Meyer lemon Air layer, help!

stickstring (Northern California 8b)August 23, 2014

I've set up two air layers on the meyer lemon tree we have at our ranch. One has rooted very well, the other not as well although good. What worried me is the air layer's leaves seem to be turning yellow if not all leaves and the branchs them selfs are begining to show a tint of yellow. I am worried I might kill these air layers! I watered the air layer today although they did seen a little on the dry side.

I have attached some pictures of the two air layers roots and also of the whole air layers. If you look closely you will be able to see the yellow branches. Do you feel there are enough roots to remove from tree? I really don't want to loose these air layers.

Thanks.

Below is air layer 1

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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Pic below is another pic of air layer 1

    Bookmark   August 23, 2014 at 3:16AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Air layer #2

    Bookmark   August 23, 2014 at 3:18AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another pic of air layer #2

    Bookmark   August 23, 2014 at 3:19AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Air layer #1 with a lot of roots above. This pic shows how the air layers branches are beginning to turn yellow.

    Bookmark   August 23, 2014 at 3:22AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Air layer #2 with fewer roots...

    Bookmark   August 23, 2014 at 3:24AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

The last question I had is if you guys/gals feel removing from tree now and getting them potted is the best route then I will need to know how the best way to transport air layers home. Our ranch is 45 min away from home. I would prefer not to pot air layer at ranch and drive home due to the rough roads getting out of ranch. Any opinions on how to transport these air layers? Soaked in water and wrapped in plastic bag?

    Bookmark   August 23, 2014 at 8:22PM
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calistoga_al

If you keep them cool and in the dark for the 45 minutes to make the trip, I don't see how you can have a problem. Al

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 9:36AM
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johnorange

You have a fairly large branch but I think you have as many roots as you can reasonably get for the size of the peat wad you are rooting them in. Be very careful when you remove the tape and wrapping from the root wad. The roots are VERY fragile and prone to just snapping off at this stage. I'm not sure why your leaves are yellowing unless the branch is beginning to decay where you removed the bark, hence it wouldn't be getting as much water and nutrients from the trees main roots.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 10:47AM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

I can't help but think the roots are now suffocating, not getting nutrients from the mother plant but are needing nutrients of their own, and that they are overheating exposed to sun like that...

The whole plant looking at it also seems nutrient defficient...

Mike

1 Like    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 12:58PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Thanks to all,
Update:
I cut both air layers off of the tree and brought them home. When I removed tape and plastic I realized the peat moss is drier then I expected. A lot drier. That can be the reason behind the yellowing? My original plan was to use 5-1-1 mix to pot them up but due to circumstances I was unable to make that happen and was forced to use a 50/50 mix of MG citrus and cactus and perlite. My plan is to repot these into a 5-1-1 mix as soon as they turn green and look healthy enough for a repot.

What I did last night:
Filled pot with 50/50 MG citrus and cactus and perlite
Washed as much moss around roots as possible without breaking roots and settled in pot.
Topped with more medium and watered well. Very well. I have also been spraying the branches and foilage occasionaly with water .

That's all I have done for now. Should I do something else? I didn't want to add any fertilizer just yet although the MG bag says it has fertilizer in it. The pots are sitting in full shade underneath a maple tree in my yard.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 1:49PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

I would of fertilized anyway to give the nutrients asap..

If the roots are functioning properly, which I would tend to believe, they will take up nutrients in the shade like that anyhow and it will give them a good head start...

The whole tree looks very nutrient deprived which leads me to suspect that instead of dry peat..Your rooted portion would of died of thrist by now and the roots wouldn't look so healthy and white..They were getting moisture from the looks of the condesation on the bags from the pics..

Mike

This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Mon, Aug 25, 14 at 15:10

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 2:56PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike,
Thanks you, I attached a couple photos of the two air layers potted and under maple tree.
My wife agreed with you (mike) and actually fertilized while I was out. All we have here is Alaska Fish Fertilizer. It calls for 1tbs per gallon. She diluted it to 1 tsp to 1 gallon of water and watered them well. Then took the remainder of the mixed fertilizer, put in spray bottle and sprayed foilage well....

