What's the best way to get rid of bindweed???

Daisie - 5 DenverMay 10, 2000

My mom and I have bindweed in our flower beds. They are the worst garden offenders, I think. I've heard that Roundup is the way to go... paint or sponge it on the leaves. Has anyone been successfull at killing bindweed without damaging other plants nearby??? How long does it take??

Thanks in advance,


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I tried to pull them without luck so I gave up my no-chemical belief and sprayed them with Round-up w/ excellent results. Don't spray on windy days or else paint the center of the weed w/ a small brush and wait a few days for results. Be careful not to get Round-up on nearby plants however. Good luck

    Bookmark   May 11, 2000 at 7:11PM
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Nancy - 4-ID

I don't have much trouble with that weed here, but have heard the only way to get rid of it is Round Up: the roots go so deep. If the weeds are real close to other plants, put on a rubber glove, then a cotton garden glove on top of that, then dip gloved hand in RD UP solution and stroke on the leaves. Best way to control it.

    Bookmark   May 11, 2000 at 11:00PM
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polly - USDA 5 on a good da

One of my "good-ole-boy" neighbors said "the best way to get rid of it is to move". I'm beginning to understand after battling the blasted stuff for 20+ years!

    Bookmark   May 26, 2000 at 9:37AM
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caron - 5a-ish

This year I will be trying a mite that attacks the terminal growing point of the bindweed. I will let you all know how it goes.

    Bookmark   May 28, 2000 at 1:47PM
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Ann z5 IL

WHERE DO YOU GET THIS MITE??!!! (I know caps = shouting, but I AM shouting!!!) I've been pulling roundup for years with no visible effect and using roundup when I can't stands it no more...

    Bookmark   May 30, 2000 at 4:53PM
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Don't pull bindweed! Each time you pull it, it's like pinching back your plants--you are encouraging many more shoots to develop. So where you had one, you now have several from dormant buds. ALSO, NEVER ROTOTILL bindweed as each section will form a new plant. Well, if you promise to rototill each week for a number of years, yes, that might work. Roundup will work, but you are dealing with a plant with a root system that will go at least 40 feet and often double that. It takes time to kill that much root. Roundup doesn't show top death for seven to 10 days--it's working on the roots instead. Personally I find mixing my own Roundup with a drop of soap as a spreader sticker or using the newer "rain proof" formulations work better than the premix or older versions. Wait until the plant is just showing flower--applying before won't work as the plant isn't in "food storage" mode and won't translocate the chemical as well.
Some people have better luck with Finale--a relative of Roundup. Not me.
The suggestion of moving.........not a bad idea.

    Bookmark   July 4, 2000 at 12:53AM
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Kathy - SW VA MTS

I was pondering just this week that perhaps I should employ a gardening service to keep my grave cleared of this horrible thing. Once I asked a local nurseryman remarking that it was in my yard when I moved here. He replied, it will bwe here when you are dead and gone!

    Bookmark   August 14, 2000 at 7:16PM
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Aha, the evil cousin of the morning glory vine! Some experience and advice....

The garden was almost covered in bindweed when I bought my house. After 2-3 years of persistantly weeding away, 90% of the plants have not returned! My secret (not commercial chemicals) is to beat them at their own game.

1. Weed in spring, before flowers appear (they produce hundreds of seeds a season!)
2. Weed before, during and after your garden areas are planned out, turned and settled down. This keeps any bindweed pieces or seeds that end up deeply buried (due to tilling) dormant.
3. Weeding technique-very important! Weed while soil is moist and workable (late spring). I know this sounds laborious, but it works: Using a dandelion weeder tool, dig along main roots of weed carefully uprooting down to 12" or more. I've used a (long nosed) root shovel for large clumps, if necessary.
4. Remove even the smallest of bindweeds before the roots have developed.
5. If you see bindweed flowers in the summer, rip out flowering vines immediately, if you don't have time to dig them out. Don't miss one day--seeds, seeds, seeds...
6. Do not put removed weeds in compost, get them off your property (the dump) before the picked vines set seed.
7. These weeds do not do well in continual drought, keep the area on the dry side if you can't weed them right away.

Finally, realize that 2-3 years of ruthless weeding will almost eradicate this plant, and pay back time down the road for me was worth it. At the least, getting rid of newly formed flowers (i.e., seeds!) can prevent a new generation of this weed. Note that certain animal manures have bindweed seeds in them, so find out what they're grazing. (do a test plot) Unfortunately, newly tilled areas may awaken dormant seeds in years to come. Once germinated, weed at once. After a couple years, you should have bindweed, or any other weed treated in this manner, under control.

Anyone know the viability time of bindweed seeds?

    Bookmark   November 13, 2000 at 6:36PM
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Daisie - 5 Denver


Thanks for your response... it sounds like much persistance... well worth it at the end, I'm sure.

    Bookmark   December 10, 2000 at 3:04PM
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Jennifer - 6

My local agricultural extension advised me to pull it and pull it and pull it until you wear down the roots. This seems to work much better than poisoning it, but you have to be consistent. The second time it grows back the leaves are smaller but there are lots more vines. You have to get back to it within a couple of days of pulling it or you lose the battle.

I also heard that there is a time when Round Up can be very effective. The best conditions for poisoning bindweed are when the temperature is below 50 degrees, humidity is high and early in the day. This past September I ran my sprinklers early in the morning and then went out and sprayed Round Up while the humidity was still high. It's my understanding that under these conditions the poison is quickly fed back down to the root. I use this method in areas where the weeds are growing through other plants because most of my perennials are cut back by September. I won't know until spring how well this worked.

    Bookmark   January 2, 2001 at 12:01AM
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Dave Bowers

Essential oils have been used successfully on field bindweed. Oregano oil is what I vaguely remember, but I will need to confirm it. The trade off is that the cost of oils are quite high.

    Bookmark   January 13, 2001 at 6:35PM
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I agree that persistant pulling is the best way. After 3-4 years of really trying to keep on top of it, I am making headway. I grows back much slower and is not nearly as robust and healthy when it does. I'm starting to find lawn grass to be a bigger problem as it spreads into the flowerbeds.

I have heard that the seeds are viable up to 20 years!

The best time to spray is in the late fall just before the first freeze. This is when the plant is actively pulling down nutrients to it's root system for overwinter storage.

    Bookmark   January 15, 2001 at 3:24PM
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Helen - 5

My neighbor across the street was infested w/bindweed when she bought 4 yrs ago. Before I knew it she had her son out there TILLING the whole mess up. That summer I made friends w/her while she was bent over trying to pull the billions of weeds up. We both have bad backs & I am not opposed to chemical defoliation of these cancerous beasts. I've been spraying her front yard ever since to keep it at bay & out of MY yard. Three years of round-up on the bare areas & broad leaf on her lawn began to show some improvement. Then last fall her son TILLED again!!! Boys & their toys!!!

    Bookmark   March 5, 2001 at 1:29PM
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I was told by the extension agent to spray in the fall. My lawn had a lot of it when I sprayed last fall, and between the spraying and the lawn getting better established, I can't see any yet this year. I used Trimec.

    Bookmark   May 29, 2002 at 6:56PM
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gpbraunthum(z10b (Sunset24))

I have been battling bindweed for more than five years. I have learned to tolerate it in the vegetable garden since it frequently emerges right next to a tomato plant or in the middle of a beet bed where chemical controls could threaten the crop. I have had cases where I used Roundup on one head of it and then a tomato plant ten feet away starts dying back. When I dug up the tomato plant I found that the bindweed roots and tomato roots had "grafted" themselves together. I have since then just pulled the tops off through the growing season and then tilled when the veggies are through. As the bindweed re-emerges then I hit it with Roundup. Eradication? No. Control? Well sort of. My big concern now is that it is abundantly present in the yards on three sides of me and since the roots are so deep with many crowns growing from a common center, control is about all I can hope for. As for the "drought" approach it seems that if I hold back the wate rin a fallow area the bindweed continues vigorously and is the greenest thing in sight. Perhaps the roots are so deep that it is getting water from somebody elses flower bed. When your garden is on a small city lot many problems are difficult to control unless the whole neighborhood works together on it.

    Bookmark   June 28, 2002 at 2:15PM
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I use 2-4D,it's a chemical concentrate I purchased at a feed store.......cheaper than roundup. It won't kill grasses,good on clover and dandylions also!

    Bookmark   July 6, 2002 at 10:28AM
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mrsmig(z7 NoVA)

I, too, am being inundated by bindweed - it started in my neighbor's yard two summers ago and keeps trying to make headway into mine. The first year, my husband and I kept it at bay by pulling it off the chain link fence that divides the two properties, but then DH roto-tilled my vegetable garden this spring (which runs alongside the same chain link fence) and I had little bindweed babies all over the garden, alongside my baby veggies.

In desperation, I weeded once more, then covered the ground in the veggie garden with a black, water-permeable plastic mulch sheet (I cut holes in it for the veggie plants). This has done a fair job of keeping the bindweed at bay. Although the stuff continues to spill over and under the fence from my neighbor's yard, it has nowhere to spread because of the plastic.

My neighbor spent a whole weekend pulling and digging at the stuff (it had completely covered one of his rhodie bushes and just about killed it) but within a week the bindweed had taken over again. Now, a month later, it's as if my neighbor had never weeded at all (yesterday, I noticed that the bindweed even is climbing up a fifteen foot evergreen in his yard).

I know I haven't solved the problem, but I'm reluctant to try RoundUp because of the bindweed's proximity to my vegetables. Once I'm done harvesting, though, I'm pulling everything out of the veggie plot (including a grapevine) and the destruction will begin. I'm even considering letting the vegetable garden lie fallow next year (or relocating it to a different part of the yard). However, until my neighbor gets his bindweed under control, I'm afraid my fight will go on.

    Bookmark   July 29, 2002 at 9:47AM
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On plastic mulch:

"Plasticulture is the study of the use of plastics in agriculture. Covering mulch with wide strips of black plastic to raise soil temperature and inhibit weed growth is a widely accepted practiceÃAmericans use about 200 million pounds of plastic mulch each year. Recent studies suggest that, although black plastic mulch provides marked benefits, other colors may offer even greater yields. Professor Orzolek has shown that most plants have a particular, and sometimes peculiar, color preference: ÃTomatoes are partial to red, potatoes favor pale blue or white, and turnips donÃt think orange is too bad.Ã Internal pigments, called phytochromes, serve as chemical Ãeyes.Ã By reacting to different spectra of light, they signal the plant how best to use its resources. Some colors promote root growth, and others can increase fruit and vegetable yields by as much as 30 percent. The Center for Plasticulture is at the very forefront of colored-mulch research, but a few of the lessons theyÃve learned can even be applied to a small backyard garden. Some of the colors are still in experimental trials, but rolls of red polyethylene mulch covering, suitable for tomatoes and strawberries, are available from major garden-supply companies."

