golden climber suggestions?

aimeekitty(9-10, SW 18)September 22, 2011

I'm considering removing some of my wisteria and planting a bright climbing rose instead.

I'm looking for something with an peachy-yellow-orange look.

My favorite, based on photos I've seen of it online is "Crown Princess Margareta"... but I don't know how well it does.

Some roses I was considering are:

Bouquet d'Or

Crown Princess Margareta

Janet Inada

Reve d'Or

But I'm open to other options.

I'd prefer to have something that is pretty foolproof, not something that will be wimpy like Gloire de Dijon was for me. :\

I'd also like something with a relatively fast rebloom. Fragrance would be a plus but not a necessity.

zone 9-10, SW 18, inland southern california, alkaline clay.

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Crepuscule might be a good one -- orangey yellow to almost butterscotch in some weather. Blooms all the time. Moderate climber. And it's quite disease resistant for us.

    Bookmark   September 22, 2011 at 3:06PM
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Aimee, how many hours of direct sun will the flowers receive? The Canyon Country sun can be BRUTAL. You'll find blooms with fairly good petal substance more pleasing in the long run than anything papery. Crepuscule is a glorious rose as long as you can shield some of the flowers from the hottest sun so you can actually get to see and enjoy them before they fry. Kim

    Bookmark   September 22, 2011 at 3:40PM
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aimeekitty(9-10, SW 18)

Right now this is a pretty sunny spot. Part of the rose would get some shade from the approx 5 foot wall it would be growing on (in the afternoon) but as the rose grows up the wall it would get more sun. And it would be getting full sun all day until this point.

    Bookmark   September 22, 2011 at 4:23PM
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The softer the petal substance, the faster they're going to fry in that sun/heat. You'll have better lasting potential from thicker, heavier petals. We just don't have enough humidity and cloud interference here to filter some of that extreme heat from the sunlight. I have the same issue here in Encino. Softer petals fry quickly. Thicker petals hang on a while longer before they look spent. Kim

    Bookmark   September 22, 2011 at 5:38PM
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aimeekitty(9-10, SW 18)

so,... would any on my list be appropriate? I don't really know which ones have thicker petals. /newbie

    Bookmark   September 22, 2011 at 5:53PM
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le_jardin_of_roses(zone 10)

Teasing Georgia has pretty yellow blooms, with a touch of peach and it's such a graceful climber. Crown Princess Margareta is very nice, with fragrant, pretty blooms that are strong peach in color, then changing to more of a mango yellow. The only thing is, these two beauties tend to bloom mostly in spring, with modest repeat later in the summer/fall of scattered blooms. Both can do well under hot, dry conditions, though. Both very healthy, too.

For something that is more of a continuous bloomer, try Climbing Gold Badge. A very nice golden yellow climber that can take heat.
For a more adventurous choice, the climber Summer Wine has single to semi-double blooms that are peachy, with a touch of pink and gold in them. It blooms well and when in full flight, can look like a hundred butterflies in the air. It's supposed to be fine in heat too. Heirloom roses has these two.

Bonne Chance,


    Bookmark   September 22, 2011 at 7:13PM
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I would second the suggestion for Crepuscule, certainly the most amazing deep golden yellow-orange climber I've ever seen.

Reve d'Or is okay, a bit faded in bright sun or heat. It is a decent rose, but pastel, not bright.

The Bouquet d'Or widely available here in the USA is said to be not very vigorous. I have even heard the word feeble used in reference to it. Vintage has imported a clone from France that is said to be much heartier. I have it on order but have not seen it in action yet.

I have not grown Janet Inada or Crown Princess Margareta, and don't know how they would do for you.


    Bookmark   September 23, 2011 at 12:00AM
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mudbird(10 soCA)

I think Crepuscule might be a good one - I've got it planted in the hottest, sunniest and dryest spot in my garden atop a retaining wall, and it's doing great. I'm located just a couple miles from the ocean and my microclimate's pretty cool and cloudy much of the time. Crepuscule sulked in my yard until I moved her to this spot - the only problem so far with this rose is that it seems to grow horizontally more than vertical. I've heard that it throws out tall canes after 5 years. I've also got Teasing Georgia and it's been almost nonstop blooming since March altho it's only a year old - it's a grafted rose and it gets a lot of water where it's planted. Crepuscule might be a better bet for Canyon Country - I know it's recommened for Australian gardens.

