3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
Go Aunt Penny, for raising the orphans! Any self-respecting cat would be curled up basking in the sun on top of your nice bench in a New York minute. Must have been feeding time?
I really miss having outdoor cats in the gardens. They're all stuck indoors for survival nowdays and only occasionally get to charge an invading squirrel or bird on the deck, only to be thwarted from their prey by that darn glass door.
I've never tried it. I might consider experimenting with some that I wasn't too much in love with, just for the experiment. With my good ones, I will store them the way I've suggested before because I know it works. .... and is a LOT lighter to carry to the cold cellar.
You are right on the Lirio. Isn't it great and it lasts forever cut. The red in the middle is Drummer Boy. The best red I have ever had. Big also. The two others, I can't tell as everything has a red cast from my not knowing how to select the correct settings on the camera. I think that I have so many of the same color that it is one big color.
Lollipop? Height and any foliage peculiarities are other hints that would be helpful in an attempt to ID.
Pazazz? http://www.dahlias.com/pazazz-item296.aspx
Do you know where you might have obtained it in the first place?
Here is a link that might be useful: Lollipop
There are several ways to store them. Below is a link how I do mine, and others have added their comments as well. Good reading for you. :)
Here is a link that might be useful: Storing Dahlia tubers
Unwins dahlias are dahlias that were developed many years ago to be grown from seeds. There are a couple of other types including the coltness series. They do make seeds and if you like what you grew this year, your seedlings will look about the same, assuming you grew no other dahlias nearby. Seeds form in small pods after the petals fall off the flower. It takes about two weeks for them to ripen after the florets fall off. These varieties do make some small tubers that can be dug and stored also. Having said all of that, these bedding varieties are quite inferior to modern dahlias. If you want bedding dahlias, look in the nurseries for small bedding types grown from cuttings. Two of the series include Karma and Gallery, both developed in Holland. There are also new dark foliage types from New Zealand that are quite nice. You will 10 times more satisfied with these bedding dahlias than any you can grow from seeds.
You might want to consider taking cuttings from the main stem--there have to be cuttings because you said it was a wide plant. I would remove all but3 or 4 of the topmost leaves--do not leave any big leaves. If big leaves are the only leaves available, cut (with scissors) at least half of the leave off--you want to leave only enough for the plant to survive, and hopefully grow roots. I would take at least 3 cuttings and do as above, and try rooting them in water.
I would also take 3 or 4 more cuttings and try to root them in a "soil". Do NOT use your regular garden soil--it is wonderful in the garden, but is not for potted plants. I would make a mixture of 4 parts sifted garden soil, 4 parts of a peat/perlite mix like sunshine brand, 1 part each of Vermiculite, perlite,and sand(I use pool sand, brown because it is cheaper than the white--I suggest you see if your source has any broken bags, and if so offen them half their regular price. Be sure to take a container with you.)
OR
You can make a soilless mix of equal parts of perlite, vermiculite, milled sphagnum moss, and 1/2 part sand. If you have it use 1 part of the contents of a Britta Filter.(It is charcoal, and an excellent addition to the above.)
You may think I am trying to overload you, but if you would sterilize the first suggestion--before the OR,-- after you have it mixed by placing the mixed contents in a container you can place in a microwave, dampen it, and set it on high for up to 5 minutes or until your meat or candy thermometer reaches 185 degrees (NEVER PLACE THE THERMOMETER IN THE MICROWAVE!!!!!)you will increase you chances of success 100% ! Yes, I know, it takes time, but you sound as though you really like this dahlia.
Place the cooled mixture in the container you are going to use to root the cuttings. It would be best if you would "Tent" the container with some kind of plastic to keep the humidity high, but don't let the leaves touch the plastic or you will lose them, and create a potential mold situation. I will gladly answer any questions you may have. Write me at the "address" above. Also, Kindly put the word "GardenWebber" in the subject area to keep your e-mail to me out of my junk pile. My filters are set high because of spam. If I get your message I will respond.
GOOD LUCK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lin,
I often bring mine in before the frost. It really doesn't matter whether you water or not, because you will be cleaning them off, dusting them with a fungicide / bulb dust, letting them dry on the surface, and then storing them in a way that you like.
I have some with powdery mildew this fall also. That will all be cut off and discarded.
Hope that helps.
John
We've tried a lot of things to try to get a bloom to open for a show- even resorted to putting a heat lamp on one for a few days once! To no avail. The only time a dahlia rushes is when you don't want it to & goes to center on the way to the show - evil little beasties!
We live as far north as you can be in Utah and I guess you could say we live in the mountains. They are all around us anyway. We lucked out and the frost missed us. Others in our area were not so lucky though. So maybe we can enjoy another week or two.
Sheryl,
FWIW, I too am in Ontario in Lindsay. I generally dig mine up late October or early November. I let the frost hard kill the plant before I dig it up, unless there's a forecast for many inches of snow. If the flowers aren't getting mushy, why cut them down?
Cheers,
Russ
There are so many orange dahlias, I would have to guess Mrs. Eileen.