American Society for Plasticulture

    Bookmark   August 21, 2002 at 12:22PM
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After spending my first spring amending the soil in my new home's back flower bed and planting it with flowers, I found out I had bindweed. No matter what I did, it wouldn't go away. It started climbing all my flowers, strangling them and taking over.

To get rid of it, I followed this plan:

1) dig up all the flowers, plants, bulbs, etc., and hose off their roots with water to make sure there aren't any little bindweed bits hiding within.

2) re-level the bed and create a slope away from the house.

3) cover the entire area with weed mat. Do NOT save any of your existing soil even if you did put many many bags of top quality compost into it.

4) add soil/compost over the mat.

5) replant above the mat -- don't poke holes in the mat to put plants roots through.

So far, it's worked very well for me. And, I've been keeping an eye on a neighbor's garden. He has tried to kill his bindweed with chemical sprays and continues to have trouble with it.

Kill the Bindweed!

    Bookmark   September 6, 2002 at 4:01PM
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catladysgarden(z5 CO)

I learned that bindweed will give up if you keep depriving it of it's foliage. You don't need to pull it up by the roots. Just jerk the tops off whenever they appear. You'll be rid of it in a season

    Bookmark   September 9, 2002 at 3:29AM
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The only thing I can add to the above is when using chemicals be sure to follow the directions on mixing/diluting exactly. If the mix is too strong, the foliage will die before the poison can reach those deep roots. NanciJ

    Bookmark   September 30, 2002 at 12:33PM
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gmatx zone 6

Bindweed - oh that scourge of gardeners! Yes, there is a mite than can be used to control and eventually kill the bindweed. It is available only in Colorado and Texas from either your county agent or your USDA research group (possibly the University of Southern Colorado). These mites will only eat bindweed. They are microscopic and live within the cellular structure of the plant. They winter over in the roots of the plant. We have had them for two years and are seeing good results. If I can find some of our bindweed that has not gone dormant, I will take pictures and post them under this thread so you can see what it does to the bindweed. You cannot get rid of bindweed by covering it with black plastic. Roundup works good if you spray at the proper time. The plant is most receptive to the spraying when it begins to bloom in the spring and again just as it gets ready for its final blooming of the season in August. Also, mix two tablespoons of liquid dish soap in each gallon of spray. The soap breaks down the coating on the leaves and allows the spray to penetrate the cells better. Also, make sure the bindweed is not stressed (dry/drought) when you spray as this reduces the effectiveness of any spray.

Good luck - this lovely battle goes on and on and on.......


    Bookmark   November 9, 2002 at 2:02PM
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Rosa(4ish CO Rockie)

The Colorado Insectory in Palisades has these mites as well as USDA at Texas A&M. Your County Ag agent/extension agent will know how to secure them for you thru the insectory or thru Colorado State University in Fort Collins. It does well here on the Front Range and needs a year or so to establish. The mite is best placed in bindweed that gets regular mowing as this spreads the mite far and wide.

The seeds of bindweed have been found to be viable for 50 years.

    Bookmark   November 12, 2002 at 7:36AM
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I found the only thing that works to destroy bindweed (and thistles) is cover it with six to eight inches of a mix of 25% manure and 75% straw. The horse manure should be fresh; the theory behind this is that you are making the soil too rich for the weed to grow. You can do this in the fall/winter, and by spring your weeds should be dead and will refuse to grow.

Also, don't be alarmed if you find that your garden is steaming when it heats up in the springtime; this is just the stuff decomposing.

Apply as needed; we did this one year on a 25x40-foot garden which was COMPLETELY infested, and the bindweed was gone after one application. We didn't see any more for years; it took several years for a second application to be necessary (it comes back gradually).

You can check vets offices or various stables for horse manure...it used to be that this was cheap/free, but these days they're starting to charge.


    Bookmark   November 26, 2002 at 9:11PM
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There have been some good suggestions, but some seem horribly labor intensive, and some not practical for the lawn. If the stuff is in your lawn it will reinfest your beds.
1) for beds: spray bind weed as it begins to come up in the spring with 2-4-D, which usually can be purchased separately at nurseries or independent flower shops. It is also one of the main ingredients of Trimec, which is sold by Ortho as Weed-be-gone, or by other big name brands. This is a BROAD-leaf weed killer and is generally safe for lawns but NOT your flowers so be careful and don't spray on a windy day. After spraying the young bindweed hammer an empty tin can over it to deprive it of light. If your infestation is like the ones I deal with the bed will turn into a tin can garden, but this WORKS!!! Depriving the young shoots of light draws nutrients down into the roots, and the 2-4-D with it. It also shuts down the sugar manufacturing at the heart of bindweed metabolism, and the roots, no matter how deep, will eventually succumb.

2)for the lawn: hire me!!(just kidding); I dislike using synthetic chemicals, but I make exceptions for this pest. Kill the bindweed, kill the bindweed is my consuming goal!! Again, I use 2-4-D, but I spot spray with a little higher concentration. In states like mine you can only spray your entire lawn two times per year if you use a spray containing 2-4-D, BUT you can spot spray as many times as you like. I spot spray once per month, and don't do any full-lawn applications. I believe the spray is most effective when done after the first frost when the plant is starting to suck down nutrients and is going dormant, but this alone will not get rid of it. Another tactic I have used with success is to spot-spray in early September, and then stop mowing. The grass will grow to 8+ inches choking out light to the beaten-down bindweed, and at least triples the effectiveness of the spray. Don't mow again until the end of Oct.

3) whatever you do, don't let this stuff go to flower!! Pick the flowers, and then spray it. Mow the flowers, etc. The seedlings are a LOT easier to get rid of than the mature plants(after all I've been writing on how to do this for a long time), so dig/hoe them up, and then the next week spray what survives this. I find digging or pulling up the mature plants to be a waste of time or just too much work.

Kill the bindweed!! and happy gardening.
P.S. And for those of you out there using this mite - share! I will pay for some nice infested bindweed. Email me.

    Bookmark   December 1, 2002 at 12:48AM
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kristenmarie(Z4-5/New Mexico)

New Mexico ag agents also have the mite -- I applied it last summer after getting it from the New Mexico Cooperative Extension Alcalde agriculture research center ... we'll see how it goes. Some great suggestions! I might try the manure/hay trick...


    Bookmark   April 2, 2003 at 6:19PM
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animas(z5-SW Colo)

Proof that the bindweed battle is everlasting... this thread has been going on for almost three years. Very cool (the thread, not bindweed)!

Thank heavens my new place has only a few stray grasses and a thistle or two. I hated bindweed at my old house. I used to take clear produce bags and punch a little hole in the bottom. Then I would pull the bindweed through the hole. I would cram several yards of vine and leaves inside. Then I would spray inside with RoundUp, seal it with a twist-tie, and set the bag down in the sun. The RoundUp wouldn't get on any other plants, and the clear plastic would create a warm "greenhouse" for maximum poison downloading from the leaves to the roots. This was time consuming but worth it. I cleared bindweed out of the daylillies in one summer.

    Bookmark   April 3, 2003 at 1:26PM
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Is bindweed the same as Morning Glory?

I thought I read somewhere that Morning Glory was an annual and bindweed a perennial. If so, how can you tell them apart?

    Bookmark   April 4, 2003 at 1:53PM
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Mercy_Garden(z5 Santa FeNM)

You can tell its a morning glory if you can kill it!

Seriously, they are related plants. You are correct that MG is annual, and bindweed is apparently eternal. Bindweed has small, arrow-head shaped leaves, and smaller (smaller than a quarter) white flowers often with light pink to lavendar throats. Once you've seen it stangling your garden you'll never mistake it for its tame, lovely annual cousin again! MG leaves are usually larger (.50 piece), heart-shaped, and the flowers larger generally with darker colors in the bloom but a white throat (there are so many new and wonderful MG out there, now, that they surely defy description!)

    Bookmark   April 9, 2003 at 10:51PM
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kristenmarie(Z4-5/New Mexico)

The mites have not worked for me. I will reapply but I'm not sure they are going to be sufficient. I am trying solarization, smothering (newspaper/cardboard) and the manure/hay trick over large portions of ground this next year-- I'll report back next year when this thread is four years old.


    Bookmark   August 11, 2003 at 4:31PM
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I'm disappointed to hear of your lack of success with the mites. They are the last, best hope for those of us with bindweed that comes in from neighbors. What do you think was the problem? Did the mites die? Did they not spread? Did they not control the bindweed?

    Bookmark   August 12, 2003 at 9:58AM
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tarbucky(Z4 CO)

Sometimes roundup will work but not always. Are you in Denver? I purchase a wonderful product at Paulino's on 64th and Broadway. It is made for farmers - it is pretty strong stuff - you want to wear plastic gloves but just be careful and you'll be fine. I use about 1/2 cup of it to a gallon and half of water. I especially like it because it doesn't hurt the lawn grass - I have bindweed of course in the flowerbeds but in the lawn too. Also, it works really well if you have an ash tree in the lawn. Those millions of seeds try to grow - a light spraying of this stuff on the bindweed and other weeds works. Sometimes I'll need to do it once a week for two or three weeks but it'll be gone. Depends on how old the plant is and how deep the roots go. In the flowerbed, wrap plastic bags or newspaper around the flowers, separating out the bindweed and then spray till wet. Once it is dry you can remove the protection off your flowers. I guarantee this stuff is what you need. I'll try to look when I get home what the name of it is. Email me back at home and I can answer you this weekend. my address is whiz-electric@comcast.net . Oh - this stuff lasts for years - I forget and leave it in the shed over winter and it freezes - it still works. Roundup doesn't. If you don't use the roundup before winter forget it.

    Bookmark   August 14, 2003 at 12:55PM
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Freezing ruins Roundup?

A just spend $80 bucks on a big jug of concentrate. Guess I'll bring it inside for the winter. How about heat? Does heat damage it?

    Bookmark   August 15, 2003 at 9:38AM
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Rosa(4ish CO Rockie)

what is the chemical you are using?

    Bookmark   August 16, 2003 at 3:10PM
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david52 Zone 6

Re storing roundup concentrate: I buy a 2 1/2 gallon jug of super-concentrate from a farmer coop every few years. I keep it in the garage, I don't think it freezes, but is does get toasty in there during the summer. I have not noticed any deterioration over a 3 yr period.
I use a cheapo plastic turkey baster to measure the stuff into a sprayer, the baster is useless after a summer but better that than my hands. It seems to me that I spelled that wrong.