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 4:44PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Here is second air layer

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 4:45PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

At night we have a fog belt that comes in and keeps humidity around 80-90%. During the day the humidy has been dropping to around 45-50%. Should I be spraying the foilage with water and if so how often?

Thank you

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 4:58PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Hey, great job..

But I wouldn't depend on that fish fertiizer to green up your plants..I would use a great fertilizer that needs your trees every need..

If you want them to respond quickly and come around, I would fertilizer with even Miracle Grow if you have access to it..
I use Foliage Pro..
I know 4Winds in California carries Romeo..Good stuff.

There must be areas around your home that sell great citrus fertilizers? No?
Can you order one or find a local greenhouse, hydroponics store?
A citrus grove?
If you find a fertilizer lacking Calcium, you can always suppliment it

You did the right thing potting up and putting them in the shaded area..But loose the Fish emulsion for their only source of nutrients..Organic fertilizers like that are best used in the ground where microbes make it available over a period of time)

If you need to be spraying your foliage with water, the something is amess with the roots..I would not bother.You already have plenty of moisture in those conditions..You don't want diseease to take hold on your trees)

Mike

This post was edited by meyermike_1micha on Mon, Aug 25, 14 at 17:14

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 5:09PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike,
I will put the fish fertilizer away and try to get my hands on some foilage pro- I will keep updating as they progress.
Thank you!

    Bookmark   August 25, 2014 at 5:24PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike,
I ordered some foilage pro from a local hydro store. I will be picking it up wed. I have gone back and read as much as possible regarding it and it seems that most people use it at 1/4 teaspoon per gal at every watering. These tree's will be outside all year except for maybe 1 or 2 weeks. Would the same ratio work for me?

    Bookmark   August 26, 2014 at 5:30PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

So I just picked up a gal of foilage pro. I've read the directions and not sure which route to take. It says, "production: 1tsp/gal water per week". "Maintenance: 1/4tsp/gal water per watering". Should I stick with the 1tsp/gal until fall, and then jump to the 1/4tsp/gal?

Thank you

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 2:57PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Hi Stick...

It depends on what works for you and yet it will work for you plants..

This is what I do..If I can't give 1/4 at every watering then I use double dose, 2 tbs once a week until September 15 or until the temps cool below 55 at night..

Then I use a very week dose until next spring through the winter if any at all, until about April 15...1/4 strength once a month to none at all..I try not to fertilize. It depends on how active my trees are at the time, which is not very much. Weak lighting to blame.... If they are kepted in bright light and religously growing, I would fertilize weak..If they are not, I hold back almost all winter...
You basiclly play it by ear. You will be the only who knows how active your trees are and whether to feed them
Everyone and every situation is different..

If you do fertilize..Then1/4 strength every watering or 1 tblsp once week is a great guidline, safe..You can't go wrong with those rcommended doses, and as time goes by, you will be able to add more or take away as you see fit..

Do you know whay I DON"T fertilize all winter if any at all?

MIke

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 7:20PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Did you mean tsp instead of tbsp? The back of the foilage pro bottle says tsp

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 7:35PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Citrus need dormancy?

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 8:03PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Hi Stick:

Yes, I meant tsp for you..Thank you for that.

You use a tsp because your are using a finer mix instead of the 5.1.1 mix..I usually feed heavier in the 5.1.1 mix, so for me it would be tbsp..

No, they don't go dormant...But fertilizing in the winter causes elongated, weak, and spindly growth which in turn attracts spider mites and a host of a lot other pests)

MIke

    Bookmark   August 27, 2014 at 9:37PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

*update*
So today is day 3 in the pot. I have been checking the moisture level in the potting medium all the way down to the bottom with a bamboo rod daily and have been suprised that the medium is still quite moist. The pots are in the shade under a maple tree. So that may have something to do with it. I got foliage pro yesterday and was planning on waiting to fertilize until it was ready for a watering. We have been averaging 75-80f during the day @ 50% humidity and 55-60 at night with 80-85% humidity. I hope these pots dry out soon!!!! I want to fertilize!
Should I fertilize the leaves while I am waiting?

    Bookmark   August 28, 2014 at 10:19PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Stick, I would of potted them right into a 5.1.1 mix right off the bat or something simiar..