    Bookmark   September 23, 2011 at 2:34AM
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jerijen(Zone 10)

As you are INLAND, I agree with Mudbird -- Crepuscule may just do the trick. If you have ANY doubt, you might want to try for it budded, rather than own-root, and for that you would look to Burlington Rose Nursery.

I've never been able to grow Crepuscule here, own-root. My last attempt was rooted from a lusty plant in the Sacramento Cemetery. When it began to fail, I gave it to Burling Leong. She grew it out in the lovely heat of Visalia, and a year and a bit later handed me a budded 'Crepuscule.' Sooooooo . . . She should be able to supply it.

My budded Crepuscule is still a smallish plant, but it is now growing with real vigor in a 5-G., and is just going into a flush of bloom.

The other option is Reve d'Or, which is a magnificent soft peach in the Sacramento City Cemetery, and a more golden apricot here, near the coast. It is one of the most disease-free roses I know, and generous of bloom. We love it enough to grow three.

Reve d'Or in the Sacramento City Cemetery:


    Bookmark   September 23, 2011 at 12:29PM
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I grew Crepuscule in the San Fernando Valley and in Newhall, just a few miles from where Aimee's garden is. The plant was good in both areas, other than mildew issues early in the season and more heavily on the immature plants. It does grow more horizontally, almost like a mounding ground cover, until it develops the roots it requires to promote and anchor the climbing canes. Once the heat hit, I seldom saw fresh flowers due to the extreme heat, aridity and intense sunlight crisping the flowers because of the papery petal substance. It IS a gorgeous rose and very aptly named. The bronzy new foliage is a perfect foil for the flower color.

If partial sun can be provided, the flowers you expect to enjoy can be found. If not, there will be months of "enjoying" fried petals. The Santa Clarita Valley is a great place to live. The sun levels are often extreme and the heat can be oppressive at times. It's more mid desert than somewhere like Rancho Mirage and Palm Springs where the highs are ten to fifteen degrees greater at the extremes. The lows are warmer than the higher desert area of the Antelope Valley where it can not only get hotter, but quite a bit colder.

Traditionally, the air is quite dry and there is often wind, frequently dry and hot, and at times, rather extreme. I lived just down the hill from where Aimee is for thirteen years, having relocated two years ago.

I think you should be able to have enjoyable flowers on the north face of the plant where it will receive sun over the wall and reflected back from the inside of the yard. I don't think those toward the upper part of that face, nor the ones across the top of the plant, where most of them will appear, are going to last very long.

In Valencia, again just a few miles away, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Malmaison, Souv. de St. Anne's, Malvern Hills, Lordly Oberon, Comte de Chambord, Penelope, White Pet, Abraham Darby and Mrs. F. W. Sanford flowers fry the day they open in the sun and heat. Those which don't crisp as quickly in both Valencia and Stevenson Ranch, based upon working with them over the past seven years have been Dortmund, Sally Holmes, Secret Garden, Royal Sunset, Rosarium Uetersen, Polka, Social Climber. Where Lordly Oberon receives full, direct sun, the petals crisp and flowers ball, refusing to open. Where it is sheltered and receives partial sun, they open properly. Neither receives sprinkler water so it isn't balling due to irrigation over spray. Malvern Hills fry as they open. Souv. de Mme. August Charles fries in temps over 85 degrees. Annie Laurie McDowell performs as I suggested might be expected from Crepuscule. Those which are cooked in full, direct sun all day, crisp. Those on the lower northern face, remain fresh and last. In both gardens, the plants are watered thoroughly, the burning being a function of heat absorption and high evaporation and the worst offenders are those with very soft, papery petals, more often with greater fragrance. Dortmund has very stiff, waxy petals and while they do fade with time, never crisp. Polka fades and takes days to crisp. Oddly, Royal Sunset took several days to crisp. Sally Holmes never crisps in either garden and receives the same sun, heat and wind as the other climbers mentioned, even more than Penelope.