    Bookmark   August 16, 2003 at 7:47PM
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Sometimes it is best to give nature something to do. Like most all Colorado properties, I have my share of bindweed in my garden. My approach is to give it something else to do, instead of choking my veggies, herbs and flowers.

I place small wire fences and trellis type objects need each infestation. Then I allow the weed to do what is does naturally, wind its way along the fence or up the trellis. Since it has something to do, it leaves my garden plants alone.

Some of my herbs and marigolds are just inches way. The trick is to just keep tucking the vine back into the fence or trellis. Just the same way you would for any vine (morning glories, ivy, peas, etc.) The best part is that it is a lot safer than nuclear or chemical warfare.

Just my 2 cents,

Sandy - Lady Aspen

    Bookmark   August 16, 2003 at 7:49PM
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I see that this thread has been going on for more than 3 years, and I appreciate all these tips and quips, but I still have a few questions:

I tilled (as required by the City of Greeley to get a watering variance for a new lawn) in 3+ cubic yards of manure compost into my dead lawn last spring. I did not remove the dead sod. I seeded tall fescue. Bindweed quickly overtook it. All I had was bindweed and crabgrass. I spayed 2-4d. Much of the bindweed kicked the bucket. (My wife said it looked better when it was green).

My questions are:
Once the bindweed looks brown, you're supposed to rake and/or pull it, right?
And now that I just have bare dirt, can I reseed this fall, or should I wait till spring? (The bottle of poison said to wait 4 weeks. Is that enough?)
I don't plan on tilling again (duh!), but should I try to dig through the dirt and get as much of the old sod out, like I should have done in the first place?
Can I lay compost (dairy cow manure) on top of the dirt and seed in that? (I would wait a couple weeks to seed, of course.)

Advice greatly appreciated!

    Bookmark   August 25, 2003 at 12:54PM
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If you put down compost, especially if it is fairly fresh manure, unless you are absolutely sure it is weed free, you'll want to wait for the weed seeds to sprout before you plant. I've had all sorts of interesting things come up out of supposedly well composted cow manure. This means either watering the bare dirt, or waiting until spring. The old sod will compost if you leave it over the winter, so you won't even need to worry about that. So, the lazy way out is to spread some straw over the dirt and wait 'til spring, spot spraying anything that comes up in the meantime.

    Bookmark   August 25, 2003 at 1:51PM
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mrsmig(z7 NoVA)

I noticed my post of last year and thought I'd update on this year's Battle of the Bindweed.

We've had an extremely wet spring and summer (and what's shaping up to be a wet fall) and the bindweed was once more taking over my neighbor's garden and the chain link fence that separates our properties. Rather than let my garden lie fallow this season as threatened, I ripped out the grapevine and then planted my usual tomato/pepper/melon/basil combination, using the water permeable weed-block fabric I used last year. I then watched in dismay as the bindweed crept over, under and through the fence, although the fabric kept it out of my garden plot. The tendrils, though, kept reaching from the chainlink to grab my precious tomato plants, as well as a nearby lilac bush.

In early summer, with the bindweed blanketing the fence, my husband and I gave up and bought a big container of Round-Up. First, we pulled up all the bindweed we could see in our yard. Second, we used a large sheet of cardboard to protect my neighbor's plantings as we sprayed the tendrils on the fence. Third, we repeated as necessary - which, during this rainy year, was about every two to three days. My neighbor, who had gloomily predicted that the Round-Up wouldn't work, suddenly got inspired and started pulling and treating on his side. The blitz worked - by mid-July, the stuff was gone (knock wood). Much to my relief, my vegetable garden wasn't affected by the chemicals - in fact, I had a very good year, with one beefsteak tomato plant topping out at over twelve feet and producing two and three pound fruit, and a basil plant that is hip-high and finally had to be supported with a stake.

Of course, I'm not naive enough to think the bindweed is gone for good. The other day I noticed a little patch of it under my neighbor's rhodie bush (yes, the same bush that was nearly strangled with it last year - it survived, but it's pretty lopsided). I'm itching to jump the fence and pull it...

    Bookmark   October 14, 2003 at 10:12PM
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david52 Zone 6

There are those who disparage the use of roundup, but they do not, on the whole, have bind weed. I buy a 2 gal jug of super concentrate, it lasts about 3 years here on 3 acres, and I'm now down to two sprayings a year, once about now, and once in mid-june. It keeps it under control, and a lot of it has disappeared for good.

    Bookmark   October 14, 2003 at 11:04PM
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alex147(z4ish BC Canada)

I posted earlier this week about an idea in the weed forum, but now I am alost thinking abbout just giving up on the bed that it is in and moving what I can, and sterilizing the whole bed. BUT if the roots are as long as you say that will not work either. IS there a way to get rid of it even if you sacrifice the other plants? Just a question, I could never give up my Jacob's ladder and clematis.

    Bookmark   October 17, 2003 at 9:55PM
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manp26(z5 UT)

I turned to chemicals out of desperation. I am interested in trying your suggestions for the bindweed that's infested the lawn. A local garden center had this "cocktail" on a free flyer. It works quite well on isolated plants -- only need to apply two or three times per summer. They are correct that it kills everything, so be careful. I've read that you can also thread the sprayer head through a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off and use that to further localize the spray.

T= tablespoon, t = teaspoon

Mix together:

12 T Round-Up concentrate
4 T Weed-A-Lawn or high grade Trimec
2 t spreader/sticker
4 T vinegar
1 gallon water

Put in a good sprayer (hand held trigger sprayer, plastic tank sprayer or plastic spritzer).

Cut back tall target plants to 4-6 good leaves. On a windless day, soak targets plants foliage to the point of run-off. Let dry for 48 hours. Usually kills the plant in 2  3 days.

This solution may kill any plant whose foliage it contacts, so be careful.

Repeat after 10 days if plant is still alive. Plants with huge, established root system may take several applications. Two - three applications per growing season keep the bindweed in check.


Also reported to work on: old dandelions, violets, geum, star of Bethlehem, wild onion/garlic, grape hyacinth, Canadian thistle and grass.

    Bookmark   June 17, 2004 at 4:29PM
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12 Tablespoons of Roundup is a pretty potent killer by itself in a gallon of water. I've read that using too strong a solution is self-defeating because you kill the plant top before it has a chance to get to the roots.

    Bookmark   June 24, 2004 at 12:11PM
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Rosa(4ish CO Rockie)

Re the foumula posted above....
That it may kill foliage on contact is useless as both the Roundup and Trimec must be translocated into the root system of the plant to be effective. If you burn down the foliage first then the rest of the chemicals are not absorbed.
Another gross mistake is to cut the weeds and then spray. All labels for the ingredients specifically say to apply on actively growing weeds. Or wait till adequate re-growth before spraying.
Spraying to runoff is not necessary. Spraying to wet the foliage is all that is needed.

The rates listed for both Roundup and Trimec are fine. 12T of Roundup is a 5% solution and is commonly used and does not exceed label directions.
The household vinegar is more effective used without mixing with water.

Yes it may work but it is a waste of money and time from all standpoints. Overapplication is a waste, spraying on newly cut weeds is a waste and neither chem will work if the tops are burned down faster than the plant can absorb it. The household vinegar is cheap and can is used straight to burn down the tops of the plants. But it does nothing to kill deep seated, tough perennials like Canada thistle. It's not absorbed ito the roots in any way-not even mixed with other chemicals. And is not particularly effective at this rate diluted in a gallon of water. So why include it??
Also, 10 days may not quite be enough for the chems to work depending on the weather. I've had to wait up 3 weeks at times.
You will be better off using one chemical and using it properly by reading and following the label.

Just wondering if the garden center that puts out this flyer just happens to have all the ingredients on hand for purchase ;-)

    Bookmark   June 25, 2004 at 10:12AM
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Rosa(4ish CO Rockie)

Forgot to put this in as is the most important.....
Roundup is a non-selective (kills everything) herbicide and the Trimec and Weed-A-Lawn are selective broadleaf herbicides.
And the point is what to include both here if the Roundup will kill everything applied at a rate that works really well? Chemical sales for the garden center???

    Bookmark   June 25, 2004 at 10:25AM
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Something I haven't seen, and I think I have read this entire thread:

Strip a few inches of leaves off of a bindweed 'branch.'
Poke a pin-hole in a small glass jar with a good, not concentrated shrub killer in it. Slip the branch into the jar. The thought is to wick the toxin into the roots directly. I found that concentrate kills the branch before it 'wicks.' And I imagine this works better in the fall.
Doing this, one finds out which bindweeds are attached to which and how many sub-surface individual networks there are...
I still refuse to try this in my vegetable Garden. I want no risk of lethal carrots.

    Bookmark   June 26, 2004 at 3:54AM
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this stuff is a nightmare. I am a renter, thank god, and I would never buy a house with a lawn infected like mine. Its actually grown through the foundation of the house and is growing through the hardwood floors! Also my landlord said it is invading the main water line, which he tries to clean out as best he can every year.

very creepy.

    Bookmark   June 27, 2004 at 12:26PM
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In my experience 2,4D (weed and feed, weed-be-gone) applied according to directions (i.e. not when daytime temp. is above 85) does work quite well to control bindweed in normal turf grass. (Don't use it on buffalo grass.)

Pulling all visible vines up, waiting about two weeks and applying roundup to new growth works well in flower beds. The new growth tends to appear as a small low clump that is actively growing and transporting nutrients (and hence poison) to the roots. The fact that the new growth is low and unobtrusive also helps curb my sometimes irresistable urge to pull up the plant before the roundup has completely killed it.

I have had nearby plants die occasionally. As I'm pretty carefull about overspray, I suspect that their roots may have been interlaced with the bindweed. I have noticed bindweed runners going right through my dalia tubers for instance.

    Bookmark   June 28, 2004 at 1:28PM
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I am building a house on a 1/2 acre lot and have all sorts of fill ( no top soil yet) and I already know that I have bindweed---and we have not even finished grading the yard. I will plant and move in during the Spring.

Any suggestions on what to do with lots of dirt in a big yard. If I cover it with plastic, the Home Owners Association will have a fit. I thought I would start getting my duckies in a row for the Spring.

    Bookmark   January 16, 2005 at 8:58AM
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lama(z7a NM)

I just wanted to thank everyone for this great post on bindweed. I just bought a house with a yard overgrown with weeds. At first I thought it was just a foxtail type grass weed, but everywhere that I managed to clear that out, it got immediately covered with bindweed! The crazy thing is that the infestation is way worse in my front yard which is covered in the plastic and gravel so common in the southwest. I would have thought that would help with the weeds, but the bindweed seems to have broken right through the plastic and into the ground below.

