3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
Oh didn't even think of that at the time, but I should have tried it.
Since then I did some reading on cuttings & my dog foraging for bunnies in the garden trampled and broke off a few inch sprout on another dahlia (I've since cordoned off the dahlias that are still small) which I did stick into rooting powder after pulling off the bottom sets of leaves, we shall see if anything good comes of that.
I never have success on cuttings that small outside. They need covered for humidity control, and babied a bit before they get a chance to root. With sections six inches or longer, they do better in the ground if you just leave an inch or so sticking out of the soil.
morpheus, does splitting the tuber clump with half and half guarantee 'eyes' on both sides? I am a bit intimidated by splitting this fall/next spring.
burry, I ordered some nicer tubers this year too and my growth rate is hit or miss it seems also--a few of my SI ones are doing well and others never did anything.
I gave fish emulsion at first for nitrogen, and now MG bloom booster and about 1/2 of my plants are starting to bud now. I do like fertilizing though, gives me something to do while I wait. ;)
>>morpheus, does splitting the tuber clump with half and half guarantee 'eyes' on both sides? I am a bit intimidated by splitting this fall/next spring.
In my experience so far, yes--if you split the stem in half, giving half the tubers one piece of stem, and half another.
You can split them more if the dahlia wants to do that, keeping bits of stem on each set of tubers. One of mine last year spontaneously fell apart into three. Two are in my garden, one is in my mother's,
(Shhh, I don't always split. I actually like a multi-stemmed, wider, denser dahlia. It's a little more susceptible to powdery mildew, but I can control for that if I have to. Plus I have limited garden space for dahlia as they're used as accent plants).
>>I gave fish emulsion at first for nitrogen, and now MG bloom booster and about 1/2 of my plants are starting to bud now. I do like fertilizing though, gives me something to do while I wait. ;)
Cool! Mind the phosphorus levels over time, it takes a while for them to go toxic and toxic levels are very, very high. But over the course of years, it can get there. Mine's riding very high at the moment, so I'm limiting phosphorus sources for the next...well, decade or so!
The occasional garden soil test is a good idea. Mine this year pointed out a modest calcium shortage (with the accompanying pH problem), and a low boron level.
This is my first year with dahlias but I already have a few budding..! Some were slow to get started, others slow to recover once planted in the ground (started in pots in April), but I am surprised to see buds so early here..figured not til late July. We shall see. Only a few have buds, some others are slower, and yet others barely seem to be growing. I have a few Crazy Love tubers that were going gangbusters in pots, transplanted, they have stagnated since. Other tubers planted AFTER the CL's are the ones budding! It's amazing how some varieties just seem so robust and others aren't--even in the same bed!
My understanding is that there are typically two indicators of when dahlias will bloom... Growing conditions and leaf set counts. (A buildup of virus plays
a factor in the growing condition, which can stunt a plant)
Each variety of dahlia has a genetically pre-determined number of leaf sets required before a plant sets buds. For example, Mingus Toni (a nice varigated informal decorative) always blooms for me after about eight sets of leaves starting from the tuber. (This year, I had the sad task of disbudding a terminal bud in April before I even got it into the ground. Still waiting for the first blooms from that one, as I topped the plant to help it develop side branches.) Regardless of where this variety grows, one should have an average of eight leaf sets from bloom to tuber. I've seen as few as six (Hollyhill Spiderwoman) to mid-20s (Levonne Splinter) leaf sets, with citron de Cap somewhere in the middle (12? 14?)
When growing conditions are optimized and even, advanced growers can use leaf count data for each variety to time blooms for shows. Some delay blooming by debranching and extreme disbudding, counting the leaf sets and only allowing the plant to set a bud at the right time.
Perhaps tracking leaf sets might interest you.... But it is from the tuber and not the ground level, so there is a risk of damaging the plant/tuber at this point to get the exact count. I only casually notice them, as it's interesting but not pertinate info for how I grow.
It sounds like growing conditions really excelled after things settled down, and you've got some great dahlias coming on to make all the early stress well worth it!
Cheers,
CC
This post was edited by CCvacation on Mon, Jul 21, 14 at 13:30
Thank you Highland for your advise and concern. I have decided that it is that the soil is too wet and I am going to move the remaining dahlias to higher ground. My local extension service has been called and a soil sample taken. I have to figure out how to get better drainage in those beds. I cannot build up the soil because the beds are contained in stone. First things first today I am on a rescue mission. I have never moved dahlias before but I believe they will die if I leave them where they are. Wish me luck. Thanks again.
Kudos to you for having blooms already!
Yes, they will still be blooming end of August, but sadly, they might be not quite up to standards... Aggressive watering, disbudding and fertilizing might rejuvenate them a month before showing, though.
Several serious show growers I know deliberately start their dahlias late, timing the first of the blooms for the shows. Often, they will only allow 3-4 blooms on each plant of the larger varieties FOR THE LIFE OF THE PLANT! This forces the energy of the plant into those few blooms (only one developing and blooming at a time).
