Thickening the lawn to choke out weeds??

AggranduserAugust 14, 2014

Has anyone ever had success doing this? Or is it just a myth? My lawn is loaded with Dutch clover and dandilions. I neglected my lawn for about 5 years when my son got sick (I believe it was from the broad leaf herbicide I used) but that's another story.
For the last season and half I have been fertilizing monthly with Aggrand fish emulsion, and my lawn is amazingly thick but the weeds are still there.
Do I need to give it more time?

Thanks in advance.

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Kimmsr(4a/5b-MI)

Growing a thick turf can help reduce the amount of "weeds" that grow in that turf, provided the height of that turf grass is also high enough. However, that requires a good healthy soil for those turf grasses to grow in and adequate soil moisture.

This post was edited by kimmsr on Sat, Aug 16, 14 at 7:13

    Bookmark   August 15, 2014 at 7:52AM
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Aggranduser

Thanks Kimmsr, I have been following all the basics here on this site. Keeping height at 3.5" watering 1" a week in the hottest months, organic fertilizer once a month. The lawn looks incredible while everyone else's around me have gone dormant.
I think my biggest problem is that my PH is 7.8 and It doesn't seem to come down no matter how much sulphur I put down.
I get that keeping the lawn thick and healthy and tall prevents weed germination but will it also choke out existing weeds?

Thanks again.

    Bookmark   August 15, 2014 at 8:53AM
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Kimmsr(4a/5b-MI)

Some "weeds" might be pushed out by a good thick lawn but others that are already growing will not easily give up and will need to be removed or ignored. Keep in mind too that what we call "weeds" are wild flowers that may be of great benefit for the pollinators we have. There is some discussion that these wild flowers have stuff in the pollen that helps protect the bees from various pests and diseases as observed where they have unlimited access to these "weeds".
A soil pH of 7.8 is getting fairly high (I'd not be too concerned about 7.2) and is usually only achieved with applications of too much lime, although Saskatchewan and B.C. may have soils with pH's that high. How did you arrive at that soil pH?

    Bookmark   August 16, 2014 at 7:42AM
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Aggranduser

I had a soil test from Midwest Labs.

    Bookmark   September 7, 2014 at 10:47AM
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Aggranduser

I tried to upload a screen shot of my soil test but I see it did not attach for some reason. Can anyone help?

    Bookmark   September 7, 2014 at 10:52AM
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Kimmsr(4a/5b-MI)

I have been successful in posting material I have in my computer to this forum simply by copying and pasting.

    Bookmark   September 8, 2014 at 6:42AM
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Aggranduser

Ok, I hope this worksâ¦
/Users/tombennett/Pictures/Tom's IPhone/Camera Roll/IMG_1138.PNG

    Bookmark   September 8, 2014 at 10:06AM
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Kimmsr(4a/5b-MI)

The level of organic matter (14 percent) is good although a bit high (optimal is 6 to 8 percent) and Nitrogen is quite good. Every soil test lab, even those that do not test for N, suggest putting down about 2 pounds of Nitrogen per 1,000 square feet which is about what is in a 50 pound bag of a 36 percent N fertilizer. I'd not be too concerned about doing that. The P and K are in the optimal range and need nothing more, at this time, but the Calcium and Magnesium are out of balance and that is why the suggestion to put down Gypsum.
Mulch mow the grass, about 3 to 3-1/2 inches is a good height for cool weather grasses, so the clippings which can supply about 2 pounds of N per 1,00 square feet, will feed the Soil Food Web that will feed your turf grass.
When I was growing up having White Dutch Clover in the lawn meant a healthy lawn and that was not considered a "weed" until the "weed" killers came out and the manufacturers found those products also killed the clover, so clover became a "weed". You are heading ion the right direction.

    Bookmark   September 9, 2014 at 7:14AM
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