3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
I agree with plantlady2 about the necessity of dividing in the spring if the tubers are not already divided. Actually, I find it easier to see the eyes in the spring. One can readily see which ones will sprout for you, and can discard those that probably won't do anything at all.
That being said, I still try to divide in the fall as best as I can ( my old eyes have trouble seeing eyes in the fall), but those in double get bundled together in the recycled grocery store bags.
(((((Jo))))))
Imagine finding you over here:)
Oh I don't know how to tend my Dahlias, so I thought I would pop over here & see if I can get help,
They are huge & drying out, I need to know what to do with them, how long have you had yours? How do you take care of them for the winter? I have read saran wrap, moist peat moss, I have no clue, but I better get a clue QUICK!!!!!!!
Hug's:)Anita
Redhawk woman: let's say I was going to get berries in Carnation coming from the Fall City bridge. Would I see your dahlias on the river side of the highway not too far East from my berry turnoff? Because if that is your garden, I want you to know how insanely jealous I was driving by in early July and seeing many blooms this year.
Poochella in Preston
Although the tubers that develop can be left in the ground where winters are milder, for me they have to be treated as an annual since freezing temps of the soil will destroy any tubers left in the ground. Small tubers do develop on the seed grown types which like any other in colder climates will require digging before winter.
I try to dig only as many dahlias as I can handle in one day. I dig, divide, add a fungicide, wrap and store within a few hours all in that day. You can let them dry overnight if you wish but I wouldn't advocate it and don't see any advantage to do so.
... and Bernie is one of our resident experts.
If I can do it in one day, I'll do so. If I have to wait until the next morning, after a night of drying, the next morning I will add the fungicide, wrap and store.
I had a friend who "did me a favour" and gave me a dahlia tuber ( like coals to Newcastle LOL), and let it dry for a week, cut off the neck ( and the eyes) and presented me with a nicely withered tuber not wrapped or anything. It is on the compost pile now. In return, I gave her a tuber with an eye, quickly dried, fungicided, and saran wrapped, along with a nice friendly smile. Of course, many questions persued. LOL That is how we learn.
Wait! I was so smitten with Honka photos I forgot your questions LOL, sorry. Mine is ~3.5 ft tall and when did it begin blooming? Well, I would guess early August. This year, I was not able to plant many tubers until mid or even late May or June in some cases, so about 80 days.
And here is an early single version of Honka. I love it, except for that loathesome bug in the 10 o'clock petal!
Aaah!! That last closeup captures the orange centre nicely. Okay so mine made it to full height but didn't get enough time to develop more buds. The tubers were in a small pot until July when I finally put them in the ground.
Sharon
I feel the less air that gets to the tubers, the better. Some of those packing peanuts are rather large and would allow a lot of air in the box.
Guess I prefer the saran wrap method.
This am it was 38 degrees as I dug and washed tubers. Then it was into the garage to divide and lay out to dry. They probably would have dried outside but drying would be slow at those temps.
Dig whenever you want, the tubers don't seem to care. I'm halfway done now and the coldest it's been was a brief overnight dip to 32 degrees- no frost, otherwise generally in the 40's or 50's.
I would be more cautious or discourage pulling on the stems for anything but the final lifting of the clump out of the ground ESPECIALLY if it's wet. That heavy/moist soil and torque coming out of the ground can easily break your tubers. See the link for sound digging advice and photos and follow them.
Note the line where it says "Eyes begin to swell quickly, typically within 4 to 8 days after the plant is destroyed by frost or **being cut down**..." That's why I don't wait for a frost, I could be waiting a long time. To me, the whacking of the plant is what shocks it into survival mode; just like a killing frost would. By not waiting for a frost, I find tuber digging and dividing more palatable now than in 30 degrees and soaking wet, and I still get the benefit of visible eyes by tubers trying their best to survive.
Good luck. Be gentle!
Here is a link that might be useful: digging dahlias
Paul,
I visited a dahlia farm this year and the owner told me you have to keep and watch dahlias for something like 3-4 years to make sure EVERY FLOWER is always the same. Then they are called show dahlias and you can enter them in shows. I thought I was confused about some of mine because I would take a picture of a bloom and the next picture I would take was different. I thought I was getting the names confused.
Shirley
I have been lurking around here for several months and posted a question once or twice. I said all that to say this; I have seen several references to "saran wrap" and wondered if anyone had tried Glad Press and Seal. I never cared for Saran Wrap but I came into some Press and Seal and its performance for other uses is quite superior. Perhaps it would be better for dahlias too.
Vmarcos, the vermiculite is in a gallon ziploc with about 1/3 - 1/2 cup sulphur powder added so you have some substance to help spread out the sulphur so it isn't caked on. I'd guess 4 Cups vermiculite, add more if needed. Add more sulphur if after rolling, gently shaking or topsy-turvying a group of tubers a few times only a light coating of yellow dust is seen on tubers. You want it fairly evenly spread but not caked on- that would just be overkill. My rule of thumb is: if I can read the No Blot ink letters easily, I need to add more sulphur. Usually just a few turns and gentle shakes and they'll be dusted well.
There is a great photo montage of Bernie's Saran Wrap method here somewhere. You can wrap several tubers in one long sheet of wrap (I actually like different brands than Saran)just completely enclose one in a roll before adding in another tuber. Keep wrap between all tuber surfaces, in other words. Some big honkers you might have to wrap singly, or lengthwise due to their size. I have had to double wrap some to make sure the ends were covered: one sheet one way, another sheet the other way; Tape edges pretty well, label if you want and away they go.
Let us know how the eye pencil works. You'll have the prettiest tubers in town!
To see photos of the Saran wrap sequence google "No Fuss Method"
Are these seeds from Wayne Holland? I got clarion seeds mixed with others from him a couple of years ago including from scented plants. I have been growing them ever since. They are a lot of fun. You never know what you will get. You will find the character of the flower will change a little as the plant matures, the weather cools, water and fertilizer, etc. Also, they change year to year. If you save the tubers, you will get earlier flowers next year.
Nope, didn't get to see it. The bud did open a bit more, but tht's it. Poochella's photos are pretty doggone good, so I'll live vicariously thru hers. There is always next year, there is always next year, there is always next year...
The little white tips on the petals are so striking. What a beauty.