New to Plumeria

plant54January 30, 2010

I'm new to Plumeria growing and live in Zone 4. I can't believe the knowledge that's shared here between members, it's so overwhelming. I'm know I can't grow Plumeria's in the ground and more than likely not to in containers. I just want to let you all know, how lucky you are to enjoy those beautiful plants and flowers.

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mikeod(Z9 FL)

I know of people growing plumeria in containers in Canada. A lot depends on what you can do in early spring/late fall to keep them going a bit longer before they go dormant. Normal summer temps should allow them to spend time outdoors on a patio or in the garden. What you need to do is provide sufficient light and heat at other times to extend their growing season enough to get blooms. In the winter, you can put them away, pot and all, in the dark, giving them only enough water to keep the roots from drying out. They will leaf out again in the spring when you put them in light and warmth.
Mike

    Bookmark   January 30, 2010 at 9:08PM
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greekman

I agree with Mike,
there are many people in North Europe (Sweden etc) growing plumerias in pots and they enjoy their flowers.

The question is "are you really interesting to grow plumerias and enjoy their flowers ?" the answer is 'YES YOU CAN ".

John

    Bookmark   January 31, 2010 at 2:17AM
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tdogdad(Zone 9)

You can even grow them in the ground. You plant them in spring when the danger of frost is gone and dig them up and store bare root in the fall.

    Bookmark   January 31, 2010 at 7:19PM
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plant54

I decided to order some seeds from mauiplumeriagardens.com.
Been reading up on seed starting, soil mixes, bottom heat, lighting, misting and watering.
Can't wait to get started.

    Bookmark   February 3, 2010 at 10:43AM
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tdogdad(Zone 9)

Seeds may take years to flower and may not be like the parent plant at all. I think the best to to buy a rooted plant from like Maui Plumeria Gardens or another seller of rooted plants because you are a year ahead when you plant and closer to the flowering age and less likely to suffer the rot associated with starting cuttings. I have seedlings that are eight years old and have not flowered yet and those that have are a few better than the parent, a few like the parent and many that are not as nice as the parent. Out of 50, I probably will keep only 2. Just a note. Bill

    Bookmark   February 3, 2010 at 12:38PM
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plant54

Bill Thanks for the advice. I also plan to test a rooted one when the weather warms, to cold to ship at this time.
Any suggestions for a container type of rooted Plumerias?
I feel seed growing to be a low cost way of testing, hopefully I have a few to work with. I also have a heated greenhouse to work with.

    Bookmark   February 3, 2010 at 1:05PM
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tdogdad(Zone 9)

I would suggest going to www.mauiplumeriagardens.com and click on rooted plumerias then click on cuttings and go through all pages. See what you like. I think any Moragne (Jeannie, Katie, grainy), puu kahea and the lei varieties of Celadine and Lei Rainbow are good choices. Heavy reds are more risky because they are cold sensitive and a bit difficut for first plants. When you see what you like e-mail jennifer@mauiplumeriagardens.com and ask when they might have any of those in rooted plants in stock. At this time of the year the rooted stock will be low but usually will increase in spring. Jennifer is very nice and helpful and I have done much business with her over the years. Her rooted stock is very good and I think paying double the cost of a cutting to get a years growth and successful roots is a bargain. All plants are container types but they are eventually trees and must be trimmed and root pruned in about 5-7 years. There are a few dwarfs but none of them knock my socks off. I like the 4-6" big flowers best. Just my opinion. Bill

    Bookmark   February 3, 2010 at 7:46PM
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jugler68

I 've had a potted plumeria for appx 12 years. It has always been an inside plant; it is appx 4 ft tall, with two stems and generally the leaves are healthy and plentiful. It has never bloomed, but I have never fertilized it either. This is the first year it looks as if it will lose all of its leaves. I am concerned because I repotted it about 5 weeks ago and that is when the leaf loss really excelerated. How do I know if the leaf loss is from winter season or repotting damage? Should I just leave it alone and water it until spring then start fertilizing? Elaine

    Bookmark   February 7, 2010 at 2:29PM
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tdogdad(Zone 9)

What did the root ball look like. Did you trim the roots or score any wrapped ones with a razor or did you just plop the whole thing in a bigger pot? Did you use B-1 or superthrive and water after the transplant? Fortunately, Elaine, plumies are quite hardy in winter transplants so you should be ok. If all the leaves are drooping at once, it is a sign of stress. If the bottom leaves are yellowing and dropping and the top are normal, it is going dormant. If the former, some b-1 will help. But don't water too much and very little if any when all the leaves are gone. Lots of leaves need lots of water; fewer leaves need less water. No leaves need just a little dampness in the soil - I run a finger around the inside of a pot and make a small moat. I water here only and leave the center dry. When the tips begin to show life and "claw" growth, water the whole pot once every few weeks until leave pop out. Then-- more leaves=more water. Bill

    Bookmark   February 7, 2010 at 4:00PM
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