3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
Last year I used the wooden stakes from Lee Valley, both short and long. Short when they were in their 4" pots, and long when they went into the beds. I used permanent markers to write on them, and have to say that many did not survive the season. I'm going to try a burning thingy-ma-bob this year.
I will say, however, that my main supplier writes directly on the tubers and I've always been able to read it come the following fall...so there's a lot to be said for that. I just haven't figured out what they used (or how they wrote so nicely on such a rough surface!)
Perhaps someone else can explain how that occurs.
Cheers,
Russ
Sharpies work great on dry tuber skins though like Russ said the rough nubby tubers are tough to write neatly on. If you lose your tag in the season or during digging up, having the name on the mother tuber is a blessing.
I use plastic tags hung on stakes with a twist tie. That tag can move from stake to tuber clump in the fall and be reused. They are soon hidden by flowers or foliage and I'm not one to worry about esthetics, so the tags don't bother me in the least. Black and brown sharpie inks hold up best on labels in sun for me, but recheck them monthly or write in plain old pencil first, sharpie over. I like the Sharpies for ease of seeing at a distance, pencil alone is too light for me, but pencil alone would work too. Some people toss a tag along with the tuber into the planting hole, again, for ID at time of digging.
On damp tubers in the fall, get Sanford No Blot Ink in a Pencil permanent pencils. I bought in bulk from a log home equipment site that has since gone under. Art supply stores or other online sources are options. They work very well, though make a permanent mess if pencil shavings or lead fall where you don't want them. Like on your lips or hands!
A lost identity in the dahlia bed is easily avoidable if one picks a couple labelling methods and uses them consistently. Usually.
Firstly, thanks so much for all the discussion about the little beggers. I whole-heartedly concur with Ted that bringing in that fully growing plant was probably my biggest mistake. Equally, using the soil that came out of the 4" pots that the Dahlias had grown in all summer was another one.
I'm not completely convinced that dusting or soaking the tubers in some solution is mandatory, but I'm certainly leaning in that direction. This fall all that work will be done out-of-doors and the tubers will come in clean, and into new clean soil.
Meanwhile, I have just had a great conversation with a woman at the company whose link is below. They are Canadian sellers of natural pest controls, including mite predators. While I too am concerned about letting things lose in the wild, I'm going to trust someone else in this case as I can only have so many areas of expertise...;-]
She has recommended that I get 2000 predators in vermiculite to cover my 90 sq.ft. of trays indoors. She said they can go on after the tubers are planted, as long as its not too long after (e.g. days are fine.) The predators cannot be stored and should be used as soon as received.
She has further recommended that I get another 2000 during the week (or so) I am going to be taking cuttings, as stress is another factor in mite growth.
Predators like 75F (23C) and ~65% humidity.
I will get some more when the plants go in the ground outside.
Cost is C$45 for 2000, plus a C$12 shipping charge. So that's very reasonable considering I'm trying to keep some C$600 worth of tubers from going to waste.
I'll let you know how it goes. She did recommend I completely scrub everything and try and ensure I've gotten rid of as many ahead of time as possible. That sorta made me laugh...if they can't overcome mites that are there...what use are they? But ok, I'll give them as much of a leg up as I can.
Every other plant in my house is still being tossed, including the soil, and all planters thoroughly cleaned just in case.
Cheers,
Russ
http://www.naturalinsectcontrol.com/catalogue/getprod.cgi?1023A1
Russ, that sounds like a #$%^$load of mites. The guy at the hydroponics store tells me each predator eats 30 a day, plus eggs. I figured 1000 would be good enough to spread between me and 10 of my friends, and take care of the problem in a few weeks, especially in the house. Let us know how it works!!
I'm also reading about companion planting and Nasturtiums will deter aphids and there are some garlic sprays that can be used on the mites.
As I said, Viking- my favorite dahlia is usually the one I'm looking at, at the moment! There's far too many gorgeous ones out there to pick just a couple!...but- Wyn's Dark Dancer was a fav. in the gardens last year ;) I need to upload a picture to show it!
bklynxmas-- first, the back yard grass goes-- who needs it anyway? It always has to be mowed. Then-- the front yard grass-- the neighbors would rather look at dahlias any day-- then you ask them if you can grow your "overflow" at their place. Of course, they always agree. Then....when all else fails you head out to the country & purchase a few acres to grow yet more dahlias on! It's the Dahlia Addiction in full force-- & it all starts with Miss Rose Fletcher!!! ...although-- we do have 63 acres & only have 1.5 of them in dahlias so we have a ways to go yet!
Interesting I didn't see my two favorites mentioned.
