getting rid of bees

shadowgarden(z5OH)July 4, 2003

How do I get rid of bees which are living under my siding of my house? I tried to get a bee keeper to come and get them but no one was interested, said to kill them. I tried to spray up under the siding where they go in with wasp and hornet spray (It claimed it would work on bees). I did this in the evening. After I sprayed a small committe came out to look around.

"Susie did you forget to use your underleg deoderant?"

"It's not me, I think it's Joyce."

"Don't blame me! It must be Mabel."


I did this three days running, and it does not seem to bother them at all. My husband said maybe I could freeze them out with a fire extinguisher. I must get rid of them because I am getting new siding and the siding man is allergic to bees. Please help!

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Faith_35121(7 ala)

Shadowgarden: Read about your problem with the bee's.
My Husband & son remove's around 30 to 40 hive's a season from building's.So maybe I can help.unless you can spray right on the brood you won't be able to kill them with spray.If you can the best thing to kill them with is just plain soap & water.
You can make a funnel out of screen wire place the large end over the hole,(best at night when they are all inside)you have to tape it or something to make them go out the small end & no where else.they can go out ,but not back in.The only bad thing about this is it will take about 2 week's .To remove them any faster you'll have to get someone to remove the wall & get at the brood nest & take it out that way.& that can get very costly.I know that is not what you want to hear,But that's about the only way.

    Bookmark   July 5, 2003 at 9:50AM
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I cannot believe there is a forum that allows such a discussion in regards to the removal of bees. Yes bees maybe/and are at times pest within a home or dwelling. But to come on and tell someone to spray and kill them just does not sit too well me me folks. Here in Florida it takes a registered beekeeper to authorize the extermination of a honeybee colony. The information that faith gave you is not going to do a thing to help your needs. And that is to move or get rid of the bees. Soap and water recommendation coming from someone who says they remove 30-40 hives per season is abit over exaggerated I believe also. I wish my hiving of swarms in or out of house's reached that amount each season.

What are you guys thinking about when A. You have already sprayed poison to kill some. (does not work) and no beekeeper would want to hive them then for himself. And B. You miss the main area of getting rid of bees and their return in your post of help.

There are several ways to get rid of them. GET A BEEKEEPER AND NOT AN EXTERMINATOR...........(When was the last time you saw a natural swarm and hive in the woods....think on that for abit) Most any qualified beekeeper is going to tell you the MOST IMPORTANT THING TO GET RID OF BEES IN A DWELLING IS THE REMOVAL OF THE HONEY AND HONEYCOMB ITSELF. The brood and queen next and the workers and field bees next. Sorry but just the spraying of a poision does not do it. If just the bees are killed off or year you can count on a new swarm coming in........reason........You left the wax and honey inside.......and they find it......EVERYTHING MUST BE REMOVED........ALL OF IT......TO GET RID OF THE BEES.

This can be time consuming and expensive.........but you save the bees for another season......!!

There are ways to remove bees from within walls and buildings..........Yes there are times that they must be exteriminated but that is really seldom.......

Any oldtimer beekeeper or a quality bee keeper will have bait hives or Pheremones to intice the bees out. This can be done by placing the bait hive outside and upto the wall where they come and go. Use a screen in which the bees must pass through the hive to get on through. In time the bees will start building within the hive and abandon the wall. Remove the hive and bees and then extract all remaining honeycomb and wax from interior walls. If any wax is left they will return. They know where their kind has been before.

Go around your homes checking for unchaulked areas that need chaulking. Close up any open area's around fireplace's and eve's of your home. Do a good overall check of area's of your home or building to insure that you are not inviting this problem on yourself. Trailors are the worst and most frequent place for them to occupy.

Just call someone who keeps bees. Check for local clubs. Call your local Ag. Center. Beekeepers will often come out and take them out for free........contract often stipulate that removal of any building materials will be replaced by owner of the property.

You say you are getting siding.............WHAT BETTER TIME TO REMOVE THEM.......But to come into a forum on bees and beekeeping and start talking about using insecticides and soap and water and this and that...............well.......better yet..............Just call a qualified and honest beekeeper.............we are more often then not...........more than happy to help.....and without killing them off. They all ready have enough natural pest as it is...........People being the worst...........Thanks for your time..........My first and last post to this group forum......

    Bookmark   July 6, 2003 at 6:19PM
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Faith_35121(7 ala)

Nwflabeeguy: The 30-40 hives was not exaggerated,Last year they received 93 call's,but did'nt do them all. and as far as the killing bee's that is the LAST thing they want to do.they go to ever measure's to save the bees,But sometime there is no other way.
I think last year they killed 1 swarm.I'll agree that the only way is to remove the wall & get the far as the bait hives I've never seen it work.the queen is not going to leave the brood for any bait.
If you was a great beekeeper that you say you are you would know that.and I think if you would re-read my post you'll see that I stated the only way to kill them was to get to the brood,so what I was trying to say(did'nt come out right) was you have to get to the brood & If you do why not remove it?
also shadowgarden stated they they called beekeeper's & they was not interested (remember).

    Bookmark   July 6, 2003 at 7:58PM
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I contacted 4 different places including state beekeepers assn, extention agent, some one listed as a beekeeper, and someone I knew who had bees and all said get an exterminator. I hate to do it but I have no other option I know of. I believe beeguy is speaking out of turn.

    Bookmark   July 6, 2003 at 9:24PM
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ccrb1(z5 IND)

Shadowgarden, you mentioned you had tried several options already. Perhaps if you're not willing to give up yet, trying a few other beekeepers might work. I get calls that other beekeepers have turned down.

    Bookmark   July 6, 2003 at 11:36PM
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Do you know someone who might do it?

    Bookmark   July 7, 2003 at 8:13AM
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I can tell you why no beekeeper is interested.I keep them for a living,and get several calls a year like this.I already have all the bees I need and there is incentive to take the time to go do carpentry on someones wall.I have done this for friends but it is a real pain and I cant really afford the time.My personal feeling is they should be eradicated with soapy water(not insecticide)as they act as reservoirs of mites that MY bees will probably rob out and become infested with.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2003 at 11:34AM
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Where in Ohio are you? Anywhere near Lima?

Here I have found that few exterminators want to deal with honeybees. Most wont' touch them, several will kill them, but would rather not, and one simply had a kill everything additude.

Many beekeepers don't want to deal with it because it's hard work that people often don't want to pay for or unwilling to pay reasonably, yet they will shell out hundreds for an exterminator. And dealing with unhappy owners who are faced with paying to have a hole torn in their house isn't fun. Plus, it can be very hazardous. Tearing into a wall with electrical wires, gas lines, etc., from the top of a 30 foot ladder with a bee in your veil is no walk in the park.

Many homeowners expect a finished job. The beekeepers job is to remove the bees with as little damage as possible in the allowable time frame, without killing the bees, if possible. They are professionals and should be treated as such. Often they are not professioals at carpentry, siding, etc. and should not be expected to fix any necessary damage.

I wish all removals were as easy as the last one I did. It was a new hive, only 2 weeks old in a tree at ground level. But it still took 4-5 hours and two trips to remove them (not damaging the tree). The owner was overjoyed, was happy to pay, and even sent a nice thank you card. (The previous year when they had a swarm they were unable to find anyone to take care of them, exterminator, beekeeper or otherwise. The ag. extension office simply said to kill them.)

When doing a removal I always present the owner with all the options available and their good and bad points, including killing the bees. THough killing is rarely the best option because of the difficulty getting all of them, and it leave behind honey and dead brood to rot and attract other pests.

    Bookmark   July 11, 2003 at 1:07PM
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Hi everyone,

I'm writing from Istanbul, Turkey. Does anyone know the way of getting rid of the bees without killing them and harming the nature? I heard there was some ultrasound thing that keep the bees away but couldn't find a thing when I searched the net, because I don't know the exact name.

