No TOMATOES

GasnickAugust 3, 2012

I live in the Pacific NW, and I place already nice sized variety in the house for a month until mid-June when I hardened them off then planted.

I applied all the appropriate ammendments and covered them with red plastic as there were a number of rainy cool days. They are being watered by irrigation and hose fairly regularly.

The plants are very large and there are some floweres on some of them, but it is already Aug. and there are no tomatoes. I cannot understand what is wrong.

We have had difficult growing years before, but NEVER have I gotten no tomatoes.

Please advise,

thanks,

Laurie

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edweather(Zone 5a/b Central NY)

It's only about 7 weeks since you set them out. Sounds like you will get tomatoes. I know it's tough to be patient waiting for tomatoes.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2012 at 9:15AM
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sharonrossy

Hi, I'm not familiar with your growing season but it's possible you aren't fertilizing enough, especially if you've had lots of rain. What type of tomatoes do you have?

    Bookmark   August 3, 2012 at 7:09PM
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spinesurgeon

I planted one plant mid-June in Houston. First time grower. Also planted Celebrities. The Celebrities have produced a lot of great tomatoes. The Park's Whopper is 5 feet tall, real full and healthy, but not one tomato and no blooms. Does any one have any ideas about this? Thanks.

    Bookmark   August 3, 2012 at 7:22PM
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sharonrossy

Have you over fertilized or used a fertilizer too high in nitrogen? That will give you lots of leaves but no fruit?

    Bookmark   August 3, 2012 at 7:26PM
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oliveoyl3

I'm also in PNW and a bit puzzled by the lack of fruit set this year. Our short growing season makes tomato growing tricky. Though I have had ripe Early Girl & a half dozen Sunsugar as well as many ripening Oregon Spring there are fewer fruits out there as compared to past years. I also had fruit set on a large Roma plant during that 2 week spell of warm weather in May.

My methods haven't changed other than using the perforated red plastic mulch this year. I rarely have ripe fruits before mid-July, but usually plants are heavy with fruit by mid-August. I stop watering in early August to encourage the existing fruits to ripen. This year I'm not going to stop watering until I have more fruit set on plants.

The plants were slowly growing at first until we had summer weather after July 4th. Many of them have had at least 5 sets of blossoms, so I am assuming they weren't over-fertilized or watered just --- cool nights have prohibited fruit set.

I am hoping that our summer weather is going to get them producing more fruit and it will be a record harvest.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 12:40AM
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colokid(5)

I have no answer, bur it seems to be happening all over. The weather??. Here in NE Colorado I have the largest plants I have even had and very few flowers. Now just a tomato or two. I hope they will come on.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 10:27AM
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derfy(5 MI)

like wise but i live in Mi. Never in the 50 years that i have grown tomatoes have i seen a year like this. We have had weeks of 95 degree weather and no rain but i do irrigate regularly.

Yet no blossoms on the Romas, no fruit on the Early girl, a few green on the better boy, only the grapes are producing.

Something was missing this year as far as the necessary conditions to bring results

fred in Grand Rapids

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 10:41AM
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Masbustelo

It has only been something like 53 days since you planted your tomatoes. You haven't stated what variety's your growing. Very few will have ripe fruit in 50 days, and some take 100 days or more.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 3:25PM
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Masbustelo

Spinesurgeon Parks Whopper under perfect conditions is supposed to be 65 days, so if you planted mid June, your early. Also if its been hot where you are the plants might not set fruit until it cools down.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 3:35PM
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derfy(5 MI)

planted May 30.

Been growing tomatoes for 50 years of all types and varieties so i know standard ripening time

Early Girl, Roma, Grape, Better Boy, Campari
Same as last year minus any Herlooms which never seem to do well. Bumper crop last year.

Ripe fruit not the problem. No fruit period, no blossoms.. The Early girl healthy vegetation but no fruit. Roma same but with just a few blossoms. Campari stunted and curled leaves(no evidence of sucking insect)

As i stated above the mid west actually most of the U s is under drought conditions no rain for a month and 90+ days. I water on a regular bases. Fert with organic, low N
My customers at Home Depot tell me they're tomatoes are doing great so it can't be lack of cool nights or fruit set.

