3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias

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busy-girl

Thanks Poochella. That's good enough for me. We have pretty mild weather here on Vancouver island and there is good drainage so I think I will take a chance....I know some varieties are not as hardy as others...but I only have one of each anyways....OK, I know, I can pretty-well convince myself of anything...I don't really mind the digging etc., but I think it was the disappointment in the spring that did me in(all those mushy tubers...with shiny metal name tags)I'll have to keep my fingers crossed!
Now if I could figure out what to do with those darn spider mites? Do they affect the tubers if the plant is infected so late in the season and not really showing any serious signs of destruction?

    Bookmark     October 10, 2009 at 9:57PM
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Poochella(7 WA)

I've only had spider mites on a perennial, not a dahlia. See the article below for an exhaustive review of chemical mite combat. It mentions ripping out the entire plant but never specifies the tubers. My thinking is that they do not affect the tubers as they feed and reproduce their evil little selves on the leaf surfaces alone. But it also mentions a soil drench and overwintering females, so who knows.

Perhaps if you leave your tubers in the ground successfully, be on red alert for the first sign of mites next year and take corrective action to control them early.
Good luck. I'll cross my fingers for a mild winter for you while digging and dividing in the cold, wet slop we call early winter here.

Here is a link that might be useful: An article on spider mites.

    Bookmark     October 10, 2009 at 11:07PM
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Noni Morrison

Did it just happen this fall, as the light and temperatures began to wain? I find that happens every year with a lot of mine. I just figure that is the way they are and enjoy them until that happens. Next year they start off the bloom season just fine. Think of them more like Exotic daisies and they are still pretty.

    Bookmark     October 7, 2009 at 12:27PM
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jroot(5A Ont. Canada (near Guelph))

PDshop, when you use the macro, be sure that it is set to the farthest distance (zoom out). If you try to zoom in, it will likely be blurry.

Linht, beautiful dahlias. Thanks for sharing.

    Bookmark     September 24, 2009 at 9:10AM
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corgicorner(Mass 6/7)

Your dahlia "wilting" when the sky in clear and sunny makes me think your dahlia might need some water. This would be particularly true if you are growing the dahlia in a pot, particularly a clay pot. If you are growing your dahlia in a pot, try transplanting it to a larger pot, and try not to disturb the root ball. Then water it well, particularly in the late afternoon, but keep the water off of the leaves.
Good Luck!!!!!

    Bookmark     October 6, 2009 at 9:34PM
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hvander(5B ON)

I did some research and I think a virus is present. Not sure though. Henry

    Bookmark     September 22, 2009 at 5:31PM
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jerpine

Henry, aphids can carry a virus that will result in stunted plants and curled leaves you may want to check along that avenue. yellowing leaves and stems can result from many different things too much water, too little fertilizer, poor soil conditions. but if they were my dalhias i would investigate the aphids/virus relationship. hope that will help

    Bookmark     October 6, 2009 at 4:27PM
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dahlias galorebirdbath, arrangements and dahlias. Sept. 30
Posted by pdshop(5) September 30, 2009
10 Comments
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pdshop(5)

sjmarshes, the correct spelling of that dahlia is narcissus. mctavish, you have hit on a tough topic. That floor was here and they had that high shine on it that you see. It is realy tile and is soft. The name of the stuff they sealed it with isMexican Saltillo Seal from Mediterranean Exports, Inc. This was put on 20 years ago and just started to peal. I am now in the process of taking it off with a razor blade! Can't find anything else to do it. I want to find something with less of sa shine but I may give up and put this back on abd try to make it look decent.

    Bookmark     October 2, 2009 at 5:11PM
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sjmarshes

Thank you for looking up the name of the dark cactus and also for the name of my mystery orange. I appreciate it.
I have that Mexican tile as a surround for my wood stove. You are probably removing the finish the best way because this tile is so porous.

    Bookmark     October 3, 2009 at 7:34PM
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pdshop(5)

There are so many orange dahlias, I would have to guess Mrs. Eileen.

    Bookmark     September 30, 2009 at 5:58PM
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vikingcraftsman

Yes Aunt Penny is a cat. She took over and nursed Oriens babies who became to sick to take care of her babies. So Aunt Penny had 7 babies to take care of.

    Bookmark     September 21, 2009 at 1:47PM
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Poochella(7 WA)

Go Aunt Penny, for raising the orphans! Any self-respecting cat would be curled up basking in the sun on top of your nice bench in a New York minute. Must have been feeding time?

I really miss having outdoor cats in the gardens. They're all stuck indoors for survival nowdays and only occasionally get to charge an invading squirrel or bird on the deck, only to be thwarted from their prey by that darn glass door.

    Bookmark     September 28, 2009 at 12:35AM
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jroot(5A Ont. Canada (near Guelph))

I've never tried it. I might consider experimenting with some that I wasn't too much in love with, just for the experiment. With my good ones, I will store them the way I've suggested before because I know it works. .... and is a LOT lighter to carry to the cold cellar.

    Bookmark     September 23, 2009 at 6:14PM
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Poochella(7 WA)

I've not stored in sand either. Weight would be the big factor and inability to easily sift through and check tubers during the winter. Cedar shavings, vermiculite, or Saran Wrap are what I'm sticking with for storage.