I would appreciate if someone can help me.


    Bookmark   September 13, 2003 at 6:05AM
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cohokeith(6 / SE Michigan)

What kind of bees are they? Many people call wasps, hornets, etc. bees. If they are wasps, I will not shed any tears on their demise, provided it's the only recourse.


    Bookmark   September 13, 2003 at 1:36PM
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I'm so excited! I was searching the web the other day trying to find a way to get rid of the honey bees that have made a home in the wall on the outside of my home (how dare they!). Not wanting to spend $200 for a professaional, one did suggest to me to go to Home Depot and purchase Seven dust.......after a trip to HD yesterday I returned home with Sevin-5 dust and spray (the spray is new and was recommended since I would have to penetrate a crevice on the side of my home). Last night after putting on my bee suit (my motorcycle jacket, goggles, chaps, black scarf to cover my face, long leather gloves, leather boots) I hoped that the neighbors would not see me, as they would have certainly called the police to report a burglar - I was a sight to be seen - in an embarassing way. But hey, I didn't want to get stung and felt as though the bees were waiting for me. The spray that I attached to my hose ended up coming apart and water was spraying out everywhere - so I abandoned the spray idea, grabbed the dust with my rubber gloved hands and threw the dust onto the area where the bees were existing and entering the wall of my home. I'm happy to report at 11:00 a.m. I have no bees swarming that area and numerous dead on my front porch (I think they wanted to come in the house and attach me :)

My fear is that they will now go elsewhere around my house, but so far I like the effects of the $6 bag of dust!

    Bookmark   September 23, 2003 at 11:07AM
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How does the dust take care of the many pounds of honey that are in the wall that is sure to attract other pests and more bees? (Assuming they were honeybees in the first place).

    Bookmark   September 23, 2003 at 12:07PM
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MsMoody(Zone4 NH)

This thread is depressing.

    Bookmark   September 23, 2003 at 6:26PM
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And the neighborhood Bees that find the honey [which they will] will also DIE so you are still left with all that honey in the walls contamanited with Sevin Dust. Would have been better to maintain your home well so the Bees didn't have a place to get in in the first place. Just my thoughts.

    Bookmark   September 23, 2003 at 9:45PM
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I agree with the comments about this being a difficult job that is not really worth it for most beekeepers.
I do believe that the bees could be eradicated by repeated sprayings, and I'd use the hornet/wasp spray.
The problem of comb and honey in the wall can be solved after eradication by opening the wall afterward and tearing out the combs.
Didn't the original poster state that she is going to have new siding installed? So, kill the bees, open the siding, clean the area out, and when new siding is installed, be sure that there are no little holes where bees can get in again. Because bees will be attracted by the odor and will enter again if they possibly can.
And I'm sorry for those who don't like the thought of killing the bees, but sometimes, this is the best solution to this problem. Putting up a hive to attract the bees? It doesn't work!

    Bookmark   September 24, 2003 at 11:33PM
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qbirdy(z4/5 Central NY)

We had trouble with honeybees in our house several times, we made excluders and kept them out. We didn't want to kill them but have had to. Our house is over 100 years old and bees were getting into the living areas all over. Called beekeepers, but they didn't want to get up to them so we had to tear them out ourselves. Its too bad, the bees are only doing what bees do. We tried bait hives but it didn't work. After the bees were entirely out we had to cover over the holes. A lot of years we have swarms come to the house, we can only guess they smell these old hives even though they have been long abandoned. We are looking to keep bees now, and maybe if there are active hives we can relocate any that decide to move in with us! Bees are great, and we hate to kill them un nessicarily

    Bookmark   April 27, 2004 at 8:20PM
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bambooo(6 CT USA)

Nothing in beekeeping pisses me off more than being called to a feral colony or a swarm after some idiot has sprayed it with pesticide.
The yahoos who can't tell a bee from a wasp don't even come close.

    Bookmark   April 27, 2004 at 9:43PM
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TRLambert(4/5 Maine)

You know, maybe if we beekeepers spent more time educating the "general non-beekeeping public" about honeybees we would have more success and agreement about how to handle this problem.

I can't remember the last time I saw an article in the local paper about the benefits of beekeeping or how to handle problems. It's almost a little embarrasing that the only people who know about the benefits of bees are us beekeepers and/or serious gardeners. Maybe if we concentrated some on getting the occassional "nice to know" articles out we could let the public know what honeybees look like and how to handle problems with bees in homes. A set-up at the county fair to sell your honey isn't the only way to educate the public. How about taking an observation hive to a grade school. . . or calling a reporter to do "a day in the life" story?

I don't think arguing about it on a forum where (mostly) only beekeepers come is going to accomplish this.

Here's another thought for you: Wasps and hornets may not be great polinators, but they do provide a great service by taking care of garden pests naturally. Yet I haven't heard one person on this forum complain about using pesticides on them. I, personally, always leave a couple of hornet and/or wasp nests around my house (and I have two young children). Diversity is great.

In response to Bambooo: Maybe if you spent some time "getting the word out", more "Yahoos" would be able to identify a honeybee and not have to resort to using pesticides. Not everyone has the desire to be a beekeeper or become an expert on identifying honeybees. But the lack of knowledge of the many varieties of bees, hornets and wasps is no reason to write these folks off as ignorant. We should take it upon ourselves to educate others.

And before anyone comes back cursing me out, take note: I take every opportunity to educate everyone around me (at work, the kid's school, etc). . . and I mean I talk to everyone about it. I've even invited people over to view my hives that say they are deathly afraid of bees. After a visit, they often want to come back during harvest time to help out. I do everything I can to educate people. I even put my name on local newsletters and company postings so everyone knows they have a reference if they need some answers. I may not know everything about keeping bees, but I do know one of the most important things we can do is let others know their importance.

    Bookmark   May 3, 2004 at 2:01PM
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i found a bee keeper in north carolina that removes bee's from houses....
i had 2 hives in the eve's of my house... one on each side..
he has a bucket truch and all the equiptment to remove all the honey and wax and bee's.
he removed the boards and put them back... it took him 4 hours to remove both hives and replace the boxing.
he charged me $250. and had to drive 60 miles to get here. I am very satisfied with his work...
it took me over a year to find someone to do the job..
he lives in rocky mount north carolina..
his name is Joe and can be reached at 252-908-1308
if you have any questions pleas feel free to e-mail me.

steve c.. goldsboro North Carolina

    Bookmark   May 10, 2004 at 10:02AM
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I'm so glad I found this thread. I just moved in to a house in Brooklyn and after a week saw a few bees near the roof near a dormer window. After the exterminator came several times they opened up the wall and pulled out 5 hives. It was like the discover y channel and fear factor all rolled into one. Now there is plastic over the 5 foot by 1 foot hole and honey is dripping in. My contractor is coming over to give me an estimate to clean it out and cover it up. Is it possible to clean it out? Is honey dripping down the sides of my new Old house? Help!

    Bookmark   July 1, 2004 at 11:51AM
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Fortunately several of the exterminators in my area realize they can't handle bees properly. So they refer them to a beekeeper who can remove the bees safely (usually in one trip) and without leaving a sticky mess to clean up (and save the bees to boot). You'll still have to get a contractor to close the hole up, but won't have the mess to deal with (and it's certainly no fear factor.)

I suspect they pulled out 5 combs. A 5x1 foot opening doesn't sound like more than one hive to me. I hope you didn't pay to much for the mess.