That mix is going to take much too long to dry out every time you water, especially in the shade, cool temps, or in the house.

I would of mixed 1/4 part of that mix with 3/4 parts of perlite if that was my only option for a mix. I hope it dries out soon too..

Fertilize the leaves? Good question...I am not sure of that one since I never rely on fertilizing through leaves.

Keep us updated...

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 8:07AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

I was considering drilling out a few 1/2" holes around the side of the plastic pot. Most likely towards the bottom, maybe 2-3" above the ground in hopes that would help dry out the bottom of the mix quicker. I will pick up supplies for 5-1-1 as soon as possible. I was just hoping to bring these air layers back to life in the meantime while waiting for supplies for other mix.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 11:41AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Holes have been drilled all the way around both pots. Hopefully this helps. I fertilized the foilage this evening. Hopefully this will help in the meantime.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 10:24PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Second pot

    Bookmark   August 29, 2014 at 10:25PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Update-
Pots still weren't drying as fast as is hoped. The shaded spot I put them in for the roots to establish tends to stay very moist. I think that is my biggest problem. I raised the pots with drying racks as you can see hoping warm ambient air underneath pot will help versus cold damp soil.

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 10:26PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Pots were about 75% dry and I couldn't wait any longer, I wanted to give these trees some fertilizer so went ahead and fertilized with 1tsp/per gal of foilage pro. I'm hoping now that the pots are off the ground a few inches they will dry out slightly faster....

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 10:29PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Great job! To me they look greener already..Are they greener than they were?

You should get an A* for effort..)

MIke

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 10:35PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike,
Thank you for all of the responses and being so helpful. It means a lot as I am a diesel mechanic and know absolutely NOTHING about growing plants and have been trying to learn as much as possible in such a short amount of time. So your help has been amazing.

To be honest, I have not noticed a difference in color. My wife says they are greener then when I cut them off of the tree. But I'm not sure. I do know the new growth on the branchs have been growing and getting bigger. Some are very green and healthy, others are lighter green but pushing.

How long should I leave them in 100% shade? Today makes them in pots for exactly one week. I have read so many different opinions on "shade / getting roots established", that my head is spinning. Some people say 2 weeks. Other people say 3-4 weeks.

Thanks!

    Bookmark   August 31, 2014 at 11:32PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Stick, not a problem. I actually enjoy helping others that appreciate it and apply what they learn..It is starting to show)
I'm telling you, as your wife says, they are getting green..That is a true sign that the roots are working and they will make it if you don't over water..That is the only concern I have.

You should start fertilizing right now, I can't remember, if you have not already started..It's a good sign.
I would start introducing them to sunlight starting today.
Stick then in area where they will get morning or late day direct sun..Then, next week, go for full sun if you can.

Have a wonderful day and keep me updated, will ya?

Mike

    Bookmark   September 1, 2014 at 10:05AM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Stick, not a problem. I actually enjoy helping others that appreciate it and apply what they learn..It is starting to show)
I'm telling you, as your wife says, they are getting green..That is a true sign that the roots are working and they will make it if you don't over water..That is the only concern I have.

You should start fertilizing right now, I can't remember, if you have not already started..It's a good sign.
I would start introducing them to sunlight starting today.
Stick then in area where they will get morning or late day direct sun..Then, next week, go for full sun if you can.

Have a wonderful day and keep me updated, will ya?

Mike

    Bookmark   September 1, 2014 at 12:52PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Update-
Hey guys and gals, just a quick update for those following, both little trees seem to be getting greener. I have not seen any new growth since the have been potted although the very new growth that existed at the time of potting has had mixed outcomes. Some new growth has fallen off completely, others have flourished and grown at a fast pace, and some have gone from healthy to droopy, back to healthy. But doesn't seem to be growing at any fast pace. Over all, I believe the small tree's are doing quite well. I've attached a couple pics of the new growth.

    Bookmark   September 3, 2014 at 10:21PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

2nd pic of droopy new growth

    Bookmark   September 3, 2014 at 10:22PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

How wonderful is that!!?

Thanks for posting...By the way. It looks like maybe a pincher bug of some sort pinch that new growth right off..Like maybe an earwig..Do you have those?

