3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias

See now I would say it isn't a dahlia. All of my dahlias that have gotten to that size have 3 leaves on a branch, whereas this one looks like it only has one leaf per branch.
But those who have spoken before me have more experience, so like Melaroma, I'd sure like to know if it turns out to be a dahlia.
Cheers,
Russ


I am so jealous and nervous about what I am doing. I have way to many dahlias. Some of the tubers have eyed up and I shouold put them in pots until they are ready to go into the ground. The others are in litterboxes on top of peat. Should I keep that moist? I put them out in the sun every day.

The question really is whether you think you'll get a hard frost (e.g. the moisture in the soil actually freezes to any extent) or not.
The tubers will survive in the soil with cool temperatures, just not frost. Remember, they are shallow root plants so you only need to freeze a couple of inches of soil and you'll kill or damage the roots. It would take several weeks of ground frost to kill the tuber (think about what happens at the end of the season.)
I too am in Zone 5, and am on the side of a lake (which usually means our temperatures are slightly higher than others) but you are more daring than I. But my reason is that most of mine are 8" tall already and I don't want to have to bother with coverings for frost warnings.
Most of my tubers took 15 days to go from nothing to a cuttable sprout. Were they in the ground, that sprout would have had a couple of sets of leaves above the ground and would have been highly susceptible to frost.
The up-side of your plan, however, is that even if the above-ground part gets frosted, a root system should get established as well, so a new sprout should come up quickly.
Good luck, and let us know how it works out for you.
Cheers,
Russ

I plant my dahlias in pots all the time, I use a good potting soil mix (moisture control MiracleGro) and add extra compost, peat moss and lava sand (for good drainage)...I fill my pots at planting time too. I stake at planting time. I get good results this way. Oh also each spring I add about a 2 inch layer of compost to each pot...so far so good!

FWIW, all of my Dahlias are planted in 4" pots. I plant both tubers and cuttings in the plastic 4" pots from a popular online store (Lee Val...) I use moisture control MriacleGro also.
Tubers are planted pointy end down, crown up, with ~50% of the tuber sticking out the top of the pot. Larger tubers have more sticking out the top of the pot.
Cuttings are planted the same was as they are taken.
All pots sit in trays which hold 24 x 4" pots. I give the tray ~1" of water a week, and all trays are under T5 lighting.
When I plant them in the ground, I will plant them in the 4" container. The depth will vary according to whether its a tuber or cutting. Cuttings will be put so the top of the pot is ~2"-4" below the surface. Tubers will be planted so the top of the crown is ~2"-4" below the surface.
When I dug mine up last year (planted this way) most of the pots were intact and the tuber clump completely contained inside. A few had broken or cracked their pots. They were dug out by running a knife around the outside edge of the pot as I was not interested in any tubers that were outside the pot itself.
I tried propogating them straight away last fall, cutting off the stem and taking all tubers out of their pots and cleaning them. Completely unrelated to this, I lost them all due to spider mites.
However, if I were going to over-winter my tubers in storage, I would simply cut the stem of the tuber off, leave them to dry out somewhat, then and wrap them up in newspaper and box them up (leaving them in their pots.)
In the spring, you bring out the pots and let the tubers start to sprout. You can then either replant the pot, or take cuttings and make more...
Cheers,
Russ

For several years, nurseries have been selling small "bedding" type dahlias. They are grown from seeds and the flowers are bright but are not comparable to dahlias grown from tubers or cuttings. They will make some tubers and can easily be dug and planted the next year. However, as they say you get what you pay for. Some other "bedding" type dahlias are grown from cuttings and are actual named varieties from Holland. Examples are the Karma and Gallery series. They are about 24 inches tall and have very nice flowers that are very much like the picture on the tag. They too will make some tubers and can be dug and saved over for another year. Swan Island and other nurseries sell tubers of low growing varieties and they really do well also.

I would not leave them out yet. 36 is too close to freezing. I have a few days right around freezing that killed brand new store bought, very healthy and large tubers. Not a single scrap of tuber to be salveged!
All it took was one night to ruin my tubers!
What I would do, is watch the weather closely, put them out during the day, this will save you window space / lighting space indoors. Let them bask in the sun all day (gradually work them into the sun). But, you are going to need to bring them in during the night for nights forecasted below 45. Not fun, but important.
Better safe then sorry.


I agree, I live inland Southern california where it is 95-100 degrees for three months straight and my Dahlia's thrive in it. I do have to be careful not to get the leaves wet,I had a bad case of powdery mildew last year which I could not get rid of.

Another thought - I purchased a "Black Cat" tuber that was marked as a Karma. I am actually hoping it's not a Karma, but rather the semi-cactus type that is better known. Does anyone know it there is a Karma "Black Cat"? I searched and can't find it anywhere.

I would got for it and hope for success. If you're really concerned about a great Dahlia show this year, you could purchase a few more just in case. In my area, a couple of the dahlia societies are holding their tuber sales now - decent selection for a good price. The Colorado Dahlia Society holds a link to a listing of sales.

I'd change the soil, too. You don't want to keep the soil from the ones that turned black or it'll just make the next new growth rot as well. Did you use garden soil or sterile potting soil to start them? The reason I ask is because there was a soil blight- I can't remember the name of it off hand- around a couple of years ago & plants that came up & were doing great just all of a sudden rotted off at the soil line. There was quite a few gardeners in the midwest & east that were affected. There was a lively discussion on the dahlia net about it at the time as it was something that few people had had before.


I agree- plant in pots or the wire baskets- but after you cut them down in July don't take them out of the baskets- lift the whole thing & take it w/ you soil & all. They will resprout & you'll have a better chance of getting tubers for next year if you let them grow all summer. When we're culling new seedings we cut them off at the ground & they always drive us crazy by coming back w/ more growth when we don't want them to- they're very determined plants!

1- Yes- pinch it back- take out the growing tip--that's called "topping" & will result in a bushier plant with more laterals. This is a "good thing". They will still reach their full height. When you plant out you can plant deeper than they are in the pot to give them exrta stability (like you can do with tomatoes). Be sure to pound in a stake when you plant so you don't damage the tuber putting it in later.
2- yes there is an advantage especially with the AA & A sized dahlias. One good thick sturdy stem as opposed to 2 not so sturdy stems is the result. You can let the laterals grow from this stem & you'll get bigger blooms & more of them. They're also easier to tie up if there's just one stem & it's laterals instead of 2 to get in each other's way. Go to the Colorado Dahlia Society site & look up the part on topping, debranching & disbudding- It's under Dahlia Care & Culture-- lots of good info & pictures to help you along.
If you want you can make a cutting out of the pinched off stem & get another plant for your money!
Here is a link that might be useful: Colorado Dahlia Society Site



In 2 weeks my tubers went from more or less nothing to sprouts ~3" tall. Depending on how deep you've planted them, its not unrealistic that they still haven't broken the surface.
I'll vote for you being too impatient.
Do remember that any air frost may very well kill any growth above ground. I too am in Ontario and would not be comfortable putting out dahlias that are above the surface until the last week of May, at the earliest, unless I had a way to protect them from the frost. Might want to stick to your bring them back in at night for a while longer.
I remember a few years ago we had Zero C on the May 24th weekend.
Cheers,
Russ
Thanks, I will continue to bring them into the garage at night.