My latest video.
Here is a link that might be useful: youtube: Grafting Oaks/Beech
What types of oaks and beech are you grafting this season?
Couldn't get any beech this season.
I'm grafting oaks like a madman!
From a private collection!
I've only seen one cultivar so far for sale in the U.S.
Here is a link that might be useful: Quercus at Sooner Plant Farm
Hey Dax. Great video! Is this the same procedure for Taxodium and Ginkgo grafting? How do you rehydrate the scions 1/2hr - 1.5hr before grafting?
Taxoidum are grafted just like other conifers: i.e. bud strip and into a tenting chamber. Ginkgo are grafted same as oaks however they are not submerged in wax. Keep Ginkgo on heat mats either inside a tenting chamber (winter) or on racks with bottom heat. Ginkgo are very easy.
Re-hydrate: I filled my kitchen sink, rubber-banded all the sticks in groups with labels and tossed them in and set a timer. You snip off the bottom of the scions prior so they are more capable of absorbing water.
Another method for really dried wood is to use a five gallon bucket and fill it half full and add one cap full of 'Superthrive' and soak them the same way.
Pat them dry, snip off the end again, and graft them.
Quercus-Oak Grafts Completed and Waxed on Bottom Heat
Waxed Quercus-Oak Scions Close-up:
Great video on grafting Oaks. Once you've completed the grafting is it necessary to place them under tenting and additional humidity also?
You do some very interesting grafting. You are very lucky!
Nope you can just put them on a table once they are waxed. I'll repeat you need bottom heat, at least until the scions fully leaf, then remove the understock and you can take them off the heat mats.
Good luck with your grafting Dax
Thanks my man.
Great video Dax. Question - what is the reason for dipping them in wax?
So the wood & buds/union don't dry out.
Hey Dax, That is really cool that you take the time and effort to make that movie. Real enjoyable. Ive grafted a number of ap maples over the years, but nothing as organized as you.Fun to watch...Thanks!
I'll keep the trend alive and record summer grafting of maples and ginkgo, as well.
Appreciate the words.
Should've mentioned this is how you graft Japanese maples in the winter as well.
You should consider building a hot callus setup. It would save you from all the waxing and graft seal business. Plus, you can regraft what dosent callus up after a few weeks before leaf out.
When I graft beech and oak I try to hang the wood as low as possible, just above soil level. Often you see these plants with an unsightly bulge at the graft union, especially beech. The lower you graft the less likely you are to see this. Actually, I try to do this with everything I graft, except for standards.
Thank you, thank you. I realize my grafts aren't perfect & appreciate the constructive criticism.
I'm sure I'll be fine the way I'm going with waxing. I know someone who gets the same results waxing as on a pipe, so, I'll stick around and continue to do them like this. Even bagging them works great for him. It's a lot about how well you take care of the bagged grafts - opening the bags daily, or with the waxed grafts, how well (you) do along the process.
Well I'm talking to a guy who's been around a lot longer than myself. I don't need to keep going.
Thanks for the kind thoughts and inspiration & everything you've done for me.
I posted a thread about this but will bump this thread for information.
Might try some grafting, both top working as well as grafting onto rootstocks this winter and spring. Mostly apples and maples.
I've seen where wax is used, as is done here. They all say "don't let the wax get too hot, or you might damage the cambium or buds".
What none of them say is now hot that is. 110 degrees F? 130 degrees F? 160?
The video is gone that the OP posted.
And what do you do for bottom heat? Just a standard heat mat? Do you use a Thermostat?
I just used a heat mat w/o a thermostat.
I dip at 160F for greenhouse thickness. Dip them fast if the temps cannot be controlled/kept at 160F. Eventually depending upon just how fast you are the wax will cool and it will become thick and will not adhere completely to the wood. That's the method I do. I cut up 1/2 block of paraffin wax, drop it into an empty milk jug that I cut the top off of but was sure to keep the handle - pour *almost* boiling water into the jug with the block of wax. It takes 45 minutes to 55 minutes for the temp to drop to 160F. Others... they use crock pots but I don't do this method.
If you're using wax for outdoor application... you should mix beeswax and paraffin at a rate of 50/50. You'll need the extra thickness the beeswax provides. Temperature... I don't know but I'd begin at 160 and *test* every 10 degrees for a thickness you'd like.
Here's a video of a friend talking beeswax and outdoor pecan grafting. I can't recall if he mentioned temperature or not.
Here is a link that might be useful: Grafting with Machined Tool
160 huh? That's hotter than I'd have expected...I mean, even a steak is too done for my taste at that temperature...I'd assume it would cook plants. Obviously you know what works, I'm just surprised.
So you let the molten wax float on the water and just plunge through it?
I stir it up really well and start dipping. When it cools the wax returns to the top of the water and you can reuse it again.
So you dip in a wax/water slurry?
Oaks, eh? Is there a type of graft that works best for oaks? I never knew oaks were graft-able. Now I am intrigued!
Whatever you're comfortable with Sarah. Side/veneer works just fine but if you are good at whip and tongue, I'd use that. Just remember that oak wood is like iron so be very careful with what you're doing. A blade that's razor sharp is the only way to graft them. Veneer I'd recommend if you aren't extremely experienced. One slip with that knife messing around with whip & tongue or wedge grafting and you'll be in the middle of the bone of your finger and you may have a finger hanging off your hand. Take your time, that's the first piece of advice I always tell people.
White oaks (white family) graft together and reds with reds. The most common rootstocks for whites are Quercus robur or robur var. fastigiata for the narrow selections or Quercus alba; for reds people use either rubra or palustris. There is some incompatibility with palustris but I don't remember what is incompatible with it. Of course species to species is always best in a perfect world. There are other sections such as the cerris section... those should be grafted together...while they can go on white's, cerris to cerris is much better and you'll get more takers. (cerris, libani, suber, and so on.) Check which sections each falls into and choose rootstocks compatible, within...
Yes the wax consistency would-actually be uniform whether I stirred or not. I like stirring though for peace of mind I guess & to get that damn chunk of wax melted faster.
P.s. you can graft just about anything but something that is rootable - on its' own roots is always best! Dirr & Heuser 'The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation' is a must.
bicolor for whites is another excellent rootstock. It just hit me. That's what I've in my greenhouse right now.