3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
That Canadian dollar kills us nowdays Triple B! Ferncliff does have a very wonderful reputation, but there are a couple east coast dahlia sources that have good feedback as well.
Shipping isn't that much more expensive, I don't think, from one coast to another, but if you run across exceptional service and quality tubers or cuttings, please let us know.
Ferncliff Gardens Reviews B.C.
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/195/
Endless Summer in Maine
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/4109/
Hilltop Gardens in N.C.
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/5062/
Pleasant Valley Glads and Dahlias in MA
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/367/
Ednie Flower Bulb Co. NJ
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/3279/
There are others on the east coast without reviews or feedback, some not specific to dahlia sales, but still with good reputations. Check it out. Cut and paste the URLs into your browser, visit their websites, but order soon.
I have no reason to leave most of our NW vendors because many of them know dahlias like the backs of their hands. It pays to be vigilant though, and the Garden Watchdog is a valuable source for feedback on personal experiences from the public.
yes well although our dollar parity make it cheaper to buy some things in the US the taller shipping expenses often soak up the savings. One thing I have learned.
What kills me is NONE of the US rose growers will ship to Canada because of phytosanitary stuff and disease control. And you guys get some killer deals that we don't.
The good and bad of it all I guess.
I always remember a May 24 a couple of years ago where the temp as zero. I also am reminded by a couple of plants I did put in my pond this year which have completely died back.
IOWs, patience!
None of my 200+ plants are yellow, and they aren't getting gobs of light. They are getting tons of water.
Remember, it only takes one night of too cold whether to kill months of effort.
Cheers,
Russ
Everything is in today. Just have to wait and see. I was surprised by having 5 mushy tubers from Swann. I either didn't store them right or they ship too early. What I need to know is the ones that had eyed up, some had dried. Will they come back? I just put the tubers in peat when they came and let the little heads peek out. Misted now and than but not wet.
I've ordered from Swan Island, Connells, Arrowhead and Cowlitz River. They all had excellent service and tubers were in great condition when they arrived. The cuttings from Corralito's are also very good. Teresa from Cowlitz replaced a tuber for me that I turned to mush out of my own stupidity. On top of that, got another free one with that replacement. Can't get any better than that.
What I understand is that fertilizer for tubers is intended to get them to root, not flower. Ergo, that is your goal too, so you should be able to follow any instructions for tubers and it will work for cuttings too. Personally, I'd opt for no fertilizer at all.
Cheers,
Russ
Thanks Russ,
I guess cuttings work a little differently. Kevin emailed me back and he said it's ok to use a 10-20-20 to mix into the soil before putting into the pots. Then fertilize with a water soluble high N&K once a week for the 1st 4 weeks. Then once a month. When buds form, switch to high P&K.
Ginny,
Practically all of my 68 Dahlias are from cuttings. I have no experience with this, but I've done a lot of research.
A tuber is planted lower because it is the fuel for the new plant. A cutting has no tuber, so there is nothing to protect (e.g. there is no fuel to protect from sun or rot.)
Ergo, since Dahlias are shallow root plants, a cutting is planted shallower because it is expected that the tuber will form below the base of the roots, whereas a tuber should be below the base of the sprout so the roots can grow up or down from it.
My "research" says that there is no difference in terms of the plant produced. Planting a pre-started tuber is no different than starting a cutting, IMO. If there is an existing stalk, and there are leaves on it, then you have a choice whether to bury the first set or not. It matters not whether that's a tuber or cutting. If you bury any leaf sets, they should be cut off. No need to feed something that you expect to die (i.e. the branches that are buried are going to die for lack of sun, the Dahlia is going to treat the node as a place to put out new roots if its below ground.)
If you consider the fact that you can't get a cutting to grow unless some portion of it is below ground, and that the part below ground is going to put out roots, you should soon see that its the roots, not the distance below ground, that determines whether the plant is strong or not.
IOWs, there should be no difference in the strength of a cutting versus a sprout from the tuber. The weight of the tuber isn't relavent.
I've currently got >200 cuttings that all look as good as the few I grew from tubers. I've had to stake some of the cuttings, and some of the sprouts from the tubers...
Sorry for rambling...;-]
Cheers,
Russ
Creve Coeur; Danum Meteor; Wyn's Cinnabar & Wildman are all AA size SC & red. The most Christmas Red one I think would be Creve Coeur. If you could make do with an A sized one the clearest, cherry red I know is Wyn's Dapper Dad but it's more of an ID form.
Ellie
Cuttings will take 3-4 weeks to root, they then need 4-5 weeks 'potted on' in 3 1/2 or 4 inch pots to establish strong roots and growth before planting out. Then reckon on 4-5 weeks to the first blooms. I'll be planting mine out at the end of May and expect the first blooms in the first half of July with the main cropping through August and September with blooms continuing until November or the first frost, whichever comes first!
Here is a link that might be useful: Withypitts Dahlias
Kitkat- they'll come back fine if they were just nipped on the tips. Your blooms might be one flower late but not more than topping would have done. You were lucky that the frost wasn't a hard one that would mush up all the new growth but even then, if the tuber doesn't freeze the plant will usually start growing all over again but blooming is set back every time you lose new growth.
Ellie
linnea56,
They can usually be found pretty cheap at asian markets/groceries. If you're in IL, then you'd probably find something in Chicago's chinatown. I've made the 8 hour drive out there from MN a few times and their chinatown is pretty big. Good luck!
Zorro is my red AAID and Gregory Stephen my red AASC.
Lavender Ruffles (AAID) is my pink (ok, Lavender) mostly because its based on Purple Taiheijo, which I absolutely adored last year.
For white I went with Iceberg (AAID), also based on Purple Taiheijo.
All from Swan Island Dahlias.
Cheers,
Russ
Forgot to ask-- did you cut a hole in the bottom of the small container so the sand stays REALLY wet- the water below isn't just for humidity- it's to keep the sand wet at all times. You're growing your cutting in the water- the sand is just to keep it standing up straight- which it will do if it's shorter. If you didn't cut a hole it won't be wet enough & the cuttings will wilt.
I did put holes in. I figured the sand had to be sopping wet. Then I can water from below too to keep it wet. I did think of cutting up the long stems and making more sections, but I donÂt know what IÂm going to do with these as it is! I have a lot of tubers started. They were too leggy and I knew I had to cut them down, and hated to waste anything.
jroot
I didn't plant any. I have them in the litter boxes. When it is nice I put them outdoors. I chickened out about the planting. I have one tuber in water trying to see if it will show an eye. It wa from Swan. How long should I leave it there before I get another?
Plant them! They'll be just fine.
Ellie