Need Some Advice for My Broken Plumeria
I live in Oregon and, naturally, I keep my 6-year-old plumeria indoors during the winter and move it outside to the sunniest spot I can during the summer. I keep it outside, in its 18" pot, until the night-time temperatures drop to the mid- or low-40's.
Yesterday, during a wind-storm, my plumeria was blown over, pot and all. When I saw it and rushed out to set it back upright, I found that a branch had broken off! The branch is about 12" long and has a 'Y' very close to its end. The branches of the 'Y' are no more than 2-1/2" in length. I'll post some pictures of the tree, the branch, the break and the wound in the mother tree. The picture below shows the wound.
I've done a good bit of reading, on this forum, and wish to thank all of those who have left such good advice for others on this forum. However I couldn't wade through all 329 results for 'broken plumeria', so I am hoping that I can summarize what I have learned here and ask one or two important questions I haven't yet found answers for. Please excuse my ignorance and forgive me if this approach constitutes bad manners on this forum.
My first and most important question has to do with my beloved tree. What, if anything, should I do to treat the wound created by the break? The branch has a kind of knob in the center, which has left a deep hole in the stem of the mother branch; I'm concerned about rot or other damage that could affect the entire tree.
Do I paint it with some substance to keep it from losing moisture and/or introducing rot? That seems to be the logical thing to do (and I've seen several postings that mention it) but I know nothing in this area and wouldn't want to do it if I shouldn't; nor do I know what, if anything, I should treat it with. Can you advise me on this?
Second, I want to root the broken branch, if at all possible. I gather from other forum postings that this is very do-able but I have never done it. My understanding is that I should:
1) Immediately remove the leaves to prevent moisture loss. Should I remove all the leaves or just the mature ones?
2) Several postings suggest cutting a branch into several cuttings. I assume that the tips on the 'Y' are probably too small for this approach; would that be correct?
3) Cut the end of the stem square to its axis and let it dry for a week or so to callus over. Some postings seem to suggest dipping the end in RooTone or other rooting formula as part of the callusing process; which is best?
4) After a week or so, plant it in a perlite/soil mix (mix seems to be anywhere from half-and-half to 2/3 perlite to 1/3 soil), water it thoroughly ONCE, stake it up to support it and then leave it alone.
4a) Autumn is setting in, here but I assume that I should go ahead and try to root this now.
4b) I also assume that I should put it in a large enough pot that I can leave it there, staked up and not watered, until spring.
I have a nice living room window with good southwest exposure to the winter sun ... when it shines (this is Oregon, after all). I have actually had this tree bloom once (and only once) and that happened in December of 2009, when I came home from the hospital after abdominal surgery. (I've always kind of thought that it bloomed out of pity and the spirit of aloha when it sensed my condition!) So it can get enough light to survive and grow, though spider mites tend to become a real problem after months indoors.
Any advice will be very gratefully received and carefully considered. Thanks in advance and thanks again to all those who have left the good advice that has gotten me this far!