meyer lemon tree dropping leaves

mamiewebDecember 13, 2006

My meyer improved lemon tree is about a foot high. I purchased it this spring and it had blooms on it. Now, it has three, just larger than golf ball, sized lemons on it. They are just beginning to turn yellow. Some of the leaves are getting yellow spots and dropping off and others are just dropping off. It is in a pot indoors in an east facing window. I'm in Idaho and it is winter. It probably gets maybe 60 degrees by that window at night. Maybe a little colder? I don't know what I'm doing wrong. It's done well until just about a month ago. Thanks for any info.

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the closer I look at my meyer lemon tree...the leaves are turning yellow while leaving green spots. its also getting thorns I bought it from a reputable nursery and it has a monrovia tag on it. do I prune the branches that all the leaves have fallen off? thanks

    Bookmark   December 22, 2006 at 9:00AM
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It might have an iron deficiency (leaves are usually pale yellow with slightly green veins), or is getting watered too much. I'd check for a vitamin deficiency. Don't worry about pruning the branches (unless they are brown and dead looking, the leaves will sprout from the branches once it gets back to normal). If you go to I think they sell some citrus plant food. Good luck! :)

    Bookmark   December 22, 2006 at 3:28PM
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It needs humid air. The absolute worst thing (and the most common) that folks North (I am zone 5, Kansas) do is bring in there citrus indoors for Winter.
Take it out to the garage and if your garage has a window, try to leave it to where it gets some sun, doesn't have to be a lot.
Citrus needs about a month or so with temps below 50's and humid air. Your air in your house is WAY to dry.
Last year lost almost EVERY leaf on my citrus. Somebody told me this and I thought they were crazy to have me leave it out in the garage. But I took the advice and I have lost maybe 6-8 leaves so far this winter.
On days when the sun is bright, and 50's, I leave outside, just remember to bring it in at night. But the big thing, DO NOT BE AFRAID to let it get cold. It needs time to rest and then grow just like every other tree.

    Bookmark   December 24, 2006 at 12:51PM
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Of all my citrus trees, my meyer lemon is the only one blooming (and it's less than a foot tall, just a stick!). I have it next to my papyrus plant (that one stands in water). Maybe that is why it is getting enough humidity.

    Bookmark   December 26, 2006 at 4:55PM
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Thanks so much for the help. the humidity is probably to low. it is extremely dry here. I'm in a Zone 4. 20's during the day. Sometimes lots colder Is that too cold to put it outdoors? Any other way to increase the humidity around that plant?

    Bookmark   December 28, 2006 at 4:06PM
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gardner_dragon(z7 NE AR)

An Improved Meyers lemon will die if subjected to temps below 35 for very long(more than a few hours).

Check the soil of your plant. Is it WET at depths of below 2 inches? Citrus plants don't use very much water during their somewhat dormant(slow growing)periods. If the soil is wet it could be rotting the roots.

To raise the humidity you can run a small humidifier near the plant. You can boil water on your stove(adds humidity to the whole house). Keep vents from blowing on the plant.

You should also move the plant out of DIRECT sunlight. The sunlight heats up the leaf surface and the roots can't cool it off fast enough. Check the temp of the roots if possible, they should be above 60 to function correctly.

    Bookmark   December 28, 2006 at 6:50PM
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hopflower(z8/z15 CA Sunset)

Ok. First, they need to be warm; even in winter. Move it away from cold winter windows during the night. Indoor temperatures of about 65 F are ideal. If you have an indoor/outdoor one, you might need anything from 60F indoors to 85 F outdoors, got best (of course) in summer.

Key elements for success are good light, adequate humidity indoors in the winter, well-drained potting soil, additional nutrients, and consistent watering. Take any one of those away and you have problems.

Water as needed to keep soil moist, not soggy. Generally 1/4 - 1/2 gallon of water every 5-7 days indoors is adequate. Do not leave the container in standing water. A moisture meter, available at garden supply stores, will read moisture at the root level. They are not expensive and you do not have to guess how much water is down there.

Misting your citrus daily will help with humidity needs.

