Azalea Herbicide

AndrewRaz(5-6)October 23, 2013

This is a pretty sad story. I thought so at least.

I think I might be confessing a crime here, or baring my conscience to the internet, but here goes.

I got an azalea from a website, a fair-sized operation that I won't mention the name of. The pictures looked great, and I had fantasies of beautiful blooms come springtime. It said keep it above 60 degrees, (which I figured meant I could keep it indoors) a bunch of people left reviews saying how happy they were. I was sold.

That was my first sin. I didn't know better. My conscience was unformed, so I can claim invincible ignorance.

The Azalea arrived in great shape. Nicely packed, beautiful and green, no blooms, but to be expected for August. The care instructions said water 3-4 times a week, so that's what I did.

That's right: 3-4 times per week. Invincible ignorance.

After a couple weeks I had to pack up and go to school. The azalea wasn't doing terribly, but it certainly wasn't as strong. A few leaves were withering, but I chalked it up to stress. I did a lot of reading and discovered you're not supposed to water an azalea like that. Way too much water. I checked, and sure enough, the soil was soggy. Leaves were drooping a bit more. There was still a fair amount of growth, but it was slowing down.

I cut back on watering. I let the soil nearly dry out between waterings. I bought sheer curtains so it could have "bright, filtered light." I kept my room warm, forgoing A/C for the health of the little azalea, put water in a humidity tray, and waited.

It was noticably stressed now: some leaves were turning brown starting from the outside or the tips, and more and more leaves were falling.

By this time, I had discovered the container soil discussions. I read and devoured them. I bought bark. I already had peat and perlite. I searched for granite and Turface: after three weeks, I found them. The Azalea wasn't accelerating, but was still doing poorly. The soil around the roots would be wet, almost soggy, while around the outside, it was dry-ish quickly. I had noticed quickly how hard it was to water the soil: it would just pool on top and run off, rather than soaking in, because it was so packed. Fungus gnats moved in. A couple small outbreaks of powdery mildew in the soil. I grabbed neem oil. Every 10 days, I would douse the soil in it (diluted).

By this time (1.5 months), the gravel on top had nearly all washed off, and I realized the soil was mostly loam, with a little bit of sand and some gravel and a few bits of bark thrown in.

More leaves were turning brown in the same pattern: from the tips down, curling as they went, or turning brown from the outside in. I googled symptoms. "Phytophthora Root Rot."

Oh no.

I got some screen. I found some skids laying around and cut them up, and made frames, and mounted the screen to them. Between classes, weekend field trips, and bunches of reading, I found time to assemble those screens and sift some bark. It was full of sapwood. I picked it out, piece by piece, vacuuming up bits of bark from the carpet in secret, with the door closed so no one would know what I was doing in my room that I have to return in good order for the next poor guy.

Finally the day came. It was the middle of October. I asked the plant manager for the key to the spigot, and a short section of hose. On Sunday, with a women's conference going on inside, I sat outside with a cart containing a big purple plastic tub (it was cheap), bags of bark, sphagnum peat, perlite, granite, shovels, buckets, pots, pliers, tape, sifting screens, a kitchen sink, and a ham and cheese sandwich. I sifted. I measured, I mixed. I plotted. I potted.

I walked back inside at least 20 times to get things from my room that I had forgotten...

After potting a couple Sanseverias in gritty mix to calm my nerves, I decided it was time.

I carefully pulled the little azalea, with a number of leaves tipped with brown now, and probably half the number of leaves it came with, out of the little bonsai pot. Half of the dirt (yes, dirt) stayed in the pot, forming a moist, compacted mass of heavy sandy mud. I groaned inwardly, and scraped it out.

Slowly, painstakingly, I picked dirt out from the roots with a bamboo skewer pilfered from the kitchen. I picked, and washed. Picked, and washed, right next to some bushes of unknown species, and a bunch of junipers that I imagined some bonsai master would be able to transform into stunning masterpieces. Or that I could probably kill in a week. Eventually, from the mass of tangled, matted roots, a picture emerged: reddish-brown root tips. Root rot.


I finished picking out mud from the roots--two hours at it, and then carefully trimmed the dead root tips, knowing it might be the last thing the poor Azalea ever felt. Then I potted it back in the same washed pot with some fresh 5-1-1 mix, watered it, and brought it back indoors to monitor it (temps in low 40's at night already).

And I waited.

It's now 4 days later. Nearly every leaf on the poor tree is dry and dying. They are turning brown from the inside out this time, usually starting along the middle vein. Not a single leaf looks untouched, although at the moment about 20% look like they could possibly survive.

I feel like I've just committed homicide. Well, herbicide. At the very least, negligent plant-slaughter. I thought I was helping! I wonder what my moral theology professor would say...

So I'm hoping to learn from this, for next time. Some questions:
In the case of root rot, should I always, or never, or just sometimes, trim the dead roots?
I thought this constituted an emergency repot: should I have waited until spring anyways?

Most importantly: is there any way I can try to save the poor azalea?

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Phytophthora root rot results from too much moisture/poor drainage plus high soil temperature. The azalea may have succumbed to this disease, but it may have been simply overwatering. (Dosing with neem oil probably did not help, either.) If the it was simple overwatering and if the plant is showing green cambium, it may well survive and put out new leaves.

A good free draining mix for azaleas and rhododendons in pots is 1/3 peat and 2/3 conifer bark put through a 3/8 inch screen. Some sap wood will do no harm. Turface and granite grit shouldn't hurt anything, but are not really necessary, either.Keep moist but not wet and be patient.

    Bookmark   October 25, 2013 at 6:12AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

akamainegrower: I'm so sorry I didn't respond sooner. That was rude. Please forgive me.

Thank you very much for responding. Yes, there was certainly overwatering, esp. at the start. It's almost a bit of a comedy of errors.

All of the leaves have shriveled, but surprisingly, most are still attached to the branches. Some of the tips are fuzzy, almost like they're hairy. It's weird.
I'm still watering it when it dries out, and removing leaves from the soil, but I'm mostly just leaving it alone now. If it lives, great. If not, I have a nice bonsai pot I can use later down the line or give to someone else.

Thanks again!

    Bookmark   November 1, 2013 at 10:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Besides overwatering, I think the plant is stressed because it has gone from an outdoor or greenhouse environment to indoors with insufficient natural lighting. I would suggest a grow light if you intend to keep the azalea indoors.

    Bookmark   December 26, 2013 at 3:06PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
rhododendron macabeanum
I am having a friend send me one of these over from...
Azalea Sunny Side Up
Anyone know of a mail order nursery that carries Aromi...
Is this a rhododendron?
Moved here in July. Still trying to figure this out....
Houzz kills Garden Web utility
Houzz has just about killed the Garden Web. We can...
Yaks for Richmond, VA?
I am considering two Rhodies for a small, shaded, urban...
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™