I was just curious if anyone had any success with things like bleach, vinegar (I know someone mentioned this), and I saw my neighbor using paint thinner one day? I just really hate to go buy poison (but from reading this board it doesn't sound like I have much option).

    Bookmark   May 19, 2005 at 6:47PM
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I live just north of Denver. The first three years I tried weeding, but the bindweed multiplied faster than I could weed it.

I also made the mistake (being new to the area) of tilling up my garden spot. It quickly became a haven for bindweed.
So in the garden I tried smothering it with black plastic for two years. It grew underneath the plastic and broke through all by itself.

I finally yielded to the chemical urge. I used 2-4-D for three years and it is now beaten back to a controllable stage. My grass is growing well now and tends to outfight the bindweed. I have to spray a few tendrils that pop up, but it is no longer dominant. I would not use Round Up, since it kills the grass too. 2-4-D is also effective on dandelions and thistles, which are also rampant in my yard. It does not kill wild geraniums. I have to weed those by hand.

After three years of using herbicide I finally have more grass than weeds in my yard.

signed: a former organic gardener

    Bookmark   May 20, 2005 at 5:31PM
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I seem to remember reading somewhere that a medium-sized thermonuclear device might do the job.

I'd be disinclined to take that approach. For one thing, thermonuclear devices tend to be somewhat nonselective. Also, since medium-sized wasn't really defined, I'd be concerned that I wouldn't eradicate the bindweed, and the radiation might cause it to mutate into something that is less vulnerable.

Instead, I mostly pull it as soon as I see it (and never toss it in the compost), and I've been seeing it less and less often.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2005 at 2:05AM
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jnfr(z5b CO)

I was also ignorant of this scourge when we bought our house. There was a nice 45 ft by 15 ft area that had been used for vegetables and then left to weeds. So as my first act in re-creating a veggie garden, I rented a tiller and tilled the whole area. It's been terrible ever since.

Since I'm growing veggies here in raised beds, I don't want to use chemicals (I have used Roundup very effectively on thistle in the yard, and have very little of that left now). Mostly I pull the tops and take roots out where I can (I've seen some roots of this under my raised beds that were more than an inch thick). I suspect I could vanquish it if I could keep trimming the sprouts all summer, but invariably the heat hits mid-season and I can't stand to be out there weeding every day.

Mostly I take the advice a friend got from a local expert. When she asked what she could do about bindweed in her garden, the expert said "Lower your expectations". So that's what I do. I figure if I can keep it to a dull roar and still manage to grow my flowers and veggies, I'm doing okay.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2005 at 1:27PM
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I don't know what all the fuss is. Our yard used to be chock full of bindweed. But then I tried my own special combination of ingredients. It's all natural and you need to apply in only once. I've been bindweed free for 3 years now. I've never revealed it to anyone before so write it down. Take one gallon of a;hahllja hiyqy

[Note from Canyon's wife] my husband has collapsed at his computer and I'll let you know if he recovers. Hope this silly bindweed thing isn't important.

    Bookmark   May 23, 2005 at 1:50PM
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friesfan1(5b NW-KS)

I for one would like to know what the natural ingredients to kill bindweed are. My yard is chock full of it also. ANY help would be appreciated.
I want to plant trees, flowers, and a nice garden on my new property, but this can be a loosing battle!
Thanks for any and all solutions in this thread.
zone 5b KS

    Bookmark   June 7, 2005 at 11:07AM
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ljrmiller(z7 NV)

Poison the stuff with Roundup or Tordon. Then after that sets it back just a LITTLE, go at it with any other toxic chemical you think will work, like concentrated hydrochloric acid or Agent Orange or a tactical nuke. Then go after the survivors from that with a flamethrower. Then go after the survivors with a hoe. Repeat for the rest of your life. Bindweed will be right there with the cockroaches and Pseudomonas bacteria when Armageddon hits.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2005 at 1:06PM
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david52 Zone 6

A good, thick and healthy lawn will control a lot of it, but its still there. In the vegetable garden, I just keep on pulling it. In the flowers, I'm finding a good mulch helps, and pulling. Then, out in the border areas where I spray, I discovered that a combination of Roundup and Weed Master (Dicamba and 2-4D) will firzzle just about anything in a matter of hours, and the bindweed that does manage to come back is waving a white flag. Wait a minute, perhaps it's just flowering. .....

    Bookmark   June 7, 2005 at 1:20PM
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If you really want to stick with a natural approach, I think it's perfectly natural to resort to Roundup.

As far as I know, the only nonchemical approach is to keep pulling them every time you see them. If you keep on top of it (by that I mean almost daily pulling) long enough, it will start to have an effect.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2005 at 8:32PM
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friesfan1(5b NW-KS)

Wow! If I tried to do this I would be sitting in my hard til next winter! But certainly something I could give a try to.
zone 5b KS
****************** *****************

Posted by: JamesCO z7 We CO (My Page) on Sat, Jun 26, 04 at 3:54

Something I haven't seen, and I think I have read this entire thread:
Strip a few inches of leaves off of a bindweed 'branch.'
Poke a pin-hole in a small glass jar with a good, not concentrated shrub killer in it. Slip the branch into the jar. The thought is to wick the toxin into the roots directly. I found that concentrate kills the branch before it 'wicks.' And I imagine this works better in the fall.
Doing this, one finds out which bindweeds are attached to which and how many sub-surface individual networks there are...
I still refuse to try this in my vegetable Garden. I want no risk of lethal carrots.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2005 at 10:47PM
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climbergirl(z5 SLC, UT)

My entire backyard was bindweed, and I've had some success digging down a foot, removing all roots, covering the soil with a triple-layer of cardboard, then covering with raw woodchips ($90 for 5 yards from a tree-removal service)I hand-pluck anything that gets through, and last spring I raked aside the woodchips, re-dug a few spots, and put down new cardboard. It was hard work, but this is the third spring, and there is very little bindweed left! I do have beds between the wood chips, but I've been persistently hand weeding those during the summer, and double dig and pull out any roots every spring.

    Bookmark   June 8, 2005 at 4:30PM
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Rosa(4ish CO Rockie)

>I was just curious if anyone had any success with things like bleach, vinegar (I know someone mentioned this), and I saw my neighbor using paint thinner one day? I just really hate to go buy poison (but from reading this board it doesn't sound like I have much option).>

Well, better to stick with known, approved herbicides than homemade mixed ones. The bleach and the paint thinner are not herbicides and are most definately poisons! Vinegar may cause somne setback but once again does not get absorbed by the plant into the roots.
Tordon is a Restricted Use Product and cannot be bought without a proper license. And imho, overkill for the job.

    Bookmark   June 11, 2005 at 8:12AM
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It just goes to show the depth of the propaganda campaign when people will pour paint thinner into the soil before they use Roundup. To quote Charleton Heston in Planet of the Apes, "It's a maaaaadhouse."

    Bookmark   June 14, 2005 at 12:43PM
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Benmd(z4 UT)

Don't despair. I have had good luck killing bindweed prior to planting 2 new yards over the past decade. My bindweed laughed at both 2-4 D or Roundup alone. Mixed together at their individually appropriate strengths, they work well at killing all living plant life in my yard that they touch, including bindweed. However, I have used Weedmaster for years and it kills bindweed without harming either bluegrass or naturalized grasses(sheep fescue, crested wheatgrass etc.) I thought this was a safer way to go then mixing products. There are other effective products with multiple broadleaf agents available for both residential and commercial use, but I don't know the names. I have never had luck with a single agent product. I would love to use organic methods but found them too time intensive for this noxious weed. Go to IFA or to a larger garden store/nursery/seed store and read the ingredients. Look for multiple active ingredients with high concentrations in a broadleaf herbicide and ask questions. You likely won't find the high quality products at a big box store. Most high quality products have a surfactant so you do not need to add soaps. Do not buy a soil sterilant. Follow directions, wear long sleeves and pants, shoes and socks when spraying yada yada yada. Good luck.

    Bookmark   July 4, 2005 at 2:54AM
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roflol(Z6 MO)

Holy mackerel! I found this thread while looking for a way to "save" sedum cuttings for a freecycle. I also have bindweed, didn't used to be too bad but I think I let it go to seed once and that's all she wrote. I will try the "bag it with Round-up" option for the ones that get that big (I pulled a lot of them down when I dug up the daylilies they were residing in), and simple Round-up with a spreader sticker for the new growth (sounds like I timed it well, it's mid October and just got foggy/rainy out.

But I mostly wrote because I was actually laughing out loud at Canyon Home's May 23 post. You *stinker*!!!! I was excited for the 5 seconds it took me to read that first part!

    Bookmark   October 20, 2005 at 1:27PM
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Jeanne_in_Idaho(z5 N.Idaho)

Bindweed must be extremely perennial, as it never gets mature enough to flower in our short cold summers, but takes over the world anyway. I guarantee it's not spreading by seeds. However, I've had good results hand-weeding it persistently, as soon as it's identifiable. I assume that exhausts the roots eventually. You absolutely MUST get them when they are still small, or the roots will be strong enough to keep making strong plants. Beds I've been hand-weeding persistently have no bindweed after 2-3 years.

Beware manures, though! I introduced alpaca manure to a formerly-bindweed-free bed, one I didn't hand-weed, and ended up with a jungle of bindweed climbing the sunflowers.

Hand-weeding may not be the answer for large areas, but it works well for beds.


    Bookmark   December 7, 2005 at 11:48AM
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goldpan(z5 colo)

bindweed killer
4 tablespoons killzall
2 tablespoons weed out
1 gallon water

    Bookmark   January 4, 2006 at 2:57PM
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Finally, the post of my dreams (nightmares???). "Kill the bindweed, Kill the bindweed..."

Thank-you one and all for the advice and the humor! Esp to ljrmiller's June 7, 05 post... i laughed sooo hard - this after having spent hours in the garden pulling/poking/plastic sacking our bindweed.

My only advice. BEWARE of compost. We did not have this when we moved in, now everyone near us (and beyond) is infested with the stuff (three families shared a huge load of compost). Our current compost supplier says we should sue the sucker that sold us bindweed infested mint compost....

and second do NOT use black plastic. Bindweed roots love it under there.

Back to the garden to battle this beast.....knowing I am not alone!

    Bookmark   July 9, 2006 at 3:37PM
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friesfan1(5b NW-KS)

I see this thread is still alive and well. Just like most of
my bindweed !

This question is for Goldpan.
I have never heard of KILLZALL or WEEDOUT. At least not
from my location. Does it come under any other names?

