|
Follow-Up Postings:
|
| Goodness. You've given us quite an assignment. I don't know all of them, but I'll tell you the ones I can and let others chime in on the rest (or to correct my guesses). I'll try to keep track of them by the order of the pictures. 1. Yaupon holly I've run out of time, so hope someone else will check these and fill in the blanks. A general comment: You've got some nice flowering things, but with the foundation shrubs, if you're not going to hire someone to maintain them, be prepared to do a LOT of pruning. Personally, I'd start replacing a lot of the shrubs with things that will be easier to maintain. When you get all these identified, you can start a new post asking for suggestions on changes to make. |
|
| We might have to see different images of some of these to be sure. Here are my guess-timations: 1. Japanese holly but not sure which one |
|
| I agree with rhizo's additions/changes. My brain was too tired to come up with things like Euonymus and Cleyera, neither of which I have. ;-) I also wondered if 2 might be a gardenia and whether it might have sooty mold. Close-up pictures would help. Also, look at the undersides of the dark leaves and see if there are tiny insects covering them. That's what usually gives rise to sooty mold. I also debated about the mondo vs liriope and agree that it's probably mondo, which I like much better. Re the crepe/crape [either is acceptable] myrtle, it's hard to tell from the picture but if the bark is as cinnamon colored as it appears it might look OK in the winter. I'd let it bloom before deciding what to do about it. They should have removed the middle trunk years ago and left one that wasn't so cramped and overlapping. There's not much way to fix that now, but the appearance would be improved by proper pruning to remove branches that grow into the center across other trunks and the ones that grow at right angles out to the sides of the tree instead of following the upward vase shape of the others. You might want to search for some of these plants on the internet to see pictures and descriptions. You'll find a lot of information on gardenweb, but I usually search on Dave's Garden to get detailed info and pictures. [Gardenweb's new anti spam software won't let me post the link to the other site, but just make one word out of it and add a .com. ;-) ] |
|
- Posted by browneyedsusan z7b AL (My Page) on Mon, Mar 22, 10 at 14:59
| Here are my guesses: 1. some kind of holly 2. gardenia which probably suffered frost damage or has mold. 3-4 ? 5.Ligustrum 6,7, Euonymous (Gold Splash or Emerald and Gold)-I had one of these. 8.Azalea 9-11 Loropetalum rubrum 12-14 Probably a miscanthus-from the few beaten down flowers. 15-17 cherry? not Kwanzan which has rose-like double flwrs 18 Not sure if this is Cleyera-leaves too flat 19 Palm var. ? 20. Crape Myrtle 21.Osmanthus fragrans 22. Crabapple? 23. Carolina jessamine 24. Ophipogon 25. Hydrangeas (mophead?)with Holly ferns in front 26. Euonymous 26. Loropetalum rubrum. |
|
|
- Posted by john_trussville z7b AL (My Page) on Mon, Mar 22, 10 at 15:23
| The sago "palms" (really a cycad instead of a palm) are hardy for your area & probably stay mostly green during a more typical Montgomery winter. Now that the chances for another severe cold snap hopefully have passed I'd go ahead & remove the dead fronds. Otherwise I'd advise you to still leave them on to help insulate the trunk. As long as the trunks feel solid they will be fine & should "flush" again by early June, most likely. Not sure what kind of sun exposure you have around them, but I'd definitely add some seasonal color around them to really make them stand out. Impatiens or begonias maybe. It doesn't really matter, but I say that #24 is Liriope. Mondo is much more dense & has narrower leaves. Whichever it is, it should be weed-whacked to the ground....like TODAY. Just be careful not to whack it too close to the ground & damage the new growth emerging. This is not absolutely necessary....but I think it just looks better to get rid of last years growth. |
|
| It looks as if you'd be cutting into the new growth if you trimmed the ornamental grass back any more. If so, don't. I, too, wondered if the shrubs in 25 were hydrangeas, but it looks like there are small white buds on them. Is that the case or are those just spots in the picture? I don't know nuffin' 'bout sagos -- they're not hardy this far north. For next steps, I'd work on these: remove the suckers and the stake from the cherry (?) tree in 15-17 and the suckers and stray top growth in 5; do some research on sooty mole and decide if that's what's making the leaves dark on the shrub in 2; when the loropetalum finishes blooming, cut the long stems way back then decide if you need to prune them all over. They may be too big for the places where they are, so you might want to consider moving or removing them this winter so you won't spend all your time fighting to keep them smaller than nature meant for them to be. They're pretty plants, so you might want to just move them to a better spot and put something smaller close to the house and deck. Look over all the flowering fruit trees and the crepe myrtle(?); remove crossing branches and any others that don't fit with the overall shape you want. Be sure always to cut back to the joint where the branch meets a larger one. That should keep you busy for a while, but if this were my house, I'd have to begin to reshape and soften the bed lines and add lots of flowering plants. That's a matter of individual preference, but I love lots of perennials. ;-) You might want to start a new thread with a picture of the front of the house and any other areas for which you'd like to have input. |