Yellowing leaves indicate lack of fertilizer or poor drainage. For feeding, use a ratio of high nitrogen as citrus rely heavily on it. Miracid Soil Acidifier is a water-soluble product that works well and is readily available; but you can use any citrus food just follow the directions carefully.

    Bookmark   December 31, 2006 at 9:13PM
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suzannesks(z 7 WA.)

mamie...citrus can take temps 32 to 35 degrees.They are like any other tree..they need a cooling down peroid so your citrus by the window at 62 degrees is fine and dandy!Just mist your citrus every day or put it in the shower a couple of times a week,thats all it needs with the artificial heat we are subjected to durning the winter.And feed it,look for a citrus food...I buy Whitney Farms Citrus & Avacado food and it's a wonderful product.I also feed my citrus (4) times yearly...they NEED to eat.Then they will reward you plenty.***Suzanne

    Bookmark   January 2, 2007 at 10:15AM
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Thanks so much for all of the tips. Mamie

    Bookmark   January 3, 2007 at 12:58PM
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tobina(Zone 8)

I am keeping 3 small Improved Meyer Lemon trees on a heat mat in my garage under a grow light. I don't THINK I've been over-watering, but I did just water them 2 days ago. Now one (and only one) of the trees is dropping leaves like mad. Interestingly, they are old leaves...two strong new branches have big leaves that are doing just fine. This particular tree is one of two that I left in the 1-gallon pots I bought them in. The tree is also most directly under the grow light of the three.

Do these trees need fertilizer in the winter??? I haven't fertilized them (though I have citrus/avocado granulara fertilizer) since the summertime. Should I remove the heat mat beneath the trees? My garage is NOT cold. I'm seeing quite a bit of conflicting advice regarding heat/cold and growth v. dormancy in the winter and am not sure what to do...

    Bookmark   January 5, 2008 at 10:06PM
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I purchased a meyer lemon tree about 2 years ago and have had problems with mine as well and after asking questions, reading and experience I've learned that LEAF DROP IS NORMAL. It's not because of deficiency or really anything you're not doing. To care for a Meyer Lemon a few things are required: (1) They require lots of HUMIDITY so when the weather changes and you bring them inside your home, due to central air, it doesn't have enough. Spraying them often (water in spray bottle)can help, but not enough. I've even tried a humidifier and still not enough. I haven't tried the rocks in a drain pan but you can guess what I'm going to say. If you live in a cold climate such as zones 7 and above, the plant has to come inside for winter. The drastic changes will probably cause it to drop its leaves but it's not dead. Since I live in southern Louisiana where it obviously has very mild winters, I have learned to just keep my tree outside. Even when we have the occasional freezes, my tree tree has done very well and it is in a large 20 gallon pot. I do mulch around it in the pot which keeps it from drying out too fast during the summer and it protects the tree when it freezes in winter. As well during it's new growth phase (March, April, May) I fertilize with the fertilizer stakes. You hammer the stakes into the soil around the tree. Not too close, to the base of the tree come out to where the crown of the tree reaches. (2) CITRUS NEED LOTS OF SUN. During winter there's not much of it. Be sure its the south facing window. No matter, when the weather changes to this, the tree will go into a dormant state the same as all trees and plants do, which will cause some leaves to drop.(3)THE MORE COMMON REASON FOR THE LEAF DROP IS A LITTLE NUISANCE CALLED THE SPIDER-MITE. DON'T THROW OUT YOUR TREE THE LEAVES WILL GROW BACK. Inside/Outside, Summer/Winter, rural/city it doesn't matter they are going to attack your tree. They aren't even the size of a grain of rice and are several different colors. I've seen red, silver and green so far attack my tree. I check it everyday and try to get them off. You'll know because if you look closely you will see what looks like a spider web in or around the branches. Another sign is look at the leaves and if you have spotting of yellow or lime green that is the mites sucking the chlorophyll from the leaf in turn the leaf dies and drops. If you shake your tree a little bit you can see them fall down the same way a spider does. The only way to get rid of these, which may only be temporarily, is to wet the entire tree and then spray with an insecticidal SOAP (be sure to get all parts of the branches above and under leaves) The other(organic)oil based products just don't work. The soap doesn't harm anything or your fruit; just wash the lemon before you use it, which you you don't eat the outside of the lemon anyway. (4) IF YOU FERTILIZE, properly water and let it get at least 6 hours of sun a day; it's growth and health will eventually surpass any damage that the spider mites can do it and it will no longer drop it's leaves. You'd be surprised how much ctirus trees can take. Plus remember this is the IMPROVED Meyer Lemon, it's grown to more resilient than other citrus trees.