    Bookmark   August 2, 2006 at 6:43PM
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Being new homeowners, my husband and I didn't know anything about gardening or weeds when we moved into our first home two years ago. When we had our yard professionally landscaped last September, we asked the landscaper to preserve the vine with the pretty white flowers. Fortunately, the landscaper told us he hated the "weed" and ingnored our request. Of course the weed returned this spring but it wasn't so pretty among the new plantings. I searched the web for answers and learned I had a beast on my hands called BINDWEED! I love Roundup, but won't use it the beds for fear I'll kill the new plantings (I've caused other inadvertant death by Roundup). Thus, I committed to pulling the bindweed every day. I've made progress and I'm now obessed with overcoming the beast. Pulling the weed has become strangely therapuetic. In three months of pulling, I've gone from about 20 plants a day to 5 weak little sprouts today. The poster in this thread who said bindweed in lawns will get back in your beds scared me...Tomorrow I will use WeedBeGone to kill the growth in my lawn!

    Bookmark   August 5, 2006 at 10:54PM
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I recently saw a thread on another forum where somebody in England would dilute roundup to 1/3 strength, put it in jars, put the bindweed (still growing) in the jars and partially bury the jars to anchor them. He did that so that the bindweed would die slowly and absorb more roundup and send it to the roots. Apparently he had really good luck with that method.

I read somewhere that herbicides are most effective on bindweed in late fall because that's when it's really storing sugars in the roots for the winter.

I've found that really diligent pulling weakens it to the point where it isn't much of a problem. But you need to be really diligent, pulling as soon as you see any of it.

    Bookmark   August 6, 2006 at 6:45PM
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hi, all.

i did a test-run of that method, and there are lovely brown bindweed-patches there now. so i've sunk two large cans in another spot (directly opposite the first two), thus nearly surrounding the calendula-and-day lily bed i have.

right now i'm pulling the flowering vines and ones with pods. it's horrid: a full one-fourth of my lot (the back-most part) has been taken over by this nasty weed. if it would stay on the fence and make its pretty little flowers, i'd not mind so much.

i do get a giggle, though, when i see bindweed strangling another weed...


PS: i'm in idaho. any black-market mite-dealers here? hehe.

    Bookmark   August 29, 2006 at 5:14PM
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I used super-D-weedone with banvil-D, full strength, and mixed in some diesel fuel. Dabbed it on with a sponge brush. Never saw it again. This was 40 years ago.

    Bookmark   September 17, 2006 at 5:54PM
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bindersbee(6a UT)

Time to bring this gem back to the top again. This thread must be as perennial as the nasty bindweed it's about. I have just come in to relax after spraying my denuded back yard with RoundUp. We removed all the lawn last year, properly graded the ground (which wasn't done when the original yard was put in) and installed a new, top-of-the-line irrigation system.

The lawn we pulled out was about 1/3 weeds and 2/3's grass. Dh wanted to get the new sod down as soon as possible but I'm not letting him. We are going to take our time and kill as much of the nasty weeds (bindweed and other nasties) as possible before we put in the sod. Today is the second application of RoundUp. The first one was 3 weeks ago and we got good kill on it- but twice as many weeds have since sprouted. The weather has been unseasonably warm thus far so the RoundUp has been effective.

My question is if anyone thinks it would be beneficial to use a different chemical next time? As a general rule, I don't use a lot of chemicals. However, if ever there is a time to be liberal with the usage of such things- it's right now when I have nothing in the yard that I need to worry about killing. I'm hoping to reduce the total amount of weed seed in the yard BEFORE we replant. Shall I go for a 3rd round of RoundUp in a couple weeks or try something else?

    Bookmark   April 1, 2007 at 2:50PM
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Skybird - z5, Denver, Colorado

Hi bindersbee,

If itÂs the seeds youÂre trying to get rid of, you need a preemergent. That will keep the seeds from germinating, so you wonÂt need to use the roundup to kill them once theyÂre growing. HereÂs a link to some pretty good info about preemergents. But keep in mind that they will prevent ALL seeds from germinating, so be sure you donÂt get it in an area where you may be planning to plant seedsÂon purpose. Chances are that all your regrading has brought a bunch of seeds to the surface that could go on germinating for a long time. My veggie garden gets a "wave" of seedlings coming up every spring after itÂs been turned over and raked. Unfortunately I canÂt use a preemergent in that area! :-(

If itÂs the established bindweed youÂre still trying to get rid ofÂcanÂt help you much with that! Seems to me the best (not that itÂs great) solution is to either just persist with the roundup or with the constant pullingÂwhich, from my experience, WILL eventually start to weaken them. But you need to deprive the roots of ANY foliage above ground which is how they keep going. One other thing! If you're digging in the soil and get into bindweed roots, you need to get ALL the roots out to get rid of it. ItÂs like the SorcererÂs broom in Fantasia! If you chop it up, youÂll just have that many more coming up when they recover!

Good luck,

Here is a link that might be useful: Preemergents

    Bookmark   April 1, 2007 at 3:54PM
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spyfferoni(z/5 UT)

I have bindweed, orchard grass, quack grass, and mallow like crazy! We will be starting over and putting in sod this year, and putting in wide row raised beds so I only have to deal with weeds and amending soil exactly where I am planting. I forgot to add we also have puncture vine.


    Bookmark   April 2, 2007 at 2:46PM
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highalttransplant(z 5 Western CO)

It's baaaack! That stuff grows incredibly fast too. Yesterday it was too windy to work in the yard, and today it was coming up all over the place. Wasn't showing at all the day before yesterday!

    Bookmark   April 3, 2007 at 3:58PM
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Has anyone tried using Preen? Does it work?

    Bookmark   June 30, 2007 at 11:55PM
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I've used Roundup to effectively eliminate and control my bindweed. I have also pulled small ones in the garden. The problem I have is the neighbors do nothing so have to catch it at the borders. Luckily I have 2 acres and have it controlled to the borders now. Jay

    Bookmark   July 2, 2007 at 7:27PM
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michelle_co(z5 CO)

I use the organic coffee and beer approach.

In the morning, drink coffee, pull bind weed.
In the evening, drink beer, pull bind weed.

The means justify the end. :-)


    Bookmark   July 2, 2007 at 8:56PM
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highalttransplant(z 5 Western CO)

LOL, Michelle! My approach is pretty much the same ... well, except the beer part : ) Just wondering if those of you that are pulling it out by hand, are you doing this with your bare hands, or gloves on? I have found that it breaks off without the roots when I pull it out wearing gloves. So now my fingers are permanently green, even under my nails turns green. Any tips on what gets rid of the stain? I've been using a dish scrubber, but even that doesn't get it all.

I really don't mind pulling weeds, it can be almost relaxing, though with bindweed there is never a sense of completion, since it grows faster than I can pull it out.

Oh, and Bindersbee, if you happen across this post again, just curious how the new lawn turned out. Were you able to get rid of all the bindweed? The landscaper that put our sod down, tilled it first, but that was before I knew that each little piece would sprout a new plant. I would have made him pull it or spray it if I had known. It is popping up everywhere this year, so I guess that it just made its way up through my pristine new sod. Surely that many seeds could not have landed and germinated since October?!

    Bookmark   July 3, 2007 at 12:17AM
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I used Roundup as well. I let a few grow out a ways and then submerged them in an old can with Roundup. When I opened a couple cans of green beans, I left the lid hanging on a little bit so that it was still attached. I but the bindweed in and then closed the lid down to prevent sprinklers/rain from filling the can and overflowing into the landscape. I read on another forum that the bindweed will soak in a bunch of roundup before it fully dies. According to another poster, this allows the poison to get down into the roots and eradicate large sections of the weed, as they are all connected by a vast root system. It seemed to work well for me. I have much less than I did a couple years ago. I still get some popping up here and there, but I just pull those out as they come up and try to keep up with it. It appeared to knock back the infestation significantly.

    Bookmark   July 3, 2007 at 1:01AM
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This thread reminds me of that kids' song. This is the thread that never ends. It just goes on and on my friends.

"Has anyone tried using Preen? Does it work?"

Since this was the question that resurfaced the thread and it hasn't been answered, I'll take a stab at it. Preen is a preemergent. It keeps seeds from germinating.

Although bindweed does produce seeds, most of the bindweed is coming up from roots, so Preen won't help with it.

As I understand it, the best ways to control bindweed are as follows (in no particular order).

  • bindweed mites (not available everywhere, and I think you have to have a healthy growing crop first)

  • 2,4-d will kill the top growth, but I don't think it kills the roots

  • glysophate applied full strength will kill it where it's applied, but will also kill anything else it hits

  • glysophate at reduced rate will slowly kill it, and also get drawn into the root system, especially if done in the fall

  • hand pulling keeps it at bay, and can slowly get rid of it if you weed daily and don't allow the leaves to get enough sun to feed the roots

    Bookmark   July 3, 2007 at 1:13AM
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aliceg8(CO 5)

Highalt, try the latex gloves that medical people use. You can get a box of them at a drugstore, like Walgreens. They're super thin and really allow you to get at the itty bitty weeds.

    Bookmark   July 24, 2007 at 3:19PM
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Ok...this may have been mentioned (i haven't read all the 80+ posts) but here is what i do and it seems to kill the bind weed the first time, but it is labor intensive. Collect newspapers plastic bags, rip a small hole in one corner, pull the bind weed into the bag...spray Round-Up inside the bag and seal the open end...i use twist ties.

I think this creates a hot house, causing the pores to open and suck down the Round-Up

    Bookmark   July 28, 2007 at 11:47PM
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Awesome Tips!

I made the BIG mistake several years ago of putting some soil from a flower bed into my Veggie gargen. Been paying the Bindweed "price" ever since.

Am a die hard woodworker. This past spring I was planning some Fir boards. I ended up with 4 garbage bags of shavings. Normally I put the shavings in compost bin.

This year I had enough to cover veggige garden in about 3". What I noticed is in only a couple places where the covering was thin is where I got bindweeds. The only effect I see on the vegetables is the Jalapenos where they are smaller than normal.

Also I noticed that the rabbits do not seem to like the pine smell.

No clue if anything scientific is behind this - but at least the garden smells good.

    Bookmark   August 5, 2007 at 7:41AM
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haleyb 4 (CO)

Live and learn: I, an enthusiastic new homeowner, began by tilling my newly acquired garden two summers ago (as a renter all my life, I had never even heard of bindweed), and deeply regret having done so. I am in Fort Collins, and will be trying the mite attack mentioned in numerous previous posts. I also recently heard from an old timer that Round Up isn't worth a crap; instead, she takes 2 small, clear disposable plastic cups, puts a small amount of chlorine bleach in the bottom of one, drapes a bindweed vine through the bleach in the cup, and pinches it in place with the second cup (stacking the empty one into the one with the bleach and bindweed vine). She admitted that it is a little homely--unless you like the looks of plastic cups in your garden--but that it WORKS. I guess the cups help keep the bleach out of your soil, and in constant contact with the weeds. She leaves the cups on for 24-36 hours....