    Bookmark     September 28, 2009 at 12:26AM
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pdshop(5)

You are right on the Lirio. Isn't it great and it lasts forever cut. The red in the middle is Drummer Boy. The best red I have ever had. Big also. The two others, I can't tell as everything has a red cast from my not knowing how to select the correct settings on the camera. I think that I have so many of the same color that it is one big color.

    Bookmark     September 23, 2009 at 5:23PM
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Poochella(7 WA)

This is fall color at its best in the dahlia garden. Nice going PD.

    Bookmark     September 28, 2009 at 12:22AM
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Poochella(7 WA)

Lollipop? Height and any foliage peculiarities are other hints that would be helpful in an attempt to ID.

Pazazz? http://www.dahlias.com/pazazz-item296.aspx

Do you know where you might have obtained it in the first place?

Here is a link that might be useful: Lollipop

    Bookmark     September 27, 2009 at 8:59PM
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jroot(5A Ont. Canada (near Guelph))

There are several ways to store them. Below is a link how I do mine, and others have added their comments as well. Good reading for you. :)

Here is a link that might be useful: Storing Dahlia tubers

    Bookmark     September 27, 2009 at 5:57PM
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bookjunky4life(5 Central IL)

The seeds are just amongst the dried petals, correct?

At what point can I pick the seed heads? Just when they're browning?

BTW, looked at the package this morning and they are Unwin Dahlias.

    Bookmark     September 23, 2009 at 9:15AM
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teddahlia

Unwins dahlias are dahlias that were developed many years ago to be grown from seeds. There are a couple of other types including the coltness series. They do make seeds and if you like what you grew this year, your seedlings will look about the same, assuming you grew no other dahlias nearby. Seeds form in small pods after the petals fall off the flower. It takes about two weeks for them to ripen after the florets fall off. These varieties do make some small tubers that can be dug and stored also. Having said all of that, these bedding varieties are quite inferior to modern dahlias. If you want bedding dahlias, look in the nurseries for small bedding types grown from cuttings. Two of the series include Karma and Gallery, both developed in Holland. There are also new dark foliage types from New Zealand that are quite nice. You will 10 times more satisfied with these bedding dahlias than any you can grow from seeds.

    Bookmark     September 26, 2009 at 1:34PM
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corgicorner(Mass 6/7)

You might want to consider taking cuttings from the main stem--there have to be cuttings because you said it was a wide plant. I would remove all but3 or 4 of the topmost leaves--do not leave any big leaves. If big leaves are the only leaves available, cut (with scissors) at least half of the leave off--you want to leave only enough for the plant to survive, and hopefully grow roots. I would take at least 3 cuttings and do as above, and try rooting them in water.
I would also take 3 or 4 more cuttings and try to root them in a "soil". Do NOT use your regular garden soil--it is wonderful in the garden, but is not for potted plants. I would make a mixture of 4 parts sifted garden soil, 4 parts of a peat/perlite mix like sunshine brand, 1 part each of Vermiculite, perlite,and sand(I use pool sand, brown because it is cheaper than the white--I suggest you see if your source has any broken bags, and if so offen them half their regular price. Be sure to take a container with you.)

OR
You can make a soilless mix of equal parts of perlite, vermiculite, milled sphagnum moss, and 1/2 part sand. If you have it use 1 part of the contents of a Britta Filter.(It is charcoal, and an excellent addition to the above.)
You may think I am trying to overload you, but if you would sterilize the first suggestion--before the OR,-- after you have it mixed by placing the mixed contents in a container you can place in a microwave, dampen it, and set it on high for up to 5 minutes or until your meat or candy thermometer reaches 185 degrees (NEVER PLACE THE THERMOMETER IN THE MICROWAVE!!!!!)you will increase you chances of success 100% ! Yes, I know, it takes time, but you sound as though you really like this dahlia.
Place the cooled mixture in the container you are going to use to root the cuttings. It would be best if you would "Tent" the container with some kind of plastic to keep the humidity high, but don't let the leaves touch the plastic or you will lose them, and create a potential mold situation. I will gladly answer any questions you may have. Write me at the "address" above. Also, Kindly put the word "GardenWebber" in the subject area to keep your e-mail to me out of my junk pile. My filters are set high because of spam. If I get your message I will respond.
GOOD LUCK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

    Bookmark     September 23, 2009 at 10:17PM
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corgicorner(Mass 6/7)

Corgicorner here again. I forgot to suggest that you apply a rooting medium to the stem ends before inserting into either the "soil" or "soilless" planting mediums.

    Bookmark     September 23, 2009 at 10:26PM
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jroot(5A Ont. Canada (near Guelph))

Lin,

I often bring mine in before the frost. It really doesn't matter whether you water or not, because you will be cleaning them off, dusting them with a fungicide / bulb dust, letting them dry on the surface, and then storing them in a way that you like.

I have some with powdery mildew this fall also. That will all be cut off and discarded.

Hope that helps.

John

    Bookmark     September 23, 2009 at 6:17PM
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plantlady2008

We've tried a lot of things to try to get a bloom to open for a show- even resorted to putting a heat lamp on one for a few days once! To no avail. The only time a dahlia rushes is when you don't want it to & goes to center on the way to the show - evil little beasties!

    Bookmark     September 22, 2009 at 11:19PM
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