3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
At this point in the summer, it is very late to be planting dahlia tubers. I would find a nursery that has them in bloom already and plant them in your bed. Dahlias love the sun, so I am not sure about afternoon sun. I would see how they do, and if they do well, plan on getting dahlia tubers in the ground around mid April next Spring
Dahlias probably can't be over-wintered in your area. If you get frost in the ground, you shouldn't leave them in over the winter.
Of the 43 varieties I grew this year, they took between 8 and 84 days to grow enough to get above ground. The average was 31 days. You wouldn't want them to be above ground while there was still frost in the air (this gives you and idea of when they can be planted in the spring.)
They should start blooming between 90 and 120 days after they're planted.
Each variety should describe whether its an early or late bloomer (or neither.)
They'll then bloom until frost kills the stem. Then can then be lifted, stored over winter, and the tubers planted out next spring. Alternatively, you can take cuttings in the spring...see my propagating dahlias photo set:
Cheers,
Russ
I started some Unwin's from seed this year. I hope I have good luck with them. They are about 6-8 inches tall right now and will probably get planted out in the next week while I am on break from work. I have a spot that gets good AM sun and light shade in the afternoon and evening.
One disappointing discovery: the blooms don't last very long. The first two may have lasted a week or close to it, but the more recent seemed to be blown apart by wind yesterday after a few days. Will decide about keeping after the rest nine bloom to see coloring and durability.
The plant will continue to grow & get to the usual height. We've had such a miserable wet, cold spring that everything is slower to gain it's growth. Now that the warm weather has hit hopefully we'll get some real growth going on. You can pinch out the center bud to make the laterals grow from the next leaf joint. Give it a well rounded fertilizer-- we use 10-20-20 when planting & they're just starting to get their feeder roots down to it now.
Thank you all for your ideas!
Due to my zone (7-8), some of them might be a bit hard to grow here, but I'll ask someone at Nursery next time I go there!
If I can find salvia which will remain somewhat green during winter, it would be great, too.
I have planted Liatris bulbs in different location for the first time this year. I'll see how they grow and decide if I want them in my dahlia bed as well.
All advices are very inspiring. Thank you !!!
-b
If you truly love them and they are a rare dahlia, I would dig them up and take them. They are considered an annual where we live. If they helped you sell your house, then it is a small investment to make a good sale. The new owner may want them. Check it out with them.
If moving them, take a big chunk of soil so as not to disturb the roots, and put in a large pot. Once potted, they can readily be moved. I don't think I would try to split them at this point.
You could do as jroot suggests to move them & also cut them back to a foot or two tall so they don't have as hard a time adjusting to being dug up. You'll miss a few series of blooms but still the plant will come back from the leaf joints & bloom later in Sept & you'll have tubers for next year.
So the Dahlias have no twine tied to their stalks but rather in effect what Walt is doing is creating a little "Christmas tree twine" cage for the plants if they need a little extra support, correct?
Now I love the idea that I can lose some of those steaks this year for my dinnerplates. I can never get them (the stakes) deep enough into the ground so that they aren't sticking up like goofy tall pencils over my beautiful blossoms! Thank you Plantlady.
Right- no twine on the stalks. The sheer bulk of the plants will hold them up unless you get really bad winds- & then nothing is going to help. Only a very few ever need to be tied on either side of the plant- I think the threat of being pulled out by the roots & fed to the cows helps make them stand up nice & straight, too >:)
Hi Jroot-
Well, as I said, the first one got away before I could take the pics. But I found another and apologize for my inability to provide better detail in the close ups of this teensy critter.
Unfortunately, these pictures have come out in reverse order so the last one is the first thing I saw (hmm, is that rust or a sac?), the second to the last, the second thing and so on.
Liza, I think you'll love China Doll, particularly because of how many blooms it puts on...prolific doesn't do it justice.
Poochella, in fact I did hope that the granite mulch might prolong the season a little due to the heat, and/or promote better growth. I have my fingers crossed that it won't get too hot. I also didn't want stuff that would grow weeds, as has been my experience with organic mulches.
FYI, it is supposed to get black after a few rains.
Penerosa, there are certainly similarities, but...I don't really think it looks like a waterlily. I could be wrong, but I think yours is a Formal Decorative. China Doll is 4" diameter on a 18-24" bush, what size is yours?
Cheers,
Russ
Oh heck, how does one know the difference? :-) Must take some studying. Here's one that looks like mine...I have a feeling it's a wild goose chase though...
Here is a link that might be useful: Baron Jerry