transplant to individual pots???

    Bookmark   July 11, 2013 at 7:19PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

139 days from cut to potting up.

    Bookmark   July 12, 2013 at 11:42AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

very cool mike..
and much thanks for step by step progress with this batch..
so?? do u have a forest of titanums?? :)

    Bookmark   July 12, 2013 at 10:07PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I updated with the potting up of the second cutting. 149 days from cutting to sprouted tuber.
Lomodor--more like a grove now LOL.

    Bookmark   July 18, 2013 at 5:45PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
grabmebymyhandle(6 Kentucky)

For anyone, such as myself that is somewhat unsure where to cut...
I figured out a neat truck to help figure it out

The pic is of a leaf bulb forming inside of A. Symonianus... Any leaf bulb forming type will work, simply back light the leaf and you can very clearly see where the bulb is!
No doubt this would correspond with locating a proper sized node location within a Titan...

It's really cool, even if it had no practical purpose, but I think it's rather useful, it's boosted my confidence on where to make the cut on my Titan!

    Bookmark   July 24, 2013 at 3:28PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

ok gonna try it...:)
my 2nd largest titanum is opening up nicely now..
but..geessshh.. the leaves are HUGE.. they are
7 inches long..
i'll get some good potting mix tomorrow at HD..
did u add any perlite to your mix..or just the mix??
any use of kelp ..anything besides the roottone?
also..once u noticed rooting..did u cut the leaf back any?
did u give any fertilizing up to point of potting up tiny corm?
u r my resource for info..:)
im going to use 10 gallon aquariums.. left over from days when i bred angelfish.. glad i didnt get rid of them..
i guess also not to overwater while they are in rooting container.. no drainage..
did u make holes in bottom of the "critter keeper"?
again..thanks man !!!
grab?? have u tried making cutting yet???

    Bookmark   August 20, 2013 at 11:51PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
grabmebymyhandle(6 Kentucky)

My leaf isn't mature yet, I want to let it fully unfurl and fill out first, I may give it another week or 2 beyond that to harden off...

It seems like a recipe for disaster to try it will a leaf that's not ready, they are so succulent and full of water I'm sure it would rot!

    Bookmark   August 21, 2013 at 2:34PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

when your leaves are ready..hope u try it grab..
i set my incubator up this morning..cut 4 leaves..
had to find ones that werent
im using a 10 gal aquarium.. cleaned up..
got some good seedling start mix.. added some perlite
cut the leaves.. dipped them in superthrive.then in the
root hormone powder..
all covered..i have thermostat set on heat mat to 85F
now i wait..:)

    Bookmark   August 21, 2013 at 3:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I guess you already started, but :
Its a sealed system, no drainage, no additional water--the humidity is 100% or so.
The soil is damp, but not wet to start, and I left it very fluffy--not compacted or soggy.
No fert till the tip breaks ground.
Keep us posted!!

    Bookmark   August 23, 2013 at 11:00PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

thanks johnson.. i hope im as successful as u have been..
i added perlite to the was a good quality mix..good and light..
i have plastic over it..and its sealed.. temps are holding
at just under 84F now..
now its the wait.. :)

    Bookmark   August 24, 2013 at 1:13AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


Did the cuttings work?

    Bookmark   April 10, 2014 at 6:36AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

nope..:( sigh..
i used leaves from titanum that has HUGE leaves..
some got almost 14 inches long..
i think when i try it again..i'll use leaves from titanum that has shorter leaves..

    Bookmark   April 10, 2014 at 8:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I believe that you may want to use some plant hormones, rooting hormones, and get them into humidity domes underneath a t5 setup in order to give them the best chance possible.

Also it may help to take the leaf cutting when they appear to have the highest starch content.

I'm nowhere close to the level where i can take cuttings yet.

Couldn't you also air layer them?

    Bookmark   April 11, 2014 at 1:00AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

FWIW: I'm using a pot of live spagnum of "Kiwi" (New Zealand) origin to start my titanum cuttings. I dip the end of the leaf cutting in Yate's "Clonex" and just poke it down into the living moss. So far I've had success with everyone I've done. Bugger growing them from seed. The cutting method gives better results with zero "genetic misfits."

    Bookmark   December 20, 2014 at 9:00PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

It looks like the a titanum grows similar to a ZZ plant eh. It seems to make sense that leaf cuttings would be the most efficient form of propagation for this type of plant.

I think the key to success is getting it enough humidity and strong light so the leaves can produce enough energy to form tubers and roots. Warm soil is important too.

All I have is small seedlings, mostly just spikes so I'm nowhere close to trying something like this yet.

    Bookmark   December 23, 2014 at 9:53AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

It also seems that you don't have to be too fussy about what part of the leaf you use. I even have left over pieces of random leaf stem material that are developing roots after only a week in the spagnum pot.

