How old should the tree be before trying to propogate cuttings from it? I have a young tree only a few feet tall, but since it takes so long for them to grow, I considered trying to grow others from it NOW.
Could someone offer assistance here? I'd like to know also....
take 2-4 inch cuttings of firm new growth during june through august. apply 0.1% IBA (rooting hormone) stick in well drained soil & misttakes 30-80 days to root
If I could butt in here one more time......how old does the donor tree have to be, before you can take a cutting?
it doesn't matter how long/old the tree is, as long as the wood is mature enough to cut from for the type of cutting you want: the cuttings should be the right firmness, and you have to be willing to take the cuting from your parent plant
Hi again, I never got the cuttings last year that I wanted, but my mother in laws neighbor has offered them and I'd really like to get some.
This tree is 40 plus years old and flowers and produces fruit every year, so I know it will be a good one to use.
So my next question...yiorges-z5il says 2-4 inches, can it be longer? and if longer will there be any advantage in it?
origami_master refers to "mature" wood, is there a diameter equivalent that would assure it's "mature" maybe like a pencil?
Finally, is there any area of the tree that would give better cuttings? or does that matter at all?
You can always try longer cuttings however plants tend to have a specific area that roots well, too high and no roots, too low and no roots, Pomegranate needs semi-hardwood to greenwood to root, there is always exceptions so best to just try it, do some of each and then you have nothing to lose by trying something different.
It does not hurt the parent tree since its trimming the tree causes new growth.
Here is a link that might be useful: Nipa Hut Gardens and Gifts
I got my cuttings and then I read more and found some conflicting info, maybe someone who has done this can help me out.
I read somewhere to take 12 to 20 inch cuttings, to remove all the leaves and use root hormone and bury 2/3 of the plant?
Is that necessary? the depth thing? I did have much bigger cuttings than the 3 or 4 inches recommended here earlier.
My growing mix is 1/2 peat, 1/2 potting mix and sand. Will that work ok? Also the cuttings I have are multi branched not just a single branch. I'll take pics tomorrow and post.
There will always be conflicting info. Everybody does their cuttings differently. Since your cuttings are free, why not divide them in half, and try the different kinds of advice you are getting. If you get 20% success, will you be happy?
I really wanted some olive trees after I killed one in a container, so I took some suckers, stripped most of the leaves off, rolled those stems in rooting hormone, and stuck them in the ground. 3 out of 9 or 10 lived, and are growing many new leaves. Same thing with green softwood grape cuttings. 4 out of 15 lived and are happily growing. I seem to have better success just sticking cuttings in the damp ground in mostly shade. But that's just me. The sprinkler keeps them damp and no worries. If they live, they live. If not, there are always more cuttings to be had.
The plan is to dig the olives up and pot them this winter. But the grapevines will grow where they are.
Roses will be my next cutting venture, and I'll do them the same way. I just inspected my pomegranate, and since it's only 6 months old with it's first flowers budding, I'll wait on that till next year. I also ordered some grape, fig, and pomegranate cuttings from UC Davis, so if they come this winter, I'll be rooting those for sure!
Good luck with those cuttings!
I realize this will be trial and error for me, but I am wondering about something that is happening to the cuttings and if it will have any consequence.
I have them in a medium that is being kept moist, I dipped in rooting hormone powder.
I left the leaves on, (except the lower section) and now the leaves are all crunchy. It is not feasible for me to mist these regularly.
Will the leaves do anything to assist the cutting? or will it still be ok?
Most things I've read online about cuttings recommend that you strip all but the top leaf or two and sink them pretty deep. The reasoning is that without roots, the plant can't support all those leaves, so it's energy goes to trying to stay alive instead of giving you the roots you want. I strip the leaves off, and roll the stem in hormone, and put them pretty deep in damp soil in the shade. If the top leaves are big, I cut those in half so they have the green for photosynthesis, but not the work of keeping that whole leaf alive. Also the leaf buds are a nice spot for roots to start.
Good luck! Hang in there!
This last winter I took about 30 dormant hardwood cuttings and attempted to root them with CloneX resulting in no signs of life. I am now going to attempt to air and ground layer greenwood limbs to see if that works.