3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
I can only recall what Steve W, formerly of FL and recently, if not currently, serving in Iraq posted years ago and that is that he cut back, dug, divided if wanted and let them 'rest' for about 6 weeks before replanting in your warm climate. Mulched, amended the sandy soil, and watered like crazy in your high heat. I have no idea when he did the digging. Perhaps you can search for other threads on growing in Florida by him or in general.
Thanks Steve W, for your service, for probably trying to grow dahlias in Baghdad, and possibly succeeding.
Here is a link that might be useful: Link on Growing in FL
Hallo Dianne
I used Picasa 3. You can download it for free:
http://picasa.google.com/
Good luck
Jesper
I store all of mine in a refrigerator. I have a fridge in the basement that is only for dahlias and I love it. I put them in ziplock bags with holes punched in them and cover the tubers with vermiculite. Then I just fill the fridge, one layer on each shelf. Every once in a while a little mold shows up but I don't lose many. I like it because they don't start growing until I am ready for them to.
No - It is better to store the tubers proberly, before it really gets cold. I clean mine and make sure they are dry before I put them in trays with coarse saw dust, in a unheated room in the basement.
But I do understand you want to pretend that summers last forever in Iowa - but reality check - soon you are goiing to be snowblowing your driveway again ...
You can however extend the season by starting the tubers indoor about 4-5 weeks before the last frost in your area and plant them out - this way you will have Dahlias blooming longer.
That sounds great. Thanks Ryan!!! I will contact you in the spring then. Just out of curiosity, what state are you in? We have really early springs as a general rule here in the south but I know that's not the case for everyone.
Thanks,
Dianne
Brrrr for you, Sherwood. I doubt a couple nights of freezing temps would get down deep enough to destroy the tubers. If they feel firm and skins are intact, they should be good.
Spring division is an option and easier to see eyes poking out. If you plant the whole clump you'll have many stalks, a bushier plant that is more difficult to support but with more flowers and tubers that keep right on reproducing underground making division even tougher as each year passes. Over time the flowers become weaker and fewer. It's really not that hard to divide every year or two. After that, it gets more challenging as the clump grows and tightens.
You can see examples of 1,2, and 5 yr clumps at the link below. Also photos identifying eyes and approximations on where to divide into single tubers. Practice, practice, practice makes it easy in no time at all.
Here is a link that might be useful: Dividing dahlia photos showing eyes/cuts
Thanks for the tip. That's what I'd figured. Looking at them there is no sign of weeping or bruising like you'd get from a frozen potatoe. They are drying a bit now. Tuesday I'll pick up some sulfur fungicide and store them up.
I ended up with a bumper crop. 3 milk crates of good sized tubers from a single packet of seed.
Where are you in Michigan? It seems a little early to be digging up the tubers . I am in mid-Michigan and my dahlias just got their first freeze last night. I am also confused regarding the mother tube. Below is a link from this site with pictures showing in great detail how to divide tubers.
Here is a link that might be useful: dahlia
Thanks Poochella. That's good enough for me. We have pretty mild weather here on Vancouver island and there is good drainage so I think I will take a chance....I know some varieties are not as hardy as others...but I only have one of each anyways....OK, I know, I can pretty-well convince myself of anything...I don't really mind the digging etc., but I think it was the disappointment in the spring that did me in(all those mushy tubers...with shiny metal name tags)I'll have to keep my fingers crossed!
Now if I could figure out what to do with those darn spider mites? Do they affect the tubers if the plant is infected so late in the season and not really showing any serious signs of destruction?
I've only had spider mites on a perennial, not a dahlia. See the article below for an exhaustive review of chemical mite combat. It mentions ripping out the entire plant but never specifies the tubers. My thinking is that they do not affect the tubers as they feed and reproduce their evil little selves on the leaf surfaces alone. But it also mentions a soil drench and overwintering females, so who knows.
Perhaps if you leave your tubers in the ground successfully, be on red alert for the first sign of mites next year and take corrective action to control them early.
Good luck. I'll cross my fingers for a mild winter for you while digging and dividing in the cold, wet slop we call early winter here.
Here is a link that might be useful: An article on spider mites.
Did it just happen this fall, as the light and temperatures began to wain? I find that happens every year with a lot of mine. I just figure that is the way they are and enjoy them until that happens. Next year they start off the bloom season just fine. Think of them more like Exotic daisies and they are still pretty.
Your dahlia "wilting" when the sky in clear and sunny makes me think your dahlia might need some water. This would be particularly true if you are growing the dahlia in a pot, particularly a clay pot. If you are growing your dahlia in a pot, try transplanting it to a larger pot, and try not to disturb the root ball. Then water it well, particularly in the late afternoon, but keep the water off of the leaves.
Good Luck!!!!!
Henry, aphids can carry a virus that will result in stunted plants and curled leaves you may want to check along that avenue. yellowing leaves and stems can result from many different things too much water, too little fertilizer, poor soil conditions. but if they were my dalhias i would investigate the aphids/virus relationship. hope that will help
sjmarshes, the correct spelling of that dahlia is narcissus. mctavish, you have hit on a tough topic. That floor was here and they had that high shine on it that you see. It is realy tile and is soft. The name of the stuff they sealed it with isMexican Saltillo Seal from Mediterranean Exports, Inc. This was put on 20 years ago and just started to peal. I am now in the process of taking it off with a razor blade! Can't find anything else to do it. I want to find something with less of sa shine but I may give up and put this back on abd try to make it look decent.
Thank you for looking up the name of the dark cactus and also for the name of my mystery orange. I appreciate it.
I have that Mexican tile as a surround for my wood stove. You are probably removing the finish the best way because this tile is so porous.
Neather do I. Just thought you might be a woodworker like me. All though I don't turn pens. I make pen boxes though. It looks like frost for me tonight.
I really don't worry any longer about water in the stems. However, back when I fretted over making little foil caps or cutting at the nodes or pushing a screw drive down through the whole clump, I piked up a neat trick on another group from Buddy Dean at Hilltop Dahlias in North Carolina. His technique was to fill the open stem with the foam insulation that comes in an aerosol container.