3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias

Poochella - if you had seen how I mistreated my tubers.... I should have planted them out weeks before I got them in the ground. I also did something new with my container mix and I'm nervous that they won't like it. Last year I used straight Pro-Mix out of the bag for my containers and it stayed very wet all summer - has a lot of peat in it. My tuber production last year was really weak and the tubers didn't grow well - altho I had plenty of flowers, but I think we broke records for cloudy days and rain. So this year I mixed up container mix, Sweet Peet ( composted chips and cow manure ) and about 25% of a heavy shredded mulch for drainage. I put in 2 layers of Bulbtone - 1 way down in the pots and then one closer to the tubers. I use big 40 and 60 gallon containers on my deck for dahlias. Its going to be a very porous mix and of course this year is already a scorcher. It will be 95 tomorrow and we haven't had rain in 2 weeks.
I am trialing just 6 dahlias out in the garden to see if I can keep the critters off them. At least there are uninteresting perennials in front like peonies that the deer won't eat. This year of course I have my Otto's, and I decided to do screaming hot colors - orange Papageno, purple Thomas Edison, White Perfection, and pink Omega.
I also grow lilies in pots and I set a nice container of unknown asiatics that I forgot I planted last year till they sprouted.. out next to a bench. This morning my strongtoothed friends had nipped off the buds and left the pretty green stalks for me to enjoy. I sprayed pepper spray over my whole garden today. Blasted 4 legged rats.

I find that the direct planted dahlias catch up to the ones started in the greenhouse. The only benefit to starting early in my mind is with the late flowering varieties, and the tubors that don't look to good in early Spring. This gives them the benefit of not getting eaten by nasty little critters at soil level.


I use about 1/2 cup of bonemeal in each hole when planting and side dress with granular 6-12-12 twice during the growing season when plants are still in the green stage and again after four weeks, but not too late in the fall when plants are dying back as you want the energy to go back into tubor.

Gray Barn Nursery on 202 and Sahalee Way had packaged tubers left late last week. Maybe 5-6 varieties. Sprouting too, not quite dessicated messes yet. I did not look for potted dahlias there.
PSDA might be a good outlet for you. If nothing else, ask around there and some kind soul might be able to help you out. I'd help you out, but I had to do a last minute order myself last week. There's another party in east King Co that might help you; if you have an email on your member page, I'll send that info there.
Here is a link that might be useful: Gray Barn Nursery

I might have a few extra potted dahlias. Would you be interested in meeting me at the Fauntleroy Ferry dock (west Seattle) at a prearranged time to get them? I will check what duplicates I have tomorrow if you are interested. I live on Vashon Island.
lilymolady@gmail.com

There really isn't a classification by height, but the link below will take you to one site specializing in shorter dahlias. For short ones like the 12" goal you mention, I'd just stick with the annual dahlias you can find at the big stores Lowe's Home Depot etc. But for real excitement and variety, there's nothing like the 3-4-5+ footers.
Enjoy your newfound love of dahlias.
Here is a link that might be useful: Container sized dahlias

If you check out Ferncliff Gardens, they have quite the selections. You can at least get an idea of what you'd like! Either check the Miniature or Bedding.
You could try Suitzuz Julie 14" purply pink (very pretty) and Longwood Dainty 20" orange/peach in colour (my fav from last year)
Just a thought :)


I will see what I can do - I don't have a digital camera, but my brother does. The next time he visits, I'll ask him if he can take a few pictures and save them to my computer. Then, of course, I'll have to figure out how to get them onto the GardenWeb! But I may as well give it a try....


Here's a big list of diseases that can affect dahlias. I would guess crown gall. (Google for images of this)
Here is a link that might be useful: UC Davis dahlia disease list


thanks to both of you. unfortunately, it's not just the bottom leaves and it seems limited to just one variety that i bought this year, so i'm pretty sure it's a bug or a fungus. i bought 2 kinds...one just a figaro mix, which are fine and "sunburst" which are beautiful, but yellowing on all the leaves. i'm going to try bayer's 3 in one rose and flower which is supposed to aid blooming (no real problem here), and control bugs and fungus. wish me luck. they will either be better when i get back from vacation or they will be near death........

It seems you put other plants at risk by keeping a gall infected plant. Here's a great article, though it does not offer much hope for any kind of treatment. Like questionable food in the fridge: "if in doubt, throw it out" might be good advice. Or, keep it isolated in a pot and discard it, if it makes it through the season.
Here is a link that might be useful: crown gall article


Shrivelled isn't ideal, but it's not the death knell either. Go ahead and plant them. Don't let them sit out in the air much longer. I looked at your photos and see a few candidate spots where eyes might be on several of the tubers. Look on the collar of the tuber for a small raised bump- perhaps pale yellow, pink, or very pale green, and plant that side up.
Or, if you want to make sure they have eyes, you can put the clumps in a gallon bag with barely moist potting soil, top of bag open. Keep them warm and light and within days those bumps should become visible. You don't need to bury them, just a few handsful of soil with a couple tbsp of water mushed around to give them a little moisture. Works like a charm here.
Good luck!

I am happy to report that my dahlias survived. I planted them soon after this post. Awhile back two popped up that i planted in a corner of the yard so wouldnt be disturbed.
As well, one came up where I originally dug them up, must have missed one. They are all about 8 inches high.
I am thrilled. So, I have one to share if anyone in OC wants one.
Thanks for all the help.



Hi
To my eye the picture does not seem to support the diagnosis of powdery mildew. Mildew is unmistakable in
appearance. The leaves will seem to have been sprayed
with a white powder. Just a few leaves or the whole
plant if bad case. Appears to me from the picture to
be mites or aphids. I would spray with a combo insect-
icide/fungicide to be on the safe side. Plants appear
to be cramped for living space which invites disease etc.
Hope this helps.


I am so excited having just picked 4 blooms from Dahlias started in pots then transplanted to my garden in May. I beleive these are all Orchid types if that is what the single ones with the rolled and pointed petals are. I saw a Display of these at Pt Defiance parks' dalia garden last year and just had to buy every one of them I culd find! I am in love with them even with their first bloom on small plants and can not wait until they get up to size and blooming at eye level or above like the ones at the park! I think 2 of these first ones were Northfield Sparkler and Amy's Star.


Wood ashes are usually considered for potash content which help tubers to form. Check out the website below which discusses wood ashes.
You can use Mor-Bloom 0-10-10 which is an Alaska Corporation product at the rate of one quart a week per plant as a drench and this will stiffen your stems without giving the plants any nitrogen. The mixture rate is one tablespoon per gallon. You can also use it as a spray. You can find Mor-Bloom on the net or Lowe's and Home Depot now carry some Alaska products.
Here is a link that might be useful: UCONN IPM: Homegrounds: using wood ashes in the garden
Thanks for responding Huey and the website.
I couldn't stop myself and just poured a little ash in a semicircle around a number of my plants. We'll see. Meanwhile I will look for Mor-Bloom.
Patricia