Rose Cones for Winter Protection?

willio11August 3, 2010

Hi All,

I live in zone 4b/5a and this summer I added some new zone-iffy conifers to my garden. These include Picea orientalis "Silver Seedling" and Abies nordmanniana "Golden Spreader". I usually just spray Wilt Pruf and burlap the iffy ones for the winter (from late November to late March), but was wondering if you thought that a Rose Cones would be better since they seem to be more insulated than just burlap? The only issue I might have with them if not getting enough air circulation...

Also, I see "Golden Spreader" listed as both zone 5 and 6 at different places. Does anyone know if this one is indeed a zone 5?

And lastly, last year some things that were supposed to be hardy for my area had some significant winter die-back. These include Abies concolor "Candicans", Picea abies "Vermont Gold" and Pinus leucodermis "Irish Bell". These were all bought from garden centers that get their stock from the Pacific Northwest. Do you think they died back so severely because they weren't used to Upper Midwest winters? Do you think that this winter they will come through better?

Thanks a lot,

Mitch

Here is a link that might be useful: Rose Cones

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
gardener365(5b Illinois USA)

Temperatures fluctuate too often for the use of Rose Cones in my opinion. I have no experience however using them. Burlap is the only thing other than products such as shade cloth that I would use. One guys opinion...

Your questions:
Abies nordmanniana Golden Spreador is probably zone 6. I've only seen it listed as 5 maybe once... all other times it was listed as 6.
The rest of your conifers that got a little zapped. This happens to everyone that doesn't live in zone 7 and above. They'll re-cooperate. Picea orientalis cultivars and seedlings you may want to burlap thru a few winters, probably three. Silver Seedling is a plant that will burn for a while until it is established. Golden conifers, the Picea's... they too often need protection for three years.

Dax

    Bookmark   August 4, 2010 at 8:03AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

i use them ... in my z5 ....

for wind and sun.. and rabbit protection ...

no difference whether you use it with the top.. or topless ... as long as there are enough hole on the top to allow heat reduction ...

i have grown many exotic baby oaks in topless ones ... for up to 3 years .... ALL YEAR LONG

topless ... you just insert 2 stakes thru the chimney to hold it in place ....

we arent really worried about temps on zone appropriate stock ... we are trying to avoid warm winter sun during the day with blistering cold winds at night.. the same theory as dax's use of burlap ...

by the time they outgrow the cone size.. they should be so well established that they can cope ... its the fact that they are not established that requires the protection ...

as to golden spreader.. i have had no luck with 3 or 4 .... and question its reliability in z5 .. ALL DEPENDING on yoru micro climate ...

you said:lastly, last year some things that were supposed to be hardy for my area had some significant winter die-back. These include Abies concolor "Candicans", Picea abies "Vermont Gold" and Pinus leucodermis "Irish Bell". These were all bought from garden centers that get their stock from the Pacific Northwest. Do you think they died back so severely because they weren't used to Upper Midwest winters? Do you think that this winter they will come through better?

===>>> again ... its all about becoming established ... and you should make sure that they are PROPERLY watered late into fall ....

too often.. we put away the hose come oct 1st .... and then ignore our plants to ground freeze around 1/1 .... though they PROBABLY wont need much water with cooler temps.. and cold nights.. it sure does NOT hurt.. around 11/1 to INSURE that they have one last good drink ... and full drainage.. before the real cold hits ... INSURE that the roots do not freeze into an ice cube .... and do NOT confuse a frost with ground freeze ...

sooooo .... i would cut off the tops of the cones if i were you ....

if they have their tops on.. cones should be removed appropriately in spring .... i am guessing around 3/15 in my zone .... we are only protecting from those zero type winter temps.. not by the time you are staying above 30 at night .... and frankly.. they need not be put on until near december ... it cracks me up.. when i start seeing peeps put the cones on in mid sept... perhaps a bit ahead of the curve ....

ken

ps: i have the Styrofoam cones ... from my rose growing days ...

