3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias


Somebody else on this forum mentioned (and I have passed this tidbit forward myself) that Jobe's Tomato Fertilizer spikes make dahlias grow awesome. Push two into the soil, one on each side of the tuber when you plant out and every two months or so after that. I tried it myself last year and it works like gangbusters. Although there is still no substitute for proper growing conditions.

Hi Trish,
Would this be the same disease as Aster yellows? And, how have you treated your dahlias for leafhopper?
By the way, I still owe you the list of cultivars that I'll be planting this spring! From memory...here's a few - Maarn's Orange, Hy Suntan, Brookside Snowball, Arabian Night, Ted's Choice, Cornell, Superstition.
Hope all is well in Michigan!
Henry

Henry,
We treat with Sevin which is labelled for leafhoppers as well as the dreaded Japanese beetles and earwigs. And, yes. Same virus as Aster yellow.
Regarding your list of dahlias, I need some of those Ted's Choice tubers. Maarn is really nice for cutflowers. And, I like Cornell as well -- although a bit stiff in appearance. So, for that reason, we find that we use more Jessie G. Brookside Snowball is a really nice dahlia in bouquets early in the season. Later in the season, it seems to have too much center showing. So, we've been trialing other white dahlias for cutflowers. I am also curious how your Brookside Snowball tubers have been keeping in storage.
It is freezing here in Michigan thanks to a Canadian airmass I do believe! It is, however, spring in the greenhouses.
Trish


Hi - I have had great luck with starting tubers indoors, despite not exactly optimal light conditions. I even had a bunch sitting under a coffee table receving indirect light (glass top)! When they all finally went outside after risk of frost had passed, they took off nicely, and bloomed like crazy toward mid/end July right until frost. Starting them indoors really gives them a head start - I just wish I had more space - I fear that pretty soon, the dining room and living room will once again look like a crazy woman lives there!
I hope that helps,
Anna

I had great luck with mine last year. The only window I had that wasn't shaded by a tree was east: not optimum either. I started mine on Easter weekend: did the same this year. I set up a card table in front of this window and put the pots on it. Rotated the ones that were closest to the window with the ones in the back every few days.
Then when it was warmer (mid-May?) brought them outside on the deck for more pot growth until regular planting out time in late May. If it looked it was going to be too cold overnight, I pulled them into the house: that happened only twice. The increased light made them bush out quickly. Most had about 6-8 true leaves when they went into the garden. They didn't have that much time to get leggy.

HiNami,
I'm new to this Dahlia stuff too. They are pretty.
I live further south( Pembroke Pines) and planted one bought at walmart ,it is growing and it is in full sun. I went back to walmart this morning and saw they had a bag with purple variety( 4 tubers)( van bourgondien) on sale for $5.00 That was a deal!! So far the first one, is growing really nice big huge deep purple flowers with a yellow center and lots of flowers on the plant, ( the bag said it would be red:-(
If it does not survive the heat here o well, it was not expensive. I think your soil would be better too(loose sand) here I have lots of rocks in sand.
Well hope this helps.
Yinyang

Go to the Dahlia Society of Georgia website and select the menu item 'dahlias that grow well in the South' and then select the heat tolerant dahlias page. All of these dahlias should do well in Central Florida. Also, the growing guide on that same page is for the South so follow it closely. Make sure you mulch your dahlias and water them enough to get them through the heat of the summer and then you should get some good blooms in October and November. You can cut them back in the middle/late August and that will stimulate them to grow well when some cooler weather arrives.
We have a new member in the Georgia Dahlia Society that just moved from the Ocala area where he grew dahlias and I grew them in the San Antonio, Texas area for a few years so they can be grown in these areas.
Go to dahlias.net and then the big list to find where to buy these tubers.
Here is a link that might be useful: Dahlia Society of Georgia

I would think you have a fungus of some type. Are you using a fan for air circulation? Did you sterilize your pots or are you using new pots? I would try some half strength fertilizer to see if you can out grow it. If not I would try a weak fungicide on them. Usually you get powdery mildew but it has to be a fungus if they are not getting burned from the lights.