|
| Thanks guys for all the great input! I'm gonna start with the sagos and work up to the cherry and crape myrtles...I'll start new threads for each type of plant/tree in the hopes that other beginners can learn from my before/after pictures! Here we go...! |
|
| I'll take a guess at these... 2. Gardenia |
|
| my 0.02: agree with nelson and rhizo on all except i think #1 could be dwarf yaupon holly as it looks similar to our work building foundation plants. those look to be hydrangeas in #25 maybe a plum in #22. looks more like mondo than lirope in #24. ornamental cherry in #'s 15-17 i was convinced that the hedge in #18 was japanese cleyera until nelson mentioned pittosporum. not sure now. the foliage doesn't look congested enough for pittosporum but not shiny enough for ternstroemia, so...? |
|
| Yes, Jeff (regarding the ternstoemia). Me, too. It's one of the plants that I would like to see another picture of. Any chance of a couple of close-ups of #18 (Japanese Cleyera), ljbrandt? Same with #1. I've wondered about that one being a Helleri. Say....does anyone think that #1 might be Abelia? All of those long little stems.... Ljbrandt, I'm going to suggest that you leave the Crape myrtle alone. It was a very bad specimen to begin with; more like a nursery cull if you ask me. It 'might' have been salvageable as a teensy weensy youngster. However, though it is almost always suggested that crossing and rubbing branches be eliminated, I would hesitate to do so on this tree. What you'd be left with would be very awkward looking, indeed. To say nothing about how stressful the removal of that much mass is to the overall health of the tree. I'd like to see the upper branches of this tree. Have the original owners topped it (whacked it down) at any time? If not, it might not be bad looking, after all! Don't go crazy with your pruners! The worst thing you can do is whack things off before understanding how, when, and why...and IF something should be pruned. For now, go ahead and remove all of the growth coming from the bottom of that Ligustrum (#5). You want to maintain a trunk just like a pretty tree. Remove any stems that have died, too. A pair of sharp hand pruners for this job. Looks like about a 5 minute project. Same goes for that ornamental whatever-it-is. The pretty pink flowered tree you mistook for a dogwood on your photo album. ALL of those long stems coming from the base of the plant need to be removed. The wrap holding the stake to the main trunk MUST be removed. Poor little thing. That long line of Euonymus needs to be sheared. I hate what gas powered or electric shears do to plants, and would get a good pair of long handled shears to keep on hand. Good job on the grass! Keep us up to date on your progress! Before and after pictures are fun.
|
|
| rhizo_1: When you say to leave the crepe myrtle alone, do you mean to leave all the straggly small branches sticking out at right angles from the trunks? It certainly wouldn't make sense to cut back any of the trunks or large branches, but it seems to me that a bit of clean-up pruning is in order. I'd be interested in seeing a picture when it blooms and of the whole tree structure. |
|
| You guys are the best...I'll be doing some major cleanup this weekend and show you guys before and after pictures! Stay tuned...just need to get some hand sheers and loppers from harbor freight :-) |
|
| 2. Gardenia 3 4 Oak tree 5 holly at bottom 8 azalea 15 17 azalea |
|
| catbird: I was just being reeeeealy conservative in regards to the pruning. Knowing that our poster is a self-proclaimed newby, I'd hate to see something lopped off when it shouldn't be. We can't see a great deal of that Crape myrtle from the images we've been given. It appears that some 'cleaning up' might be in order, but my comments were on behalf of ljbrandt. I've seen countless woody ornamentals ruined in one fell swoop, haven't you? ljbrandt, you know that you can email those of us who have included our email in our (MY PAGE) link, don't you? I'm sure some of would like to help. |
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Alabama Gardening Forum
Instructions
- You must be a registered member and logged in to post messages on our forums.
- Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review the contents and make changes.
- After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
- It is illegal to post copyrighted material without the owner's consent.
- HTML codes are allowed in the message field only.
- No advertising is allowed in any of the forums.
- If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
- If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


