Nice

Mike

    Bookmark   September 4, 2014 at 6:20PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, yes seems like they are doing ok. Earwigs! Yes, we have TONS of earwigs! I cannot turn over a rock or a pot without a handful of them running for cover!

    Bookmark   September 4, 2014 at 9:15PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike,
I have moved both tree's to the "sunniest" spot in my yard on Saturday. My wife and I both feel that that both tree's are begining to show more signs of yellowing leaves? Could this be due to the move to direct sun? I will leave them where they are. When I check the pots for moisture with a wooden dowel, how "dry" should it be before watering? Completely dry or barely damp?

    Bookmark   September 8, 2014 at 10:49PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Sick. have you been fertilizing yet? With what?

If you are not using a very porous mix, I am not sure of how to know when to water. I use to kill all my plants in heavier mixes.
What I have learned though is that a wooden dowel will tell you accurately when to water. I would use one of those until you get use to knowing when to water.

You must water correctly and use a mix that does not hold a perched water table.

You can never let your mix dry out to much and never over water.

The sun would turn your leaves yellow if your tree is not ready or starving for nutrients as it wants to grow. Either or?
Your new growth should be ok, is it? What is the pH of your water there?
I know Four Winds has to acidify their water so their tree take up nutrients...I am not sure about your water either. I would check that. I know some areas of your state seem to do fine with tap water.
The main reason my plants turn yellow like that is my tap water. I have to acidify my water regularly.

MIke

    Bookmark   September 9, 2014 at 8:46AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike I have. I started fertilizing when you first told me to start a few weeks ago I believe. I have been fertilizing with 1tsp per gal of foilage pro. I have not added vinegar to mix because the town claims to have water PH of 7.3-7.7. So I figured my tap water was good.

I have only been able to water once ever 7 days or so when the pots were in full shade. Now that they are in a much sunnier location, the potting medium seems to be drying much faster. I plan on watering/fertilizing today after work. I have been keeping track of dates of my watering intervals to have a better idea. I am hoping that today's watering dries much faster in the sun then it has been.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2014 at 1:33PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

PH level for my town

    Bookmark   September 9, 2014 at 1:34PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Last night after work I watered both tree's, 1tsp/gal foilage pro with 1cap vinegar/gal. Both tree's are showing signs of new growth and one has been pushing flowers like crazy.

The wooden dowel has been 75% dry with just the bottom inch or inch and half damp when I water.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2014 at 11:33AM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Stick, I will be back soon..Mom is in hospital and I have been there caring for her..

One thing, fertilize more than that...As long as you flush the mix at least twice a month.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2014 at 5:10PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

I am sorry to hear about your mom. I hope all is well and you both will return home soon!

When you say fertilize more, do you mean water more often or water when needed but increase amount of foilage pro?

Increase amount to 1tbsp? Versus 1tsp? Or even more?

Thank you again and I hope all is well.

    Bookmark   September 10, 2014 at 5:36PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

The tree's leaves seem to be becoming more and more yellow. I have also noticed the new foilage seems to be curling down. Could I have put these into the sun too soon? Should I put them back into the shade or do they need more time in sun to adjust? Too much water? Deffinitly not too little water, I stress I am overwatering due to soil?

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 8:45PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another pic

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 9:01PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another...

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 9:04PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another....

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 9:12PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Second tree

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 9:14PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another of second

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 9:15PM
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tcamp30144(7B N.ATLANTA)

Its hanging in there congratulations.
Trace

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 10:52PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Tcamp30144,
Thank you. They do seem like they are holding on. They just seem to be yellowing a little with curled leaves. I have been considereding starting from scratch and reporting them all over again Into the 5-1-1 mix. My only concern is repotting them twice in 3 weeks plus the stress of cutting them
Off their main tree. I'm not sure if that's too much stress for them to handle or if I should just leave them be for a while. I stress about overwatering due to the soil it's in now. 50% maricle grow cactus and citrus and 50% perlite.

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 11:27PM
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CA Kate

Hi! I just started reading this thread today. You've gotten really good advice and your trees seem to be doing well. As to the yellowing leaves: I think you're getting some die-back just from the whole process, plus, you have a lot of tree for the small, new root mass you've grown. The roots just might not be able to supply sufficient sap to all parts and so it will be the older leaves that will go first. You have nice green young growth, and that's good.

