3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias

I have been very happy with the sulfur/saran wrap method for the past few years. After dividing, the tubers are tossed in a baggie with garden sulfur and then wrapped individually in saran wrap. Stored in a cool dark place. Last year with over 200 tubers, I lost 3-4 to rot, and none dried up.
It takes a little time, but it works.

I have heard of some tubers surviving the winter in that zone when planted right next to the house with a southern exposure and a mild winter, but that is a rare exception.
Most of us in the colder climates dig our tubers after first frost, and store inside until spring. Others just treat them as annuals, and buy new ones at local club auctions every spring.
There are 'hardy gladiolus,' which never seem to grow for me in zone 5... Perhaps that is what you saw in a catalog and confused for dahlias.
Here is a link that might be useful: Fundamentals of Growing Dahlias, ADS

Hi Liza
How do all of your 'offspring' have eyes?
When I dig up tubers and find clumps of anywhere from 6-14 tubers, many are just 'suckers' that hang off the main tuber and have no 'heads or eyes'.
Am I throwing out good tubers? I have sometimes laid them aside or partially planted them in soil to see if an eye develops and they never do. I always thought they were just 'hangers-on'.
David

I'm in the exact same boat, Jacque! Very frustrated that all of the numerous home remedies failed, and really didn't want to resort to commercial sprays.
Next year, I will start spraying fungicides nice and early before the dratted powdery mildew takes over. The spores are probably all over the soil surfaces from this season, and after digging will be all through it. I doubt treating the tubers will do anything to slow the PM.
Dr. Hammett, an experienced grower from New Zealand, recently wrote this...
"By the time you "see"powdery mildew on the upper surface of leaves you already have a massive infection that is difficult to control. Infection starts on the underside of leaves and goes unnoticed. MBC is the best replacement for Benlate. It is sold in New Zealand as Carbendazim. It is systemic. Spray long before you expect to see infection, so that the pathogen does not get a toe hold."

If they did not grow at all, they are dead. If there is any green growth at all, they can be dug and stored whole in a plastic bag or preferably a gallon sized pot with some soil. Do not attempt to divide them. You would probably be better advised to just buy new tubers next year.


Thanks both for the follow up!
The tubers were all purchased from Dan's Dahlias. I've never had an issue with growing from there before. The only difference this year is that I made a box to place in my yard- it gave them a couple add'l hours of sun each day. I had no slug troubles, and being in the city I don't have to deal with deer.
As for the repeat blooms, not one single plant had add'l blooms after the first 1-3 flowers died off. BUT, new buds formed and eventually blackened- just the buds, no surrounding leaves on the plant.
I'll see if I can get a decent pic, but my plants took heavy damage recently from the outrageous rains we received recently

Look something like this?
I've noticed a dozen or so blackened buds in the last week. Not sure why, but it is not a problem at all for me, as there are many MANY more buds that are just fine.
So sorry that is happening to you! Perhaps extreme weather shift? I have no words of wisdom for a solution to this problem.


Here's a really gorgeous large dahlia (Formby Kaitlyn) that opened up a few days ago. The picture doesn't fully do it justice. It has that iridescent purple sheen that is nearly impossible to capture in photos. (I'm holding it in my hand for scale.)


Nice seeing your formby Kaitlyn, Steve. That's one that I was hoping to see in my garden, but only obtained eighteen inches before disappearing under other more vigourous varieties. With luck, I'll have a couple tubers for next year's attempt.
Caribbean Fantasy seems a contradiction into itself, with the white, yellow and pink folding back into itself. Glad it did well for you, Mytime.
Here's one that recently opened for me, that I've been hearing about from dahlia friends for the last two years... Show & Tell. Well worth the wait, it is absolutely magnificent! Oh, and so is the Praying Mantis.


I have noticed over the years that you can give plants with too much of a good thing. Specifically, people put lots of soil amendments like compost, mushroom compost, manures of all kinds and lots of other sources of organic material, perhaps alfalfa pellets, bone meal, and a myriad of other items. Then they wonder why their plants do not do well. As a human being if I ate a 100 pounds of food at one sitting, I would not feel well either. Plants want nutrients but in regular small doses. When too much organic material is put on a garden all at once, the plants are competing with the bacteria in the soil that are digesting the compost. It seems that the micro organisms win and the plants look sickly. If you have added too much of the above onto your garden this year, it is good to know that your garden will do great next year when the soil organisms are done digesting. Another example is trying to plant a garden where the manure pile was during the winter. One would think the garden will do good there but it will not. But the next year that area will be the best in your garden.


>> I'd give it another year and if it still underproduces,
>> you can shovel prune it next year.
Well, too late for that. I dug it up yesterday and destroyed it. I didn't want to risk transferring disease to the rest of my collection. Back when I only had a handful of cultivars I might have tried to nurse it along but now I've got around 85 different cultivars and I'm becoming more ruthless with discarding under performers. I'm also starting to eliminate cultivars that can't take the heat here in Virginia. Some of these might perform just fine in a cooler moist climate but here they just blow out their centers and are useless.
For the record, I've been pleased with Swan Island and will not ask for a replacement for Ripples. They already sent me a replacement for a Mary Munns tuber that failed to sprout.

" I didn't want to risk transferring disease to the rest of my collection." Most dahlias have virus of one kind or another. And people are infected with very many viruses that exhibit no symptoms too. Yes, that virus makes Ripples not grow very well. That same virus is probably infecting several of your other varieties but they exhibit no symptoms.

Lin, I have heard varying amounts, as well. After comparing different recommended amounts, I ended up both foliar-feeding and applying to the soil directly at different times.
With Foliar feed, I used two tablespoons dissolved in a cup of hot water, and added to a two- gallon sprayer.
On several separate occasions, I sprinkled 1-2 tablespoons directly to the top of the soil around each stalk and tuber.
Every method showed better-looking leaves in about ten days. Many plants that showed virus sign ended up looking great, while a few didn't seem to improve. Those need pulled.


Do moose munch on dahlias? I couldn't imagine an effective deterrent for them, as I understand they habitually like to squash dogs that bark at them.
It makes sense you not wanting to meet a massive wall of muscle and antler in the dark, or a grizzly for that matter, though I would have been tempted, with dahlia craze still blazing...
The moose don't eat the dahlias, but they tromp all over them (and the iris and lilies) on the way to the delicacies they love...almost everything else in the garden.
All my tubers are now dug and stored, so I can move on to cleaning up the yard/garden for winter.