Potted Amaryllis from Christmas still has green leaves

jenn(SoCal 9/19)June 7, 2011

Last Christmastime, my mom gave me a potted, blooming Amaryllis. She also bought one for herself, so she was shocked when I recently told her the leaves on mine are still green and show no signs of turning yellow, while she lost the leaves on hers early this year. The bulb is still in the original plastic 6" pot and I give it water only when the soil is dry.

I'm new to Amaryllis and wondering what to do with it now. I'd like to plant it in the garden. Do I need to wait until the leaves turn yellow and can be removed?

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"Nicht wirklich"
"Actually: Not"

Greetings from Germany, and show your Mom, the following picture. Them Knight Star Lilies should be in full leaves now, in order to restore their bulbs. It is called Photosynthesis.
Provide your bulb with the best care, consistently. Then you will have nice, big, firm bulbs in autumn.

From Left to right:
"dark red heirloom" (small pot at the window)
"PapMinPic" (on blue frisbee disc saucer)
"Exotic Star"
4 seedlings of "Chico" x H.papilio (squared pot and "saucer" respectively
"MELUSINE" (the genuine)
Eucharis x amazonica
H.papilio x "Exotic Star" (balcony box)

    Bookmark   June 8, 2011 at 6:38AM
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1)Temperature range (during summer = same temperatures for AIR and Substrate) 20 TO 25 degree CELSIUS

2)Bright window. I consider SOUTH facing position, as perfect. Note that at WEST position, particularly on HIGH FLOORS, the afternoon sun, shining unrelently horizontally onto the leaves might BURN them. This does not as much apply for the common TET Hybrids with big flowers, but H.papilio can become substantially damaged in just one afternoon. Furthermore, the containers, particularly dark colored pots, can severly heat up at west windows, that this can be prevented by wrapping with Aluminium foil though.

3)Water: Exclusively lukewarm and exclusively from the bottom, into the SouCoupe. Every other day, with quantities that are readily being absorbed within some minutes.

4)Fertilizer. Perfect regimen is to administer fertilzer salts or liquid fertilizer with each watering. 0.3 g / L of added salts on every occasion is SAFE. I have excellent results using a brand that provides the relations of macronutrients of 2 : 1 : 2. Veronica READ ("Hippeastrum - The Gardeners' Amaryllis") suggests 1.4 : 1 : 2.7 and this should work very well too. American brands generally provide too much Phosphorus. For example 1 : 1 : 1 in brands of solid fertilzer, like 20;20:20

    Bookmark   June 8, 2011 at 7:42AM
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jenn(SoCal 9/19)

Thank you -- yours are beautiful. I know about photosynthesis and keeping the green leaves for next season's growth.

But -- don't the leaves eventually turn yellow, at which time I need to cut them off? I thought they'd be yellow by now, but since this is my first time growing these, I am not familiar with their growth pattern.

    Bookmark   June 8, 2011 at 12:55PM
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Others might chime in more about this, but Hippeastrum hybrids do not need to go dormant. You can force dormancy to encourage blooming but I have kept many growing straight on through the winter no problem. In fact papilio, which is a species, is harmed by dormancy and is truly evergreen. Hope that helps

    Bookmark   June 12, 2011 at 12:20AM
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I too have grown bulbs right through the winter..I have so many pots that last year I never got around to forcing dormancy on all of them (withholding water and letting the leaves turn yellow) and I grew about 10 plants with their leaves through winter..they bloomed erratically at their own timetable..usually putting up one flower spike and several months later putting up another. The bulbs will let you know if they need a rest..and certainly NOT during the summer months.. Definitely continue to feed and water and give lots of sun during the summer months and you will build the bulbs resources up for more spectacular blooms in winter. You can always withhold water in the early fall (Sept) and after 3or4 weeks the leaves will turn brown..then you have forced dormancy..and a cool period at that time of 2 months or so (after the leaves have died off) and they are ready to be watered (and re-potted if needed) to give you more flowers...

Also, during the summer you may notice that several of the outer leaves turn yellow..but they will continue to sprout new leaves from the center of the leaf clump..this is normal.. to shed older leaves and grow new ones..the plant needs to do this and just because you see outer leaves turning yellow, this does not mean that the bulb ready for a rest..keep feeding and lots of sun..

The only time all the leaves may turn yellow during the summer is if you have a NBF maggot eating your bulb..and then you have a problem..that is a whole different problem..you can look that up, there is lots of information in this forum about all of your questions..just type questions in the search box and you will learn more than you ever believed..experience is a great teacher....

Good Luck,

And Sir Hans..I keep trying to pick a few of those pots from your picture and its not working....I wonder why...


    Bookmark   June 12, 2011 at 8:43AM
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