I haven't tried it yet, but if the mites don't do any good this trick may be next.

    Bookmark   May 21, 2008 at 12:56AM
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bp - I thought I once heard something about roaches and bindweed being the only things that would survive a nuclear war.

When we lived in Simla, the yard was covered in bindweed. I solarized the area with sucess, at least for the first year. We moved after that. I have a patch, only one thankfully, that I plan to do the solarization thing again tomorrow. As I remember it, I soaked the area and then I left it under the clear plastic for about a month. I will let you know how it goes.


    Bookmark   May 22, 2008 at 12:56AM
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I bought a house, naively thinking "hey i can just pull all that stuff up and burn it". How wrong i was.

The garden is about 6m x 10m and i would say it is about 6 years of unchecked bindweed growth.

Last year i tried round-up and the plants died off, but to my dismay the roots are still strong as ever when i began digging it this February.

So... a new plan is underway.

I have decided to concentrate on a 6m x 3m section, just large enough but i can cope with the hardcore toil.

The roots are like a solid lattice, but they do not seem to go as deep as i have read.

I first dug it over EXTREMELY thoroughly, all roots thrown in the bin. I then left it for a few weeks - enough time for the little missed bits of root to start sprouting, and then i dug it again - taking every single teeny tiny scrap of shoot (new shoots are very white in colour and like bamboo sprouts in appearance).

During the digging i also dug a deep trench around the edge - placing a nice thick membrane around the area - to stop it from creeping in underground from next door.

I have now re-dug and planted rows of potatoes, because apparently these are good at fighting the weed.

The remainder of the garden is going to be dug over once, and then a membrane and gravel put over the top. I don't really want to do this, but i figure that the entire garden is too much for me to deal with, even to get it to a lawn.

So far the dug patch is looking really good, not a sign of a shoot, and i am sure that with a lot of focus and work over this year and a few after i should be able to defeat the g*t!

I will let you know how it goes!

    Bookmark   May 24, 2008 at 3:54AM
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Just started getting bindweed on my organic farm. The plants are flowering now. Wondering if I burn the flowers will that kill the seeds?

I don't want to use Roundup as I will no longer be able to call my farm an organic one.

Maybe I'll try the black plastic burn out technique. Anyone had luck with that?

    Bookmark   July 3, 2008 at 5:08PM
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david52 Zone 6

If you're just starting to get it, then pull, pull, and pull some more. What ever you do, don't let it go to seed. If you flag where the plants are, then you can mess them up quickly again when they start to re-sprout. You're continually weakening them, and at some point, they go away. I used to have big problems in my veggie garden, but now it really isn't much of a bother.

Now the rose beds, thats a whole other matter.

    Bookmark   July 3, 2008 at 6:20PM
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Even if you kill the seeds it spreads by the roots also. And everytime you cut a root and don't remove it from the soil it will just sprout where ever it is left. So is very hard to control. They have came out with a new chemical that they say really works but that would be of no use to you on an organic farm. Good luck. If you have a few plants I would keep them pulled but if many over a large area hard to do. JME. JD

    Bookmark   July 3, 2008 at 6:21PM
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highalttransplant(z 5 Western CO)

I pull handfuls out of the lawn on a daily basis. I'm getting so fast at it, I'm thinking of entering it as an Olympic sport : )

    Bookmark   July 3, 2008 at 7:28PM
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Skybird - z5, Denver, Colorado

Hi Nezi,

If youÂre really just starting to see them for the first time, the root system must be pretty small yet and I recommend taking a little trowel and digging down to get as much of the root as you can each time you go around and pull. The more root you can get with the top, the faster it will start to weaken and kill them. And as everyone is saying, pulling will eventually weaken and kill them, but you need to remove the foliage every time you start to see any growth at all above ground. If you wait even a week or two, itÂll help the roots revitalize and grow stronger again.

And as David said, absolutely, positively donÂt let them go to seed. They produce thousands of seeds! And I recommend learning to recognize the seedlings as soon as they have leaves too. If the soil is moist/wet, itÂs fairly easy to pull seedlings out and get the whole root out. Since seeds will always be blowing in, thatÂs probably the quickest, easiest way to prevent them--and it's what I do in my own yard.

Good luck,

    Bookmark   July 3, 2008 at 8:39PM
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jnfr(z5b CO)

I just took up some weed cloth that has been on a section of my garden for several years. The soil underneath is almost as hard as rock, but when I manage to dig it out - slowly, from the edges - I'm finding thick bunches of still-living bindweed roots throughout.

    Bookmark   July 4, 2008 at 7:53PM
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I'm having a rather encouraging experience controlling my infestation with vinegar sprayed out of a bottle sprayer. I started with regular vinegar and have switched now to pickling vinegar which has a higher concentration of acetic acid. I know of organic market gardeners who use a even stronger product they get at a commercial source.

Our Canadian Tire stores (read Home Depot) stock a version as well.

One spray on a sunny day and they're brown by sundown - yes they will come back, but I intend to keep at it until fall and then get diligent next spring and hopefully all the seeds will be gone soon. It's a fairly new infestation that has only flowered once.

Has anybody else tried vinegar or substitutes ?

    Bookmark   July 8, 2008 at 6:12PM
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Would love to hear more vinegar results!
I just seen on 'Gardening By the Yard' (love that guy) to put a paste of salt and vinegar on the cut ends of small tree shoots (that are too hard to dig out) and it would kill them and the roots. I was going to try this on my bindweed. I may even resort to a vegatation killer, I don't like the idea, but this stuff I have is very well established, I even have sprouts that are growing out of the side of my house!!

This is about 1/2 way up the side of the house where this one came out

This one popped out of the trim around my kitchen window!

The thought of how much of this stuff is growing up under the wood siding on the house is scarey! I'm waiting for it to come popping through the walls inside!
This weed is an EVIL one!


    Bookmark   July 10, 2008 at 1:29PM
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Still laughing about the "KILL THE BINDWEED ... KILL THE BINDWEED" song. Wagner would be so proud! I am going to try some of the suggestions here before I lose my mind. Man, I hate those morning glories. I thought I was on top of it this spring but they emerged in full force the past few weeks. I spent the afternoon pulling them. It's nice to know there are others battling this plant. And to think I sprinkled a packet of the seeds near my fence the first year I lived here envisioning how pretty the climbing vines would look ... yeah, right. I HATE IT! There, I feel better now. Happy plucking, poisoning, tilling, blocking, and repeating.

    Bookmark   July 25, 2008 at 7:20PM
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Crickey, I thought we had problems here in the UK ( well we do! ) but nowhere near as drastic as you guys Stateside seem to be experiencing. Having said that, this is the worst year I can recall for this pernicious little monster of a plant.

I came here following a link about using vinegar to tackle this problem, but that seems to have faded a long time ago and stronger measures seem to have been resorted to since then. Unfortunately we have access to a very limited arsenal of chemicals here in Europe.

I'm going to try injecting the stems of the weed ( which are just coming into flower now ) with vinegar. I'll keep you posted as to how it goes.

    Bookmark   July 11, 2009 at 11:58AM
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If people are having good results with vinegar, I'd be surprised. It's not that vinegar doesn't kill plants, but that it doesn't translocate into the roots, so it really only kills the top and it's the roots that make bindweed so tough to eradicate.

I think that it would be possible to eradicate it this way, just as it's possible to eradicate by pulling, but you have to kill it as soon as you see it and do that every time you see it. That way you eventually starve the roots, but it's a long process.

    Bookmark   July 11, 2009 at 1:20PM
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david52 Zone 6

I have a flower bed by the front door, and every time I go out, I pull handfuls of blooming bind weed. Three times a day. It's better for my gardening self-esteem if I think of it as picking bouquets to cheer up the trash bin.

    Bookmark   July 12, 2009 at 1:41PM
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Wellllllllllll I feel silly now. I've been letting the darn stuff grow all summer, enjoying how pretty it is. *sighs* After reading this thread, I went out and pulled it up for an hour. I think my infestation is too far gone for eradication...The best I can hope for is to keep it out of my garden. :(

    Bookmark   July 14, 2009 at 11:28AM
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I had quite an infestation this spring in my yard, and took care of it with Bayer All-In-One Weed & Crabgrass Killer. I know some people are against using herbicides, but it worked like a charm for me. It killed the bindweed, grass was left unharmed.

    Bookmark   July 14, 2009 at 12:51PM
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david52 Zone 6

msfuzz, I have that same approach to dandelions. Instead of weeds, I now think of them as little, miniature fairy suns, greeting each spring day the big sun up the sky, and then turning into puff balls for something-something-poetic.

And if you have found the inner beauty of bind weed, you may be way ahead of the rest of us.

    Bookmark   July 14, 2009 at 6:46PM
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Wow, vic, that's really scary. I think you should name your bindweed, Audrey III.

I've been using the "pull constantly" method, which gets rid of it, but seems to just displace the problem. Like it started in one bed, and by pulling it constantly I've gotten it out of there, so it pops up next door, and so on.

So has anyone tried the mites?

    Bookmark   July 16, 2009 at 3:07PM
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jaliranchr(z5 EC CO)

We've had some success with the mites, but you are looking for real results three or four years down the road by introducing them. It isn't going to have much effect at all in a summer or even two.

    Bookmark   July 16, 2009 at 4:07PM
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irisgirl(Z5 - CO)

Jali - how long did you have to wait to get the mites? We applied once before and nothing happened.

DH applied again today as we have become deeply involved w/ our NEW community garden. Which was just rototilled 4 weeks ago in prep for next spring - yada yada yada. Guess what's blooming??

Talk about getting the cart before the horse! So I guess we'll go with a chem - 2,4D or some such for now and hope to get the mites next spring. Make sense, folks? Yes?

    Bookmark   July 27, 2009 at 1:51AM
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It's now NINE years after this post was started, was wondering if there are any new treatments to control bindweed in lawns. The consensus is that Sept. - Oct. is a good window because the roots are preparing for winter and drawing in nutrients. We tried the mites, but they don't work very well because you have to keep mowing the lawn or risk the wrath of the HOA.

Am interested in solutions that don't involve pulling up the bindweed...

    Bookmark   August 18, 2009 at 7:37PM
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Using Roundup in the fall when the vine is weak is a good time and works well. Seeds can live up to 50 years, so get rid of any you see. Removing plant and roots about 6" deep should work, too, but that's a lot of work.

