3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias

If you don't need to worry about freezing, then you can dig up, separate, and replant. Up in the northern area, we have to dig up and keep up until spring, hence the wintering process inside.....a lot more work than you have to do.
Avoiding vandalism is another question entirely, and not one that I have to worry about here. I would be tempted to build a little artistic fence around it, which would serve two purposes, 1) anti theft deterent 2) something for the dahlia to lean against, and it might actually look rather classy, depending on the fence you choose.

Thanks, Jroot! Glad I don't have to worry about being weird and just moving them. :)
I've been wondering if it's legal to place wires with a mild electrical surge running through it. Probably not, even with a sign that says, "Warning, do not touch, high wattage!" I'll look into that fence.

Bonus! You certainly can pinch the sprouts off. The bonus is that you can see readily where the eye is, and can do your separating now. Sometimes, it is next to impossible to see where the eye is, and one has to wait until spring when one starts them up.
Not all tubers have eyes, and so you can readily see which are the best ones to keep.
Here is a link that might be useful: tubers with an eye


I live in Ks and love to grow dahlias. I usually plant in late April or early May, depending on the weather. I dig after the first frost, which will be soon. If I have time after they're dug,I get the soil ready for next year. Did in plenty of compost and a good sized handful of bone meal. I use large tomato cages to hold them up in our Ks wind, and sometimes have to put in an extra stake at that.


We use the cardboard cartons because they are shallow & when you are starting the tubers you just lay them on their side on the soil then barely cover all but the eye end with soil. The eye end gets left out of the soil- so they're lying there with their heads out & their bottoms under about 1/4- 1/2" of soil. I think the plastic & the coffee cans would be too tall- you could cut the plastic ones down to about 4" though.

I find that tubers are more variety-based on how they will behave than soil-based. Some are just small globules gnarled together, some are long, lean perfectly behaved tubers with separate necks; some are monster tubers big enough to serve a family of four.
I never fear that I will add too much compost or organic material to my garden, however. It helps in so many ways. And it smells good! Makes the soil easier to work, easier to dig, and I think easier to water.

Are those "little white warts" the eyes of the tuber? Are they near the stem? If so, they very well may be the eyes of the tuber which are next year's growth spots.
That being said, the tubers from last year will be old and withered, and beside that old tuber ( if it still exists at all) will be the young tubers which will give next year's plants.
Do your research before you pull off more "little white warts".
If you decide that they are diseased, do not store them with your healthy tubers, but discard them. Don't even compost them if your composter does not get hot.

Well, they're not eyes (that's for sure) The eyes I notice are more up at the top of the tuber. These little things are all over the body of the tuber. They're kind of fleshy feeling.
I wrapped these ones up separately just in case they are infected with something. Never know what I'm going to find in the spring. :)


Names, we need names...pleeeese, whine, whine. I want them all. I love the far left one in the top photo, no- the 2nd from the right, no- the big bright ones in the bottom photo, no-wait....
Lovely photos, thanks for sharing with us.


"Ruthann" is in the foreground and that is "Summer Night" behind her. Summer Night bloomed like crazy by the end of Summer. Its dark color makes the other dahlia colors in an arrangement pop right out. I started cutting stalks last week and began digging yesterday. In my experience, I've found that by cutting the stalks and then waiting several days before digging, it is easier to see the eyes. Sunday night was our first hard frost.

Good advice, Jroot. Over the years, my wife and I have tried just about every storage medium and every possible way to store our tubers with varying degrees of success. Now, we dig, wash, divide, apply a fungicide and store in plastic wrap all in one day. Since we plant over 400 dahlias, it takes us about 10 days. Our tubers emerge in the spring as firm as the were when we stored them and our success rate is near 100%.

Oooch....I'm thinking I may have screwed up. Good thing I gave a friend of mine some of my tubers this spring so I can at least get some back and replant in the spring. Now that I know THIS tid bit....I know to get them stored more quick like :(
Thank you for the tip!
Nikki~

There are many different types of dahlia, and many different sizes. Some of the smaller ones would be ideal for patio gardening. I have actually used some of the 4 foot dahlias in large pots as well for a spectacular show.
Here are some contacts for you to explore
Vancouver Dahlia Society:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vandahlia/
http://dir.gardenweb.com/directory/vds/
Canadian dahlia information
http://www.members.shaw.ca/hydahlia/

Yes, there are conflicting articles about how to save your tubers over the winter. Without going into all of the articles ( which would be too confusing to most, as well as too time consuming), we can only say what works for us.
Check out the link below. There are a lot of ideas about saving the tubers, and also separating the tubers, as well as getting them started in the spring.
Here is a link that might be useful: splitting and storing of tubers.


Thanx everybody - I'm paying attention and learning - as I know lots of others will do all winter. Method and classification clarification is truly appreciated, are names and your photos. I will definitely disbud and cut earlier. Keep that bountiful-boofy-bloom info coming!
These are some dahlias that should meet your requirements. I would highly recommend any and all of them.
This is my favorite of all dahlias that I grow and dates back to 1940.

Kidd's Climax
This is a big, beautiful Orange.

Clyde's Choice
The next two are pinks or lavenders. Both are very showy.
Elma Elizabeth
This is a sport of Kidd's Climax introduced by a hybridizer named Almand.

Almand Joy
The following dahlias are two of the most outstanding Reds.

Kenora Wildfire
Zorro

Of course there are many, many other large dahlias that meet your needs but this can give you some idea of what you can expect.