3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
We get it at Whatcom Farmer's Co-op- or Cenex. It's a plastic twine similar to baling twine but not as thick. It doesn't stretch like sisal twine does.
You can order it from A.E. Leonard a supply outfit that's on the net-- but I just Googled them & their site is down tonight. It's more expensive there than from Cenex-- how much do you need? If you can't find it in OR, maybe we could get you some & ship it to you by UPS or something. I think it's about $9.00 or so a roll at Cenex- sometimes less if on sale. Walt reuses it from one year to the next & it seems to be good for a two or three years if you don't get it too tangled when you remove it.
The posts are 6' med. weight metal fencing posts- about one foot is thumped into the ground. The first cross piece is 4" above the ground & from there on they are 8" apart up the post making 5 cross pieces on each post. The cross pieces are about 6" long & the holes that the twine goes through are about 1/2" from either end of the posts.
Does this cover what you need to know??
Thanks plantlady, that's exactly the information I was looking for. There are a number of Christmas tree growers in our region, so I'll keep looking for the twine. We're new at growing dahlias, but have put in a bed with a couple of long rows, and your system looks like it would be a great way to support them.
plantlady2,
Thank you, thank you, thank you......now I know I am doing the right thing. Of course now I will have even more of this one variety....:O I hope my new ones grow like this too. Its better to have to many than none right. LOL!
This will also give me the oportunity to practice dividing tubers without worrying about losing the variety altogether.
Sierra
Thanks! I will do that. More to share too. There are about three that I can see but they are pretty tiny, about 1/8"long each. Do you think a piece of stem could produce shoots bit enough for cuttings?Guess I will wait, somewhat patiently. I read the tutorial in the (Colorado, American?) dahlia society about taking cuttings from the tubers so I am more or less primed for it.
Thanks again
Yes, esp. if as you say it has some "meat" to it. A friend of ours always keeps about 6" of stem on some of his hard to keep dahlias & claims that's the only way he can keep them over the winter - then he does cuttings from the shoots that come off of the stem.
I still have not done the ones still in the refrigerator! Since I'm out of pots, I thought of spreading out potting mix in a shallow tray, laying them out, then watering just to get them to sprout a bit before planting out in about 2 weeks. Would this work? I've heard of the baggie trick too, but think I could be neater in a tray. This has to go where my DH will see it, and he complains about messy things.
I do have space on top of the frig in the garage: will the warmth really help them to sprout?
Last fall was my first time dividing, and I could not see any eyes. So I imagine lots of my divisions are eyeless and useless.
Linnea, you could do the tray, but if you're unsure on eyes on your divisions, I'm swearing by the baggie thing. Tubers I was ready to give up on for good have sprouted in their little plastic greenhouses. I find I prefer good potting soil in the bags as opposed to one with lots of peat- soil stays damper longer. I am also finding that I have to add moisture every couple days because those babies are cooking in south windows and the soil dries out quickly.
Just try a couple for a little dahlia experiment. Hands down, it's the best dahlia thing I've learned in recent memory. If your husband wants neat, you could neatly line a boot box or shoe box (or ten) with baggies in a bright window. Heat from a refrigerator would likely help. I like to give them light though too. Nothing like sunshine.... which is outside now and therefore I return to digging.
You can tell by my name, I'm not a grower - enabler of an addicted one though.
Just a money saving hint - you don't have to have grow lights - my husband does 100s of tubers/cuttings, etc., using just plain old fluorescent bulbs in cheap shop light fixtures.
The "white shoots" on the ones you just bought will be green shoots when you plant them & they start to grow-- these are your "eyes" ... but farther along. You can either plant the tuber deep enough to just allow a bit of the shoot to be above ground or you can plant the tuber in a pot & grow it until the shoot greens up & take a cutting & have another plant from it.
Thanks for clarifying that Jroot. Makes good sense for longer tubers. Have you ever tried cutting the longer ones off a bit? My head was in the earth and not thinking about planting in pots, although I am doing that RIGHT NOW (yippee) for the first time myself.
thanks for the prompt reply i'll follow your directions and keep my fingers crossed. i've noticed that the bugs are only eating the dahlia's. the haven't touched the gerbers, petunias, pansy's or the clematis. i'm using bug be gone but it doesn't seem to help. is there anything you recommend for protecting the dahlia's? we've only been in east tennessee a little over a year (new england transplants) and we are absolutly loving it. all the trees are leafed out, the grass is green and the azealia's are in full bloom. life is good...thanks again for your help
I'll try to answer your questions, as asked:
1. I do set my dahlias on some soil under lights to get them going. Some of them take several weeks to begin to sprout, others a few days.
2. As I said before, I do place my dahlias on to a bed of nice growing compound. I do lightly cover them, but don't bury them.
3. I think it is the heat and light that brings out the sprouts. The moisture of the growing compound definitely helps too. I keep this growing compount moist, but not wet, and thus it needs attention on a daily basis.
4. I do put a plastic cover over the container. Sometimes a plastic top which lets the light through, and sometimes a clear plastic bag.
5. I would let the tubers sprout some, and then you can separate if you feel confident. I would be tempted to gain some growing confidence before trying sprout cuttings.
I hope this helps.