    Bookmark   July 1, 2004 at 12:48PM
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I think I've licked my bee "problem"

Growing up on a farm, we had half a dozen bee hives that a local bee keeper took care of. However, bees less than 10' from my door in suburban Houston isn't good. So from some advice here and elsewhere I used Sevin-10, some 1/4" tubing and started with an air compressor (100 psi is way too much) and end up using compressed air. Just made a little funnel, dumped in about 1/4 cup sevin into the tubing, duct-taped the compressed air straw to the tubing, and from about 6' away I pumped their entryway full of sevin. This was at 10PM last night. About midnite they were humming like mad and I was a little worried they'd find a way in through the attic somehow. Lucked out and tonite I pumped in two doses of sevin and only see a dozen or so buzzing around. I've vacuumed up most of the dead bees (guessing 100-200), I'll get the rest tomorrow and this weekend I'll see just what kind of hive they had going.

    Bookmark   July 18, 2004 at 10:41PM
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If they haven't been there too long (a couple weeks) then there likely isn't too much honey or brood, though you could have a couple of pounds of dead bees (a typical swarm contains 10,000-20,000 bees, hives can be 3 times that). Remove them if you can, they will rot and stink just like a couple of dead rats would in your wall.

If they have been there longer you will likely have several pounds of honey to remove. How much depends on how many bees there were and how long they have been there as well as the season. In any case seal the wax and honey in plastic bags when you trash it to avoid poisoning dogs, cats or other wildlife.

    Bookmark   July 19, 2004 at 12:46PM
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KILLING BEES!!!!!!!!!!!!I enjoy the challange of extractions and personial feel that NO person in their right mind would kill honey bees. The hive, honey left would pose a bigger problem and cost more to clean up than doing it right----All wax and honey need to be removed, when I'm finished w/a job I tell the person to leave the area open for a few days to allow any workers to disapate and then to wash the area w/a strong soapy or bleach mixture to remove any lingering pherimone and also to scrape out as much wax as possiable.
KILLING BEES---------NO WAY!!!!!!
In alot of states it is against the law, and exterminators know that.

    Bookmark   July 26, 2004 at 4:23PM
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It's not against the law in any state I know of. That is simply a wifes tale. In some cases it may be the only good option, (though I have not run into a case where I could use other methods) And better methods than poison can be used when killing them is neccesary so as not to contaminate the wax/honey so bees can be used to clean up the mess and rob out the honey to minimize structural damage when necessary.

jprae129's exterminator should be shot though. They really ought be be able to identify most pests on sight, not after several trips.

    Bookmark   July 27, 2004 at 12:17PM
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We found bees coming from a hole in the ground next to a tree. Any ideas on moving them without getting stung?

    Bookmark   July 27, 2004 at 8:51PM
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They are likely bumblebees. I know of no good way to relocate them. However, if left alone they normally pose no problem. They do not raise huge populations of bees like honeybees do and they will die off in the fall. Only queens raised this year will survive until the spring, and they will chose new nesting locations.

    Bookmark   July 27, 2004 at 9:09PM
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beemantn(West TN)

Spray yourself all over with OFF. Wrap some netting around your head. Go out about an hour after dark and tear off the siding. Once you get the siding off, you can look the next morning and determine where they are entering the wall. By the way, they ARE in the wall not the siding, I'm sure. By doing this at night they are less likely to lift off the brood and come after you. Unless you want more trouble in the future with honey dripping and other bees or pests coming to find the honey, by all means, tear out the wall and remove ALL of the brood and comb. Otherwise, killing the bees is useless. If you can do this without killing the bees, seal it back up and sprinkle some Sevin in the hole. The bees will find a new place to live unless you left honey in the wall. Sorry, it really isn't any easier. There are no shortcuts to doing it right regardless of what anyone says.

It may be beneficial to order yourself a smoker from or If you do this, smoke them real well in 5 minute intervals about 3 times. What happens is that the smoke will excite them and they will gorge themselves on honey. When they're full of honey they cannot sting you. Also, you can use the smoke to move them around. But, make sure you have a good pair of leather gloves and tape up your sleaves and pant legs with duct tape. Bees crawl at night:)

By the way, Tim, it is illegal to kill bees in Illinois and Tennessee. I think it is illegal in Kentucky but I'm not sure. However, the reality is that this is a virtually unenforceable law....sadly.

    Bookmark   August 5, 2004 at 2:46AM
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I've seen the statement that it's illegal to kill honeybees from several people, but haven't seen any references to a specific law to date. (Except for killing someone else's honeybees, which obviously is illegal). I have found references from several state departments of agriculture and even the US Department of Agriculture giving instructions how to kill honeybees.

For example: The University of Tennessee Agricultural Extention Service puts out a publication on what to do when you get bees in the wall. And while they do not recommend killing bees in most circumstances they specifically state "It is not unlawful to destroy honey bees, although many pest control companies tell homeowners they cannot kill honey bees according to the law."

Can you point me to any Tennessee law that states otherwise?

    Bookmark   August 5, 2004 at 1:59PM
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ccrb1(z5 IND)

This is a really good point and I'd like to get to the bottom of it. The issue is complicated because an exterminator might kill a colony and leave poisoned honey in the wall, which a nearby beekeeper's hive of bees might raid and die as a result.

I believe I've also heard that only a registered beekeeper can kill a colony, and I doubt its veracity as well.

As a beekeeper, I've been called upon to kill a colony in a downed tree that was stinging everyone. I tried to rescue the colony could not find the queen, and ended up killing them with detergent and water.

And I have an outstanding call to go about 60 miles from here and kill bees at head level in a tree. Again, they're stinging neighbors.

I think the assumptions are that the poisons that exterminators or pesticide applicators would be unwise for honeybees. And that a beekeeper will know how to kill or remove an unwanted colony without causing any collateral damage.

Frankly, I'm glad exterminators refuse the jobs.

    Bookmark   August 5, 2004 at 9:52PM
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Exterminators typically are ill suited to do the job right. I knew of several that simply state that it is illegal, I think to get the person to go away when they didn't know who to refer them to. In part there may be some truth in what they say. They may not keep around any of the pesticides labeled for honey bees, and as such it would be illegal to kill bees with the pesticides they do have (ie. it is illegal to use pesticides in a manner inconsistent with the lable).

I am also glad at least a couple in the area refer then to me or other beekeepers. Fortunately I've never had to kill any hives yet, though I'm sure a I'll run into a situation eventually that it is the only option. Even then there is soapy water, suffocation, overheating and short acting poisons available that won't contaminate the honey. In inaccesable locations I've been able to vacate most of the bees so I could vacuum them up by using bee-go in a smoker. I think the TX department of Ag has a document on bee removal that lists appropriate pestisides when other methods can't be used.

I have run into a couple cases like the one you describe. Hive in a tree that's been there for quite a while so the owner leaves it alone, then at some point they get aggressive. I can't be positive but it sound much like a hive that has gone queenless. It may be a temporary condition, but may not.

The sad thing I've run into that some people would rather pay an exterminator to kill them than for me to remove them properly. I had one person call this summer that sounded shocked that I wouldn't drive two hours (one way) and spend another couple hours extracting bees from a tree for the privilage for getting a buch of bees that likely won't have a queen, may be diseased, and I will certainly have to feed if they stand a chance to get strong enough to last the winter.

    Bookmark   August 5, 2004 at 11:02PM
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By federal law (quoting from the NC Ag extention) honey bees are protected to the extent that "It is illegal to do anything on your property to kill bees foraging from managed hives." But you can kill your own bees or bees in your wall, etc.

So, It would be illegal to leave poisoned honey accessable to foraging bees. (And I'd suspect it would also be illegal to leave the poisoned honey accessable to pets and wild animals as well). I do recall seeing an pesticide that breaks down quickly recommended in one of the documents so that the honey could be robbed out after several days without harm to other bees. (I don't recall which document it was, though I probably could find it if anyone really wanted to know).

