3,226 Garden Web Discussions | Dahlias
A quick response....
Height could be all of the above: variety, sun, soil, water ect. 'Dinnerplates' is a category of dahlia, not a specific variety and they will all grow differently, bloom at differenet times, grow faster/slower ect....
You should plant them at least 1/2 of their height apart so a 4' dahlia should be planted at least 2 feet away from their 'neighbor'. I would just keep them where they are this season as long as they are 12" apart, if not, I would dig them up, as big as tuber-ball you can and water them well before and after the move.
I pinch mine all season. I pinch early to promote branching and stocky plants and later to promote larger blooms. So you can pinch anytime, but too much pinching will delay buds if you do not pinch properly. Search this forum for pinching tips, there are many great threads on here relating to that.
I hope that helps
No need to worry, they are tough and you will get a great show even though you are a bit late starting them.
Keriann~
Oops. Sorry. It's called "Florida Tomato Weave."
Here is a link that might be useful: Florida Weave
I got my 130 into the ground last week too. I pre-start them in gallon pots so most were a good foot or more tall, except some I got later in the springtime. I even ended up with enough space to pop in the ones that I rescued from the big winter freeze but lost the names to, so I hope I hsve some nice surprise visits from "old friends". Already have blooms on Ebony Witch and Star Child. They go into my personal garden where I grow the ones that I do not cut.
No, no harm from not separating them because they are so young.
We divide them to get more plants, share with others, keep their tuber mass managable to handle and to keep them blooming. When they get big (5-10+eyes) they tend to fizzle out on blooming and become sad because they have no room to grow.
Congrats on your new dahlias!
Keriann~
PS: dont forget to stake them, or mark were you can stake them, so you do not pierce a tuber later.
Roots are pretty brittle when they are dry, so it helps to water any plant before you move them.
Watering afterword to get all the air pocket outs and reduce stress on the plant.
So, yes I am sure. But every yard is different and watering needs could vary a bit.
Keriann~
What is their guarantee? Most places only guarantee their tubers to grow the first season. You might be out of luck if they didn't come back after your overwintering them. It doesn't hurt to give them a call and see what they say. You could also gently dig a couple of them up and see if anything is going on. Maybe they're just late to sprout. I have a few I'm still waiting on.
I had the same thing happen.
We had about 2 weeks of rain and one of mine did the same thing. I pinched out the yuck-ness and have been keeping an eye on it. I dont want to pinch too far down to encourage rot in the hollow stem or disease in the stem.
It is sending out new baby leaves now, I think it will recover with some sun and less rain!
Keriann~
Grass clippings could add organic matter to the soil, work as a light fertilizer and retain moisture. Make sure there are no seeds in it, let it wilt, apply a thin layer. Grass cuttings can start to foul/putrefy if in a thick layer or when too wet. And keep a distance from the Dahlia stems.
Then it could work. I used it often between annuals or lettuce, always keeping an eye on slugs.
Cheers, Lin
In Portland one of our all time successful growers used lawn clippings between his dahlia rows. He got grass clippings from several neighbors who had not used any weed killer on their lawns. He alternated each year and planted in the rows where the clippings were used the year before. Since grass clippings are full nitrogen, he did not use much fertilizer. He died at the age of 95 or so a couple of years ago.
Hormone treatment was used in the greenhouses where the plants were forced. Also, it is usually best to purchase dahlia plants which were locally grown in your area, and not shipped in. Soil is always important. Go to a local greenhouse and ask if you can purchase Fafard perennial mix, or a similar blend. Miracle Gro is not a good choice. We have a local source for perennial mix which is considered "green." They recycle pine bark, leaf mulch, with less than 30% peat moss. The microbes in this soil is very high. We don't start fertilizing until the plant is beginning to bloom. One should be fertilizing the potted dahlias which are in bloom with a fertilizer low in nitrogen. There is one called "Blossom Booster. The ratio is something like this: 10-45-20. A good tomato fertilizer works as well. The key is weekly, weakly. Growers have also had great sucess using a green tea fertilizer.
Best growing to you; and, welcome to the world of dahlias. It is an addiction!!
Always bump up the plants. I gallon pot is too small. For your larger blooming dahlias, use a large size patio pot. I would recommend using a nice decorative pot for the smaller blooming dahlias with at least a five gallon size. This way, the plants do not become root bound and use up all the available nutrients in the soil.
Many years ago while living in Wisconsin I, too, grew Dahlias. It was a heart breaking experience. Every time I thought I was safe to put my Dahlias in the ground, the Wisconsin weather had a surprise for me!!!
In 2007 we moved to southern Missouri. With just two months of mild winter weather, I'm ready to start gardening in March and can expect things to bloom into December. Some pansies bloom all winter long, even if we get a light snow.
I've started a Dahlia bed from seed, sowing directly into the ground in early May. I've also planted some "ready to grow" tubers in my beds out front. I'm pleased to say my seedlings are about six inches tall and doing well. I'll need to transplant some to thin out the pack.
At almost 69, gardening is not as easy as it used to be. I keep a cushion, and sit on an overturned bucket whenever I can. And with temps in the 80s for weeks already I do things a little at a time.
In the end, it's all worth it.
Here is a link that might be useful: My Garden Folder on Facebook
One of the things we might consider when using inverted tomato cages. Rather than bending the surplus legs to make tie down why no pick up a few plastic tent pegs and use them. At seasons end simply place them in a plastic grocery bag and store till next year, If you attach the metal ends permanently they will get in your way when nesting the cages for storage.. Another great idea from OSCARS LAB. Steve S.
I bend the surplus legs like J's not g's, so they come off and can be stored in the same way that Steve S describes. I have found that home depot or Lowe's tomato cages stack well. We stack them and store them in the woods. If they stay outside all spring, summer, and fall, why not have them stay outside all winter too.
I'm probably wrong too--but I've always heard that Aphids to Ants, are like milk cows to us. That they exude a milky substance that Ants relish, I've even hears that they "place " them on certain flowers.
Correct me, if I'm wrong?