Anyone could tell me what is the cause of the dying of my Irwin mango new shoots? Could it be too much sun?
In that first photo to the left I see Thrips possibly. At least the kind of damage they do.
Thrip's thrive when you have hot dry air and lack of good air circulation. And if you stress a plant on low water maintenance,that adds to the problems. The cure? Move the plant where air can move around it freely. And hose the plant down when you water. And,water more often.
Mango's like a humusy potting soil heavy with sands. Too much peat is not needed. Never OVER pot a Mango in a mix that's peat heavy. Some people think if they plant their Mango in a large pot before the plant needs it , the plant will develop faster growth. Nope..you get anaerobic soil. In ground?- much air and ma earth cures all.
DON'T give up.Its not that bad Jalilu. It can even turn around by the next flush.
This post was edited by stanofh on Mon, Oct 21, 13 at 16:49
Thank you for your answer. I havenÃ¢ÂÂt noticed thrips on that plant. Sometimes I find scales or white spiders that I treat with a homemade black soap. Air movement is not a problem. Tangiers is a windy place and the yard is on an old sand dune facing the bay. A cherimoya tree lost one of the main branches last spring and another one the previous spring because of the easterly wind. :(
Could it be some kind of fungal disorder? In this case, could I apply Bordeaux mixture on young mango trees if they are not dormant?
Watering is done once a week. Maybe it should be done more often. This plant is grown in a potting soil/grit mix. I have no idea of the exact ratio, because I was away when it was repotted. A young Keitt mango tree spent the previous fall and winter in the exact same place in a slightly smaller pot (17 gal.) filled with potting soil only, and got a lot of rain without any damage. It is in the ground since March but hasn't grown at all.
Finally, is it still time to repot in smaller pots, or should I wait till next spring?
Here is a link that might be useful: Tangier's weather in November
Once a week Jalilu is not enough. In summer every other day in our Med climates (and full sun) is about right. Also- the more consistent the watering is in summer- the obvious difference will show.
Its October 22,and my in ground young Mango is flushing again. We've had a superior summer in the San Francisco bay area. Not nearly the amount of fog as in a "bad" summer. I'm sorry its ending in about a month.
My Valencia Pride top shoots are the same as this. It seems for some reasons the top shoots were stun and unable to give new grow (due to weather?), but now there are more lower shoots come out -- couple inches above the graft line -- and they are all super strong shoots with big 14" x 5" leaves. So why the top branches don't do well but it sent out super healthy lower branches?
I guess I still have to learn a lot about mango growing! Fortunately, I can count on guys like you.
Stan, according to your answer, I understand that I can still put the trees in smaller pots. With regard to my in ground Keitt tree, how would you explain the zero growth? On the contrary, my Ataulfo next to it has grown 1 ft since March.
Sapote, your VP seem to behave the same way as my Glenn and Irwin, Where in So. Cal do you live? Is it in a coastal area?
I'm in Burbank, Ca91501, 20+ miles from the coast. Here are more info: those trees that spent energy on flowers and one fruit have stun top shoots but strong graft-line shoots, and those did not have flowers have healthy vigorous top shoots.
A small Mango that fruits Jalilu can stop growing the whole summer. In ground,young ones need plenty of frequent watering. Never mind that large ones can get by on average water.
You also can try and break that dormancy Jalilu, with fertilizer. I find that's a good idea for Cycads- tropicals of all kinds in a Med climate. This time of year..low N formula. Next spring,a higher N,and maybe even a Azalea- Camelia fert with loads of Iron.
I even tried a premium priced boxed fertilizer with bat guano...and my Mango really had a nice flush of green after that. Costs more- but does more.
I removed all the pannicles when my young mango trees bloomed in spring, so that all the energy would be used for growth. Maybe this Keitt hasn't flushed this summer because of infrequent watering but again it does not make sense since this young tree gets the same amount of water (sprinkler watering) as the young Ataulfo. On the other hand my NDM had a nice flush this week. In just three days, the leaves grew by 4"! Maybe because of a recent seaweed mulching. It was the first time that I applied seaweed (to all my mango trees) but It will not be the last, because there's not much choice of natural complete fertilizers here: manure and that's it. I sprayed them monthly during summer with foliar fertilizer and I will do it again to break the Keitt tree dormancy just like you suggest it. It was raining today. Next low tide I will gather more seaweed and especially kelp to prepare a seaweed emulsion. Stan, Sapote, have you ever tried it with mango or lychees trees?
I was reading an L.A.Times story on growing Mangoes in the Coachella Valley. They mentioned that tree leaves will shrivel and burn at 118f temps. I'm not how sure your area gets in summer Jalilu,but I guess high dry heat can cause the leaves to shrivel even when watered.
Stan, the record high in Tangier is 108F and usually the hottest days temperatures rarely exceed 96F in a year. However these pots are next to white painted walls which reflect the sun heat. Since temperatures are cooler now, I will see this weekend if there is an improvement. Last Sunday I powdered the leaves with sulfur for treating the powdery mildew. I should have done it earlier in spring. I'm learning.... A Moroccan proverb says: "If a jackal manages to escape from a trap, he(she) will never get caught again."