60 fig cutting to be buried

jolj(7b/8a)January 2, 2012

I got 32 brown fig cutting about 14 inches long.

I was told to cut them 6-7 inches long & bury then buds down in a hole til late March or April.

What do you think?

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This process has been mentioned for area where the sun rays can warm-up the top soil where the rooting end of the cutting is. The remaining part of the cutting stays deep in relatively colder part of the soil so bud formation is not expedited. The relatively warm soil near the rooting end helps form initials or small roots. In spring the cuttings are dug out and re-planted normally with the rooting end down, in pots or ground, This gives them a head-start.
The process would not help in colder areas where the cuttings can freeze to death.

    Bookmark   January 2, 2012 at 8:16PM
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tapla (mid-MI z5b-6a)

I've mentioned/described the method several times, and it will work well in your zone. I regularly treat a variety of deciduous cuttings this way. It should work fine in zones 5 & above, but be sure to bury them in a sunny spot. Dig them up and transplant when either figs or mulberry trees in the landscape start to put on their spring flush of growth.


    Bookmark   January 4, 2012 at 1:58PM
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wisner_gw wisner

This web site explains the method you are talking about. http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/extension/fruit/figs/figs.html

    Bookmark   January 4, 2012 at 9:46PM
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wertach zone 7-B SC

Glad that I found this! I am planning to prune my very old fig tree this weekend and was trying to figure out what to do with all of those trimmings.

    Bookmark   January 5, 2012 at 12:07PM
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Tapla ,
How deep are you burying those fig cuttings in zone 5 ?

    Bookmark   January 5, 2012 at 12:45PM
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tapla (mid-MI z5b-6a)

I usually take cuttings with 5-6 nodes. I cut the proximal end (closest to roots) square & the distal end diagonally so I don't get polarity mixed. I bundle the cuttings together & secure with rubber bands, then bury the cuttings so they are vertical, proximal end up, so the proximal end is about 2-3" below the soil's surface.

The spring sun warms the proximal end because it's close to the soil's surface, and this helps stimulate root formation and growth. At the same time, the cooler temperatures deeper in the soil inhibit bud movement; helpful because it's better to have working roots BEFORE the cuttings push leaf growth.

Make sure you mark where the cuttings are buried, and plan on retrieving them in spring when the fig or mulberry trees in the landscape start to put on the spring flush. Keep any roots that have formed moist, & pot up or plant cuttings out.


    Bookmark   January 5, 2012 at 3:50PM
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Wertech, that is how I got my cuttings.
The owner prunes heavy, then lightly the second & third year. Then heavy again the four year, because the tree is growing into the drive way.
He has done this for about 15 years, now.
He said I could have all the cutting I wanted, but I only took a hand full.
He roots,grafts & plants all the time.
Thanks everyone.

    Bookmark   January 7, 2012 at 11:51AM
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I dug up the cuttings & one bundle was rotten, with white fungus on it.
I may have left them in the ground too long in this warm Spring.
The other bundle has roots & white leaves tips.

    Bookmark   May 12, 2012 at 1:08PM
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cro_smokva(5 Hamilton)

how did cuttings in your 2012 bundle do?

    Bookmark   March 9, 2014 at 3:53PM
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