Just chalk it up to the mysteries of hortuculture

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 4:51PM
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derfy(5 MI)

just checked on line for blossom drop which also mentioned peppers, also a very sick crop this year

here's the answer for me

Temperature: Extreme�temperature�such as high daytime�temperatures (above�85�o F/29�
C), or high night time�temperatures (above�70�
F/21�C), or low�nighttime�temperatures (Below�55�F/13�C) tomato plants will drop�the�flowers. Tomatoes grow�
best if daytime�temperatures range�between 70�F/21�C and�85�
F/29�C. While�tomato�plants can tolerate�more�extreme�temperatures for short�periods, several days or nights with temps outside�the�ideal range�will cause�the�plant to abort fruit set�and�
focus on survival (Mills, 1988). Temperatures over�104� àF/40�C for only four hours can cause�the�flowers to abort. If the�night temps fall below�55�o�F or rise�above�75�o�
F or if the�day temps are�above�85o F, the�pollen becomes tacky and�non�viable.

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 5:07PM
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derfy(5 MI)

sorry about the bad copy job
thought i corrected it

    Bookmark   August 4, 2012 at 5:12PM
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emcd124(5)

I hate to say it, but my misery is loving this company. This is my first year gardening in our new home in Z5 northern indiana, and I was about to throw in the towel and curse my black thumb. I have these big huge plants with gorgeous strong stems, all over 6 ft (indet varieties) but the production is TERRIBLE. I've seen flowers on the Black from Tula and the Brandywine, but no fruit set ever. I have a few fruits on Green Zebra and on Roma, but they are on the lowest rungs of the plant, and set fruit before the high heat hit. Nothing since. So like 3 toms per plant on those.

Only my Stupice has a modest number of fruit setting on it.

I guess I may just have to ride this year out and try again next year!

    Bookmark   August 6, 2012 at 10:55AM
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derfy(5 MI)

it's especially the hot nights that killed the blossoms.

My old stand by Early Girl is barren of fruit

One thing that will cause strong stems and lots of green and little fruit is fertilizing with a high Nitrogen fert.

They like high phosphorous plus Calcium to prevent blossom end rot

Tomatoetone is a good one

    Bookmark   August 6, 2012 at 6:27PM
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ediej1209(5 N Central OH)

OK, so I must live in a weird micro-climate (north central Ohio). My tomato plants themselves are kind of stunted, the tallest is maybe 4', but they are absolutely covered in tomatoes - Mortgage Lifters, Oxhearts, Big Rainbow, Big Zebra and several cherry varieties. I guess I'll quit whining about lack of height now!!

Edie

    Bookmark   August 6, 2012 at 6:56PM
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mariev_seattle(PNW Z8 Sunset Z5)

Pollination rates have been unusually low here in the PNW for at least the last two years, probably because of our unusually cool spring and summer. You can help fruit set by shaking your plants to improve pollination. You can either shake the tomato cage or the stake or lightly tap the trusses with open flowers. I live in Seattle, and I transplanted my plants in early June under hoop houses. I kept them covered until early July, and when they had flowers, I would shake the plants to improve pollination. Based on my count today on 25 plants, I have just over 600 fruit, about half cherry tomatoes and the other half larger black and beefsteak tomatoes.

Because of the cooler weather in the PNW, tomatoes usually take much longer to grow and ripen even if they're grown under hoop houses for the first few weeks. For example, last year Sungold took about 70 days to break, and larger tomatoes like Cherokee Purple and Black Krim took about 90 days. This year my Sungold took 37 days to set fruit compared to 31 days last year, so it's was about a week longer than last year. The larger tomatoes took 40-50 days to set fruit, about the same as last year. Given our cooler weather, I've only been watering about every 2-3 weeks and fertilizing once a month with Dr. Earth or Organobloom, but that's also because my planting mix is pretty rich and retains moisture.

    Bookmark   August 8, 2012 at 4:17AM
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capoman(5a)

Yes, I am willing to bet it's weather issues. If it was nutrient issues, you'd know it, and would be talking about the condition of the leaves, not fruit set issues. Plants will grow a lot of foliage if they don't have fruit set, the reason some are saying they have large plants without fruit. This is normal for most plants in that energy normally put into fruit go into leaves. Like the person in Ohio, I am having a bumper year like I've never seen before. It's all in the weather.

    Bookmark   August 9, 2012 at 3:57PM
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