Mike: should he pick off the blossoms this year? I think I would.

    Bookmark   September 11, 2014 at 11:49PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

My plan was to pick off any small fruit that may form. Do you think I should repot with 5-1-1?

    Bookmark   September 12, 2014 at 12:57AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Uh oh! My first yellow leaf dropped off the tree this morning. It was one of the VERY yellow ones

    Bookmark   September 12, 2014 at 2:47PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Hi Stick...I'm sorry for not being around, ben a little side tracked)

I see your tree is doing ok considering all that you have been able to do for it. I would stick it right back into NON direct full sun until it seems to be ok.

I would also up the fertilizer to 1 tablesppon when you water..It's hard to judge from my vantage point because I can't work with that kind of mix. I am use to feeding at every watering and or giving more than the recommended dosage because I don't have to worry about my mix drying out or collecting disolved salts..
The fact that it takes that long to dry out concerns me...Roots can die back quickly if wet for too long. They suffocta every quickly.

Pick the fruit off for the time being and as for the blossoms, I would leave them and enjoy the fragrance...The fact that they are not dead yet is a good sign)

Yellow leaves and falling off the main trunk is common for citrus in shock mode even if the roots are healthy.
But yellowing from root rot is not, so please make sure you now that the roots are ok.

Mike

    Bookmark   September 14, 2014 at 1:58PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, I hope all is well with your mother. Family always comes first, no apologies needed. So, I have not repotted into the 5-1-1 mix yet because I have been concerned about "over shocking" them. So I wanted to wait for your oppinion on that matter. Although when I noticed the leaves began to yellow again, I started misting the foilage in the morning with water and low dose of foilage pro and they almost instantly greened up again!

    Bookmark   September 14, 2014 at 5:07PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another....
This pic seems yellower then they actually are? Maybe the sun light? Not sure. But still no where near as yellow as the last pics I took a few days ago

This post was edited by StickString on Sun, Sep 14, 14 at 17:10

    Bookmark   September 14, 2014 at 5:09PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Blossom pics

    Bookmark   September 14, 2014 at 5:18PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Blossom 2

    Bookmark   September 14, 2014 at 5:19PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Blossom 3

    Bookmark   September 14, 2014 at 5:24PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Stick holy crap!!! I can't believe how good they look...I am so excited for you)))

Listen, don't repot them...Leave them as is and continue to fertilize...ok..
Just keep doing what you are doing and fertilize fertilize..If you have a problem with your mix drying out, use the wicking method to draw moisture away from the pot or use the pot in pot method...This will hold you over until next spring...awesome. They are looking so nice..Love it.

Mike

    Bookmark   September 14, 2014 at 9:10PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, thank you for the compliments! After reading your response earlier this afternoon my wife and I ran out and purchased all ingredients for the 5-1-1 mix. Should I skip repotting into the 5-1-1? Or should I just go ahead and do so considering I have all ingredients?
Again, thank you so much for taking the time our of your day to help me with these two tree's. I have learned ALOT!

    Bookmark   September 14, 2014 at 10:26PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, I don't think I have a choice but to repot Into 511 mix. Last time I watered was 9/9/14. So it's been 6 days, I checked the mix and it is still very damp. No where near being ready for another watering....
Your thoughts ?

    Bookmark   September 15, 2014 at 9:03PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Stick, what's your real name by the way?

Listen, do you have access to bark mulch? Let em know.

I don't mind helping you at all)

MIke

    Bookmark   September 15, 2014 at 9:57PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, my name is Nick. It's very nice to meet you.

Yes, I have access to plenty of pine bark. I can make my own, or purchase at most local hardware stores. I actually have all ingredients here in my home ready to be screened and mixed together.
I have :
Small Nugget Pine Bark
Coarse Perlite (#3)
Miracle Gro Brand Sphagnum Peat Moss
Garden lime
Oscomote Plus

If you feel I should go ahead and re-pot, then I will start screening the bark tomorrow and will try to get a 5-1-1 batch made.

