Grapevine Cuttings and Propigation concerns

kdon65December 11, 2013

I am trying to start some grapevines from cuttings and I keep seeing several different how to's but just not sure one says cut-rooting hormone-stick in the ground- keep moist- (fine in cold weather just let them do thier thing) the other says cut-rooting hormone- wrap in napkin- wet- bag in fridge- pull out later- callous and roots should be there done then the next one is put in a jar of water and wait till roots form then the final way cut-rooting hormone- wrap in napkin- wet- put in a warm area (70-90) keep wet and then should root.

now my problem is who do I believe what works best now our current temps outside at night is mid 30's and durring the day its between 50-60's and sunny out side. So what I have done is I took the cuttings trimmed them down to the proper size I did strip a little bit of the bark off the bottom of the cutting (exposing the green cambium (i believe that is what it is called) and put the bottom 2 inches in the water and then dipped them into rooting hormone and I put them in a pot of potting soil then I watered the potting soil then I split up the plants half went outside in a sunny area on a table (at night I cover them with other pots to keep them a little protected at night) and the other half went into an old clod frame greenhouse (it is not in the best of shape a hole in the back where the seam of the vinyl cover split a little bit but they are slightly in a protected area) but I just am not sure if that is ok or not because I hear other people saying keep them protected and in temp's in the 70-90 area clearly they are not in those temps outside in the greenhouse durring the day they get into the low 70's but thats it so I just want others opinions on if they will be ok outside with my temps I got 40 cuttings out there and really dont want to loose them. I keep thinking they should be ok because alot of methods have the cuttings in the cold like the keep in the fridge for storage basically I got them in a natural fridge and as the weather heats up they should grow right i dont know help Oh they are Concord's Catabawa's Crimson's Temperano's

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I don't know what zone you are in but here in zone 5. I wait till late Febr. then I take hard wood cutting while they are dormant about 5 to 7 inches. Prune bottom end at a angle below a nod,dip in rooting hormone powder, make a hole for each cutting and put in moist sand at least 1/2 way or so and put them in a cool room or cave for the callous to form. Then when late March or early April I put them either in the ground with protection from the sun or in pots of potting mix or I mostly use sand perlite, and cover with plastic, but put in some props of some sort to keep the the plastic from touching the cuttings. keep out of the direct sun keep moist, but not wet and usually by May I've got top growth and I DON'T do the tug test just to see if there is resistance for proof of root growth. i'll find out by middle of June I carefully dig them out and pot up. Not all root, but most times I have at least 80% that do.

What zone are you in? and the last two Muscadine varieties ?

    Bookmark   December 11, 2013 at 9:49PM
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Starrling(7 Central Arkansas)

Am I reading most of these wrong or is it not clearly stated on most bottles of rooting hormone not to use on edible plants.

    Bookmark   April 8, 2014 at 11:35PM
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geoforce(z7a SE PA)

I've always used the winter cuttings in the refrigerator method. Never had to ever use rooting hormone on them.

Despite that, most commercial auxins (rooting hormones) are either indole acetic acid, indole butyric acid, or naphthalene acetic acid, and would have absolutely no affect on any grapes produced by those vines after they grew. Those statements are one of those general CYA requirements the government places in your way.


    Bookmark   April 15, 2014 at 1:46PM
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muscadines978(7, Dalton, Ga.)

I specialize in the propagation of Muscadine vines. I usually use a mixture of 3 part perlite t to 1 part peat moss. I use both a mist system and several Nearing Frames. I have equal success in both methods. Most of my cuttings set roots in about 5-6 weeks. In 8 weeks I pot them. If they haven't set roots in that period of time I pitch them. I usually have about a 95% success rate.

Here is a link that might be useful: Muscadines And More

    Bookmark   June 25, 2014 at 5:48AM
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muscadines978(7, Dalton, Ga.)

Hi Guys,
I had a special order from a lady who wanted 125 small grape vines this last May. She contacted me last Nov. and told me that no one else would grow them for her, so I accepted the order. Last Dec. I took about 400 cuttings, dipped them in Dip-N-Grow and filled a bunch of 1 gal containers with composted hard wood mulch. I stuck 25 cuttings per pot and then dug several trenches in one of my raised beds. Then I placed the pots in the trenches each one touching . I covered them with soil and left them alone all winter. In the beginning of April I dug them up and potted them having about a 99% success. A month later the lady picked them up, all 125 at an easy $4.00 per plant profit. I still had a bunch more small vines to sell. We were both happy!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: Muscadines And More

    Bookmark   June 25, 2014 at 5:54AM
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Got a questions for Muscadines987 . What zone are you in? When you put the 25 cutting in each pot about how long were the cuttings? Were they in bundles and completely under the medium? Horizontally or vertically? Or How deep into the medium? If not buried How many buds below the medium or how many buds above did you strive for? What was the diameter of the pots? Then when you covered them with soil I take it the cuttings were then completely covered over and about how much soil above the cuttings if any? When you dug these up was it before any buds started to swell? and what kind of grapes did she want?

    Bookmark   July 24, 2014 at 2:07PM
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