3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias

Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dahliagardener

The branches stay at the same place- dahlias grow at the tip- so you can safely use tomato cages & you won't harm them.
Ellie

    Bookmark     May 6, 2008 at 8:48PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sturgeonguy(5a ON)

Thanks Ellie, that's a huge relief!!

Cheers,
Russ

    Bookmark     May 7, 2008 at 9:11PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
linht(4a)

linnea56,

They can usually be found pretty cheap at asian markets/groceries. If you're in IL, then you'd probably find something in Chicago's chinatown. I've made the 8 hour drive out there from MN a few times and their chinatown is pretty big. Good luck!

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 11:43PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Poochella(7 WA)

Another shorter option I just employed: shishkabob sticks as used for grilling veggies. Works great. Thin and lightweight.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2008 at 5:10PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sturgeonguy(5a ON)

Zorro is my red AAID and Gregory Stephen my red AASC.

Lavender Ruffles (AAID) is my pink (ok, Lavender) mostly because its based on Purple Taiheijo, which I absolutely adored last year.

For white I went with Iceberg (AAID), also based on Purple Taiheijo.

All from Swan Island Dahlias.

Cheers,
Russ

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 6:58AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sayhellonow

Thanks Russ! I'll check out Swan. And Viking: Thanks for that Perfection recommendation.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2008 at 11:17AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
dahliagardener

Forgot to ask-- did you cut a hole in the bottom of the small container so the sand stays REALLY wet- the water below isn't just for humidity- it's to keep the sand wet at all times. You're growing your cutting in the water- the sand is just to keep it standing up straight- which it will do if it's shorter. If you didn't cut a hole it won't be wet enough & the cuttings will wilt.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 9:37PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
linnea56(z5 IL)

I did put holes in. I figured the sand had to be sopping wet. Then I can water from below too to keep it wet. I did think of cutting up the long stems and making more sections, but I donÂt know what IÂm going to do with these as it is! I have a lot of tubers started. They were too leggy and I knew I had to cut them down, and hated to waste anything.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 10:35PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
pdshop(5)

jroot
I didn't plant any. I have them in the litter boxes. When it is nice I put them outdoors. I chickened out about the planting. I have one tuber in water trying to see if it will show an eye. It wa from Swan. How long should I leave it there before I get another?

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 11:22AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jroot(5A Ont. Canada (near Guelph))

I wouldn't put the tuber in water. It can rot that way. Put it in MOIST, not wet, potting soil, with sun or light on top. I think that is the best way.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 3:48PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
triple_b(BC 5b)

it is so hard to tell when "All danger of frost has past" these days with Climate Change. I mean we thought we were done with snow two weeks ago (and the weather the weekend before it was lovely) and yet there it was.
Ma Nature has gone all hormonal on us.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2008 at 7:19PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sturgeonguy(5a ON)

Looking up historical lows gives you a pretty good idea, despite climate change. For me its pretty easy, I just remember a few years ago when a bunch of kids were camping on my lawn and the temperature went down to 0C on a May 24th weekend.

Another mistake people seem to make is planning for planting out pre-started Dahlias versus when others plant out tubers with eyes. In-ground frost has already past, and if you consider it would likely take 6 weeks for a plant to emerge from the soil, you realize that they aren't likely to be subjected to air-frost prior to mid-june in my zone, later if the tubers went in on May 24 as is customary around here.

Cheers,
Russ

    Bookmark     May 2, 2008 at 7:09AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Poochella(7 WA)

You guys and gals in zone 5 are much braver in planting so early than I in zone 7. If you cut off the frozen growth, the eyes will be sending out new shoots and likely more than one. You can let them all grow, or break off the extras that emerge, leaving just one main stalk. Your choice.

Unless you have a very deep, prolonged freeze again, there should be no need to dig up tubers. They'll do they're growing thing with a bit more warmth and no further help from you.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2008 at 9:41PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Poochella(7 WA)

Have you considered terracing planting beds in that area? It would be quite a bit of work, but if they can do it in the Andes and in steep SE Asian slopes, so can you. My sunniest area is on a fairly sloped hill, but so far I'm only working on the base of it.

It would be entirely possible to cut out beds, bolster them on the downhill side and grow dahlias or anything else to your heart's content.