    Bookmark   August 5, 2004 at 11:24PM
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Alarm_Buzzer(Canada Pacific)

to Rede Z6 -
"Would have been better to maintain your
home well so the Bees didn't have a place to get in in the first
I'm not sure this is a helpful remark. What's done is done, the person needs help, not criticism. I think they sorta feel upset enough, don't you?

    Bookmark   August 6, 2004 at 3:14AM
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Maintenance rarely has much to do with it. Any void about 1 cubic foot in area that the bees can get into could serve as an ideal location for a home. They only need about a 1/4" hole to get in. You can pretty much find a suitable location in any home be it in a crawl space, attic, wall, or elsewhere.

Older homes tend to be more suseptable I've found due to the contruction methods and materials used, not lack of maintenance. (ie. real wood boards used for sheathing & roofing with the necessary gaps for expansion and contraction between them, blown in insulation in the walls, etc.) Though even new methods and materials have pitfalls. For example: Vinyl siding often has small gaps around the edges and window protected by trim though the bees can often get past it. And while the space under the siding isn't enough to build a hive, it does allow the bees to walk the full length of the wall to a suitable location if there is one. I'm removing one hive now by the cone method and discovered last night that the bees found no less than 4 other locations to enter the wall and avoid the cone. All were at edges of the vinyl siding.

Another common practice I've seen (in both old and new construction) is to screen attic vents with 1/4" hardware cloth. It's adequate to keep out birds, bats and chipmunks, etc. But does nothing for bees and wasps. 1/8" hardware cloth would be needed, but I'm surprised it's not carried by most hardware stores that I have found.

There is one company out of Florida I've seen that offers bee proofing services. I don't know how they go about it or what it costs.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2004 at 10:37AM
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I also have a problem with bees. I just moved to AZ and every morning and evening there must be 60 to 100 bees drinking from my pool and the waterfall feature thats attached. They are not agressive but my kids will not go near the pool now. I will not kill them. Any ideas on how to move them along. Some of my neighbors are experiencing the same.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2004 at 6:59PM
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The bees have simply found the pool a good reliable source for water. They tend to like dirty or impure water such as mud puddles and pools with their chemicals over clean pure water, perhaps because it contains trace minerals they need.

Providing another reliable source of water may help with some floats (pieces of wood)they can land on, though it's tough to make them forget the source (your pool) they already found.

Foraging bees are not aggressive and shouldn't be a real risk.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2004 at 10:03PM
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i have a fish pond with a few waterfalls and recently i've noticed a large amount of bees drinking the water at rock edges. i'm concerned that they will eventually make a nest in my home, does anyone know how i can deter the bees from the pond area, and do i need to be concerned about them nesting somewhere in my home? i think these are honeybees, but i'm not sure, they're small and somewhat of a tannish gold coloring. any help would be appreciated.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2004 at 11:10AM
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ccrb1(z5 IND)

Leave them alone. They already have a home.

    Bookmark   August 7, 2004 at 4:48PM
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It sounds like honeybees by the description of the behavior. Though it can be difficult to identify them by color and/or stripes because they can vary significantly by breed from nearly solid black, to striped to golden/yellow in color.

It is fairly common this time of year, especially when it is hotter out, to see bees drinking from pools, puddles, etc. There presence simly indicates there is a hive withing flying distance or closer, likely within a mile. They use the water both for drinking and for cooling of the hive by evaporation. They pose no real risk as foraging bees are not aggressive.

It is also no indication they they find your home a good location for a new home. If the bees were looking at your house as a suitable home a few bees from the hive about to swarm (or from the swarm that already left the hive), would be investigating every crack and hole around your house for a suitable opening, and more importantly a good size cavity (1 cubic foot or so.) Bees drinking from a pool, foraging on flower, etc. are not looking for a new home.

It is terribly difficult to make bees leave a water source once they find one they like. There is nothing I know of that can be put in the water that will repel them. In fact, they often prefer contaminated water - treated pool water, septic run off, etc. You may have some luck if you were to provide a reliable water source that is better and/or closer to their hive, though my results have been poor unless the original water source was removed for a period (or covered, etc.)

Ultimately there is nothing you can do to the bees to make them any less likely to move into your house sometime in the future. Bees don't base their decision where to take up residence based on the water or flowers in your yard, or how many times you sent the dog after them :) After all, they can fly up to 4-5 miles looking for food ans water. When looking for a home they are looking for a good hollow space big enough for a hive. They will not create the hollow themselves, they just find an existing one. The only thing you can really do is make your home a less suitable home for the bees. Screen off attic and crawl space vents with 1/8" hardware cloth, Insulate your walls so there isn't space for a hive (older homes with blown in insulation tends to sag leaving a space at the top), seal obvious crack and joints with caulk, etc. And don't forget the garage wall, walls of unheated garages may not be insulated making a great home for bees.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2004 at 3:11PM
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Bruce_B(z9b N.CA)

My neighbor (no really..) has honeybees in his chimney. They arent entering at the top but rather through a little hole on the side (another problem in itself). He has a spark arrester that I think a bee could get through but they never go in that way. The bees are at times entering the house because even with the flue closed theres enough space for a bee to pass. The hive is about halfway down and he cant find either an exterminator or a beekeeper that will deal with it.

Were wondering if having a small, smokey fire is a good idea to make them leave? Lots more smoke than fire. I read somewhere here the bees will eat the honey and leave if they think theyre about to be toasted. Will this work or is it a very bad idea? If it's a bad idea another suggestion would be greatly appreciated. TIA

    Bookmark   August 21, 2004 at 6:30AM
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ccrb1(z5 IND)

If there's brood in the nest, they won't leave, even with heavy smoke.

    Bookmark   August 21, 2004 at 10:32PM
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TRLambert(4/5 Maine)

Also, the last thing you want to do is potentially melt a couple hundred pounds of wax and honey down the chimney -- you'll never get it out!

This is a tough one to fix. . . I don't have any suggestions!

    Bookmark   August 23, 2004 at 3:17PM
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Onion(z9b/15 Nor Cal)

Bruce_B, sorry I can't help you. But I did want to thank TRLambert and Tarheit for all the info they're providing. It's really generous of them to share what they know in such a helpful tone.


    Bookmark   September 2, 2004 at 7:48PM
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stardust(5b NE Ohio)

Is Ohio a bed place for rougue bees this year or what? I have come to this forum because I am experiencing a honey bee (yes, I'm a 'dirt farmer' as my husbanc refers to me and I know what a honey bee looks like) problem. Two days ago a swarm showed up at our home and decided that the chimney for our wood burning firplace looked like a good place to camp. Fortunately my husbanc was home when they arrived and built a small smokey fire in the woodburner and they quickly left the chimey and lit in the branches of a close oak tree. Stayed there all night. In the morning they were just thinking of stirring. Not giving it another thought, we both went to work. They had all day to move about at will ... and certainly did. By 3:00 P.M. when I arrived home they were back in the chimney. Apparentyly pretty well established because when I tried the fire thing it didn't work so well.

To shorten the story, on day two and a half we now have had a fire burning in the wood burner for 24 straight hours, we have a bunch of the bees in the oak tree, some on the exterior side of the chimney and some entering the house. I'm guessing we are getting them inside because they have gotten in between the wood burning insert and the old fireplace wall itself. I'm sitting with the front door standing wide open on the front of the house so the ones that get into the room can escape from the house (so I don't have to kill them), smoke pouring from my fireplace chimney and waiting with my breath held while I play phone tag with a beekeeper that hasn't left any indication in his messages that he is actually interested in this job.