I bought dahlias off of ebay last year from the guy who sells them in groups. They all came up and were all beautiful! It worked out really well for me last year. This I bought the specific types and colors I wanted.
"Patty Cake" was in the group I won, too. Very pretty.
-Kate

You may have been lucky! The key question is: Does the ground freeze in the winter where I live? If it is an unqualified yes then you are lucky and in a hard winter you may have lost quite a few. If the ground doesn't freeze then just mulch them with 4-6" of something like leaves or pine straw. I talked to a fellow one time that lived in Central Ohio and didn't dig his dahlias but he mulched them with a couple of feet of leaves. So they can stay in the ground if you do it right to prevent them from freezing.
Storing dahlias inside can cause dahlias to shrivel or rot if you don't use proper techniques so you must select one where you can be successful. Check out the Dahlia Society of Georgia web site menu item Dahlias That Grow Well in the South which discusses one and gives a website for another.
Here is a link that might be useful: Dahlia Society of Georgia

Well, it is probably a combination. I'm zone 6 & the last 3 years I have overlooked a few dahlias when digging in the fall, & "knock on wood" :) those have come back. They didn't get mulched, since I didn't intentionally leave them. We occasionally get a winter with temps below 0, but haven't the last few years. We do get below 10 a very few nights though, & still I see them come back. The ones I dig though do better, but that may be because I just left a piece of one. This fall I may just mulch really well & leave them in the ground.

Ah, ingenuity. Glad it works for you, Raul. Aren't the beams more expensive, or not, when all the sawing is done? You have to use what's available to you, that's for sure.
Just for fun, what was your high temperature today, give or take a degree?

Thanks Kristin and plantlady2,
I realize that....it's just like with the people who try to sell roses to unwary newbies. My sister-in-law, who always was a "know-it-all", (but who had never grown a rose before) tried to convince me that there was a "blue" rose. She wouldn't listen to my husband or myself. I think she was very disappointed to find that her blue rose was actually a pale lavender/mauve.
Phyl

What a conundrum. I would go with the plant's already established tendency and plant it "upside down" with the shoot for this year aiming skyward, the old stem downward, providing the shoot has a clear pathway through the tubers. Any other eyes that form and grow should find their way to heat and light from their upside down state.
I hope someone else chimes in. I've killed more bulbs in one lifetime by planting them wrong than should be legally allowed!

Plant them with the new shoot growing upwards- if you plant it down it will try to go up & take longer to get to the surface- they do go for the surface sooner or later but if you have very heavy soil they'll take forever to get there.
Cut off the old stalk as short as you can without damaging the new ones or the tubers. If they're like most bagged tubers that you get at the nursery, there's a lot of broken necks & damaged tubers anyway & you can just prune them off & start with a nice clean, viable tuber with it's new shoot going upwards.


You may want to ask the people in both of the large dahlia groups. Garden web will strip the subscription information, so please send me an email and I will send you the information.
-Aaron
Webmaster of Dahliasuppliers.com
providing you sources of wonderful dahlia tubers from Mingus Dahlias and Accent Dahlias.
Here is a link that might be useful: Dahliasuppliers.com


Thanks guys for the advice. Sounds really easy , I'm so glad no pruning back like roses. How about when it gets really cold :-) like in the 40's Do I have to cover them up or will they be just bulbs in the ground with no plant and leaves??
Thanks
Nothing bad is going to happen to them in the ground.
Dahlias are native to Mexico ( Mexico´s national flower ), more specifically, they are native to the Altiplano ( the platteau that forms the central portion of the country between the Sierra Madre Occidental ( part of the Rocky Mountains ) and the Sierra Madre Oriental ( along the Gulf of Mexico ) ), I live in central Mexico so I´m in the exact geographic area origin of dahlias, I leave mine in the ground year long plant or no plant, I even plant other things on top of the tubers to cover the bed with color, so not even regular watering for the other plants has had a negative effect on the tubers resting dormant in the flowerbed.