Can someone ID this as Fusarium Wilt

mystere540June 5, 2009

I am growing 11 different varieties of heirlooms and I noticed the other day that some of my leaves were beginning to turn a beautiful lime green color at the top of my Black Krims. After two days and a large rain I have noticed that a few of the other plants look like they might be doing the same thing. Can someone please tell me what is causing this to happen? Will I still get any fruit from them this year? Is there anything I can do?

Image link:

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mystere540

Here is a link to better pictures of my garden on flicker. The last pictures in the set are the plants in question. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/23524638@N03/sets/72157618268462090/

Here is a link that might be useful: My garden album on flicker

    Bookmark   June 5, 2009 at 11:18AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jean001(z8aPortland, OR)

Definitely *not* Fusarium. Wrong kind of yellowing.

    Bookmark   June 6, 2009 at 8:34PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
petzold6596(8b southern NM)

Have you fertilized these yet?

    Bookmark   June 6, 2009 at 11:10PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mystere540

I put some Malorganite down about a month ago and it was great but it did cause a little burn. Maybe I should try some blood meal? These plants are all blossoming right now and most are at 4 to six feet. What organic fertilizer should I use at this stage. I do see some fruit coming on.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2009 at 8:17AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jean001(z8aPortland, OR)

You wrote "Malorganite [sic] down about a month ago and it was great but it did cause a little burn."

Really? Shouldn't occur if used according to directions.

    Bookmark   June 7, 2009 at 3:47PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
mystere540

The man that I asked at Southern States Farm supply said that I could just dress them on the top of the soil so I did. I used to much and it ate away at the stem.

    Bookmark   June 11, 2009 at 9:57AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jean001(z8aPortland, OR)

Okay, so that's one of the many live-and-learn lessons we all have in the garden.

In the future, sidedress your plants by placing the fertilizer of any kind about 6 to 8 inches away from the stem.

    Bookmark   June 11, 2009 at 2:20PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
organic_jeannie

Looks nothing like pictures of fusarium I've seen. Looks like really healthy plants, but maybe needs something in the way of nutrition. I love fish emulsion. It activates the realy vital bacterial activity that goes on in the soil (rhizosphere)really fast and is slightly acidic, which, as I'm sure you know, tomato plants really like.

Thanks for sharing your pics - your gardening looks so immaculate and your plants look beautiful! Usually when I've seen that look on leaves, yellowing or paleness starting at the stem end of a leaf, of many kinds of plants, it can be a pH problem, but at the same time don't overwater. You know, sometimes we can get too conscientious and make our plants environments a little too lush, like a rainforest - maybe that's it!

    Bookmark   June 15, 2009 at 7:36PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
organic_jeannie

Looking around this site, I stumbled upon a post titled HELP!!! Tomato Problem Solver 2. Seems somebody posted an entire book, seems to be a trouble shooting type of a book, it has a section called "Better Color Pictures of Mineral Deficiencies in Tomatoes" which looks just like one of your photos with the yellowing in stem end of leaf. ID's it as iron deficiency, helped by acidifying the pH (as in fish emulsion, or some other means - I've had good luck with 2Tb vinegar in gal H2O for speedy results) You might need to read up on iron Rx's for tomato - I use chelated iron for certain plants, (mandevilla, camelia, star jasmine, for ex's). I don't know off hand what to do for tomatoes, but it always helps to acidify (iron take-up is related to pH), at least while you are reading up, it's something you can do immediately. Maybe you don't explicitly need to add iron, maybe you just need to lower pH. Happy reading! Let me know what you find out..

    Bookmark   June 15, 2009 at 9:53PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
flgrower

This is a good reason for using organic fertilizers on tomatoes. Most of the available organics such as Epsoma's "tomato-tone", contains the most commonly deficient trace nutrients, including calcium and iron at a more naturally consistent and available rate.

Milorganite is ok for your trees and lawn and ornamentals but not so great for edible crops because milorganite(treated and dried sewage)has high amounts of the heavy metals not ideal for human consumption.

    Bookmark   June 21, 2009 at 11:31PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
flgrower

I wish I could edit previous posts but it appears that milorganite is no longer considered dangerous for vegetables? At any rate, I have had much less issue with tomatoes since switching to organic fertilizers. It's hard to keep up with the issues that have been hyped at one point or another.

    Bookmark   June 22, 2009 at 4:20AM
Sign Up to comment
More Discussions
Help Identifying Problem
I need help identifying what's happening with my tomato...
drhoads
Tomatoes - yellow leaves and one plant starting to become droopy
Hi guys, I'm a novice gardener in Queensland and have...
tommytomatoes
Tomato Leaf curl
I'm having problems with my Beefsteak tomatoes. The...
DoctorAche
Mysterious disappearing Tomatoes
I'm in Richmond, VA (23233, if that helps). I moved...
Lorahv
Help with my Tomato Plant
Hello, I need some help with my tomato plant. About...
arti_asharma
People viewed this after searching for:
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™