    Bookmark   March 31, 2008 at 2:47PM
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Tobina, where do you live? Which state/country? If temps, during winter months, don't exceed under 35-40F at night, your citrus should be okay w/o a heat mat.
If 32 and colder, the heat mat helps, (the object is preventing roots from freezing) I agree citrus do better in cool temperatures. Too hot, especially after bringing indoors, you've got major problems with insects and dry air..

Garden Pearl, did you mean to say, cold climates, zone 7 and under???
I use a home-made concoction to rid mites, (dish soap, garlic, citrus rind)...this stuff knocks them dead.. :) Toni

    Bookmark   March 31, 2008 at 11:08PM
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hello, toni, that sounds like interesting concotion. I must try it. do you soak the garlic and citrus rind for awhile before spraying? and how long does it keep or do you make up fresh everytime? I have follwed your advice re FE in the fall and it worked really well. thanks.

    Bookmark   April 2, 2008 at 4:42PM
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I have a Meyer lemon tree I purchased from Home Depot last summer. It's still in its original 3.4 gal pot. I kept it outside until it got cold, then put it in the greenhouse. But our greenhouse isn't heated so when it got down into the mid 20's outside at night, I wrapped it in a frost blanket and turned a light bulb on it. It started not looking so good (the leaves started to curl) so I brought it indoors and put it in a south-east-west facing window (windows on 3 sides) and it really perked up. It grew 3 new branches with thorns below the graft which I cut off. Then it started blooming like crazy. There are now maybe too many lemons on it. (I also have a post about too many lemons from hand-pollinating). I'm going to bring it back outside when nighttime temps are reliably above freezing. But it is doing okay inside even though I don't spray it.

    Bookmark   April 7, 2008 at 1:36PM
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My husband and I bought a Meyer Lemon in February from a garden shop. It had just come in, was dark glossy green and FULL of lemons. We harvested over the next few weeks and did our homework to make sure our new baby was happy. As we are in Salem, OR, the weather is... odd. So we kept him in the garage at night when it was cooler.

This spring and summer, I thought we were doing well. The leaves were beautiful, growth was occurring, and the most beautiful and fragrant bloom occured!

I haven't been tending to the outdoors as of late, but my husband has. He called me out tonight in frustration as he just doesn't know what to do.

Look at our poor baby!

The ground around is littered with yellowed dropped leaves!

Teeny yellow fruit are on but of course the plant is in dire straights, so I don't imagine those will mature.

This looks like a nitrogen issue... should we just use miracle grow, or should I get some bloodmeal or...

I don't want to OVERDO whatever I do, causing more problem.

    Bookmark   July 27, 2008 at 11:50PM
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I have two lemon trees (one Meyer) and one orange tree- all in pots. The Orange is fine but both lemons starting dropping massive amounts of seemingly healthy leaves two days ago.
The trees just stopped blooming. Also about 10 days ago I had a gardener in who sprayed and fertilized. He told me to spray again about now. Both trees were planted last August.
I believe that's all the pertinent information.

    Bookmark   March 1, 2009 at 9:39AM
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My meyer lemon had frost damage this year. The leaves fell off but it is still green and the branches seem has started growing some branches from the first I thought they were suckers but suckers usually grow from the base ...right? Is it a gonner? Thanks

    Bookmark   May 15, 2010 at 9:41AM
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what are suckers and what do I do to them. I bought my Meyer Lemon Tree in March at a reputable florist. I think it's doing good. It's flowering and kept in full sun during the day. I took some advice and raised the pot so it's sitting on rocks so the ant's can't get to it. I also put some coffee grinds on the soil and that has kept the ant's away. I don't know if I should change the pot yet. When will I know it's time? And when do I fertilize it? I used some Miracle-Gro about 3 weeks ago and I water it daily. I have been reading posts and don't want to kill my tree. I'm not a great gardener and this is all new to me. Also, should I prune? Thanks, joedsgirl

    Bookmark   June 27, 2010 at 10:22AM
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No need to prune uless you want it a certain height, width, or shape..