I doubt that I'll bother with seeds again. Although almost all of the seeds I purchased did germinate successfully, about a third of them are what I would call "genetic misfits." By this I mean the old roll of the genetic dice has produced some strong, vigorous individuals along with straggly prodigy that should be relegated to the compost bin. This is true with all plants I've grown from seed and not just A.titanum. It's just that with the price you pay per titanum seed, no one is inclined to do a bit of "selective breeding." This shouldn't be such a problem with cutting grown material.

    Bookmark   December 25, 2014 at 7:58PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Since there's nowhere you can actually buy a titanum leaves for propagation, the best way is to just pick out the seedling that grows the most vigorously out of the entire batch.

Since some seeds are simply larger than other ones starting out with more starch, I guess it will be necessary to let them grow out a few more leaves before telling which seedlings are the keepers.

One thing I've found about the seeds is that they literally take 4-6 months to put out a leaf, even with bottom heat.

    Bookmark   December 25, 2014 at 8:51PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I found the same thing with the last batch of seeds I grew. Some bolted almost immediately, but most were bloody slow. I still have one fat, plump seed that has only a small, healthy shoot, but it seems to be taking its time to accomplish any grown from the shoot stage. I may bin this bugger if it doesn't show a bit more initiative!

    Bookmark   December 26, 2014 at 5:36AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

It's been a couple months. Just wondering, how is the leaf cutting going? I'm not planning on doing it until my plants get a bit bigger, but now I do have plenty of seedlings fully leafed out.

    Bookmark   February 17, 2015 at 11:43AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

My leaf cuttings have gone dormant, or the little tubers have. Since one of the larger plants has put out a new leaf I'll be starting a new cutting soon. I find they do better if you use younger leaflets. Older leaflets tend to give up too easily.

    Bookmark   February 17, 2015 at 4:28PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

My leaf tubers are expanding and producing roots, but still no shoots. I've actually had pretty good luck with older leaflets. I recently stuck a couple of fresh, younger leaves in the old sphagnum filled propagation pot just to see how they would do.

We're getting heaps of rain at present and the temperatures are staying well above 20C. Cooler winter and "drizzle season" is just around the corner and I'll have to start thinking about how to keep the temps up and the water off without moving the buggers indoors.

Tropic, Thanks for the hint on how to re-establish one's connection with this forum. I must admit that I'm not very impressed with the change over.

Also in reply to your email: Yes, I would be very interested in an A. galbra tuber if it isn't a big problem for you. Also let me know if there is anything (other then the fishtail lawyer vine seed) that would work in trade. I'll probably have to wait until November for the fishtail seed to ripen.

    Bookmark   February 17, 2015 at 7:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Just wondering. If leaf cuttings are not all that hard, then wouldn't injuring a leaf, then air-layering some branches work in terms of getting you plants that still have access to energy from the mother plant? it's not all that hard to air layer as long as you can keep the layered area moist, and injure the growing point enough for stem cells to form, causing roots.

Has anyone ever tried that before?

I would like to, but none of my plants are big enough. I really doubt they will produce tubers any bigger than a golf ball with leaves of this size.

    Bookmark   last Friday at 2:18PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I'm using, at present, leaf cuttings from a two year old seedling. None of the tubers that are being produced are anywhere near "golf ball" size. In fact most, so far, haven't even reached "pea size." All of the small tubers are producing the classic top-of-tuber roots, but none have a shown a leaf shoot yet.

    Bookmark   last Friday at 3:55PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

I think you may not have quite enough energy in your leaf cuttings if they are not producing a leaf yet.

I'm not overly watering my pots, but the older ones do seem to be gaining weight in comparison to what they were when they started so I believe tuber formation is already starting. I'm only using 4X 54 watt T5 lights 2-8 inches away from the leaves. The lights are on 16 hours a day to supplement the window light which really doesn't add much.

I believe that warmth, and light levels are very important for energy production. The room mine are growing in stays at 72F, and I use a heat mat to add some bottom heat. I'm looking forward for some of them to start making their 2nd leaf which should be much bigger, but that should take 2-3 more months since they are only a bit over 3 months old, started from seed. Some haven't completely put out their leaf yet, but some have been leafed out over a month.

    Bookmark   last Friday at 6:56PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Plenty of natural sunlight, naturally high humidity and daytime temps up to 33C during the day and 20C+ during the night, but still a bit slow with leaf production. Most of my "juvenile" titanums can be a bit slow when going from shoot to full leaf. Sometimes the shoots will stay that way for months and then all of a sudden put up a leaf in a week's time. Compared to the other Amorphs growing nearby in the same bush house (see photo below), the titanums are on a whole 'nother wavelength.

Left to right: A. paeoniifolius, A. muelleri, A. konjac, A. bulbifera

    Bookmark   last Saturday at 12:49AM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Alocasia Colocasia
Can any one ID this for me its supposed to be alocasia...
Alocasia & Colocasia help pls. - new @ this forum
Hello all, I have mostly not have experience...
What do you do when Arum italicum naps?
I have a good size area blanketed in arum in the shade...
Anyone know the name of this Aglaonema hybrid? Only...
Helicodiceros muscivorus won't sleep
In oktober 2013 I bought on E-bay a Dead Horse Arum...
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™