Hubby is cheap. He has the first dollar he ever made ... BUT, he WILL pay to have these removed (if possible) to keep from killing them. I'm well aware that there are issues with taking on new or stray bees. I'm no beekeeper but I am an avid gardener (and dirt farmer). I wouldn never harm a honey bee if I could help it. BUT, I draw the line at sharing my livingroom with them for a movie.

Shadowgarden - since this IS YOUR thread, I would be more than glad to give you this guys number if you are anywhere in my area, IF you still need it. I'm thinking by the age of this thread you may not. If you found someone, I'd love to have that info as well just in case I can't make connections with this man.

These little critters have only been here two days and I'm sure there is no comb or colonizing set up or establishment of residence yet. I just don't want them to reside indoor with me.



PS - I hope there is more help to be found here than arguing among beekeepers. That is why I turned to this forum.

    Bookmark   September 4, 2004 at 3:12PM
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ccrb1(z5 IND)

removing bees from a chimney is more than I could handle. I've removed them from walls, but I'd simply give up on this and take them out with a detergent foam and cleaning brush.

    Bookmark   September 5, 2004 at 12:51AM
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Very concerned about lots of bees I'm seeing out a b/r window. They are either in a tree or right on the house from what I can see. They have been there for weeks. ( after a good storm it seemed there were tons of them in view of the dripping rainwater when peeking out of the window). At this point I am not sure of the exact location as I'm very nervous about getting near due to possible allergies and am ill at this time. Wonder if there is anyone in the 480 area code (Tempe) area that might have some insight about who to call to check it out.
Anyone with any suggestions and insight let me know.
Since I'm in a warm climate will the bees be around all year or do they leave in the Fall like in other locations.

Thank you anyone that might answer

Shari in Az.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2004 at 1:15PM
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ccrb1(z5 IND)

You probably only need to post this message once. Suggest you contact your county extension office.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2004 at 11:24PM
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Someone else already said it. Depressing thread. Having been raised in the country, I have never understood the first response that most people have to insects and other creatures they see is how to kill it. I had a hive of honeybees given to me as a gift from my father when I was a teen and I thoroughly enjoyed them, after I left home my father kept up with the hive until he no longer could. I never wore protective clothing when I dealt with my hive, they knew who I was and seldom stung me, and when they did it was my fault, not theirs.

Bees and other insects and animals can smell the subtle difference of pheremones in the sweat of humans and only usually attack for sure when they smell the pheremone released in the sweat when one is fearful/angry.

I currently have a neighbor down the block with the same "problem". Honeybees in his wall. The sad part is, had I not told him and his girlfriend, they would probably have remained blissfully ignorant. After I did tell him, he decided to do exactly what these other people are doing and suggesting. If they built in MY wall, I would take out enough sheetrock to install a glass window and enjoy the hell out of them. Go figure.

    Bookmark   September 24, 2004 at 9:59PM
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Hi...I have smaller versions of carpenter bees (fuzzy yellow and black)that live under my house. I work in my yard alot and I get frequent hovering fly-bys (I know they're only curious about me). Since I AM ALLERGIC to bee stings and I don't want to kill them, is there something I can do to persuade tham to move away?

    Bookmark   February 25, 2007 at 10:04AM
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bandit_tx(z7-8 TX)

If you are truly allergic I assume you are never more than 10 feet from an Epipen? Most people that claim to be allergic have no idea what that really means. People that are really allergic carry Epi's everywhere because a sting will kill them in minutes. There is very little anyone in Texas can do to prevent being exposed to stinging insects including bumble bee, honey bees, red wasps, yellow jackets, hornets, and fire ants. Most people that are truly allergic would be cautious about yard work for that reason.

    Bookmark   March 8, 2007 at 5:13PM
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I live in KY and I have carpenter bees in both sides of my house, my house is old and they have been there for a long time. They are starting to get aggressive when we go out the door they dive bomb our heads now, and I have 5 kids even though we haven't gotten stung yet I know it's just a matter of time before we do. I don't have the money right now to have someone come remove them and I've used the sprays in the past and they didn't work. This string of responses have me confused with everyone going back and forth. I need to know what I can do on my own that won't cost much of anything. Any help would be VERY much appreciated.


    Bookmark   May 17, 2007 at 11:18AM
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txbeeguy(z8 TX)

See the 'Control' section of this write-up:

Best of luck.

Here is a link that might be useful: Carpenter bee control from UK

    Bookmark   May 17, 2007 at 4:20PM
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When wasps were making little starter nests in openings in my RV, I bought some wasp repellant and sprayed it in the holes periodically. They decided to go elsewhere, so it worked without killing them.

I noticed, though, that while the wasps were around there were no flies.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2007 at 3:33AM
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The cheapest way to kill bees---> $1.19 a pack of fly catcher kill 300 bees

After I spend about $50 with all kind sprays and bee catcher things and I spend every weekend worked hard seal their homes, the bees keep comming back and making new homes under my desk inside the brick post. I decide to try something new-- fly catcher! It really worked! a package of 4 sticky fly catcher cost $1.19 from Home Depot (or $1.98 from Lows) I hanging them near bee nest. before I finish hanging the catch strips, it already catch 30 of them in a minute! I have a big bucket of water under it. to catch them when they drop down. I can see bees like rain drop down to the bucket. one day killed about 300 of them. I changed 4 strips next day, keep catching rest of them. Of course this cannot totally get rid of them, but who cares about left 3 smart bees still alive. BTW, I used put lot clothing on and cover my face when the first day working on killing bees, but I found out they don't bother me at all. I do feel guilty killing them. However, if someone comes to my property without ask me, I have right to kill him, right? same to bees, I still don't know what kind bees I killed, sorry.

    Bookmark   July 16, 2007 at 2:58PM
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I too have a problem with ground bees. We just moved into a home and the cement in front of our garage door has some cracks in it and there are bees living in the cracks. How do I get rid of the honey comb if they are under cement?
We cannot offord to dig up the driveway:)

    Bookmark   July 20, 2007 at 1:19PM
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backyardmama(North Texas)

To get rid of bumble bees or any other bee living in the ground spray/pour orange oil into the entry/exit holes. We had a large swarm near the driveway several years ago and 1 half gallon bottle from the garden center was all that was needed. It is an evironmentally safe product.

    Bookmark   July 23, 2007 at 11:19PM
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Recently I was showing my father my perennial and shrub garden, it was about 7:30 pm. I walked around one shrub, when all of a sudden I felt intense pain on my arm and legs. There were yellow jackets/hornets on me and my clothes. I slapped them off and went into the house. There were three more bees in my clothes, one stung my chest. The following day at dusk I sprayed the nest with a can of wasp/hornet spray. The next day I put two bricks on top of the hole where the bees made a nest into the ground. Is there anything else I should do? i am scared after reading the other notations that the bees may come back and make a new nest next year.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2007 at 12:33PM
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yellowjackets are showing up at my picturewindow inside for the last five days cannot find out where they are coming from ther are no more than three or four a day so far and they seem to be young ones

    Bookmark   August 7, 2007 at 3:24PM
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I've been feeding the honeybees. I had a couple of hummingbird feeders, one of which was cracked near the bottom. One late afternoon day I went out to sit on the deck,I discovered the broken feeder covered with honeybees. I was so enthralled watching them. They emptied the full feeder in 2 days. Am I asking for trouble? I don't know where they came from. I live in a development, but my house backs up to forest. I would like to continue feeding them but from a safer distance than on my deck. Should I move the feeder to the woods in the evening? Will they be able to find it? I thought there was a severe decline in the number of honeybees, and I don't want to kill them.

