AttnWykoff=Deltona)Bloom your amaryllis this fall

amaryllisstudygroupAugust 1, 2012

This is a technique to bloom amaryllis bulbs growing in the garden in temperate zones without a forcing technique.

This is what you do :: gently dig/unplant your bulb without breaking or cutting [DO NOT CUT THE ROOTS, LEAVES, OR NECK IN THIS TECHNIQUE] your leaves from the outdoor pot or its place in the garden. Rinse the roots & bulb. [DO NOT CHILL] Lay the bulb on its side on a shelf or on the ground/grass in partial sun. After 5 to 7 days, replant the roots and bottom half of the bulb in a well draining 50% sand/ 50% organic moderately tight mix in an 8 inch or larger pot. If you are going keep the bulb in this pot for a year or more, put a 3 or 4 inch flat tile immediately under the basal plate of the bulb at planting and press the soil tight. The bulb will within 10 days start up one to three flower scapes. Use 8 oz. water when you plant and every 3 weeks through the last bloom or until seed harvest if you pollenated.

Timing=If it is a Hadeco variety, use the # of days from planting to bloom in the catalog or on line. Subtract the # of days from the date of your event[Halloween; Thanksgiving; Christmas; New Years Eve; birthday; etc. This date is your replanting day. Back up 5 more days. This is your unplanting date.

If the bulb is a regular large bulb, large flower type use 39 days as your #of days from replanting to bloom.

What conditions can keep this from working?

If you use cybister hybrids, they have a low rate of success.

If you use species hippeastrum, you may not see any difference in # of days from replanting to bloom or only a little.

In the case of difficult hippies like bog growers or Harrisonii the aquatic one. You might contact someone like Josh who does a lot of data research and may have come acrss notes on # of days to bloom. Although there won't be anything on this technique as it does not involve forcing as there is not resting tempperature or prechilling and warming stages. No one else works in this part of the bloom/growth cycle that I know of except a few creative private gardeners and some that attended my seminars over the last to 10 years.

If the temperature falls below 47 F degrees at night the blooming will slow or fail depending on how low it gets and how long it lasts.

If the daytime temperature gets above 87 F degrees, the blooming will speed, slow or fail depending on how high it gets and for how long each day.

TO CORRECT FOR HIGH OR LOW TEMPERATURES Replant in a pot and bring the pot inside to a sunny window.

You may contact me at amstgrp@yahoo.com if you have any questions.

This has been successful in Jacksonville, Sarasota, Deltona, Gainesville, Ocala, Orlando, West Palm Beach, Coral Gables, Tampa, St. Augustine, Vero Beach and other places in Florida. There is no reason it won't work other places as well.

The bulbs I have used were originally planted outside in beds or pots. I know a couple of successful people who only grow in indoor pots like botanists and nurserymen.

E. Wm. Warren

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brigarif Khan

Hello Warren
So finally it is 5-7 days in semi shade and not 3-5, rest is the same.
I want to try it again. I want to have blooms in first week of March. So I should pull out the mature bulbs which are in the ground for 2 years on 20th of December, replant on 25th.[ The planting has to be in pot or can I put them back in a bed]?
According to you, [If the temperature falls below 47 F degrees at night the blooming will slow or fail depending on how low it gets and how long it lasts.
If the daytime temperature gets above 87 F degrees, the blooming will speed, slow or fail depending on how high it gets and for how long each day.
TO CORRECT FOR HIGH OR LOW TEMPERATURES Replant in a pot and bring the pot inside to a sunny window].
Now that is where I foresee the failure. I have no temp controlled green house. And no place in side to keep the pots
At that time of the year the night temperature will be 30-40 F, the bulbs will go dormant and bloom at their usual time.
But if I want them to bloom in middle of November, I should pull them out on 1st of October, replant on 6th for blooms around 15th of November.
Amaryllis finishes blooming by the end of May. This looks feasible and worth a try half will go back in bed and half in pots. To my mind 8 inch pot is too small, why not 12 inch pot? And what is the reason for a flat tile under the basal plate?
Arif

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 1:11PM
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