Emerald Beauty Arborvitae

dbalvesMarch 22, 2009

I planted 48 Emerald Beauty Arborvitae in late October according to what the tag said I should do. I did not fertilize them at the time. Some are starting to turn brown at the bottom of them and they are also starting to have that hollow look to them. (They aren't full) I guess is the best way to explain it. Is there something that I can you that would encourage them to have the full look to them? Also what type of fertilizer should I use?

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

48 ball and burlap .... you didnt expect a 100% success rate.. did you????

it is hard to tell the difference between winter burn and dying plants.. on words alone ... some browning might be normal.. other might be dying plants ...

how big were they .... the bigger the plant.. the harder transplant is ...

what zone are you ..

what is your soil

did you mulch them ...

no fert on a stressed tree.. proper watering is more important... do not water until the soil starts to warm or dry.. insert finger to determine ...

maybe some fert in early june .... but not that much

did you have a soil test ..

i wouldnt be concerned with the being sparse ... they will have a few decades to fill in.. once they get 'established' ...

any chance at a picture...

perhaps you are expecting a little too much.. from something you planted a few weeks before winter...

now.. worst of all.. maybe.. how did the tag tell you to plant them????

how did you water.. did you mulch.. and when in october ... how long there after did winter come along ... it came fast hard and early here .... which could have been a problem if you planted in very late october ...

proper watering for the rest of the summer.. would be better than any amount of fertilizer ....


    Bookmark   March 22, 2009 at 6:25PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Thanks Ken for your response.

I saved a couple extra just in case not all 48 survived...

I bought the plants they were about 3-4 ft. tall already.

I'm in Massachusetts and winter didn't really come until like mid December is when we got a first snow storm.

I put peat moss on the bottom of the hole and some around the plant.. and I mulched them as well. before I planted i gave them a good soaking the night before and I watered the hole i planted them in pretty good to.

My concern is that I guess i don't want to "overcare" for them and end up killing them for trying different things. But I also don't want to do anything and have them die either. So I'm at a miss as what to do.

I was going to at the end of april beginning of may buy those Miracle-gro fertilizer sticks that you stick in the ground but wasnt' sure if it was a good idea after reading some forums.

Am I reading to much into this??

    Bookmark   March 23, 2009 at 10:21PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
midwest_dave(5b - IL)

I planted 19 pyramidal arbs in July 2007. It was the hot part of the summer and watering was key for mine. I also wanted to fertilize but did not. They were around 8 feet tall when I planted and saw some of the things you're describing.

Despite using a ball cart these guys took a little work to move around and I ended up snapping some of the branches. They didn't rip off and there wasn't noticable damage at the time but many weeks later dead spots started to appear. I was trying to only grab the root ball but must have tried for the trunk on a few and they're just too bushy to get only the trunk and not some branches with it. Since pruning off these dead spots they've filled in nicely. Mulch and water seemed to be the best for mine, I don't think they like wet feet (or dry spells until established) and you should pull back the mulch, check soil before watering. I found it easiest to run a soaker hose along the line and cover it with mulch.

As to the thinning, mine did the same and was told they drop they're 3rd year leaves/needles. Seems like they drop more the first year (from transplant shock?) as they didn't drop as much this past fall/winter. There's new growth starting which will probably thicken them up a little but I don't think a lot of interior growth will return, just how they are. Most of the needles it dropped were blown out by wind but a few had clumps stuck in the branches and a decent pile at the bottom. The OCD in me cleaned these up and pulled away from the base. 19 was a chore, 48 would be worse although yours are shorter and might not be an issue. Nature usually takes care of itself.

Pets peeing on them will cause black/brown, needle drop also if you have a dog that likes to use them.

Only time will tell, I hesitate to fertilize, when in doubt, don't.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2009 at 12:13PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

for what good those spikes will do.. IMHO .. just send me the money ... the impact will be the same regardless ... how many years do you think it might take for the plant to find the spike and utilize it???? .. and surely you wouldnt go pounding them into the rootball ...

was the peat damp before use???

whats your soil type ??? any clay issues ...????

we usually say no amendments... if you used water-repellant dry peat... you may have created a problem ...

take a small trowel .. and dig NEAR one of the rootballs [not into it] ... and find out how the soil is reacting ...

3 to 4 foot.. not bad... glad they werent 8 footers ... and good for you for getting some spares.. that usually means 100% success, then the problem of getting rid of extras ... lol ....

mulch???? if not.. mulch them properly ... after you refill a couple exploration holes ...

and keep them properly watered for 2 years ...

by that time.. if they are anywhere near the lawn.. and you fert the lawn.. they will get whatever they need ...

IMHO ... unless you a soil test indicates something is lacking in the soil.. trees and shrubs do NOT need food ... they are trees.. not babies ...

you basically planted dormant stock .. that went to winter.. and is basically still dormant ... or barely moving.. lower your expectations ....the only concern is total browning ... which will be avoided by proper watering ...

most conifers prefer to nearly dry between waterings ... though arbs can be very forgiving .... so avoid drowning them also ....


    Bookmark   March 24, 2009 at 12:44PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Ideas for watering a hedge, no waterline avail- all by hand....
Unsure why I didn't think twice, but I just planted...
Leyland Cypress in containers? What can I do with them?
(Zone 7a - Northern Virginia. Winter temperatures usually...
Thuja green giant look at this picture
Hi I bought 13 Thuja Green Giants and planted them...
Fast growing conifers?
A lovely wooded lot next to us recently sold. The new...
yellowing of emerald arborvitae
I have several emerald arborvitaes that are turning...
Sponsored Products
Leuven Diamonds Outdoor Area Rug
$175.00 | FRONTGATE
Kids Microfiber Rich Teal 84-Inch Tall Blackout Window Curtain Panel
$19.95 | Bellacor
Paw Prints Holly Holiday Stocking
The City Farm
Bright Red Apothecary Table Lamp
$99.99 | Lamps Plus
Serena & Lily Border Frame Sham
Serena & Lily
Darya Rugs Oushak, Beige, 2'5" x 9'10" Runner Rug M1776-18
Darya Rugs
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™