    Bookmark   September 16, 2014 at 1:11AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, should I soak all ingredients prior to mixing together? Or should I mix all ingredients dry and then lightly mist and mix every few hours for a couple days until all ingredients are well moistened and mixed thoroughly?

Thank you

    Bookmark   September 16, 2014 at 5:02PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Lime - 1 Tablespoon per gallon
Oscomote Plus - 1 Tablespoon per Gallon

Is this correct for the 5-1-1 mix?

This post was edited by StickString on Wed, Sep 17, 14 at 15:26

    Bookmark   September 17, 2014 at 3:18PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Hey Nick...You jumping ahead of me but I love the enthusiam))

DO NOT REPOT...YOu can do a simple little trick that will drain your pots of moisture to keep your rots very healthy..

Fill the bottom of a bigger pot that the ones your trees are going to be set into temporarily...Then set your pots on top of that bark mulch..

Fill in around the pot until it fills the pot up...That mulch will wick away any water that you have sitting in the pots your plants are in. It will make a huge difference with dry out time all the while drying your plants outevenly..Moisture is good, and in fact constant evenly light moisture is perfect..

You trees will do just fine until the spring when it's the best time to repot..In fact, if those were my trees, I would not fiddle around with the roots until next year.

Unless after this or the wick method and your mix is still staying too wet, then follow through with a repot as an emergency.

Mike

    Bookmark   September 17, 2014 at 4:42PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Ok mike, I will fill up a larger pot with the same bark I was planning to use for the 5-1-1 mix and place this pot in the center.... Just bark? Nothing else? Do I pre-moisten the bark? Do I water pot while inside of the bark filled pot or do I have to remove it at every watering?

My only fear is the problem I am having is due to the soil mix and perlite have seperated. As I seem to have a lot more perlite on the top of the container, and the bottom half of the container seems like 90% soil. Not the way I originally mixed it up.

This post was edited by StickString on Wed, Sep 17, 14 at 17:42

    Bookmark   September 17, 2014 at 5:25PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

No. it;'s called bark MULCH... Do they sell pine or hemlock bark mulch in a bag for under 5 bucks at Home Depot Lowes or any other place?

It's what you use on your garden beds...It's got a lot of fine peices in it that will suck the moisture from the bottom of your pot...The kind of sifted bark you woud use for the 5.1.1 will not do that...Even dirt in that pot would do you will put the pot in would do.

Let me know.

    Bookmark   September 17, 2014 at 7:27PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, yes I can get bark mulch. I will run to the hardware stores tomorrow and pick up a bag. I will keep you updated.

    Bookmark   September 17, 2014 at 8:50PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, I had a question. The wooden dowels that I have been using for watering. Is it ok that I have been leaving them in the pots and just pull them out once a day to check for moisture? Or should I leave them out of pots until I need them and then stick them into pots?

Thanks.

    Bookmark   September 19, 2014 at 10:36PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, I hope all is well. Just wanted to update you. The tree's are doing great. Showing signs of new growth everywhere and I have been removing 3-5 baby lemons everyday. I will snap some pictures for you soon.

I did have a question for you, would it be ok to continue fertilizing all through winter to maximize growth? Or would it be best to let it be through winter?

    Bookmark   October 3, 2014 at 12:29AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, when I returned home from work today, I walked out back to take a look at my meyers and I noticed some yellowing that I have not seen before. Almost "spotty". I tried to do my research and being that I have been giving them 1 tablespoon of foilage pro per watering (every 2-3 days) instead of the 1 teaspoon that I may be in need of a fresh water flush.
So I ran a lot of clear water through pots in hopes of removing any built up salt that may have accumulated. I also read that if the PH level has dropped below 5.0 then this can also cause the blotchy yellow issue from lack of magnesium. As seen in the picture above, my city water has a average PH of 7.4. Should I be adding white vinegar to my water with the foliage pro. I was under the assumption I should, so I have been adding one cap full of vinager per 1 gal of water / fertilizer. Should I not add the vinager as I read your goal is to obtain a PH of 6-8, which I fall well within that.

