Why are my large tomato plants not blooming?

markydJune 4, 2011

I am growing a couple dozen tomato plants and several varieties of peppers. I'm growing in nothing smaller than 5 gallon buckets, using a variety of soil and soil-less mediums. Pro-mix, gritty mix, etc. I also have four 4x4 beds that I'm growing in.

All my peppers (except some of the really late varieties) are blooming and setting fruit like crazy. The only tomato plants that are flowering and setting fruit are cherry and grape varieties, and a lot of those aren't even going.

I had been feeding with a nitrogen-heavy fish emulsion weekly. I only water when it feels dry. I've switched to ferts to boost my phosphate levels about a week ago. My peppers and some tomatoes just went crazy! Others are just sitting there. They look perfectly healthy.

Varieties that have shown no signs of production:

-Black Cherry

-Black Krim

-Cherokee Purple



All of these were transplanted as seedlings around the same time, in early April. Do these varieties just take a lot longer to flower and fruit?

Am I better off putting them in a spot that is full sun, or more shady? I don't really have a spot that is shady in the evening that I can put them, but I have spots that are shady about 50% of the day (morning). I'd love some input.



Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Your tomato choices look good except maybe for Brandywine. Although the fruit has a great taste, it is well known for producting VERY little fruit in our climate. Roma is an OK tomato but tends to get BER very easily on the first tomatoes of the season. The others are very good choices in my opinion and are some of my favorites.

You problem sounds like too much nitrogen, but if fish emulsion was your only fertilizer I would be surprised if that caused a problem.

I have the opposite problem, my tomato plants are wimpy but have lots of blooms. Of course, we are just now beginning to get the heat of summer in northern Oklahoma, and a lot of our gardens had a huge set-back with the heavy rainfall we had.

Dawn will probably be along in a minute and tell you what to do to fix the problem.

    Bookmark   June 4, 2011 at 6:43PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

thanks for the response! I forgot to include the varieties that ARE producing:

-Roma Grape

I also left out my Arkansas Travelers from the list of "no flowers yet."

What I find odd is that all these plants got the same treatment.

    Bookmark   June 4, 2011 at 7:54PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Did they all get the same potting soil? Some soils have 3 or 4 months worth of fertilizer in them. Could you have used one of those and then added more?

    Bookmark   June 4, 2011 at 8:46PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo

Oops, I forgot. Arkansas Traveler is a late season tomato.

    Bookmark   June 4, 2011 at 8:49PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Okiedawn OK Zone 7


There are several possible reasons.

Tomato plants are individuals and not clones, so they all will not act the same as one another. They'll have their own individual responses to the conditions in which they're living. Once you've grown tomatoes for a while, you'll even notice that a specific variety performs differently (and even tastes differently) in different years.

You cannot compare peppers to tomatoes because they are not exactly the same. Hot peppers, in particular, are not as affected by the heat/humidity as tomatoes are, for example, so they tend to set fruit all summer long. Some sweet peppers do so as well, although some of them slow down in the worst of the summer heat.

Fish Emulsion isn't really high nitrogen, or at least not high enough to impede flowering in and of itself. Most fish emulsions have an NPK ratio of either 5-1-1 or 5-2-2, which hardly is an exceptionally high amount of nitrogen.

Is the issue you're seeing that no flowers are forming at all or is it that flowers are forming and dropping off because fertilization is not occurring? That's a key issue because they are separate problems.

If no flowers are forming, then the plants are not mature enough to set fruit and carry a load or there is too much nitrogen (which means your mix has too much nitro because fish emulsion alone wouldn't do it) or some other sort of nutritional imbalance. Or, it could mean they are not receiving enough hours per day of sunlight.

If flowers are forming and falling off unpollinated, that's blossom drop and it generally is related to high heat/high humidity. The larger the fruit a plant produces, the more that flowering/fruitset seems to be impacted negatively by heat heat/high humidity. So, even when the heat and humidity are high, many of the bite-size tomatoes (whether they're classified as cherry, grape, currant, plum or pear-shaped) flower and set fruit just fine, but a few of them do not. Varieties that produce really large fruit often do not flower or set fruit well in high heat and high humidity. Some varieties that produce smaller slicer or saladette types will set fruit at high temps almost as well as the bite-sized ones do.

Every tomato variety reacts differently, so some may have blossom drop when nighttime lows are exceeding 72 degrees, but others might not see blossom drop until nighttime lows are exceeding 75. The same is true with high temps. For some varieties, 92 degrees appears to be the point at which fertilization ceases but for others it might be 95 degrees. Then, if you have high humidity, that can make pollen sticky so that it clumps together and does not shed from the anthers like it should. Conversely, in very low relative humidity you may see fruit set even at high temperatures.

My best guess is that part of the problem is the varieties you chose...most are mid-season or late-season and not early season. So, they flower and fruit a bit later than tomatoes with a shorter DTM. Keep in mind that DTMs are estimates only and your actual results may vary quite a bit from the DTMs. Part of the problem is undoubtedly the high humidity and/or high heat or some combination thereof.

If you are getting blossoms and they then abort without setting fruit, it could be the heat or the humidity, but it also could be poor air flow. If the pollen is a little sticky and isn't shedding from the anthers, you can help it along with thumping each individual blossom or by gently shaking the tomato cage.

Also, while you don't want to keep the soil heavily saturated, you want to keep it evenly moist and not let it dry out too much in between waterings. This is especially true of tomatoes in containers as uneven watering can contribute to blossom end rot. If your plants are cycling from dry to moist and back to dry again, the plants may not feel like they're receiving consistent enough moisture to carry fruit.