    Bookmark   August 4, 2010 at 8:53AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
willio11

Thanks for the help guys.
Just to clarify- after the plants get a bit more established (1-3 years), they will stop burning during the winter? What is the science behind this? (Just curious)

Also, I doubt that the Golden Spreader will make it through the winter if it is indeed zone 6. Can I try putting it in the unfinished portion of my basement for the winter? It stays about 60 degrees down there. Any special care for it then? I assume to keep the soil moist? I could put it in my insulated garage but I worry about temperature fluctuations when the doors are open.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2010 at 1:13PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

IMHO.. conifers are not house plants ...

leave it outside.... go for it ...

winter burn.. on zone proper plants.. recent transplants.. IMHO .. is an issue of whether the root system is capable of moving enough water to the needles.. in late fall or winter.. to offset the drying effects of winter wind...

once it is able to go into winter. fully turgid.. full of water .... on its own.. it should be able to cope ...

i like to generalize this way .... if a tree needs to be as big.. if not twice as big below ground.. as above.. to thrive... until your recent transplant get to such.. it will show stress.. and winter winds and sun.. stress them ...

think about that piece of meat in your freezer for a year.. or ask wifey/mom/guardian of the frozen foods .... to show you.. freeze dried dedicated freezer burned stuff .. and think about a fresh piece taken out of the freezer thaw for a day .. and then refroze .... that is what winter sun can do ....

any better???

ken

    Bookmark   August 4, 2010 at 2:50PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
tsugajunkie z5 SE WI

I have a small 'Golden Spreader' going into it's third winter. Killed one- too much winter sun. Current one has been covered with snow the past two winters and it's somewhat shaded by a Russian Sage (among other things) when there is no snow cover. We'll see what happens after it outgrows that protection. It has seen -17F (-27C) although I think it was under a foot of snow then.

tj

    Bookmark   August 4, 2010 at 5:09PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
wassercom(5a)

I've used rose cones, with their tops on, in my zone 5a garden and have had considerable success. Punching a few air holes in the top has been entirely sufficient to ensure proper air exchange. After 2-3 years, when the conifers have put some roots down, I retire the cones. It's worked nicely, and I think it's more cost-effective than Wilt-pruf (and possibly safer, as Wilt-pruf can damage junipers and thujas when used prior to winter dormancy).

    Bookmark   August 4, 2010 at 7:52PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

if you leave the tops on.. INSURE THAT THE CONES COME OFF EARLY ....

too lazy to look it up ... but if low min temp for z5 is -25 ....

a cone might take you way up to -15 ... up to z6 ....

but all you need to protect from.. is those errant days in jan/feb ... when the max min is possible ...

once the potential extreme winter low is past ... say by 3/1 ... the cones can come off ....

i suspect.. that i lost more roses.. from leaving the cones on too long.. than otherwise ...

by early march.. you can have 60 degrees days ... infrequently .. but under the cone.. you might be getting to 80 ... i would rather the plant suffer 30 at night.. than 80 during the day ...

i have not specifically studied the temp fluctuations under cones.. and all numbers are used as example ... to further the discussion ...

the beauty of removing the top ... is that you wont spike high heat ... which is as dangerous in late winter.. as low temps are in mid winter ... the whole point is to moderate the fluctuations .... protects from the extremes ... not mess up the norm ...

ken

    Bookmark   August 5, 2010 at 8:46AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

BTW

my ENTIRE experience is in z5 ... i see no difference with colder zones .... except for adjusting the time frames ....

but i have no clue how it would work in 6 ... or any higher zone ....

ken

    Bookmark   August 5, 2010 at 4:01PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Pine grafting question
Hi,last year I noticed a particularly lovely dwarf...
gary77788
What are these trees?
What are these two conifers? One is blue/gray with...
edlincoln
Germinating Juniper (occidentalis and communis)
simple in terms of just planting them and waiting or...
sequoia_stiffy
Found a giant!
Found this guy while driving through town! Looks pretty...
treeguy_ny USDA z6a WNY
Pseudotsuga macrocarpa photo
A photo of my pseudotsuga macrocarpa
bluethuja
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™