    Bookmark   August 14, 2007 at 1:05PM
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dangar, try doing a google search on yellow jackets. I'm not sure if they make use of an existing cavity in the ground or start from scratch. I had the same situation in a yard where I was doing work. I flooded the hole with a hose, then filled in with some dirt. It's bee three years and there haven't been any more in that location.
Rosie, It should be okay to feed the bees. Some beekeepers place a bucket of sugar syrup in a bee yard and put some straw on top so the bees have something to land on and don't fall in and drown. The only thing I might wonder about depending on where you live is being visited by a bear.

    Bookmark   August 14, 2007 at 8:19PM
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Newbie here. Located in southern oregon on 12 acres mostly irrigated pasture.

I have honey bees in the wall of a shed that I would like to relocate. They are about four feet off the ground. I could remove three or four boards to expose the hive.

I would like to keep this hive on the property. Can someone provide detailed step by step instructions for relocating this hive? With materials and supplys needed.

Thanks Mark

    Bookmark   August 25, 2007 at 1:25PM
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Mark,This is going to be long. First off you'll have your work cut out for you(pun accidently intended) What you would be doing is called a "cutout" Have you ever had bees before? I think that my main concern at this time is that we are going into september, so it's kind of borderline to put some bees in a hive. You can ask other opinions, but I think it might be better to let them overwinter and if they survive, remove them in the spring. It may be best to have someone experienced do the job and ask if you can assist them. It's one thing watching honey bees going in and out of a hole. It's another thing to have several thousand bees buzzing around trying to find an opening in your suit and head butting your veil, and trying and sometimes succeeding in stinging through your gloves and clothing. It may not be the best first experience with bees. I know from being 20 ft up on a ladder that you have to keep your cool no matter what happens.Either way, here is some basic stuff you'd need and an idea of how to do it. First of all, You'll need a place to put them. Depending on the size of the hive, which has some relation to how long they've been there, this may be a full 10 frame hive body or it could be a five frame "nuc" which is just a smaller box to put bees in. Besides any carpentry tools, You will need some wooden frames that are empty, and possibly some with "foundation" You'll need string,rubber bands, and a long bladed knife. You will need a veil, a smoker and smoker fuel (which can be sawdust), and protective clothing, loose fitting light colored or white pants (I wear painters pants)shirt and gloves. A "bee-vac" is also one of the handiest tools to have for a cutout, although it's not absolutely necessary. A helper comes in very handy when it comes to tying in comb.First off, try to determine how big the nest is and where entrances are. Have your smoker going good, suit up. You can use rubber bands around you cuffs to keep the bees from crawling up your pants legs. Smoke the entrances. On the last cutout we did the bees were very calm and we only smoked them once at the start. We used hammers, pry bars and power saws and the bees never got upset.Every situation is different,though. Do the necessary cutting prying etc to expose the nest. Here's where a bee vac is handy. You vacuum the bees off the comb. Without the vacuum, you'll cut sections of comb and tie them into the wooden frames using string or rubber bands. You'll want to keep the combs in the same order as they are in the wall. The largest concentration of bees will probably be on frames with varying stages of brood. Bees will not leave the brood, because they need to be kept warm and fed. If you get the queen into the hive you should be set as far as getting the others to follow. This is a very brief and simplified explanation of what to do. You'll be trying to hold up fairly heavy and delicate sections of honeycomb with out squeezing any bees or doing damage while you cut the comb at the top so you can remove it. It will be sticky and slippery at the same time. Bees will be flying all over, and you'll have to carefully place the comb in the frames and hold it in place while you tie it in. I'm not saying all this to discourage you, but to let you know that it's not a breeze and once you start, you're pretty much committed to finish. For a newbee, installing a 3 lb package of bees into a newly set up hive is considered an accomplishment to be proud of and can be a little nerve racking. You usually spend quite a while getting used to working the bees and learning the ropes before attempting a cutout. Check on line and you may find someone with a video of doing a cutout. Retrieving a swarm is something totally different and "usually"(with a grain of salt) much easier. If you do wait until spring, you'll have the whole winter to get equipment, read some good books and maybe find a mentor. Either way, come january, you should order a package of bees. It's good to have two hives for comparison, and if the wild ones don't make it, you can still get started in beekeeping. Good luck. It's a very interesting, exciting, and rewarding hobby.

    Bookmark   August 26, 2007 at 2:43AM
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Thanks for all the info and advice. I think I will wait till spring as you sugjest for all the reasons you mentioned. I hate doing things in a rush and unprepared. Spoils all the fun. They have been in the wall for three or four years and last year was a cold one for our area (if that makes a difference) so hopefully they will survive.
We were going to have a bee man remove them but at the last minute he said it would be $100.00 Not that that is unreasonable from what I,ve read. We just don't have the money right now.
I've always been interested in bees, just never made the time to pursue it ,so nows my chance, and with your help and other bee keepers I'm sure I have a good chance of success.

Thanks Mark

    Bookmark   August 26, 2007 at 5:02PM
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Mark, I think that's the best decision. That will give you time to read a few good bee books. Order some catalogs too. You can learn a lot from them and get an idea of the equipment and terminology. Make friends with a local beekeeper or two and join a club if there is one in your area. good luck

    Bookmark   August 27, 2007 at 12:38AM
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I also have bees in my chimney. They look like honey bees and I wasn't really concerned till I had to put a new liner in. I can't get near the chimney. I had the hive move in a few years back and then 2 hives split off which were recovered by a beekeeper. He wouldn't touch the chimney and I can't blame him. Its 30' up there. I have searched for the hive and brood but can't see it. We are going to look again this weekend when I have some supplies ( like a BIG net over me) I need to find the entry hole so I'll have to go look during the day. I'm not sure SEVIN is legal in Canada (correct me if I'm wrong) but I would like to have the hive robbed if possible. Once the new liner is in I can fill the chimney with cement effectively sealing the old part of the chimney for good. I read about soap and water to kill the bees. Maybe someone could expand on this a bit. Also would I have to have eyes on the hive for this to work?? Time is a problem. The liner needs to be in place before I can get more oil for my furnace. Ripping apart the brick really isn't an option at this time.
One more bit of info. I had known about the bees for some time. I had been watching them. I had another small nest at another location that we were going to lock out this spring. Both Hives appeared to be dead in the spring. No bees were visible for most of the summer. Is it possible that the hive in the chimney is simply being robbed and not the original hive.
More info. While writing this I went outside to see if I could see the enty hole. Place the ladder up to the roof and after about 2-3 minutes they started swarming from the chimney. There are lots!!

    Bookmark   August 27, 2007 at 12:34PM
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"I also have bees in my chimney. They look like honey bees and I wasn't really concerned till I had to put a new liner in. I can't get near the chimney."
We got a call for bees in a soffit next to a chimney. We cut out part of the soffit and there was actually a very big space that went all of the way behind the chimney that was full of comb and honey. For the most part they didn't bother me the whole time I was cutting out the comb. I used a bee vac to get most of the bees out. The tough part was being 25 ft up on a ladder. You can't panic or run away. I had a helper and wore a safety harness. I don't know if all chimneys have a big space behind them as a fire safety thing or not. If so, there's a good chance that that's where your bees are. You may need to get someone to come and take care of it. You really need to get the space cleaned out well or it will attract ants once the bees are gone and more bees eventually.

"I have searched for the hive and brood but can't see it. We are going to look again this weekend when I have some supplies ( like a BIG net over me) I need to find the entry hole so I'll have to go look during the day."
Binoculars work good at a safe distance.If there is a bee supply house within driving distance it will be well worth the money to by a veil. You can get what's called an Alexander veil for around $15. Covering yourself with a net will probably not keep the bees out. If they get angry, they are very good at finding openings in your protection and can sting through tight fitting clothes. That means loose fitting pants and shirt, fairly heavy gloves, and rubber bands around your cuffs, and a veil.
"I'm not sure SEVIN is legal in Canada (correct me if I'm wrong) but I would like to have the hive robbed if possible. Once the new liner is in I can fill the chimney with cement effectively sealing the old part of the chimney for good.