Here is a link that might be useful: Picture a hillside of dahlias here

    Bookmark     May 1, 2008 at 9:35PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
jroot(5A Ont. Canada (near Guelph))

It sounds like you don't have much choice, but to cut off the damaged parts. Often they will send up new shoots for you. If they are not planted in the ground, one should consider taking them indoors to a garage for the night, and then back out the next day. They will be okay on nights that are not so cold.

When you mention the you "placed a tarp" on them, I hope it is not a plastic tarp. That doesn't seem to work well for me. I prefer to use an old sheet which breathes, if it is cool. On clear nights, when the temperature is really low though, I always take them indoors. I never plant in the ground until ALL danger of frost is over. Here that is the 1st of June, but the plants have had the benefit of a month and a half of growing outdoors in pots.

    Bookmark     May 1, 2008 at 1:06PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
weirdtrev

I am going to plant mine this weekend. I think the beginning of May is a perfect time since it is when you should plant other frost sensitive plants like tomatoes. It looks like the weather will be great this weekend so go ahead and plant them. Even if by some rare chance we still have a frost you can cover them.

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 6:57PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
helinum

Sorry, clarification: The list of dahlias is in the midwest exchange forum, because I'd rather not have to ship the plants but hope someone will be able to pick them up.

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 4:03PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
sturgeonguy(5a ON)

If you have a lot of bulbs, you might consider buying an old fridge, say one where the freezer no longer works. Then just turn the temperature up to above 40 and keep them in there. They can often be found for $50. Granted, they'll use more electricity than a new one.

Cheers,
Russ

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 6:57AM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
rose_nutty(z4b)

Have you considered growing them in pots? They may not bloom as well as they would in the ground, but at least you'd keep them alive and then you could move them with you.

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 2:32PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
Poochella(7 WA)

If you want to encourage more side branches which will bear flowers, "top" the plant by snapping off the center of the uppermost growth at about 15" tall, or 3-4 leaf sets. It will produce a fuller plant, not shorter than it is destined to be genetically.

Just reach in with thumb and forefinger nails and snap off the center tip between two leaf nodes. This is easiest when the plant is cool and fullest of moisture: evening or early a.m. The only thing not to do is harm the little new growths on either side of your breaking point. You won't. It's easy as pie and a good way to get green thumbnails.

The link offers two very detailed methods of topping dahlias. It's a bit involved for my needs, but may be helpful.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dahlias.net

    Bookmark     April 29, 2008 at 10:41PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
pdshop(5)

I read from Swans that when the plant has about 3 to 4 set of leaves that we are supposed to cut the whole top off leaving about an inch or more and than plant and cover the whole thing.?

    Bookmark     April 30, 2008 at 9:40AM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
phylrae(z5a/centralNYS)

Lizalily-thanks for your input. I do like the anemonie and waterlily forms, but have to admit that I can't stand the ball or pom form-they look like brains or something to me. They just are a personal turnoff, though I'm sure a lot of people like them. They remind me of that eyeball plant Spilanthes-just gross me out for some reason!

Triple b, I like many of the collarettes, at least from the photos. I just hope I can overwinter them correctly! :0) I'm a hands-on learner...SHOW me, and I do fine. Try to read and just follow directions, that confuses me! :0) Phyl

    Bookmark     April 28, 2008 at 5:30PM
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
triple_b(BC 5b)

so many people are that way. learning by doing is still the best way to cement the knowledge into the brain.

    Bookmark     April 29, 2008 at 4:06PM
Sign Up to comment
Thank you for reporting this comment. Undo
teddahlia

You can easily take cuttings that root easily with no chemicals. All pots need to be sterile, use bleach. Use soiless mix such as Sunshine #3 or4 or something called germination mix. Do not use potting soil. Take cuttings by cutting them from tuber 1/16 of an inch above tuber. This will include the best part of the stem to root. Cutting material should be about 3 inches tall plus or minus one inch. Place cutting in moist soil mix in the small pot and place into a clear or white plastic bag and tie shut. Place pots in bags under florescent light source about 6 inches from the bulb. They will be rooted in 12 days. Temperature of area where this is done should be about 70 degrees. I have taken several thousand cuttings using this method.

    Bookmark     April 29, 2008 at 2:23PM
Sign Up to comment
© 2015 Houzz Inc. Houzz® The new way to design your home™