The "suckers" or growth you do not want is that coming from the below the graft line of your grafted portion, or the growth below that line will "suck" the life out of the growth above the grafted line, in particular, your favorite part of the tree.

You will know it is time to repot when your soil has collasped and stays wet too long, when your tree shows symptoms of diminished growth, leaf dicoloration, when the soil mix dries out to fast, when the mix no longer holds water, when the roots start coming out of the bottom of the pot, when the roots start to reach out of the soil on the top, and etc....

A Bostonian? I am from Lowell, just south of Nashua,New Hampshire..Make sure your tree catches some good ole rain from the thunderstorms headed our way for the next few days..

Welcome to these forums and have fun...


    Bookmark   June 27, 2010 at 12:26PM
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I have a young improved Meyer that I bought in April and also a 4 1/2" Ponderosa Tree. I live in Fort Worth, TX and both did wonderful in the spring and through our very hot, hot summer. Currently they are in the garage with a citrus navel which also did great during the season. We leave them out front on sunny days over 45 degrees so they can get the southern sun. However, the past few days were below that and they have been in the garage. Now all the green leaves are curling and drooping down on all three. They all have their vit/min sticks for the winter and I've been careful about watering 1x a week and spritzing the leaves (which they all love!). So what can I do? I can't bring them indoors due to my puppy who tries to eat everything and I hate that they aren't getting the sun they need. Suggestions are very, very welcomed. Thanks all!

    Bookmark   December 18, 2010 at 5:29PM
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The very first thing most of us are always concerned with is the mix..

How long does it take for your mix to dry out after a watering thoroughly and what kind is it? How fast does it drain? Is it porous or compacted?

Next as a side thought, I would remove those fertilizer sticks immediately..
You do not want to damage the fine roots with the salts that stay in the kix with those sticks that are of no use when the roots to your plant are too cold to even utilize the fertilizer in that amount..

Can you post pictures?

It all depends on your mix and whether the roots are taking up moisture correctly...Lets' take it from here. it sounds like something is no enabling water uptake, unless you you of course have wiped out the pest possibility sucking the moisture out of your leaves..

If anyone else has an idea, they will be here..But I would fix the problem asap..

    Bookmark   December 18, 2010 at 6:01PM
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First pic is navel, second is ponderosa and third is improved meyer.

I've taken the min/vit stakes out. I know the soil is a citrus/palm as per the garden specialist we dealt with back in April. We have rocks on the bottom of all and the water drains well. I got 2 gorgeous lemons off the Ponderosa that just grew all summer and just this weekend they were picked. The meyer gave me 1 lemon over the summer which was picked in Oct. Before we put them in the garage, there were 15 blooms coming out on it. We never got a fruit from the navel but it grew close to 6" over the summer the leaves were gorgeous.

    Bookmark   December 18, 2010 at 7:20PM
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Once they post, we can get a better look..:-)

    Bookmark   December 18, 2010 at 9:03PM
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greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a

Mike is absolutely correct about removing those vitamin stakes and improving the soil.
I'm glad you've removed the stakes.

Secondly, a layer of gravel/stones at the bottom of the pot does not create drainage.
It actuall raises the level of perched water in the container - basically, it raises
the height of the saturated soil at the bottom of the pot immediately above the stones.
This means that less of the soil is available for healthy roots.


    Bookmark   December 18, 2010 at 9:15PM
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Your leaves are dehydrated, but the branches look ok...

How the water comes out from the bottom does not always mean it drains well..The rocks serve no purpose except to take up root space and weigh your pots down...

What I meant was, how fast does the water come out from the containers from the time you start to water if the mix is completely dry?
How long does it take for the mix to dry out in the cold temps?