Thank you again for everything you have done for me. These tree's would not have made it as far as they have without you

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 9:51PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 9:52PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 9:53PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Another

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 9:54PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Last picture

    Bookmark   October 7, 2014 at 9:55PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Hey Stick!@ I am so sorry I have not kept up with you(

I have been distracted and I will be back tonight to take a look at what you have to say. I also received your e-mail the other day and feel bad about not getting back yet. My intention has been to get back since I read..I will make the time soon..Don't panic over a leaf here and there.

It;s hard for me from my vantage point or not being there to watch your daily activities with these trees to determine what t do at times. but let me think about it and I may have to come back with more questions..We will try our best.

MIke

    Bookmark   October 8, 2014 at 9:43AM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike,
Thank you very much, last night I flushed out their pots as stated above and asked my wife to update me on their conditions this afternoon. She has sent me a few pictures and they seem to be "wilting" or saggy. Can the problem be overwatering? I check them with a wooden dowel before watering and I always wait until where I believe the rootzone is to be dry although the bottom third always seems to be moist at the time of watering. I may not be reading the dowel correctly and could be over watering I suppose.

    Bookmark   October 8, 2014 at 5:31PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

The other

    Bookmark   October 8, 2014 at 5:33PM
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tcamp30144(7B N.ATLANTA)

Before I knew better I grew citrus in pure miracle grow citrus nothing mixed. I lost 2 trees but 3 trees did fine point is Miracle Gro citrus soil is bad but not a death sentence for all trees. It looks like to me the root system is to small for the trees and is struggling to cope. When your tree sprouted new growth the root system wasn't ready for it yet. But for a few weeks your trees look great until the sap demand for new growth tapped out the root system. This stressed the tree out and when u flushed the pots it overwatered it stressing it more. In a nut shell if u let the soil dry out a bit. And carefully water and care for it as Mike said the trees will recover. You will lose a lot of the old leafs but the new groth will replace it. Citrus trees store their energy in their leaves the trees suck energy from old leaves for new growth. That's why the older leafs are yellowing and falling off. I had this happen to a lemon tree once not rooted cutting but a lemon tree. The pot Blu over and it lost like 90 percent of its roots caused the pot broke. Needless to say it did the same thing that your trees are doing it did make a full recovery though and then still live.
Trace

    Bookmark   October 10, 2014 at 8:13PM
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meyermike_1micha(5)

Stick, I am thinking that the temps are getting too cold at night to have a wet mix sitting at the bottom of your trees...?

Then too, the stress of temps below 55 at night causes yellowing..Are your temps consistently remaining abouve let's say, 50 dgrees?

Tracy also made many good points.

MIke

    Bookmark   October 14, 2014 at 4:09PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Mike, I attached a weather report for this week, as you can see, it's obviously not the most accurate report but a general idea. Our low's are averaging 55 with a couple colder nights as of now.

    Bookmark   October 14, 2014 at 4:48PM
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tcamp30144(7B N.ATLANTA)

Mike is right along with what I was saying also if the soil is too cold the citrus roots will not grow big enough to support the tree. Roots hate the grow in cold soggy wet soil I would try a plant heating pad under them to raise the soil temp. Citrus roots stop growing and taking up nutrients if soil is under 55 degrees. Citrus really never goes dormant but it kinda does under 55 degrees.
Trace

    Bookmark   October 14, 2014 at 5:36PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Would wrapping the Christmas tree lights around the pots accomplish warming the roots, or would a plant heating pad be a better idea?

Thank you

    Bookmark   October 14, 2014 at 5:49PM
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tcamp30144(7B N.ATLANTA)

I use heating pads your can get them on Amazon for cheap. Christmas lights u can't control the heat as well. Provided link to one I have.
Trace

Here is a link that might be useful: seed mat

    Bookmark   October 19, 2014 at 12:24AM
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tcamp30144(7B N.ATLANTA)

How are your trees doing.
Trace

    Bookmark   October 30, 2014 at 11:18PM
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stickstring (Northern California 8b)

Tcamp,
Thank you for checking in. Tree's are doing well. Our nights are begining to cool down. I believe we hit 43 last night. I moved my two small meyer cuttinhs inside for the winter and I ordered a mini greenhouse for the two tree's which should arrive tomorrow. I have been trying to baby them along hoping they do well until spring. I will take a picture of them when I get home from work.

    Bookmark   October 31, 2014 at 3:52PM
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