For me, showing is secondary to continuous blooms, and I'd rather have a lush garden for a longer season. But, oh, those show blooms! WOW!
Cheers,
CC
Michael, check out this group on Facebook, and perhaps ask Martin the moderator privately if he has any suggestions on who you may contact. Don't know how close he is to you (Canada is a big place), but he has good grower contacts in that area and believes in the importance of mentorship.
This group has a wealth of documents worth checking out under the 'files' tab, and many hybridizers and advanced show folk read what is posted. Their response to questions depends on how specific the questions are, and how much someone has done their homework first before asking. (Rule of thumb on that forum is-" don't ask if the answer is a google search away.")
Cheers, and good luck at the shows!
CC
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing and Showing Dahlias
I just planted a few tubers with sprouts a week ago in zone 7 and they are already double the size. I don't know if you can store til next year so I would probably just plant them and see how far you can get. Even if they don't set buds, if they leaf out the tubers underneath will be growing roots and happy so you will most likely get more tubers at fall.
I had to chuckle, I was going through a box in the basement and I found a bunch of stuff I'd taken out of the ground for storage, not after last season, but after 2012 season. Most everything was desiccated except for two dahlias, which showed sprouts. I planted them. Reminds me, I better go check on them. But yeah, do it yesterday, they might make it. May not bloom, but should give the roots a chance to reconstitute â¦
_~
dave
You couldn't just ask at the garden center...
Sorry not familiar with that one. Do you know the Dahlienverzeichnis. There is a kind of search function, I narrowed it down to Dekorative Dahlie", mehrfarbig/ multicolored and Grundfarbe rot. You could filter more by adding ca. hight and flowersize
And if you speak German you could try that other site: Dahlienliebhaber. You have to register as well, nice plant nerds, they could ID some plants for me last year.
Bye, Lin
Here is a link that might be useful: Dahlienverzeichnis
Bumping this thread-I noticed this evening that a few of my dahlias are suddenly starting to get yellowing leaves (over the last day literally it seems as I look at them daily). This is one pic of a plant that is otherwise thriving, has a few buds, about to bloom.
Pics for the tomato spotted virus seem like almost any yellowing leaf could be it, but I'm wondering about iron or nitrogen deficiency as I have mostly been fertilizing with a bloom fertilizer.
I'm hesitant to just assume tomato virus and toss the plant since it's otherwise extremely healthy with lots of growth--should I try iron and see or nitrogen or ? Also it's been pretty dry the last week though I have been watering, so no leaf droop.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Well-drained soil is key for dahlia. Mine are in raised beds, with the majority on the southern face where it's very warm.
Don't water the tubers when you plant, the soil is damp enough unless it's bone dry. Dahlia won't generally require any watering at all until they're six inches tall or so.
Planting before frost ends isn't necessarily a no-no, but dahlia dislike sprouting until the soil temperature reaches 60. As long as the plant hasn't sprouted and the soil doesn't freeze, they won't be harmed by frost (but it'll slow them down).
Here in eastern PA, my target date is usually between May 1 and May 10th--which is a touch early as there's still some chance of frost here at that time (but a small chance). I do it early because my annuals have to go starting May 10th-May 15th, and that's a lot of work. The dahlia don't mind.
wilt points to bacterial or fungal disease or
heavy, sudden root damage (which IMO is more unlikely).
That bug looks like an infant woodlouse or something, perhaps it just happened to crawl along and was not the cause.
Otherwise I would expect to see some damage on the leaves.
Thanks y'all!! It prob is a dinner plate but not sure which one. I ordered a bunch this year and never try to keep up with the names. May be one of the many Cafe Au Lait I ordered. I put them in the ground as bulbs after our last frost date which is April 15. They are healthy looking but I do have a few burnt leaves that I am assuming they get from the hot afternoon sun. Not really sure though. It's my only spot left to grow them so I gotta put up with the hot afternoons. Judy
You clearly have a cat infestation. Just saying.
I'm presuming you watered? They should pop up in a few hours if water was the issue, and with two in a pot they'd be more demanding of water (and all other resources).
You could transplant that second dahlia to another pot if you want, but you're likely to shock both a little bit when you do. Keep the soil moist in both pots until the plants don't wilt in full sun any longer, which usually takes about a week (if they even shock at all).
It's hard to tell but I have had some insect damage which can result in curling/black leaves. I pinch them off and inspect the plants. I've had thrips and also mealybugs, so I'm spraying homemade insecticidal soap for now. I just don't want them on the buds.
Hi vvon
I would not worry too much, IME it's what Dahlias do when they get a certain size. Mine always have hollow stems, and I just cut shortly above a node or junction. I never lost a plant because of a rotting hollow stem. I think that wasn't valid advise
To my knowledge hollow stems are to be avoided when taking cuttings, but that means you need young shoots.
So enjoy your plants, and if in doubt keep taking pics in case you need to analyze/ find a problem somewhen later.
Have a great Dahlia season, bye, Lin
Thank you so much, I feel much better!