If you use a poison and bees rob the hive they may bring it back to their hive and you could end up killing some one's hive which is not acceptable. also As I mentioned, you really need to get the honey out.

"I read about soap and water to kill the bees. Maybe someone could expand on this a bit. Also would I have to have eyes on the hive for this to work??"

Soapy water will kill them fairly quickly, but you need to have access to the comb, brood etc.

"Both Hives appeared to be dead in the spring. No bees were visible for most of the summer. Is it possible that the hive in the chimney is simply being robbed and not the original hive."

It seems like if it was bees robbing, they would have found the hive a long time ago

"More info. While writing this I went outside to see if I could see the entry hole. Place the ladder up to the roof and after about 2-3 minutes they started swarming from the chimney. There are lots!!"

Are they actually flying out of the chimney top? Check during the day with binoculars to find the actual entrance, then ask yourself "Am I afraid of hundreds or thousands of bees buzzing around my head. Some hives are more temperamental than others. Do I want to risk doing it 30 ft up on a ladder, or should I spend some money to have an experienced person do the job." We don't want anyone getting hurt or worse

    Bookmark   August 28, 2007 at 10:57PM
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Hi!!! I really really need some help. So, I am trying to plant my sale hydrangea bushes, and all of a sudden I am surrounded by black and yellow fuzzy bumblebees. They dive bombed me from above, and flew up out of the ground. Nevertheless, I stood my ground. Not one bee bit me!!! But, at least 50 bees surrounded me, stared at me, and if they could talk, probably swore at me. What do I do?? Will they leave?? My hydrangea bushes could be planted later in the fall, but what will happen to the bees?? I tried to understand a "virgin queen" vs. the old queen, and the length of time these bumblebees live in the ground---I just need some imput as to what to do. I do not wish to kill them, though I really would like to plant my 5 hydrangea bushes. The ideal situation would be to plant the bushes and let the bumblebees exist there as well. This bed is next to my neighbor's house, and he is a mean old crochety guy!!! As far as I am concerned, let their hive continue---and may the bees frustrations be stinging my neighbor!!! LOL Please help me!! I know bee pollenation is low in Pittsburgh, PA. And, I do know how important bumblebees are in our environment. Thank you all!!!

    Bookmark   September 11, 2007 at 12:34AM
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I just want to know how to keep bees away from an outdoor party where we will be serving root beer. Some sort of a way to divert them and keep them out of the yard. We have not noticed any bees this year, but do not feel we can take a chance.

    Bookmark   October 3, 2007 at 12:17AM
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Looks like I have a problem similar to (and yet, different than) most of the ones described here.

My girlfriend and I live in an apartment that's attached to the house next door. In our backyards (both us and the neighbor, we share a large L shaped yard) we constantly have problems with hornets. We get a mixture of wasps and bumble bees as well, but it's typically hornets here.

We see small (maybe 4" x 5") honeycombs being built on the house, we spray it at night, they all die, we remove it, etc ... but they keep coming back. There's one at the peek of the back of the house that's "dead" from a couple years ago, but other than that, every last honeycomb is removed when the bees are. And yet, we can't win.

The worst year we've had so far was last summer (07), and we noticed that there were several bees most of the time floating around my neighbor's garage (the back of her garage faces our yard). So I think it might be possible that she has bigger nests/swarms than we do, and just hasn't dealt with it.

So I'm wondering ...

1. Is there a way to basically make our yard less attractive to bees?
2. Is there a law that says my neighbor HAS to take care of their bee infestation (IF they have one, and are neglecting it)?

I just don't want to go through a bunch of pains and a bunch of money to fix something every year when it wouldn't be as big a problem if my lazy neighbor would deal with a little responsibility.

Oh and for question 2, it's important to know that we live in New York, as I'm sure any laws like that are probably state-specific.

Any help is GREATLY appreciated, folks.

    Bookmark   April 23, 2008 at 5:27PM
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I live in Miami Florida; I have a friend who is having a bee problem herself. Unfortunately, she is also on a very tight budget. I read somewhere that beekeepers will sometimes take the bees for free. If this is true, please give me some names as soon as possible. It will be a tremendous help! Thank you!

    Bookmark   May 10, 2008 at 6:13PM
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Removing feral bees is best done by a beekeeper and even he will be lucky to find the queen and save the bees. In walls, chimneys and other tight and closed spaces it is tough. Sadly many have to be killed and, the nest needs to be removed or it will finally begin to drip as it rots, (50,000 bees will make a real stink) and, possibly attract new bees.
There is a product, Bee-go, that will drive bees out, but you still have the nest to remove.
Only an expert will know how to capture a queen and her nestmates so as to save them, without the queen you have nothing.
Like any problem, you just have to search until you find a person willing, able and qualified to remove bees. Check with your local Fire or Police Chief, he will be familiar with the problem and may know who to call.

    Bookmark   May 18, 2008 at 11:23PM
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Min3 South S.F. Bay CA

I'm here to tell everyone to NOT EVER spray Raid or other poisons into your walls to get rid of a hive of bees!

My husband did this to a hive of very peaceful Italian bees living in our wall. Of course it soon began to stink and we had to rip out the inside living room wall (the outside is brick) and I bet we scraped out 50 lbs of beautiful golden poisoned honey. It was a nasty sticky mess of a job and I was so sad for the bees and all those hundreds of miles of flying they had done! This was two years ago and though we cleaned and cleaned inside the wall, it STILL smells bad when it rains. Min

    Bookmark   May 26, 2008 at 8:21PM
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I need a bee keeper to remove a 2 month old hive in an exterior eve. Please respond. Sugar Land Texas ")

    Bookmark   June 15, 2008 at 1:50PM
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Flowerhen(z4 Maine)

WOW,,at this point in time, I would WELCOME honey bees to make hives around my property,,or even on my house for pete sakes. I haven't seen a wild honey bee all spring or summer. We use to have thousands and thousands all over just a couple years ago. Now, ,all i can find is a single bumble bee buzzing around my climbing rose bush. I have fruit trees, and veggie gardens that don't have any bees in them,,,pretty sad,,,I sure hope people smarten up and stop poisening are #1 helper in pollination. People should watch the documantary about the "silence of the bees".

    Bookmark   June 26, 2008 at 9:07PM
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I've just discovered bees swarming around the roof above my back door; I've never noticed them when working outside, or washing clothes, which is three feet away. However, there seems to be thousands of them, though I thought there was only fifty or so. After reading your forum, I see it is a common problem, but I haven't found any one in the Houston area who deals with ferrel swarms. I'd like to not kill them, especially since there seems to be a decline in healthy bees, but I don't want them. I've been vaccuuming them, but there doesn't seem to be an end to them.

Anyone know of Houston area beekeepers who want a hive? I'm open to ideas. I'd like to handle it myself, but I don't have the clothing or knowhow. I called a removal service, and they wanted five hundred dollars to remove the bees and honey. Though that may be a great and reasonable offer, that's a little steep for me.

Question: The bees appear to be attracted or just attack lights at night, so how could I take boards and screen down from the soffit without being attacked? I'd like to take down bords so I could at least see how many are there, for as I've stated, this is a new thing to see them flying around here, and I frequent the area daily, yet there appears to be thousands of them.

    Bookmark   June 27, 2008 at 6:38PM
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Okay, I have removed the board covering the hive, and it looks quite big; I can't really estimate accurately, but it looks less than a square foot, and they are very calm. I'd like to know how to reach beekeepers who might want them, or whether it is wise to try to get a hive box or what ever it is called, and try to keep them myself. They certainly are calm, and there has to be a few thousand or so, though I still can't figure out how they could have been there and I didn't see them before. Are there beekeeper clubs/? Any suggestions?