There could be you answer if not to late...If it is taking a "long" time to dry out, then you need to find a way to warm your plants up to growing stage, over 55 degrees, and put plastic bags over them to keep the leaves hydrated for the time being. Can you heat the containers up with heat pads to keep the roots functioning along with lot's of sunlight? If you had them in a porous mix, none of this would of been an issue come fall to the spring..

This is the very issues we try to avoid with bagged mixes...That mix you are using in no good for the winter at those cold temps..That in fact is the worst mix once the cold weather and lack of light sets in.. You were given bad advice..:-(

They are dehydrated and therefore something is preventing the trees from taking up water, starting at the root zone..Possible rot rot developing in those cold temps?
Possible under watering? Did you possibly let them get to dry, then water?
How often do you have to water..?Please let us know..

Have you checked for spider mites? Another cause for dehydrated leaves.

Hopefully it is not to late to save them.

Here is the thing Karen: Do not believe it is the cold temps that did this alone, since many can hold citrus over in conditions colder than that all winter without a hitch..It is almost always related to the mix which causes root rot, under or over watering practices, or pest's..

Hopefully it's not too late to correct this problem, since the branches look ok..You need to something quickly though..


    Bookmark   December 18, 2010 at 9:31PM
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TXStarr(8 (California High Desert))

It's Karen 8, I just joined up. It's not a layer of rocks or pebbles. We put 2-3 garden rocks in there just to break up the bottom. The containers they are all in are deep and the roots have plenty of room. We are very careful with the water and they all drain very well.

The garden expert suggested the Vigoro 15 ct. Fruit, Nut & Citrus Fertilizer Spikes which we started them all with in April. I didn't add a new one until Thanksgiving weekend. We also used the Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Palm, Cactus & Citrus.

The Meyer took off like a bottle rocket after 2-3 weeks and started spreading out and stayed green with absolutely no problems. The Ponderosa had 3 blooms that started 24 hrs after we brought it home which all became gorgeous lemons that I just picked last week. Leaves were beautiful all summer even during the weeks we had triple digits. The Navel had a teeny bloom that fell off in a weeks time and also had great growth of new green leaves and even grew a few inches. However, in September, my husband saw some worms crawling around on a couple of leaves that did turn brown but after they were trimmed off, we never saw them again.

It wasn't until we were worried about the freezing weather that we brought them in to the garage. We were wary about that too but I read that young citrus trees are susceptible to freezes and trunks can splinter and crack not to mention about what could happen with the roots. I actually wanted to get burlap and wrap all of them including the pots so they could still get good air and sun during the day.

I'm lost, I'll admit it. These are our first trees and we want them to grow and be healthy and strong. I appreciate everyones advice and am very thankful for all of you taking time out to help this tree momma novice.

    Bookmark   December 18, 2010 at 10:04PM
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greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a

Hey, Karen!
I'm glad to hear that it's not a gravel layer, but rather a few large rocks.
I assumed the rocks and the drainage were correlated from the proximity in the sentence.
Glad to know they're not.

To revisit an earlier point by Mike: bagged, Miracle Grow soil is simply not a good choice.
It's difficult to work, leading to much frustration and sometimes feelings of failure.

When I started growing succulents, I made the mistake of buying Cactus & Succulent soil....
lo! and behold, the main ingredient was actually peat moss. That's the last thing I wanted.
Thereafter, I was forced to make my own potting mixes because I couldn't find anything
appropriate in a bag on the shelves.

To determine the moisture in the lower part of the pot, place a chop-stick or kabob skewer
as deep as you can, wait a few minutes, and remove it to check for moisture.
(If you've already heard this advice, I apologize for the repetition).
This is an easy method that many of us use for our Citrus and other plants.


    Bookmark   December 18, 2010 at 10:30PM
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Hi. I'm very sorry that I haven't had the time to read the whole topic, but from the pictures I must say that I had an identical problem. And if it's the same as my case, then your tree is definitely lacking water. Look at mine:

And after a very thorough watering:

I suggest that you water your tree VERY thoroughly, maybe even put the pot in a bucket full of water.