China Doll and Sandia Joy. Both relatively small (4" on 24" bushes) but both amazing, IMO. Big is beautiful when you can grow them like Plantlady does, but small is perfect when you're an amateur like me...;-]
Cheers,
Russ
Depending on how much light you get will determine how your dahlias will perform. In my experience they need at least 6 hours of full sun a day, morning light is the best as they tend to wilt during the heat of the day. Dahlias originate from Mexico so yes zone 8 is fine, I am in zone 7 and I leave my dahlias in the ground every year with a heavy winter mulch of leaves. I also have morning sun & dappled afternoon shade. Be careful, I started with 50 plants & now I have over a 1,000. Get a few and see how they grow. Lots of luck!
Second the motion that Plantlady is a doll; always helpful with her vast dahlia knowledge.
Monet you answered a question I had about two plants per one stake, something I am going to try this year in places. To answer yours: corral all the plants' branches with a gentle hug of a tie. Especially when laden with a heavy large, or many smaller blooms, those branches are very prone to break in a wind or wet weather. Best to give all limbs some support to prevent needless loss by breakage.
Some of the really robust growers get two stakes here, at distances apart where I can assure I'm not stabbing into tubers of a neighboring plant, but that can still anchor athe very large dahlia from blowing over in a rain/wind storm. Thankfully we don't get those very often. A 6 foot 1-2 inch bamboo pole has worked really well for some of the bigger plants here, or 5 ft steel fenceposts. Very secure if pounded in well and last a long time.
I'd welcome any helpful hints on growing two plants per one stake. I know I've seen it online in someone's garden: at the ADS or Colorado Dahlia Society site perhaps.
WOW-- you ladies are going to give me a swelled head! We grow the dahlias in the show gardens- aka- the Greenhouse Garden & the Sheep Pen Garden, 2 per stake. We use the 6' steel farm fence posts. Dig your hole- 4-6" deep, put in any ammendments you use- we use 10-20-20 fertilizer & peat soil from the bottom of the farm, pound the stake in the middle of the hole, plant the tubers with their neck end right up against the post-- one on either side, cover w/ about 1" of soil. When the plant starts to grow & push through the soil, just keep filling in the hole until you have a bit of a mound over the tuber. Tie the plants individually to the pole as they grow. Tie all the laterals of one plant together-- ie. go around each plant with one loop of twine, do a figure 8 tie around the post & tie at the back. Do this about every 12-18" We use Christmas Tree twine to tie up all the dahlias whether we do them at posts or in rows.
You will have much fun trying to get the Dahlia tree to bloom before frost. Great idea to get an early start. I grew mine in half barrels of topsoil, sand and compost mixed. Fertilize as you would a garden dahlia, keep watered well and protect from slugs. The more sun and heat, the better.
In Zone 7 it's a real challenge to get long enough days and heat to get them to bloom, but I've had buds well formed before frost in October. Never a bloom this far north though.
Good luck trying! It's a marvelous, awe-inspiring plant to watch grow by leaps and bounds.
I agree gladzoe, great photo especially of the peach/yellow color change one. Very sharp focus. The large red dahlia is pretty nice too, to me. I've never tried to start 1/2" shoots, but the worst that can happen is that it will compost before your eyes.
In England most people buy rooted cuttings instead of tubers. Here in the USA plants are available from a few commercial sources. Many dahlia societies sell rooted cuttings and I believe San Francisco only sells rooted cuttings at it's sales. Dahlias frown from rooted cuttings do just as well as those grown from tubers. They do make tubers but not as many as a tuber grown plant.
Proudgm, you have some beautiful choices there. I just reordered Wanda's Capella after having lost it a couple years ago. Big beautiful yellow. And I adore Weston Spanish Dancer- really a great bloomer along with Pam Howden. Hope you have lots of garden space!
I saw those too and if I remember correctly they were a Gardeners Supply exclusive - meaning that they were the only company carrying them. I did an internet search to see if I could find them elsewhere (and cheaper) with no luck. I peruse garden centers quite frequently during the season and the only place I saw anything similar last year was at Walmarts. They were quite strong, but I don't think as tall.
Welcome, Allie. Good news: depending on where you ordered your tubers they will likely be single dahlia tubers with no dividing necessary. Or they might be similar to what you get at Walmart, a little multi-fingered conglomerate known as potroots. Those are generally smaller they're usually not easily divided. Grow just as well as regular tubers though.
I usually wait to see little nubs of growth on any dahlias to make sure they've got some life in them. It's easy to encourage them to sprout. Just place them with the central stem area exposed, and the rooty parts buried in a pot of barely damp soil or potting mix. Put them in a bright room and you should see growth in a few days, sometimes longer, depending on the variety.
The biggest thing to avoid is planting in cold, wet soil. Put them in pots or flats or whatever until your garden area is warmed up. Using paper-lined pots is a very easy way to get them started and then just slip them into the garden when ready. See the link below for photos.
Good luck!
Here is a link that might be useful: Jroot's thread on dividing & making paper pots
Hi,
I have Baarn Bounty tubers available. What might you have in the way of dahlia varieties? I need these to be true to name and virus free - mine will be in the same condition. Let's talk. Mary