Is it possible to propagate fig cuttings in a 64-65 degree room?
i have heard folks getting roots that started in a refrigerator, i would think you could it would just take longer for them to root.
My basement is usually in the mid to upper 60's and I have rooted figs without trouble.
I have 4 Sals and a BT in perlite/vermiculite now. They have roots and small leaves.
I will send you information on the propagation methods that I use.....the Improved Baggie Method. No problem in rooting at your 65 degrees F room temperature. FYI....my room temperature usually lies between 70 to 75 degrees. It takes me about 4 to 5 months to take my cuttings from twigs to completely harden-off trees that are acclimated to sunlight. I consistently attain a very high success rate in producing new fig trees. You do not need a heating pad nor a seed propagation mat. Those devices can be problematic and can do more damage to your cuttings than they are helpful.
Thanks everyone for the replies.
I thought it would be possible to root them in that temp. but, I wasn't sure if they all root. I have cuttings for LSU purple, Blue Celeste and Black Madeira.
which one of these root easiest?
I actually purchased a heating mat with thermostat. I haven't used it yet. Do you think I should use it? or just do it in 64-65 degree temps. They are already in Baggies now. I'm going to scrub them with Anti-bacterial dishwashing liquid first, then I will put them in Clorox and Water mixture(1:10 ratio), air-dry them and just put couple of them in a 24 ounce clear Starbucks cups containing 50% Perlite and 50% Potting soil and others in Promix.
Dan, I'm still waiting for your email.
Thank you all.
Cuttings of some woody plants are very particular about rooting temperatures and root best with a 10-15* differential between air and root temperatures with root temperatures being the warmer. While figs are so genetically vigorous that they will root in practically any medium, there are some things you can do to help insure success and to speed things along.
Since you already have the propagation mat, and we know that figs root best with roots in the 70-75* range, using it would be beneficial as it would provide close to ideal root temps while the cooler air helps to slow down bud movement. You may wish to consider eliminating the unsterile potting soils in favor of a sterile and more highly aerated medium like 100% screened perlite.
I personally had bad experiences with directly applied bottom heat. Dried out the bottom inch or so of soil in my cups. If you can give about an inch of buffer from the heat source, it helps.
I've rooted almost all of my figs in the upper 60's, around 66-68. I think you'll be fine with 64-65.
This will be my first fig propagation. I wanted to try different mediums for rooting and see which works the best.
Below are my mediums for my rooting;
2 cuttings: 50% perlite, 50% Promix
2 cuttings 6:1 Turface (NAPA dry floor) and peat moss
2 cuttings Only Pormix
I have not made the rooting mediums yet. Will try to do it tomorrow.
I really don't want to use the heating mat because, I have heard some bad results for some people who used them. If I use it, I will definitely place something above the mat to act as buffer. But, I may just try it without it, if the process was slow then I can place the heat mat under the 48q clear container.
If anyone else has more idea please, say so. I would definately appriiate it.
P.S. cutting are from Jon at Encantofarms. They are nice cuttings.
You have to consider two things:
- Higher temperatures (relatively speaking > 68F) help expedite rooting but also expedites roting and mold.
- Lower temperatures (room ambient say The choice is yours. I used to use a heat mate and get some early rooting and some early roting. Now I use patience with low temperatures.
The choice is certainly yours. However, I will EMPHASIZE again that a heating pad is NOT needed when rooting FIG cuttings indoors at normal room temperatures. You risk more damage to your cuttings from the heating source than the benefits that it produces. My research is quite clear on this matter. A STABILIZED even rooting temperature is more important than the actual rooting temperature. Anytime you put fig cuttings into any CLOSED container, often fluctuating temperatures due to some uneven heating source (heating pad, propagation mats, radiators, sunlight, etc.) will cause bad condensation to form in places that causes mold and rot to occur.
However, heating propagation mats DO provide some benefit when rooting "outdoors" in a green house type environment where the top portion of the cutting is OPEN to the environment.
I am 100% certain of the information that I have given you above. The method that I will send to you takes this into account and following that simple rooting method helps insure your success.
Does the cutting that one tries to sprout have to be 100% dormant? Can it just be starting to leaf out or is that too late to sprout it?
I decided to propagate my cuttings w/o heating mat. Originally, I was going to propagate them in my basement but, I decided to bring them up-stair. the temp. is around 70 degree. I have already made the rooting mediums and they are in their little green house (clear container).
just have to wait and see what happens.
I never received any e-mails, messages or..... from you containing your "Improved Baggie Method". But, thanks anyway.
Thank you for the help.
no. a lot of people just wait until end of the year for dormancy, makes it easier to cut and there is nothing else garden-related to work on. lets you get a headstart on spring.
i've heard people speculate that cutting dormancy is required, but several fig experts root all year long and are very successful.
I only tried once. I took a broken fig branch and planted it last summer. The leaves just wilted up and it died. So hope to do better this year.
I am still in the process of re-writing the Improved Baggie Method....which will include detailed information on how to properly store cuttings.
Here is a link to a thread where I've given most of the important details. This method is especially designed to increase one's success rate in rooting fig cuttings. My rooting success by this method is consistently near 100%. Some claim to have better rooting methods for the hobby rooter; but, I have not seen those methods put in writing where those claims can be verified. It is hard to improve upon a method that consistently attains a near 100% success. However, I will keep an open mind and would definitely try other written methods for a direct comparison.
You do not have to use baggies during the rooting process and can go directly from the cleaning of your cuttings to putting them directly into rooting cups with your preferred rooting mix. Do not skip the steps that outline the proper cleaning of your cuttings.......cuttings from MANY sources (not all sources) will mold and rot quite easy if you do not clean them. Also, you do not need to use the 3 inch peat pots that are suggested in my method. However, using those 3 inch pots helps insure that you WILL NOT have plant shock when you move your rooted cutting into its final potting mix/container. Avoid the temptation to apply any outside heating source to your baggies and/or rooting cups or container bins. Remember, that maintaining a STABILIZED rooting temperature is a key control variable to your achieving a high rooting success. Very simple techniques are given in helping you achieve a stabilized rooting temperature. Avoid using a heating mat is one of them.
I have used quite a few fig propagation methods and am currently developing newer techniques. However, none to date achieve the success rate of the Improved Baggie Method. This method can be used at anytime during the year. For summer rooting...........obtain 8 inch cuttings from the fig tree that you want to propagate. Cut each leaf off at the point where the leaf attaches to STEM. Do not remove the stems from the fig cutting......you only want to remove the broad leaf portion. Put these cuttings in a baggie and place them in the refrigerator. When the stems fall off of the twigs....they are ready to root.
Here is a link that might be useful: Improved Baggie Method
Clarification.........use 8 inch CUTTING "TIPS" (important) when fig rooting in the summer.
a picture is worth a thousand words. does that mean a video is worth a hundred thousand?
either way, check out the first video posted in this thread, it is fig fanatic Ray Givan's method for rooting while plants are leafed out
Here is a link that might be useful: Ray Givan fig video