    Bookmark   December 20, 2010 at 5:48AM
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TXStarr(8 (California High Desert))

UPDATE: Can I just say thank you all!?!?!?!!!!! Okay, so I took the vit/min stakes out immediately after reading. Yesterday it was 60 outside only going down to about 45 last night. I moved the soil around a bit on top and then gave each plant a nice watering. About 4 hours later I went out and fine misted the leaves. I have to say, the navel was already looking like it's old self again. Left them out all night and this morning, everyone is looking happy and perky! Leaves are up and nobody is drooping. No more reading other sites that say to cut back on watering during the winter to only 1x a week. It's going to be in the low 70s all this week so they are outside in the sun. How is it that the stakes didn't effect them when we first used them in April? I'm curious to hear your thoughts on that. I'm going to look into the soil as suggested. Do you think it would be wise to do this in the winter though? I'm dedicated to this site now.

Once again, thank you all. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

    Bookmark   December 20, 2010 at 10:23AM
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"They are dehydrated and therefore something is preventing the trees from taking up water, starting at the root zone..Possible rot rot developing in those cold temps?
Possible under watering?"

Hi Karen: What did you decide the problem was? Was in under watering, was it to cold? Was it just the fertilizer sticks? was it warmer days?

You need to know this in order to prevent this from re-occuring. I hope your plants keep up and grow well for you once the COLD strikes again..

Take care and welcome to this forum;-)))


    Bookmark   December 20, 2010 at 6:20PM
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greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a

The worthy visitor sees much...
One needn't look far to find copious pics of our citrus.
Just check the November and December plant update Threads.


    Bookmark   December 20, 2010 at 9:22PM
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call_me_wizfire(7b Central Arkansas)

with all due respect plant48, you have just insulted some of the most knowlagable people on this forum, i have seen all their pictures, which are great in number, and their plants are beautiful and happy. I have accused them of having special plant growing powers they were so great. and to address to topics you brought my experience, coconut coir has lead to not although not dead plants, but half-dead, drooping, wilting, dying yellowing plants. And also, from personal experience, i try to limit peat moss in my plant soil mixes, although i dont ger rid of it entirely, i have never used the gritty or soiless mixes, but i have seen many pictures of plants in both and they are great and thriving. I would like to see pictures in your plants if you are using coir. If your plants do good in it, its a miracle or your doing very lucky.

Wishing you Much happiness and luck growing plants

    Bookmark   December 21, 2010 at 10:43PM
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Plant48..Let me make this easy for you so you can't say I never helped.. Josh is right, you don't have to look far, infact even closer than you think.

Andrew and Josh...Fantastic points made and your plants are clear proof that less is best when it comes to peat, and none is best when it comes to coir..

Thank you for your good points..

TXstar: Once again..Fantastic work and I hope they do very well for you..


    Bookmark   December 22, 2010 at 3:13PM
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Simply keep the plant out side until it gets cold out but protect it. Bring it in at that point and put it in a cold room with sun light. Water and fertilize-occasionally. Mine thrives this way. In fact, right now it is loaded with flower buds and I have not lost a half dozen leaves all winter.

    Bookmark   March 26, 2011 at 4:32PM
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I have a problem with fruit dropping from the tree, the leaves look good and I live in florida so there is plenty of sun! What could be causing this

    Bookmark   June 12, 2011 at 3:15PM
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I live in New york, i got a Lemon tree as a gift i am not sure if its a meyer its very large on the Top a few months ago i transplanted the tree in a large Pot with Miracle grow soil and it was very healthy i only got 1 lemon but it feel off and i haven't had any since I try to fertilize every 15 days with Miracle grow in a water can and then water completely the plant sites on a black top driveway and i was watering almost everyday because it was very hot and humid the last 2 days has been cooler and i have noticed that the tips are yellow and a few fell off what do you think the problem is

    Bookmark   August 14, 2011 at 8:32PM
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mksmth zone 6b Tulsa Oklahoma(6b)

The problem with miracle grow in a pot is it holds way too much moisture and can cause root rot. Yellow leaves are usually the first sign of this being a problem. This time of year is a tricky time to re pot since it wont be too long before you would need to bring it in. You "could" leave it alone until next spring but you will have to be very very careful about overwatering.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2011 at 2:37PM
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Do you i should try and repot it before it gets
Worse i put in my garage to dry it out also what
A good fertilzer i can get

    Bookmark   August 15, 2011 at 4:58PM
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My dwarf lemon was replanted in miracle gro citrus, cactus, and palm soil, it currently is in a greenhouse, and the leaves are pale green with yellow spots. Late summer and early fall brought us 3 lemons. I just got this tree this summer from Lowes and I want to learn as much as I can so it don't kill it :) What could be causing the pale yellow spotted leaves? thanks

    Bookmark   November 6, 2013 at 3:52PM
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Please start a new post with this question; and post photos, if you want a better answer.
Just scroll down on the page to where you can post a message; give it a new title, add a photo if you can, and ask the same question.