A few non-poisonous solutions:
-Full strength vinegar that you can make yourself with a few bottles of cheap wine OR you can purchase Surig Essig Essenz Concentrated Vinegar (available at GermanDeli.com) in a pinch.
-Boiled water OR pure lemon juice poured on plant (boiled water works well on fire ant nests).
-Crowding out the plants with other plants, such as oats or other tall grasses.
-Sawdust from black walnut trees (toxic to plants).

What won't work:
Smothering in plastic - especially in windy areas.
Tilling the soil - this just germinates dormant seeds and introduces more plants through cut roots and stems.

Hope these ideas help!

    Bookmark   March 15, 2010 at 8:35PM
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jnfr(z5b CO)

I go with resignation. That works for me so far.

    Bookmark   March 15, 2010 at 8:48PM
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david52 Zone 6

You have discovered the Zen of Rocky Mt. Gardening.

    Bookmark   March 16, 2010 at 10:58AM
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Oá¹ Maá¹Âi Padme Hëá¹Â

    Bookmark   March 16, 2010 at 12:42PM
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We have problems with it here in the Uk - when I was a student I moved into a house where the back garden was covered in the dreaded bindweed. I killed it with a ton of Round-up and when it died back, it revealed a bicycle, a wooden picnic table and a whole shed that we didn't know was there!!!
We have it in our current house, but have concreted between the slabs of our patio to keep it out and just pull any shoots that poke round the edges. It's in our lawn too, but last year we dug up as much of it possible and I'm hoping it won't come back there... Haven't noticed it yet, so here's hoping... :-)

    Bookmark   May 23, 2010 at 3:29PM
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I had a bunch where I was going to plant my garden, and I let my neighbor bring her goat in. It went right for the bindweed. My neighbor told me its her goat's favorite thing to eat. If the goat eats it before it goes to seed, nothing of the plant can regenerate from its manure.
It sure beats pulling it by hand.

    Bookmark   May 26, 2010 at 10:55AM
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If I could train Buttercup, my cocker spaniel, to pee on the weeds, I'd have the problem solved.

I've got purselane,
I've got spotted spurge,
I've got bindweed!
Who could ask for anything more? Who could ask for anything more!
Chickweed, pigweed, goathead clover, crab grass....

    Bookmark   June 14, 2010 at 4:32AM
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jnfr(z5b CO)

What, no thistle? It's not a Rocky Mountain yard without some kind of thistle!

    Bookmark   June 16, 2010 at 7:14PM
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For a single season chemical killing: Mix 2-4-d with your favorite foliar fertilizer. The weed sucks it down thinking its fertilizer. The stuff will brown out in about 2 to 3 days. Do not pull it up after application. It will dry up and blow away. I am an asthematic so I cant use this method. My lady did one year and almost killed the roses in the process.
I am looking to get the Bindweed mites next. Until then I have been pulling them up and rototilling twice a week with about 70 to 80% success.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2010 at 10:02AM
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I've stayed out of this so far, but since it came to the top again:
As a farmer I fought bindweed for years. Clean cultivated it for years with no killing it. Sprayed it many times too.
Then sprayed in THE FALL!!! I think it was banvel a mixture of 24D and some thing else. 100 percent kill. 24D will do it but you got to spray in the fall, like Sept. when it is making a late growth.
Goats and antelope love to eat it. But I think you are a little short on antelopes in Denver.
KennyP, retired NE Co farmer

    Bookmark   July 7, 2010 at 2:51PM
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"Until then I have been pulling them up and rototilling twice a week with about 70 to 80% success."

Rototilling it can actually make it worse because you're chopping all the roots into little pieces, each of which can sprout into a new plant.

    Bookmark   July 7, 2010 at 7:25PM
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treebarb Z5 Denver

The BH and I were out weed whacking last weekend (well, he was weed whacking, I was pointing out what plants not to whack) and he said, "What's that viney stuff with the white and pink flowers? It's kind of pretty."
I'm glad he likes it, 'cause we have plenty of it! I appreciate the tips on how to kill it in fall. I've been pulling it out of the flower and vegetable beds for years. I'm not going to eliminate 6 acres of it, though, so I'll try spraying it this fall around the house perimeter. I'll be sure to cover the plants I care about first!

    Bookmark   July 7, 2010 at 11:35PM
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david52 Zone 6

Clematis vines will blend very nicely with bind weed, and the juxtaposition of the larger flowers with the smaller, as they drape o'er the overgrown juniper bush in front off my house, is 'interesting'.

    Bookmark   July 8, 2010 at 11:42AM
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Just spent 2 hours reading 10 years of "our" bindweed saga. I FOUND MY PEEPS! Wish I had jumped in earlier. Ironically, a friend of mine had the gall to try and cheer me up 2 months ago with the Fantasia-Sorcerer's Broom / Morning Glory, 'Climb Every Clematis' viewpoint. HHMMM wonder if he posted above too? FIE on his bindweedless property.

It's been three years for me and BW. I KNOW this plant. Every time I hear the root snap after carefully digging 10" into the ground I say "Damn, It lives to see another day".

I am ready to go chemical. I was organic and still love my 135 sq/ft. veggie garden and compost, but this is all about terrorism now. This plant leeches off of others to survive. It's spineless and viral and serves little use in the food chain except to feed obscure mites from Texas.

I like the pin hole/jar/24D method for starters.
I'll wait until our block part is over before the visual devastation begins.
Too many questions from the neighbors.

Eternally bonded with you all,
Don't be scared about that.
I see myself in rehab one way or another!

    Bookmark   July 23, 2010 at 3:49AM
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jnfr(z5b CO)

Welcome to the Fellowship of the Bindweed!

    Bookmark   July 28, 2010 at 8:54PM
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Texas green thumb

My backyard was covered in bindweed and with a little time and patience I was able to regain control. I rid my property of bind weed within a short period of time with the use of spectracide weed killer. Follow the directions, don't water the morning you plan to spray. Make sure it will be a nice sunny day without rain or overcast. Make sure you give the weeds a good spray and whatever you do pull them. With watering, seeding, and fertilizing you need to create a thick lawn that will prevent the bindweed from coming back. Mowing will remove the dead bindweed vines. Of course don't cut your grass to short because it uses more water and burn in the hot sun. However you will need to keep a close eye on your fence line, sidewalk, edges of the house, and others areas where the soil has been disturbed. I hope this helps some of y'all in fighting bindweed. P.S. I tend to mix my spray a little stronger than recommended. ; )

    Bookmark   June 4, 2011 at 11:08AM
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gjcore(zone 5 Aurora Co)

The old bindweed thread LIVES! Since Wed, May 10, 00. Very cool!

    Bookmark   June 5, 2011 at 10:44PM
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gjcore - the thread lives on, just like the bindweed that started it!! LOL

    Bookmark   June 8, 2011 at 1:48PM
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I just found this thread after a week of persistently digging bindweed out of my raised flower bed. It started taking over last summer, but for a variety of reasons, I just wasn't up to dealing with it. I appreciate the tips! Hard to believe that this thread has been going on for 11 years, but it does seem appropriate.

I've just put a few of the plants in plastic bags (recycling newspaper bags), sprayed with Roundup and tied off the tops of the bags in hopes that will kill some of it. I'm trying to be very careful about which ones I spray so that I don't inadvertently kill my rose bushes. So far I've only sprayed the plants that I'm confident are growing in from outside the edges of the garden bed. It's been a lot of work - and I know it will continue to be for a while - but I'm hopeful of beating it back.

    Bookmark   June 10, 2011 at 4:47PM
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Hmmmm . . . feel like I've "bonded." 11 yrs of bindweed.

Yep, it seems to like growing on top of/through solid plastic covered with rock - what they did in the '80s, was it? Before we learned to use woven landscape material to allow water and air to the soil.

Wanted to write about HOAs since I manage some. You might be successful submitting a plan with your reasoning even if it will look bad for a while. Let them know you want to not mow, or have glass jars around the yard, or dig holes in places for a while, whatever your plan of attack is. If you say it's to cut down on or get rid of bindweed, they might be smart enough to okay your plan.

To capture what I noted reading this thread:

I might try fresh manure/straw layer (25/75% at 6 - 7 inches), goats, chlorine, deny them sunlight, set plastic containers over each to solarize them, add some mites, cover with tin cans, place shredded pine over them (Black Forest Slash/Mulch program), salt/vinegar, etc.

Maybe I'll try a bunch of these at once, each on different plants, and see how each works.

If I have to, I'll put strands of each in their own jar of water/chem to let them drink their fill for a while.

Then I'll get to building raised beds with woven landscape fabric underneath, clear out to and under the edges.

I'd sure like to hear more about long term success on pulling the things. Or maybe it's like yucca - for every foot of root you remove, you'll have a year with no yucca in that spot.

    Bookmark   June 13, 2011 at 12:36AM
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"I'd sure like to hear more about long term success on pulling the things.Or maybe it's like yucca - for every foot of root you remove, you'll have a year with no yucca in that spot."

Pulling it can get rid of it eventually, but you're not trying to pull up all the roots. That's a losing proposition because the roots go all over the place. Instead, you're just trying to keep the leaves away so it can't photosynthesize. One caveat on this approach is that since the roots can go so far, if the plants you're pulling have roots in your neighbors' yards, they'll stay alive unless your neighbors are also pulling them every day.

And you really have to weed every day and pull every bit of bindweed that you can see. If you let it get going a day or two, it gets a chance to feed the roots.

I've been saying that the best time to apply roundup is in the fall, but I've since read that it can be very effective when it first starts flowering.

One note on sticking plants in jars is that because of the extensive root system, if you stick a plant in a jar with weed killer, you may see dying bindweed far away. Even though they appear to be separate plants, they're really one plant with lots of shoots in different parts of the yard.

    Bookmark   June 13, 2011 at 10:24AM
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Well the good news is that it is not my fault that the bindweed is in my perennial bed almost in the middle of my 10 acre front yard. IT'S the neighbors fault, the county that is. I pulled it all out last weekend and fed it to the goats (easier that way believe it or not) and checked out the flowers and leaves really closely while I was at it. Then I took a drive (just around the block so 10 miles or so). That @#$#@ is in every bar ditch in the area. Don't know if I should be happy or depressed.

BTW if I get time, I will post the write up that I found at the County Extension office. It says something like some county's require eradication. Guess I'm not in one of those.


    Bookmark   June 16, 2011 at 11:28AM
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Its funny how the more you read about bindweed the more depressing it becomes. Most weeds are not dubbed "alien" or "evil" as a matter of course. But now that I have spent most of the spring trying to get rid of the bindweed that is invading our vegetable garden, borders and creeping in along our fence line - I get it!