Golden Celebration lasted a few days before crisping where it was more sheltered by the house. Where it wasn't, they were burned in less than two days.

What did perform quite well as far as bloom production and lasting qualities of the flowers were William Allen Richardson and Duchesse d'Auerstadt. Both had flowers which resisted crisping quickly and both, once established, flowered heavily. Reve d'Or has too few petals and blows quickly. Buff Beauty blew and dropped quickly. Graham Thomas blooms last fairly well, but aren't as reliable, with too much plant for the quantity of flowers and too great a rest between flushes. It is as stiff and unpleasant to work with as Polka. The Pilgrim blooms fairly well, but is too large for the bloom production and the flowers fall in a few days.

It can be rather difficult finding something which has the right combination of heavier petal substance, lighter color, preferably smaller petal (less surface area to heat up) and more "form" to the petal, preventing flat surfaces to absorb more heat from direct sun causing it to crisp. Perhaps if the area had more humidity to the air like coastal California and areas of the South East, to reduce the plant's transpiration rate and filter some of the radiant heat, they'd last longer. They "sweat" and need to "drink" as much as we do when it gets hot and dry. Kim

    Bookmark   September 23, 2011 at 12:47PM
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Going through this thread I was beginning to wonder that no one had mentioned 'Duchesse d'Auerstaedt', when Kim listed it as a possible. Mine is grafted and is a large, vigorous, floriferous plant. I don't know how it would stand up to a very hot dry climate, but I've never seen the flowers on mine fry, and my mature plant is drought tolerant. The blooms are large, globular, and a distinct golden yellow--one of the strongest yellows among the Teas and Tea-Noisettes--and they're fragrant, smelling of Tea. I don't know how it would do on its own roots, there seems to be some doubt about its vigor grown that way. But what a fine, satisfactory rose.

    Bookmark   September 24, 2011 at 12:30AM
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Melissa, Long term, I don't know how the Duchesse would be own root. Grown that way, she took many seasons to begin to develop into anything I'd want to have in my garden, so I traded her in on a budded version which exploded in one season and took off from there. She IS fine! Kim

    Bookmark   September 24, 2011 at 12:43AM
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jerijen(Zone 10)

The Duchesse in the San Jose Heritage Rose Garden is budded, and it's a beauty.

The budded Duchesse I have here where it is often cold and foggy (our high temperature today appears to be 68 deg) has never grown over about 3 ft. tall.

It is almost certainly virused (tho never shown symptoms) and it DOES bloom well, tho the blooms are mostly spoiled by damp.
I love the rose, but in my cool coastal garden, it's on the shovel-prune list.


    Bookmark   September 24, 2011 at 7:11PM
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aimeekitty(9-10, SW 18)

Thanks for all the advise you guys!

It seems like Duchesse d'Auerstaedt might be a good bet? I do really love tea-noisettes as a class in general. My Mme Berard in a similar situation is doing really well.
Where can I get it grafted? I only saw it listed as ownroot from Greenmantle and Vintage (possibly)

But I guess most people haven't grown Janet Inada so it's hard to say whether it would do well for me, right? It might be worth a try? Or is there some reason I should avoid it other than lack of information?

    Bookmark   September 26, 2011 at 7:55PM
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mudbird(10 soCA)

I had a very vigorous Duchesse d'Auerstaedt that I either ordered from Ashdown Roses or bought from Kim at Limberlost Roses - this was probably 8-10 years ago. It wass a GORGEOUS rose and a very vigorous grower - it was grafted, not ownroot. The only reason I no longer have it is that nearly every bloom rotted in my microclimate due to the coastal conditions - the only blooms that didn't turn into gigantic soggy tissue balls were those borne in Oct-Dec. Very sad. And I couldn't get anyone I knew to take it, so it was finally shovelpruned. i think that grown inland, it could be magnificent. It didn't have a super strong fragrance, but that was it's only flaw. The color is magnificent, buttery golden yellow. Really stunning rose!

    Bookmark   September 26, 2011 at 9:48PM
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