    Bookmark   November 6, 2013 at 7:12PM
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I am trying to do some research to save my Meyer Lemon tree. I bought it this past June from Logee's. It spent the summer outside.
I brought the plant in in October (zone 5 MI). The leaves began yellowing some.
I made some Al's gritty mix and repotted 2 weeks ago. I teased potting mix from the outermost roots, but left the main part of the root ball undisturbed. Now the plant has very yellow leaves except near the top. Some buds have formed and one blossom is open. Many many leaves have fallen off.
Have I killed my lemon tree?

    Bookmark   December 14, 2013 at 3:15PM
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greenman28 NorCal 7b/8a

Unfortunately, the old soil around the root-ball and the new Gritty Mix will hold moisture differently and will dry differently, leading to compounding issues with your Citrus. Not much you can do about that now, short of properly re-potting your tree. Take also into account that this is very late in the season to be doing root-work, even if the potting had been done correctly. Not many options that don't involve further stressing the tree.

Now that it's been a couple weeks, have you fertilized?


    Bookmark   December 14, 2013 at 11:58PM
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I added some manure smelling citrus fertilizer to the gritty mix according to the potting directions for the fertilizer. So I am reluctant to fertilize more. I did stick a chopstick into the peaty area and it is slightly moist.

It sounds like my options are very limited right now. I can carefully water the center area once a week.

1. Should I add a dilute fertilizer to the water?

2. I thought our tap water was too alkaline so am watering right now with distilled water. Is this OK?

3. Should I attempt to pot yet again?

I am really sorry I did not read the rest of the meyer lemon postings before acting.

    Bookmark   December 15, 2013 at 9:03AM
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I recently got a meyer lemon tree n have been having problems with it. within a couple days the leaves started drying n curled up. I recently put her under a 250watt cfl with a humidifier next to her. some of the leaves look ok but others look dry n dead. I think its because of a sucker branch but I cannot find the graft line and I dnt want to cut the branch off until I know for sure. can anyone plz help save my tree!?!

    Bookmark   January 30, 2014 at 6:37AM
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I recently got a meyer lemon tree n have been having problems with it. within a couple days the leaves started drying n curled up. I recently put her under a 250watt cfl with a humidifier next to her. some of the leaves look ok but others look dry n dead. I think its because of a sucker branch but I cannot find the graft line and I dnt want to cut the branch off until I know for sure. can anyone plz help save my tree!?!

    Bookmark   January 31, 2014 at 3:34AM
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My Meyer Lemon tree has gradually lost all of its leaves. Will it revive when I can put it outdoors next Spring? Should I continue to water it every few weeks?

    Bookmark   February 17, 2015 at 1:05PM
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BarbJP CA 15-16/9B

nina 313 and bdeller1, you each should start a new thread to get good answers to your questions. Tagging onto an old post will get you a lot less replies. People look at the start date and figure the subject of the post is no longer relevant.

nina, we could use some better pics of the whole tree, and bdeller, we need pics from you too.

Each person's own thread should include info about your watering habits, how much and how often.

Any fertilizer or anything else you've added, how much, when and why.

How long you've owned it.

Also give info about the soil your tree is in; original from nursery, or re-potted, brand and/or ingredients of the soil.

Is it kept indoors or outdoors, indoors only in winter, outdoors in summer, and if indoors, what kind of light, ie in front of window(window direction), or grow lights or combination.

Help us help you. : )

Also, if you start your own thread, you can track answers to it in your "your houzz" area.

    Bookmark   February 17, 2015 at 1:46PM
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