time to transplant?

qatpawFebruary 21, 2007

This my second year with about 7 plants that did pretty good their first year. They are still in the original 7" diameter pots. Should I give them a permanent space in the ground this year? If so, what is the best time to do that & any other tips would be appreciated. Also not sure when to start fertilizing again. They definately did not like that unusual cold snap we had, but it didn't last long and I think they're ok.

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mikeod(Z9 FL)

I would wait until you are sure the temps will stay above 50 at night consistently. Remember these are trees and will need space as they grow. You can prune them to keep them lower. TDOGDAD has trained some into a hedge configuration by judicious pruning. (Also gives you some cuttings to root!)

    Bookmark   February 21, 2007 at 10:04AM
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How far apart should I plant them? I'm mostly concerned that the roots have enough room. I'd like to plant 5 of them and I have an area about 4.5' by 4.5' to work with. Think they'd be happy in that amount of space?

    Bookmark   February 26, 2007 at 10:57PM
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tdogdad(Zone 9)

I think five is too many. A ten year old plumie in the ground will easily occupy that amount of space. Using tall, sturdy poles and plastic ties plus pruning, you might fit in three in a triangle shape of about 3 feet equilateral (two in the back and one in the front), however these plants would be very cramped. Two would be much better. I have plants in pots that have a five foot diameter when leafed out. Like Mike said, these are trees. They tend to spread outward as well as upward so outward bound branches need to be pulled upward or pruned. Bill
A ten year old with a diameter of ten feet dispite constant pruning:

A five year old potted Samoan Fluff with a 5 foot diameter at the top. On the right a 6 year old Lavender in a 5 X 4 planter space:

Using plastic tie and tall poles to shape outward growing limbs:

Hedge trained in area of 5 x 4 per plant:

    Bookmark   February 27, 2007 at 11:42AM
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Thank you Bill,
That was very useful info & the pictures really help to visualize what mine could do a few years down the road. I see that one of yours looks quite happy in the large pot. I'll plant two or three in the space I have ready & get nice big pots for the rest until I can find more yard space. I'm in a condo & very lucky to have a small yard to work with. Maybe I'll dig up the potato bush tree & give that space to a plumie.

    Bookmark   March 3, 2007 at 12:33PM
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tdogdad(Zone 9)

Vivian- Now it begins. First the potato bush, next whatever- plumies rule!!! First I tore out a wildflower garden, then a tree and some bushes, next the two rose gardens got moved to local schools, and finally I started tearing into the lawn. Plumie fever has a manifest destiny attitude toward land. It only gets worse. Enjoy. (it comes down to I need this Jeannie Moragne so what plant has to go next, next I need this xyz plumie so......etc) bill

    Bookmark   March 3, 2007 at 6:08PM
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LOL...I feel like I'm in great company! Maybe I'd better get a couple pictures of my yard before the plumie take-over. Everything is expendable except the gardinia.

    Bookmark   March 4, 2007 at 1:11AM
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ok, now for the ground prep. How deep should I go? The ground in my yard is pretty bad & I'll need to dig it up good and add to it before planting. Do the plumie roots like to go down deep or more spread out?

    Bookmark   March 4, 2007 at 12:41PM
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tdogdad(Zone 9)

It is best to go up. Any raising of the bed will allow the top roots to stay dry and this is great for plumies. The roots are in a ball but are not really big for the plant. If you have clay, raising the bed is much safer. Sandy soil you can just plant in the ground. Drainage of water is the key. Bill

Brick planter-plumies raised into a volcano shape with black rock on top to prevent erosion. This works very well.

A raised rock planter-looks great, works great, pain in the a## to make (my back goes out just looking at it)

    Bookmark   March 6, 2007 at 12:04PM
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