With regards to the varieties you listed, Brandywine is late, late, late and produces poorly in our heat. Arkansas Traveler is a late one and usually doesn't bloom for me until sometimes in June, and then those fruit are ready to pick by August. Black Krim and Cherokee Purple usually flower for me in late May, but this year they aren't, so I think it is the weather because they're certainly large enough, have consistent moisture and are in well-amended soil with good fertility. Some years Roma can sit and wait forever before it blooms, but once it does, it sets a lot of fruit and they are ready fairly quickly.

Black Cherry sometimes is slow to start flowerings and setting fruit, and sometimes not. Sometimes it slows down more in the heat of the summer than other cherries do and sometimes it doesn't. It is kind of a garden diva at times, but it gets away with it simply because the flavor of the fruit is so good.

I don't know what your temperature and humidity have been like for the last two or three weeks, but mine have been too hot on some days for fertilization to occur but not on others. Remember that I said that plants are individuals? I have right around 100 tomato plants and some have already produced several ripe tomatoes, some of which have been quite large, and others haven't even bloomed yet while a few have set and ripened a lot of smallish tomatoes. That is pretty typical behavior.

Also, tomatoes in containers do not peform exactly like those in the ground. Remember that tomato plants in the ground can send their roots out searching for more water or more nutrition if they need it, but plants in containers are trapped in the containers so cannot help themselves in that same manner. So, tomato plants in containers have a smaller margin of error than those in the ground and they may stunt or stall if they are not happy.

Some years I have as many as 40 tomato plants in containers. This year I have 9. Why? Because I was expecting a hotter-than-average and drier-than-average growing season and I knew that tomatoes in containers would struggle more in those conditions. Thus I put fewer of them in containers, and my smallest containers this year are 20-gallon containers. I have grown tomatoes in containers as small as 5 gallons, but tomato plants in containers that small are hard to keep happy and often do not produce well in our climate. For maximum production, they need larger containers that hold more moisture, that allow their roots to spread out and that keep their roots cool. Don't overlook the possiblity that the heat is just baking the roots of the plants in containers.


    Bookmark   June 4, 2011 at 11:33PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo


Thanks, as always, for the well thought out response. The fish emulsion I've been using is indeed 5-1-1. I just assumed that it could be lack of P-K that is keeping them from flowering.

The issue I'm seeing is mostly no flowers at all. I am seeing SOME blossom drop, but that's only on a few plants, and those plants are also setting fruit.

Your explanation regarding the varieties I planted is probably a sound one. I went searching after I read your post, and it seems that most of the varieties that aren't blooming are, indeed, "late" varieties. This is only my second year growing anything, so I've got a lot to learn.

I'm most disappointed that I'm not seeing anything from my 4 black cherry plants. I understand why now, however. I am DYING to try them; I've never had one. From what I've read, it's the "non-tomato person" tomato.

I'm growing almost everything in containers due to lack of space, so I'm going to have to keep a close eye on them to make sure they're not just cooking. It's been so bloody hot.

Thanks again, Dawn. I'll snap some pics, too, to post back.

    Bookmark   June 5, 2011 at 11:40AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Okiedawn OK Zone 7

Mark, You're welcome.

I understand about the need to grow in containers. There are ways to help keep them cool. Some gardeners buy that foam insulation board that is either white or shiny silver and put 'boxes' (I assume just insulation tacked together with nails or something) around a row of containers to deflect the sunlight away from the pots. Others line up hay bales alongside the pots so the hay bales block the sun. Also, if you have dark color pots, they'll absorb heat, so I am slowly changing to light-colored pots, or painting my dark pots a lighter color with Fusion spray paint for plastics.

I've also moved my containers off the concrete and onto grass. I like having them on the concrete early in the season when the heat is beneficial, but have to move them in May or they start roasting in the sun.

Hang in there. I am betting they'll start flowering soon. I have seven Black Cherry tomato plants, and two are flowering and setting fruit just fine. Of those two, one has ripened fruit already. The other five Black Cherry plants are just sitting there like bumps on a log! I guess they'll flower and fruit when they are ready, and not before. All seven are planted in the same row, side by side, so they are a great example of how different plants of the same variety can behave differently even when they all sit there side by side in the same soil, same light, same moisture, etc.

When I want to manipulate my tomatoes into blooming during a cool spell in the summer so that, hopefully, I'll get fruit set specifically during that cool day or two, I feed them Super Bloom or the Miracle Grow Bloom Booster formula. You might try that on your Black Cherries. If it doesn't make them bloom, then we have to accept that they are at that difficult "stubborn teenager" stage and aren't going to bloom until they make up their mind to do so.


    Bookmark   June 5, 2011 at 2:32PM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Predicted low Saturday is 35 to 38
depending on which meteorologist you look at here in...
ID help
I love spring time. I get to start cleaning out the...
pepper plants tulsa area
does anyone know where to get mucho nacho jalapeno...
Greenhouse cover
Hello all. We are considering building a greenhouse...
Easter freeze....
Anyone else worried about a potential Easter freeze?...
Sponsored Products
Devynn Chair - BROWN
$2,329.00 | Horchow
Safavieh Organica ORG114A 2'6" x 10' Gold Rug
$225.00 | PlushRugs
Agraria Lavender & Rosemary Air Essence Diffuser
$119.00 | FRONTGATE
Cedar Spiral/ Urn
Forever Green Art Triple Moss Ball Bonsai
Beyond Stores
Home Decorators Indoor/Outdoor Home Decorators Collection Rugs MandarIn
Home Depot
Safavieh Indoor/Outdoor Safavieh Rugs Organica Natural 2 ft. 6 in. x 12 ft.
Home Depot
Canterbury Arbor - 48" Opening
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™