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Problems with hydrangea continue

jbranch
15 years ago

My two dwarf hydrangeas have anthracnose. I am treating it with a fungicide called Daconil. Will this kill my hydrangeas? They look bad and I hope they will be OK next year.

Comments (9)

  • razorback33
    15 years ago

    Several types of Daconil are recommended for treatment of Anthracnose on Hydrangeas. I use Daconil 2787 for treatment of most fungal diseases, because it is the most readily available type.
    Rb

    Here is a link that might be useful: Hydrangea Diseases & Treatment

  • jbranch
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Where did you purchase the Daconil 2787. The Daconil I purchased was from Home Depot. Not sure this is the same as what you recommend. Will Anthracnose kill my hydrangea?

  • razorback33
    15 years ago

    jbranch....
    I purchase Daconil 2787 from HD, but it isn't always available.
    Any of the Daconil products that contain chlorothalonil should work. Apply every 2-3 weeks, more frequently during rainy periods, according to label directions.
    Halt 50, which contains thiophanate - methyl, will also work as well.
    I would remove any affected blooms and leaves and clean all debris (and mulch) from underneath the plants. The disease is usually spread by water spleashing onto the foliage and blooms. Treat any nearby Hydrangeas or woody plants that may also host the fungus.
    If the disease is in early stages, you should be able to save the Hydrangeas, by preventing it spreading. Anthracnose is extremely rare on Hydrangeas in the landscape, more often is found in greenhouse stock. There is the possibility that the spores were present on the plants when you purchased them.
    Good luck!
    Rb

  • jbranch
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Thanks for the reply. I take it that the anthracnose won't kill my hydrangea. I bought it from www.hydrangea.com, so you are right that it could be from greenhouse. I had read about removing debris, but I will prune the affected leaves as well. Virtually every leaf has some spots on it, so literally the whole hydrangea could be void of leaves - it is that bad.

  • razorback33
    15 years ago

    Why not give the fungicide a chance to work, before removing all of the foliage?
    If these are the only 2 Hydrangeas affected and they came from the same vendor, then chances are about 100% that the infection was present when you received them.
    I would contact the vendor and complain very vigorously about the quality of their plants. If yours were infected, then there are others in their stock also infected.
    I can't believe that any reputable nursery would ship any stock when there was even a hint of disease present. The GA Dept. of Agriculture must have inspected earlier in the season, because they look at woody plants very closely.
    I haven't purchased anything from that company in almost 15 years and don't intend to again, ever!
    I have used HydrangeasPlus for several years and have been satisfied with their quality. If their plants aren't in good condition, they will not ship them and tell you why.
    Lately, I have been able to find most of the newer cultivars at local nurseries, cheaper in price and avoid the ever increasing cost of shipping.
    I also propagate those Hydrangeas that I like, for myself and friends.
    MHO
    Rb

  • jbranch
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    Just to clarify, I am interested in if the anthracnose will kill the hydrangea, not the Daconil.

    Thanks,
    Jeff

  • razorback33
    15 years ago

    The Anthracnose fungus, Colletotrichum gloeosporioides, if left untreated, will probably eventually kill the plants, due to repeated infestation/defoliation.

    There is another chemical treatment that is recommended for Hydrangeas, that I have previously used on vines. It is a mixture of hydrated lime and copper sulphate, commonly sold as Bordeaux Mixture and Kocide101. A wettable powder mixed with water, that can be sprayed on the plant and used as a soil drench.
    Some reports state that it is more effective than Daconil in controlling this particular species of fungus.
    Cool, dry weather is also effective in stopping the spread of the disease, but we probably can count on dry, only!
    Rb

  • jbranch
    Original Author
    15 years ago

    I called Hydrangea.com the other day and talked to them about my problem. They were eager to send me replacement plants and were very accomodating. I told them I would contact them next year after I see what the shape these hydrangeas are in next spring.

  • tsmith2579
    15 years ago

    Saturday, Sept. 13, 10-11:30 a.m. Picnic lunch to follow.

    Aldridge Botanical gardens - From I-65 (north or south) take Exit 250 to I-459 South. The signs say Tuscaloosa/Bessemer.
    From the interchange go about 1 mile to Exit 13, US-31 South. Get into the far left hand turn lane at the exit ramp. There is a stop light at the bottom of the off ramp.

    Turn left at the light and go under I-459 for 6/10ths mile. Stay in the same lane. Go through FOUR traffic lights. When you have gone through the fourth light, start looking for the left turn lane at the FIFTH traffic light.

    This is the US-31 and "Lorna Rd - Hwy 150" intersection. Hanging in the middle of the intersection is a green sign saying . Turn left on to Lorna Road.

    There are 4 cross streets on Lorna Road with a traffic light: (1) Lodge Drive (2) Data Drive (3) Centennial Drive. You will then make a big left hand curve and start down hill to the fourth cross street (4) Rocky Ridge Ranch Road. It is 9/10ths mile from Hwy 31 to Rocky Ridge Ranch Road. As soon as you have crossed Rocky Ridge Ranch Road, turn right into Aldridge Botanical Gardens. There are three aisles of parking. Drive to the garden gate and turn left, go over to the third aisle, turn let and drive back toward Lorna Rd. to the parking section which is parallel to and nearest to Lorna Road.

    On Thursday I will make a map of the parking lot. If you need additional instruction or a copy of the parking map, let me know and I will email a copy.

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