Shop Products
Houzz Logo Print
markmein

No Onion Bulbs: A Theory

markmein
12 years ago

I'm in the Pacific Northwest - Portland, Oregon, so this tale relates to day long onions.

For the past couple years I've been alternating one garden bed between garlic in the fall/winter/spring and bulbing onions in the spring/summer. I start the onions from seed in April so they're ready to transplant when the garlic is harvested.

This year we had a cooler-than-usual spring, so that the garlic was not ready to harvest until mid-July, rather than mid- to late-June. By the time I tranplanted them, my onion seedlings were starting to bulb a bit in their container. (I had the seedlings outside during May and June.) I thought I was good to go.

The onions have grown well. The tops are healthy and lush, but they're not bulbing at all. I was stymied for awhile. I thought one posibility might be variety. I had good success with Copra variety onions in the past, but tried Nobility this year because the seeds were available when I wanted them. At first I wondered if variety was the issue, but now I have a different theory.

Putting the seedlings in the ground 3 weeks after the solstice meant that days have been shortening all the time since transplanting. Coupled with being shocked for a week or two after transplanting, the growth really didn't get going again until later July. We still had 14 hour days, but the quickly-shortening days when the plants got growing again doomed them to bulblessness.

What do you all think? Thanks.

Comments (6)

  • macky77
    12 years ago

    Yup, you've got it. Variety had no bearing. July is far, far too late.

    I started my seeds indoors in January and planted out in early to mid May up here in zone 2. They bulbed up nicely.

  • wolverine1012
    12 years ago

    Macky,

    Any tips on starting onions from seed? My seed sprouted real well, got about 3 inches tall and then all died. All of the rest of our seed started plants (tomatoes, broccoli, peppers) that we have done for years did fine.

    I want to try again next year, but don't want to repeat my mistakes (whatever they were).

  • macky77
    12 years ago

    There are much more expert onion growers than I on the board. This is only the second year I've successfully grown from seed and the first year I've gotten them to size up like they're supposed to. Last winter, I sat down and read everything I could on growing onions because at the time, I just wasn't getting it. I hadn't grown anything (edible) before which was sensitive to daylight hours.

    Onion seed needs to be as fresh as possible. This was the second year that I planted from the same seed packet. I'm planning to buy fresh every two years, no longer.

    I gave my seedlings more space than others might because I was so determined for them to work this year, lol. I used regular black cell packs (whatever size it is that fits 72 per plastic flat). One seedling per cell. As they grew, I kept trimming them down to about 4 or 5 inches, as tall as they could be without falling over.

    Fertilized with a balanced, soluble synthetic, half-strength every other watering (from the bottom). They didn't get any special attention other than the trimmings. The were under the same florescents as everything else. They went out in the cold frames as soon as possible and out of the cold frames as soon as possible (a while before the garden was worked even). They were the first transplants to get planted out.

    The goal, as I understand, is to get as much growth as possible before the solstace. The bigger the tops, the bigger your onion bulb will be after all the energy goes down into it. Each leaf feeds one layer of the onion. Fewer leaves equals fewer layers and a smaller onion bulb. Plenty of big juicy leaves equal a big juicy onion.

  • wolverine1012
    12 years ago

    Thanks for the excellent response. I seem to have pretty much followed your regiment. It appears to have been a fluke. That's one thing about gardening--there's always next year.

  • planatus
    12 years ago

    O'course, you could push your dates back even more and grown your own sets. That's essentially what you're doing. I'd let a few plants go and see if they divide and then bulb next year.

    So you never had onion root maggot problems by planting onions after garlic? They'd fine me sure as shootin. I switch to either beans or winter squash after garlic for that reason.

  • macky77
    12 years ago

    Definitely always next year. :) I lost all of my tomato seedlings this year to some sort of wilt before they even got outside. I've been growing tomatoes for years and have never had that happen before (nor with the subsequent, late batch I started after those were disposed of). Best of luck next year!

Sponsored