I am trying out the roundup in cans scenario (although I am using baby food jars with a hole punched in the top to feed the vines in). Does anyone how how important it is to put a lot of the vine into the solution for soaking? I only have a few inches submerged right now (those jars are small!) How long do I leave it in there? When can I hope to see far away bindweed withering and dying?

Also, I get that rototilling is a terrible thing to do, but is it worthwhile to try to dig out as much root as possible? There are areas of the garden with so much kid traffic that I really can't leave any kind of jars of herbicide just lying around. I don't want to create a million plants but I notice the bugger seems to be steadily heading inward and I think it might be a good idea to fight the battle on the frontline, so to speak.

Bindweed - this means war!

    Bookmark   June 25, 2011 at 2:24AM
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jnfr(z5b CO)

Oh around here on the west side near Standley Lake there are huge fields of bindweed blooming as we speak. Even the prairie dogs don't eat it, so in a field with every other green thing scavenged, the bindweed blooms in a solid sheet. I've decided I just have to live with it. There is no way I'll ever be actually rid of the stuff.

Nice to see that the bindweed thread lives on :)

    Bookmark   June 26, 2011 at 3:03PM
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I agree, it's the most evil weed in existence. The neighbor sprays the weeds in the alley every year that i think the bindweed in roudup resistant now. Pulling it out after it rains seems to somewhat work, as does cutting of the leaves over and over, but theres always a few hiding that seem to escape.

On the plus side though... The rabbits LOVE the stuff around here. They love it so much that they never touch our garden. The only time they came and ate our plants was when we planted cauliflower.

At least we dont have bindweed AND rabbit problems.

    Bookmark   July 10, 2011 at 1:10AM
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I used to spray commercially some. I still use Round up to control it. The only chemical I'm aware of that is real effective against it is Banvel.It is what most of the farmers use in no till farming. I can show you fields that were covered with bindweed 5 years ago and not a sign now. It takes a license to buy it and I'm sure is for restricted use. Jay

    Bookmark   July 10, 2011 at 9:31AM
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mayberrygardener(z5a, Broomfield, CO)

I remember reading on one of these posts that someone had the bindweed gall mite. I would LOVE LOVE LOVE to get my hands on some of that, and would be willing to propagate the little buggers and even spread it to some open spaces around here, giving the mites the opportunity not only to thrive, but also give others a source to "go and get some!" when they become well-established. As of right now, it's so much worse in some areas than it was even five years ago, that the native grasses and other natives are being crowded out or eaten down, and the bindweed is taking over.
I will PAY for bindweed gall mites, if someone's got them! PLEASE CONTACT ME!

    Bookmark   July 10, 2011 at 4:06PM
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mayberrygardener - I googled the mite and Colorado State Extension has a write up on them and it says something about getting them and releasing them, but I do not see the source. If you figure it out, please let me know as it is spreading on my place and really getting under my skin. I even found some growing through weed barrier and 3 inches of pine bark mulch UUUUGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!

Here is a link that might be useful: CSU Extension Noxious Weeds Bindweed mite

    Bookmark   July 11, 2011 at 12:31PM
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Skybird - z5, Denver, Colorado

I don't have any idea if this would help with the bindweed gall mites, but the site David linked about the NoLo Bait for grasshoppers, is TOTALLY into biological control for "pests," and, while I can't find anything on their site about the mites, possibly if you emailed them, they could point you in the right direction for where to find them---or they might even become interested in providing them! You never know! Check out their "about" page!

But before spending too much time and money on the project, take note of the two last comments on the bottom of the Extension Service page Billie just posted! It sounds like they're best used in unirrigated areas, and while being a "treatment," they are definitely not a "cure!"

Pretty little white morning glories............


Here is a link that might be useful: Biocontrol Network

    Bookmark   July 11, 2011 at 4:01PM
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with pretty pink ruffles on the edges (where I come from)

& yes I saw that too, treatment, not cure. The only thing the extension office says will surely kill it is a "controlled" pesticide one needs a license to purchase and apply. Back to the goats... for control. Still wouldn't mind applying some mites to the bar ditches, maybe it would help slow the spreading, that is my goal anyway.


    Bookmark   July 12, 2011 at 1:32PM
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david52 Zone 6

I'm finding that having a thick mulch with grass clippings helps in the battle. The vines are easier to spot when they're little, and easier to deal with - either yanking them or spraying them.

But right by the front door, I have a big, thick bed of that reddish spreading sedum interlaced with bindweed. I pull up yards of the stuff every time I pass by.

    Bookmark   July 12, 2011 at 2:08PM
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Bill c CO

Its taking over arvada!!! 5 yrs now and there is rarely a yard without its nasty white flowers laying open facing the sun laughing at us. Drinking all the fresh water pouring over them in this very wet monsoon living life to the fullest. Someone will be rich when they can discover something that can get rid of them without using nukes ... of course if we did use nukes the only thing left would be roaches (thank god we don't have those too bad in CO) and bindweed.

    Bookmark   July 12, 2011 at 2:22PM
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kvenkat(5a Colo)

I didn't know what bindweed was until I googled it. Holy crap! There is a large area of open land near where I work where the stuff has gone completely bonkers. I feel bad for the neighborhood whose yards border it!

    Bookmark   July 13, 2011 at 12:18AM
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Laurel Buckley

oops just finished ripping bindweed out of garden and finding hundreds of roots adding them to "trash" pile that was dumped into compost pile in the backwoods/ I think I'm gonna be sorry! Wish I had read these posts beforehand. Wonder if fire would work.

    Bookmark   September 28, 2011 at 7:55PM
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gjcore(zone 5 Aurora Co)

Fire can be used on weeds. It is one of the ways that large commercial organic farmers use. Not sure if that would work in a garden setting. Seems that there should be something better than fire.

My method continues to be to let it grow for awhile then hitting with roundup and sometimes it just gets pulled. I did apply to the state for the bindweed mites about 18 months ago. They called back but I no longer wanted them because for the mites to be effective one needs to mow somewhat regularly and I have very little grass that needs mowing.

Probably not too much concern about adding it to the compost pile.

    Bookmark   September 28, 2011 at 9:03PM
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I farmed all my life and have killed bindweed.
It is easy ti kill if done right and impossible if done wrong.
Right Now or Sept, is the time to get it. With spray in the fall.
Do NOT till or disturb it, it must be growing to get a good kill. Some one said that they had ripped it up--that was the wrong thing to do, and probably stopped the spray from working.

    Bookmark   September 29, 2011 at 10:04AM
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It's back!!! It's the thread that never ends.

gjcore - I discovered that I have some bindweed that has the mites!! It appeared this summer. Now if we can figure out how to contaminate the rest. Wonder if that is where the mowing comes in?

colokid - sprays are great, unless you are trying to keep things organic, in which case they don't work. Since I seem to get respiratory problems when exposed to certain insecticides and herbicides, I limit my exposure by not spraying what I grow. Any suggestions without chemicals?


    Bookmark   September 29, 2011 at 11:31AM
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Billie, I feel for you. I respect your views. I bought a farm about 1950 that had bind weed on it. I tilled it every few weeks for 40 years and did every thing I could think of. It did no good except to spread it to about a 8o acres patch. In 1990 I sprayed it with landmaster in the fall. One application killed it all except a couple of little corners that I miss. It has never come back. Wild Antelope love to eat it so I assume goats would too. Can you find one of the goat people that rent out their goats?

    Bookmark   September 29, 2011 at 12:25PM
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This info from the University of California's IPM site might prove useful.

Here is a link that might be useful: Bindweed Control from UC IPM Online

    Bookmark   October 8, 2011 at 7:52PM
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jnfr(z5b CO)

I need to report that after 12 years or so of fighting the bindweed by my veggie beds out back, this year there was very little bindweed to be found. A few stray vines came up in the beds themselves, but while I had a lot of trouble with thistle in the paths, there was only a little bindweed. In earlier years, there was a lot.

And this was without chemicals, which I use sometimes in parts of the lawn, but prefer not to use around my veggie beds. Just pulling and hoeing for 12 years (that after tilling the whole area the first year, thus spreading the stuff all over the entire area - as reported way upthread).

I also think that going to soaker hoses in the beds helped, since I've noticed that bindweed thrives where it gets water, and not so much if kept totally dry (whereas dryness doesn't stop the thistle at all).

Another thing I've noticed: we have been in the process of turning our back yard over to buffalo grass for the past couple of years, doing a patch of the yard at a time (it's a big yard, and we tire fast :) ) The patch that we did first now has a nice thick growth of buffalo grass, and while we used some weed and feed the first year we put out plugs, we did not use any herbicide after that, and the bindweed has not returned in that patch of grass, nor has any other weed grown in there, though they are all over the rest of the yard.

I think the rhizomes of the buffalo grass grow so tightly once established that literally nothing can get through it. We have fallen in love with the stuff.

    Bookmark   October 25, 2011 at 7:11PM
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So, I moved to the beautiful state of Colorado and bought a lovely home couple years ago. The large yard with plenty of sun fulfilled my dreams of a vegetable garden. Raised beds were in by February last year, even before furnishing the house.

In March, our pointy-eared friend entered my life. Just some wayward weeds poking thru the raised beds, I thought. By June, I had positively identified the evil one, and my dreams had turned into one big BW-pulling nightmare. I'm ashamed to say that by August I simply gave up and had fond visions of napalming the backyard. I am now in the midst of completely re-doing my veg garden (separate thread about that) to improve my defenses. We'll see how that goes.

Seriously, they ought to warn newcomers about this...thing...that shall not be named.

P.S. A funny thing happened in September last year. My zucchini and cucumber plants caught a bad case of powdery mildew and eventually died a month later. (Since I was in a state of BW-induced funk, I couldn't even muster the energy to acknowledge the problem.) Anyway, I later saw that the mildew also infected the BW in a 10 foot radius and, I'm happy to report, soundly kicked its rear. (Does that qualify as an organic pesticide?)

P.P.S. The BW steadfastly refused to infect my onion bed. Zero. Zilch. Maybe I should just grow onions.

    Bookmark   March 20, 2012 at 6:43PM
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jnfr(z5b CO)

I had the experience for many years of powdery mildew coming in via the bindweed at the end of the season, and taking out my squashes. Talk about adding injury to insult! I am so sorry. I did get rid of the bindweed, at least 95% of it, but it took over a decade to do so.

Onions (and garlic and shallots) grow very easily here, for me at least. You may be on to something there.

    Bookmark   March 24, 2012 at 6:10PM
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highalttransplant(z 5 Western CO)

Think I'll close this hot topic thread out, by saying that the bindweed is already poking its head up here. Seems really early to me. Guess there IS a downside to an early spring ...

    Bookmark   March 24, 2012 at 6:46PM
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