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curtis0353

pH Testing Results

curtis0353
15 years ago

I am a fairly new grower of African violets and I currently have a collection of approximately 50 violets that I wick water on a lighted plant stand under four-foot 40 watt fluorescent shop lights. My potting mix consists of approximately equal parts of sphagnum peat, coarse vermiculite, and perlite. I have not been totally happy with my success, and have been dealing with plant symptoms that include slow growth, limited blooms, and tight and pale colored centers. Reading from African violet books and forum threads that these symptoms may be caused by too much fertilizer, too much light, spider mites, or pH issues, I have tried to identify my specific problem. I have tried reducing the amount of fertilizer that I use and experimented with decreasing the amount of light intensity, but this has not corrected the problem. I purchased 10X, 20X and 30X loupes to closely examine for microscopic mites and that does not seem to be the problem either. Recently I purchased a pH meter and today did some testing to see if potting mixture pH may be the culprit. I have read that the potting mixtures for African violets should be in the range of 6.5-6.9. Although I am not a chemist and the pH tests that I conducted were not done in a laboratory under exact scientific conditions I still wanted to share my results.

My pH meter was calibrated by the manufacturer and is supposed to have an accuracy of + or 0.07 with a resolution of 0.01. Between testing each sample I rinsed the pH probe in distilled water as was recommended. I tested the potting mix in 10 of my AV plant pots, five that were potted in the last week, recently potted (RP), and five that were potted 4-5 months ago, not recently potted (NRP), to see if there was a significant difference in the pH of the mixture that had been in the pots for a longer period of time. I also tested my water source straight from the faucet, my water after adding a pH stabilizer, my fertilizer, a sample of the algae control that I use, and my water again once all these various ingredients had been added. I also tested the individual components of the potting mix that I use and then tested their pH once they were combined.

These are my findings;

10 Potiing Mixture Samples

RP1 = 5.0 pH

RP2 = 4.92 pH

RP3= 4.86 pH

RP4= 4.80 pH

RP5= 4.87 pH

NRP1= 4.68 pH

NRP2= 4.51 pH

NRP3= 4.82 pH

NRP4= 5.06 pH

NRP5= 4.33 pH

My findings revealed that the not recently potted (NRP) plant mix samples on average were slightly more acidic (4.68 pH), than the average of the mixture in the recently potted (RP) plants, which averaged a pH of 4.89.

Water and Ingredients

Water from my faucet = 5.62 pH

Gallon of Water + 1 tsp of WardleyÂs Wellness Bullseye 7.0 = 6.57 pH

Fertilizer (14-12-14) = 2.51 pH

Gallon of Water + 1 tsp Bullseye + ¼ tsp Fertilizer = 6.39 pH

Physan 20 = 7.55 pH

Gallon of Water + 1 tsp Bullseye 7.0 + ¼ tsp Fertilizer + ½ tsp Physan 20 = 6.45 pH

Potting Mixture Ingredients

1 cup Sphagnum Peat + 2 Tbs of distilled water = 3.66 pH

1 cup Perlite + 2 Tbs of distilled water = 8.02 pH

1 cup Vermiculite (coarse) + 2 Tbs of distilled water = 9.34 pH

Potting ingredients mixed together and combined with distilled water = 4.12 pH

(Distilled water was added to the dry mix ingredients to make a more consistent mix)

From my experiments, I now believe that my problem is probably directly related to potting mix pH and specifically to the acidic Sphagnum Peat (3.66 pH) that I am currently using. I now plan to do some additional pH testing to see how much dolomite lime should be added to my potting mix to bring the pH into the 6.5-6.9 range. If anyone has any suggestions regarding what amounts of lime to use, or other suggestions, I would greatly appreciate hearing from you. If your African violets are displaying similar symptoms to what I have described above maybe the information that I have provided will be of some benefit.

Thanks!

Curtis

Comments (6)

  • korina
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow. Curtis, I'm impressed with your methodical and thorough data collection.

    I have the same problem, different end. My pH is too high; from the faucet, a nice neutral 7.0. Worse, no soil to moderate it; everything is semi-hydro.

    As for correcting your pH, keep doing what you're doing; experiment.

    Oh, and a hopeful note; they *can* grow out of it, given time.

    Good luck,

    Korina

  • bspofford
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Curtis,

    I too am impressed. My one thought is the water. Are you going to always water your plants with distilled water? If not, you might want to use your tap water as the water in your study. As your table indicated, your tap water has a higher ph, and this would affect your results.

    Great experiment, and something we all probably tend to forget, I know I do, and I think some of my plants also are suffering the same malady as yours. I look forward to your results.

    Barbara

  • bspofford
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Also, please tell me about your ph meter. I've been considering one, and am told I should avoid the inexpensive one that is less than 10 bucks, and registers the same ph for everything. On the other hand, I don't need overkill.

    Thanks,

    Barbara

  • curtis0353
    Original Author
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Barbara,

    Here is a link to the pH meter that I use.

    Curtis

    http://www.pro-measure.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=PH-212

  • irina_co
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Curtis - you are GREAT. You nailed your problem - and you are fixing it. Just add a teaspoon of dolomite per quart of your regular wet mix, let it sit for some time, test. You need more - add more.

    There is more into it than just adding and subtracting - and the water is very important too, and some fertilizers are acid or alkaline etc. When you get your mix right - you need to maintain your soil in the same Ph range - and it will be getting acid just because a peat moss is breaking apart. So - the next thing you do - you leach your plants once a month with a lukewarm water, or even with distilled water if you wish. It takes some of the acid out. But still since you are a perfectionist ;-)) - you can right a date of repotting on your name tags - and as soon as 6 months are out (4 moths for minis and semi-minis)- you repot the plants into the fresh mix. And as I mentioned earlier - it is good idea to have some of the coarse dolomite added to the soil to work slowly. Powder dolomite works fast - and then it is gone, coarse will continue fighting with the humic acid as soon as it comes from the breaking peat moss.

    You can purchase some soil from specialized places - Cape Cod was mentioned before - just for comparison. Couple of ladies from our club were running an experiment - they ordered small packages of AV soil mix from different places - and tried to grow starters in it. Guess what - Optimaras grow better in Optimara mix and so on and so forth. So there is no such thing that the perfect mix. basic Cornell mix 1:1:1 works very much OK - but depending on the conditions - some put put more vermiculite and less perlite. I started putting just a bit of worm castings in the mix, bone meal and tomato fertilizer - and you know - doesn't hurt. They love it - provided that I put just a bit - and keep my fertilizer in the wicking water on the 1/8 of the teaspoon per gallon. If you give them a drink of a weak fish emulsion every so often - also works.

    I read people tried foliar feeding for AVs - and the results are inconclusive. Not that it gives them a huge boost.

    My best

    Irina

  • irina_co
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Aha -

    6 cubic feet of peat need 800g dolomite lime. So - 5 gallon bucket of your 1:1:1 soil mix will contains 1/3 of a peatmoss - so it should take about 40g of limestone - which should be 2 tablespoons with a heap of dolomite lime.

    Irina

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