3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias

Thanks J!
If only April could have been a little nicer to us? I wasn't able to get my plants out of the basement and into the garage in earl April or out of doors until very late Apr for better lighting and then had to bring them in almost every night because of the unusual freezing cold nights. (We set a record for the Snowiest and Coldest April).
Then we had frost about ever third day during May up until just the other night and cold very nights. (Our last frost date on average is May 9). I hope the season fairs better as we go along.
I'm early to bed as a rule and on the eleven o'clock news they were going to have a segment on "Our Changing Way of Gardening" (in Central - Upstate NY) due to climatic changes. We get enough bad news as it is so I hit the sack early.
Thanks again for the info! I'm glad to know about the 4" and usually follow pot level. You as well as others give such great information when needed.
Jim

All I can say is what works for me:)
Ah yes, indeed, we may be changing our way of gardening. Water is becoming a more costly unless one has access to a natural water source. I live on a river bank, but I am a LONG way UP a steep bank and through the bush from the river. I have been concentrating on brugmansia and dahlias here, as well as the other normal perennials, but the brugs in particular are very thirsty, and food hogs as well. That may have to change. Ah well, we are always up to a new challenge.

Your guess is correct- they won't be happy in constantly saturated soil. Could you plant them in a pot on a rock slab or at least high above that flooded soil, or berm them up a foot or so? The tubers won't grow far down, 8-12 inches maximum, but they would definitely suffer in constantly wet soil.
I wonder if the water company would pay attention to the leak if house foundations were undermined. That's a real shame to be so wasteful of a valuable resource.

Thanks for the advice. I think I'll put them into a single large pot on a slab (and try to remember to water them!)
And yes, Thames Water are absolutely useless. Last year we had very low rainfall and consequently a hosepipe ban from spring through to late winter of this year. Yet it's estimated that around a third of the water supply is lost through leaks before it even reaches customers.

And here's another excellent site with great photos in the "Learning Center."
Here is a link that might be useful: Mid Island Dahlia Society Site


I find that sometimes dahlias are like petulant children. They will come up when they are good and ready. Often the ones that come up later, come on gangbusters when the sun gets warmer, and the light suits their needs, and they often become the stronger plants. Not always though, but often.
I agree with Grannymarsh. All the basics seem to be in good condition, so wait and see.

Joanie I grew them in San Antonio for a number of years and we have a member in the Georgia Dahlia Society that grew them in central Florida. They grow dahlias in Australia in 110 degree heat so it can be done.
The issues are, do you have the time and devotion to give them the extra care that will be required? Another issue is selection of dahlias that are heat tolerant. A list of these tubers is found on the DS of Georgia website but that page is currently down. It should be back up tomorrow or the next day.
The secret to growing dahlias in the heat is to take steps, constant watering, mulching, and attention, to make sure they live through the heat until the cool fall temperatures arrive in your area. Then you will be rewarded with beautiful blooms just like in the cooler regions of the country.
Here is a link that might be useful: Dahlia Society of Georgia

It is certainly worthy of a try. My neighbour has one, and it works well. I don't think he had it running for an hour, but we are in a much more moderate growing zone, here in southern Ontario.
To avoid the mildew problem, be sure to pinch off the lower 4 inches of leaves ( when the plant gets mature enough), so there is an air flow. Other than that, watch it carefully, and if you see mold developing, change the situations somehow, by either reducing the water flow, or pinching the leaves higher.
To be honest, I have seriously thought about doing something similar.
Keep us posted.

Dear Jroot - THANK YOU! I had almost despaired of anyone answering my question. I have already planted the tub with white, lavender-pink, and carmine Cosmos in the middle and dark blue Crystal Palace lobelia around the edges ALONG WITH: several adorable plants selling at the nursery under the name "Dahliaettes". The miniature or dwarf dahlias are beautiful, with flowers in a wonderful shade of warm pink. I went to the nursery in a neighboring town and fell in love with these little plants. I've been tinkering with the amount of water that comes out of the sprinklers and have fine-tuned it so that the plants don't get battered. Your advice about the lower leaves is EXACTLY what I needed to know - the dahlias are so compact and sort of dense that I am concerned about mold, etc. We generally have a dry climate here throughout the summer, but I'm sure the mold could still happen - I just didn't know what to do about it. I will post an update on the situation - whether the sprinklers work out or not. I really hope they do - aside from the practical aspects, they are wonderful to watch. (Of course, I am seldom up at four a.m., but I see them when I'm adjusting them in the daytime). Thank you again! Laura

Oh Nick, I had my first cicada experience some years ago in Silver City, N.M. When I first heard the "noise" I thought I was having an out of world experience, then my neighbor explained the cicada cycle and from then on it was a rather pleasant, learning experience. At that time I had a wonderful collection of Mums, Iris and veggies. Nothing was touched by these critters, once in a lifetime experience, enjoy!

thanks calpat!
I'm in complete agreement, once I get past the paranoia about the safety of my dahlias, personally I think cicadas are COOL!
In my case I'm old enough that 51 years ago was the year before I was born, I remember them when I was 16, don't remember them 17 years ago but this time around (my third time) I am actually looking forward to it :)

That is the exact position mine are in every year,and they do wonderfully there.The very first Dahlia(dinnerplate) that I ever grew was planted there and I was told it wasn't enough sun.Well it grew over 4 feet tall and bloomed like crazy,it is the perfect spot.

Red Pigmy :http://www.shilohdahlias.com/tubers5.htm
Star's Favorite: http://www.dahliasuppliers.com/accent/gallery/images/Stars%20Favorite_270_jpg.jpg
Firebird : http://www.highdesertdahlias.com/Firebird.htm
Ebony & Ivory is not listed.
Here is a link that might be useful: The Big List


smj0730,
Topping is not necessary. In nature, the plant wouild grow without being pinched back. If you wish to show in a garden competition, then you would want nice tall straight stems, so you wouldn't "top" at all.
However, if you are not showing, and wish more flowers, albeit a little later, then you can pinch back the stem to force it to produce more shoots out the side. This will create a bushier plant. I do this here, as I do not show, but prefer more flowers. So when it gets taller, I pinch back to above several true leaves. We are in a completely different growing zone than you, so I feel confident in doing this here early in the season as the plant is growing. In your zone and if your plant is about 2.5 feet tall, you may have hollow stems already in the lower part of the plant. I don't pinch back that low as I don't want water getting into the hollow stems and rotting the stem / plant.
Pinching back takes place early in the growing season. As I see it, it really is a means of shaping the plant in its early stages to a shape more to your preference. I hope that helps. Other growers may have differing opinions as well.



Zinnias are completely different, although some of the blooms do resemble each other. Zinnias do not ever produce tubers.