    Bookmark   June 28, 2008 at 9:45PM
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Click on the link for a list of beekeeping associations in Texas, including Houston.

Here is a link that might be useful: Texas Beekeeping Associations

    Bookmark   June 30, 2008 at 11:03PM
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My husband and I recently inherited a 200+ year old house. We are currently in the process of remodeling all of it, and we noticed there were honey bees flying into a hole under an upstairs window, so we asked around and found a beekeeper to come and get them out. Once he got there, the hive went nuts, and he wasn't able to get all the bees. He thought he had gotten the queen, took the honeycomb out, did everything I've heard you all say to do here. He boarded up the wall and caulked it. Problem is, the bees are back. Now my husband has decided to wait until this winter (we live in NY state) and then just tear open the side of the house and get them while they are "dormant". Is this even a good idea for him to do? I know that in a hive, the bees keep themselves warm and keep the queen warm at about an 80 degree temp. Will they still swarm in weather that is 30 degrees or colder? It makes me nervous to think he might get hurt doing this, as he doesn't know the first thing about how to get rid of them himself. I suggested we call another beekeeper, AND PAY if necessary, but he says he can do it. Any thoughts are appreciated, and can be sent to my email at

    Bookmark   August 2, 2008 at 9:20PM
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I am in the pittsburgh area I need a bee keeper that wants these bees, i have a nest the size of my head in the bush outside i really dont want to kill them

    Bookmark   August 14, 2008 at 9:29AM
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I am in the pittsburgh area I need a bee keeper that wants these bees, i have a nest the size of my head in the bush outside i really dont want to kill them

    Bookmark   August 14, 2008 at 11:41AM
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There has been a feral hive in a low bush close to outdoor swimming pool.
This morning it is GONE - - It was seen yesterday. Areas of house were caulked and taped to prevent bees coming inside yesterday, an overcast day in Southern California, zone 10.
The Bee Catcher / Eliminator is scheduled to arrive at 8 a.m. tomorrow.

Is it possible for a bee hive to be physically moved unaided by humans?

    Bookmark   March 14, 2010 at 5:36PM
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I'm at a loss myself. After reading intently all these postings and advice,I still feel beaten. My church is trying to kill a nice hive, I'm so against it but can't find anything legal to stop them, the killing may still go on because I can't find any law in NY to say otherwise.
I'm a firm believer in letting ALL creatures live, but because of one or two complaining people, these little bees may have to die. The hive is about 20' off the ground and isn't bothering anyone! Can anyone help me with any legal-type advice so I might have a leg to stand on!
They refuse to spend any money, I found someone to remove them and repair everything after, but they want it all done free. They are an Endangered Species! Poor things. If they do kill them if I lose the fight, isn't a dead hive worse? They have been in my office wall over 3 weeks now.
Any advice from bee lovers like me?

    Bookmark   June 22, 2010 at 10:17AM
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We have spotted honey bees going in and out of an opening to the roof of an add on room of the house. My ? is, if it has only been a couple days to a week that we have noticed them will there be a signigicant amount of honey and comb that will have to be removed. 2nd ? is, can we smoke them out and not hurt them...we do not want to kill them.

    Bookmark   September 2, 2010 at 9:52PM
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The truth is that soap and water will kill a bee quicker than any nasty pestecide on the market. I was in the business for several years in different regions of the us.If you add soap to water the water will penetrate the pores in which the bees breath.bees as most insects breath through their exoskeleton and soapy water suffocates them in an instant.

    Bookmark   May 31, 2011 at 2:18PM
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I need help to get rid off Bees in front of my house,they are located on top of a column at the entrance of my house.
I live in Miami and dont know who to call.Please advise.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2011 at 11:13AM
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I have lived in a mobile home for 14 years. Each summer, I live with the knowledge that bees have made a home in the eaves of my home for each of those years. I am totally terrified of them - phobic even - but I've always thought this situation to be an "it is what it is" scenario. I would love to have them all gone, whatever the cost. But, I can live with them doing their thing.... outside. My fear of taking steps to eradicate them is creating a scenario where they turn their focus to coming through the walls and entering my house. If I let them "bee," are the odds good that they will never turn their attention to the interior of my home?

    Bookmark   August 17, 2011 at 9:55PM
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I had a nice honey bee hive going on in my water meter. I thought about just letting the city take care of it, as they couldnt get to the meter otherwise, but then realized they would just spray it and kill the poor guys. I looked on craigs list and found a guy 3 counties over, that charged a minimum of 200 and stated he typically charged a 100 dollars an hour :(. Beginning to think the city idea wasn't so bad after all. I looked in the yellow pages and found about 3 local honey dealers. First one I called referred me to a local guy a couple of miles away. Called him up, told him the issue and he said he would come remove it for 75.00. Still not thrilled about letting go of the green, but it sounded a lot better than 200 plus or killing them. The beekeeper showed first thing the next morning. Worked a couple of hours and left a hive over the nest, says he will be back in a couple of days to pick them up. He removed all of the honey,which he said she had made a lot of, and states he has scraped everything out and will spray with insecticide at the end. He said he can't guarantee they won't be back next year. He said they were very friendly and he could have easily worked with them without cover. He is happy the queen was a producer, I am happy he is taking them home with him. He said spraying them is the first thing people think of, but it won't get rid of them. Their honey is left to ferment in there, and attracts all kinds of problems, or worse contaminates the honey that ends up who knows where, and a new crew moves in. I know my lawn guys are gonna be happy :)

    Bookmark   October 28, 2011 at 4:43PM
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I read that bees don't like the smell of almond extract. "The Arkansas State Plant Board says if you mix almond extract in hummingbird feeders it will keep bees away and will not harm the hummingbirds" and "The strong scent of the almond extract will drive the bees from the super." From two different sources. Obviously that won't help if they've made a home there, but if you need to keep them from hanging around, this might help.

    Bookmark   November 19, 2011 at 6:19PM
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Hi, I think I have a bee problem in my home.
Let my explain myself:
I've left my home for about 2 months and when I was back -around the last days of September- I saw a couple of dead bees. At first I thought that it was merely some that were trapped in my apartment while I was gone.

However in the next few days I would see a couple *live* ones flying in my home every now and then. Again -naively- I thought they were of the same bunch (which somehow got "stuck" in my home). I would open the windows so to let them out.

But even though I thought they left a couple of days later I saw more. They were never swarms only one or two flying as if they're lost, but no matter how many times I let them out, new ones "appear" in my home.

That led me to believe that there is a honeycomb around. Since I live with my kids (and bees may be a hazard) I would greatly appreciate if you could give me a tip to at least be able to determine whether the honeycomb is *in* my apartment or somewhere outside (in which case I can't do much).


    Bookmark   November 22, 2011 at 10:55AM
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If you are still going to remove the bees yourself, then be sure that you are extremely careful. There are a lot of things that could go wrong if you do it incorrectly.

I've seen a homeowner try and take out a larger hive of Africanized Bees across the street from a park. It could have easily been a situation where they lost control and a little girl playing on the swings could have died.

Here is a link that might be useful: Getting Rid of Bees

    Bookmark   December 30, 2011 at 4:12AM
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    Bookmark   January 4, 2012 at 7:34PM
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Bee removal in Nassau County, Long Island is done in many different way. Exterminating bees depends upon what flying insect we are dealing with, ie.
Honey bees, hornets, wasps, yellow-jackets, bumble bees, or carpenter bees. In some cases we use chemical insecticides to exterminate the bees, but we capture honey bee swarms without bringing any harm to the bees.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bee removal in Nassau County, Long Island

    Bookmark   April 8, 2014 at 4:33PM
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